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THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 


PRESENTED  BY 

PROF. CHARLES  A.  KOFOID  AND 

MRS.  PRUDENCE  W.  KOFOID 


KATHAY: 


CRUISE  IN  THE   CHINA   SEAS. 


i 

v 


BY 


W.   HASTINGS  MACAULAY. 


"  Coelum,  non  animum,  mutant, 
Qui  trans  mare  currunt." 


NEW-YORK: 
G.  P.  PUTNAM    &    CO.,   10    PARK    PLACE 

M.DOCO.LII. 


UMV 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1852,  by 

G.  P.  PUTNAM  &  COMPANY, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Southern  District  of  New-York. 


JOHN  F.  TROW,  PRINTER, 

49  Ann-Street. 


$ttfX8tl** 


TO 

MRS.  JANE  G.  SPROSTON,  BALTIMORE. 

ESTEEMED    AND    RESPECTED    MADAM: 

I  have  presumed  to  address  this  work  to  you,  more  to  prove  the 
truth  of  its  motto,  than  from  any  hope  that  it  may  be  intrinsically 
worthy  of  your  acceptance. 

Connected  with  a  noble  profession  by  ties  at  once  sad  and  dear, 
I  have  considered  that  a  narration  of  events  seen  in  its  service — 
however  unworthily  set  down,  might  not  be  uninteresting  to  you; 
and  feeling  assured  that  your  prayers  and  kind  wishes  have  follow- 
ed us  through  "changing  skies,"  as  we  have  sped  across  "distant 
seas," — upon  our  safe  return,  I  am  truly  happy  in  being  able  to 
imitate  the  custom  of  mariners  of  more  sunny  climes,  and  to  place 
this  offering  of  affection  upon  the  altar  of  Gratitude. 

THE  AUTHOR. 


MI6 


CONTENTS. 


PAG* 

CHAPTER  I. 

Set  Sail— Sea-sickness— Get  a  good  offing— Sail  ho !— Islets  of  St.  Paul- 
Shipwreck  there— Sufferings— Crossing  the  Line— Fernando  Noronha— 
Fire— Remarkable  peak— Arrival  at  Rio— Disappointment— Beauties  of 
the  harbor— Ashore  at  last— Village  of  San  Domingo— Flying  trip  to  city 
— Yellow  fever— All  hands  up  anchor— Sugarloaf  Mountain— Off  for  the 
Cape      ........         9 

CHAPTER  II. 

Telling  Tales  out  of  School— Double  the  Cape— The  Flying  Dutchman- 
Albatross  and  Cape  pigeons— Catching  the  albatross— The  man  who  ate 
the  albatross— Superstition  of  sailors — Man  overboard— Lying  to — Acci- 
dent— Death — The  sailor's  grave       .  .  .  .  .20 

CHAPTER  III. 

Island  of  St.  Paul— Steering  for  Java  Head— Land  ho  !— Christmas  Island — 
Straits  of  Sunda— A  Beautiful  Scene— Sentimental  Simile— Come  to  an- 
chor—Anger Point — Village  of  Anger — On  shore  in  Java— Perfume  of 
the  East— Banyan  tree— The  governor  and  Dutch  hotel  keeper— Welcome 
at  an  inn— Attack  on  Anger  Fort— Dutch  officers'  prowess,  and  French  ! — 
The  Javanese— Chinaman — Mosque— Mahomet— Bazaar—  Watering  place        26 

CHAPTER  IV. 

China  Sea— Anchor  off  Macko— Canton  River— Whampoa— Trip  to  Canton 
— The  San-pan— Pagodas— Lob  Creek— Salt  junks— Description  of  a  Junk 
— Mandarin,  or  search  boats — Pirates— Crowded  state  of  River  at  Can- 
ton— Land  at  Factory  Stairs — Visit  Vice-Consul — New  China  Street — A 
Cow-House — Wonders  of  Canton — Factory  gardens— Water  parties- 
Buddhist  temples,  and  holy  pigs — Dock-yard  at  Whampoa— American 
missionary  at  Newtown— Bethel,  and  its  pastor— Fourth  of  July— Back 
to  Macao— The  Typa— The  Barrier  .  .  .  .33 

CHAPTER   V. 

Passage  ashore — A-ti — The  Praya — Forts— Governor's  Road— Description 
of  Macao — Murder  of  Amaral — Manoeuvring  of  Seu  and  his  triumph — 
A  new  Governor— His  death— Council  of  Government — View  from  Guia 
Fort— Marques's  garden — Camoen's  grotto— Epitaph  and  doggerel  writ- 
ten there— A  beautiful  spot— Stealing  fire  from  the  gods— Fate  of  Prome- 
theus      .......  44 

CHAPTER  VI 

Up  the  Canton  River  again— Bay  of  Canton— Bocca  Tigris— Forts  at  the 
Bogue— Their  construction— Conduct  of  Chinese  when  attacked— The 


M311948 


(>  C  0  N  I  B  M  T  S  . 


PAGE 


Feast  of  Lanterns— The  Rebellion— Paddy  fields  and  mosquitoes— Back 

to  Typa— Pleasant  times— Blowing  up  of  a  frigate !     .  .  .54 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Visit  Hong-Kong— A  beautiful  morning— Harbor  of  Hong-Kong— Settle- 
ment of  Victoria— Line-of-battle  ship  Hastings— Forecastle  logic— An 
arrival  from  the  Northern  Seas — Her  B.  M.  S.  Herald— Salutes— Descrip- 
tion of  Victoria— Club  House— Health  of  Hong-Kong — Death  vacancies 
—Feasting  and  fetes— Ball— Pic-Nic— Departure  from  Hong-Kong  .       63 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

China— Limited  opportunities— The  Chinese  nation  compared  with  others 
— Its  antiquity— Magnitude  of  territory  and  practicability  of  laws— Sup- 
posed origin  of  the  Chinese— Fables  of  their  early  writers— Explanation 
of  their  exaggerations— Foundation  of  the  Empire— Chinese  traditions 
compared  with  sacred  history— Similarity  of  events— Wise  men  of  the 
East— Introduction  of  Buddhism— Arts  and  sciences— The  magnetic  Nee- 
dle—Discovery of  Gunpowder— Origin  of  the  name— China— Che- 
Hwang-te,  King  of  Tsin— Parallel  between  him  and  Napoleon— Religion 
— Confucius— The  Taouists-  Buddhism— A  Buddhist's  idea  of  Heaven  .        70 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Christmas  and  the  New  Year  in  Macao— Removal  of  remains  of  Da  Cunha 
—The  dead  give  place  to  the  quick— Chinese  manner  of  fishing— A 
new  principle  in  hydraulics — Inspection  of  Macao  Militia — An  ancient 
cemetery — Arrival  of  the  new  Governor,  Cardoza — Underway  for  Ma- 
nilla—Fetch up  at  Hong-Kong— Another  start— Island  of  Luconia— Bay 
of  Manilla— Earthquake— Discovery  and  settlement  of  the  Philippines- 
Description  of  Manilla— The  Calzada— A  puppet-show  .  .        81 

CHAPTER  X. 

Drive  to  the  Balsa— Meaning  of  the  word— A  mob  of  women— Nora  Cree- 
na— Magic,  slipper— Description  of  the  drive— Ferryman  of  the  females 
—Decline  the  office— The  suburbs— A  la  Balsa— Manilla,  intra  murales 
—The  Mole  by  Moonlight— Friend  in  a  fit— Circo  Olympico— Scenes  in 
the  Circle  .......        90 

CHAPTER  XI. 

An  early  drive— Visit  to  Churches— The  Cathedral— Description— Reflec- 
tions—Church  of  the  Binondo  Quarter— The  dead  child— Baptism— Life's 
entrances  and  exit— Ceremony  of  taking  the  veil — Poor  Maraquita— An 
episode— Don  Caesar  de  Bazan— Interior  of  the  convent— Interview  with 
the  Lady  Superior — Interchange  of  compliments — Spanish  courtesy — An 
admission  .  .  .  .  .  .  .99 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Fabrico  del  Tobago— Manufacture  of  the  cheroot— Description  of  the  pro- 
cess—Female operatives — Gigantic  effects— Midshipman  attacked— A  de- 
lightful Evening— Boat  ahoy— Disappointed  in  trip  to  Lagunade  Bay — 
Funcion  Familia — Madame  Theodore — The  Calcada  again— Margarita 
— Teatro  Binondo— Teatro  Tagalo  de  Tondo— Espana — Anecdote  of  an 
Englishman— Farewell  to  Manilla— Out  to  Sea  .  .  .105 


Contents. 


PAGK 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Anchor  in  harbor  of  Hong-Kong— Hastings  and  Herald  both  off—  Advan- 
tage of  newspapers — A  first-rate  notice— The  Press  of  Victoria — The 
Friend  of  China— Its  pugnacity — Advertising  sheets — Description  of  Island 
— Rain— Character  of  Chinese  inhabitants     ....      114 

CHAPTER   XIV. 

Hong-Kong— Object  of  its  settlement— Its  service  as  an  opium  depot — 
Views  of  the  opium  trade — Its  history — Considered  the  cause  and  object 
of  the  war— Treaty  of  Nankin— Opium  trade  fixed  on  China    .  .      121 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Trip  to  Mac^o— Disappointed  in  getting  ashore— Mail  arrived— Get  no  let- 
ters—Expression of  sentiments — Causes  and  effects — Overland  mail — 
Idea  of  a  route— Happy  Valley — Chase  of  Pirates — A  Poisson  d' Axril — 
Into  the  Typa  again — Arrival  of  consort — Late  dates — Catholic  fete — 
Depart  for  Shanghae— The  Yang-tse-Kiang— Improvement  in  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  country — Better  race  of  men — Banks  of  the  Woo-sung         127 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Shanghae — Immense  number  of  junks— Foreign  residences— Novelty  of 
Chimneys — Revolting  appearance  of  beggars — Undertakers— Price  of 
coffins — Decline  trading — Description  of  city— Stagnant  pools — Tea  gar- 
dens— Sweet  site — The  Taoutae — Advantages  of  Shanghae — Departure — 
Ship  ashore ! — Sensation    .  .  .  .  .  .135 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Amoy — Its  trade — Cause  of  decay — Infanticide— Manner  of  destroying  fe- 
male infants — China  woman's  confession — Environs— British  and  Ameri- 
can cemeteries — The  fatal  rock — Koo-lungSeu — Chinese  gunnery— Chi- 
nese Customs — Marriage — Death — Manner  of  mourning— Pagoda  of  Nan- 
tae-Woo-Shan      .......      142 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Formosa — Description  of  the  island — Its  productions — Coal  mines — Metals — 
The  Dutch  possessions— Their  expulsion— Proper  policy  of  civilized 
powers  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .148 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Leave  Amoy— Arrive  in  Macko  Roads— Live  ashore— Well  guarded— Night 
calls — Ventriloquist  at  Typa  Fort — Ordered  on  board— Up  to  Whampoa 
— Clipper  Ships— Over  to  Hong-Kong— Coronation  day — Independence 
day — Hurried  on  board— The  mail— Ty-foongs  .  .  154 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Ty-foong  passed — Pleasant  season — Theatrical  exhibition — The  Mackense — 
Philharmonic  Society — Italian  Opera — Awaiting  orders  for  home — 
Thoughts  of  home  and  friends— Idea  suggested  by  the  setting  sun — 
Poetry— Maladie  de  Pays — Its  effects  upon  the  Swiss — A  remedy — My 
own  experience,  and  manner  of  Cure  ....      J61 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

Haul  up  all  standing— Boat  races— Interest  in  the  sport— Excitement  ge- 
neral—Arrangements— Jockey  ism  —Regatta— Preparations— The  start— 


8  Contents. 


PACK 

The  race— The  result—Launch  and  first  cutter— Race  described   con- 
amore— Suggestion  of  an  old  salt— Satan  and  sailors     .  .  .      166 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

Effects  of  the  race— Suppers  and  their  effects — The  stuff  that  dreams  are 

made  of— A  scrape  in  the  Typa— Again  at  Whampoa  .  .      172 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 
Anson's  Bay — Hong-Kong  again— P.  &  O.  Company's  hulk  takes  fire— Es- 
cape of  captain's  wife — Toong-Koo  Bay — Piracy — Fire  at  Macao — Wolf 
again  at  Whampoa— Amateur  theatricals  at  Canton — Melancholy  musings      177 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Commodore  arrives  at  last — Preparations  for  a  start — Delay — Washing- 
ton's Birthday — The  clipper  Challenge — Prisoners  from  her— Homeward 
bound! — Reflections  on  leaving— Case  of  small-pox — Second  visit  to  An- 
ger .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .184 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

No  mosquitoes  at  Anger— The  land  of  the  East— A  sketch— Advantages  of 
Anger — Dolce-far-niente— Island  of  Java— Batavia— Bantam— Compari- 
son between  Anger  and  Singapore  .  .  .  .  .189 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Pass  through  Sunda  Strait— H.  B.  M.  S.  Rattler— Catch  the  trades — A 
learned  opinion  on  diaries — Extracts  from  diary — Isle  of  France — Its  ro- 
mance—Bourbon— Mauritius — Cape  of  Good  Hope — Description — Trou- 
ble in  getting  in — Table  Bay  and  Mountain    ....      194 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Land  at  Cape  Town— Hotels  and  widows— Drive  to  Constantia— Descrip- 
tion of  drive — Price  of  wine — Manumission  of  slaves — Seasons  at  the 
Cape — The  town  through  a  microscope,  &c.  &c.        .  .  .      200 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

Settlement  of  Cape  Town — Its  productions— The  Kaffir  war— Latest  dis- 
patches— Cause  of  the  rebellion — Description  of  the  Kaffir  by  the  travel- 
ler— Opinion  of  him  by  the  resident — Authority  of  prominent  men — Ob- 
servatory, &c.  M  • .  .  .  .  .  .  .      208 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 

A  death  on  board— Our  freight— Extracts  from  diary— St.  Helena  and  Na- 
poleon— The  trades — Poetical  idea  of  a  starry  telegraph— Good  sailing  .      217 

CHAPTER  XXX. 

Classic  ground — Hispaniola— Romance  of  the  western  waters — Extracts 
from  diary — On  a  wind— Newsboats  wanted — The  Bermudas — Target 
practice  .......      222 

CHAPTER  XXXI. 

The  Gulf  Stream— Darby's  theory— Its  ingenuity— The  coasts  of  America- 
John  Cabot,  the  Venetian—"  Terra primum  visa  " — Completion  of  cruise 
— Conclusion       .......      226 


K ATH AT 


-•■♦  •- 


CHAPTEK  T. 

Set  Sail— Sea-sickness— Get  a  good  Offing— Sail  ho  !— Islets  of  St.  Paul— Ship- 
wreck there— Sufferings— Crossing  the  Line— Fernando  Noronha — Fire— Re- 
maxkable  peak— Arrival  at  Rio— Disappointment — Beauties  of  the  harbor — 
Ashore  at  last — Village  of  San  Domingo— Flying  trip  to  city— Yellow  fever — 
All  hands  up  anchor  — Sugarloaf  Mountain— Off  for  the  Cape. 

IMMEDIATELY  after  noon,  upon  the  29th  day  of  Jan- 
uary, 1850,  we  east  off  from  the  wharf  at  the  Navy  Yard 
in  Charlestown,  Massachusetts,  and  with  the  pilot  on  board, 
proceeded  to  sea.  But  little  time  was  allowed  to  send  our 
adieus,  for  he  soon  left  us,  bearing  with  him  some  hasty 
scrawls,  to  the  illegibility  of  one  of  which  a  very  good 
friend  of  the  writer  can  testify.  Our  commander  was  very 
anxious  to  commence  his  cruise,  and  having  been  delayed 
nearly  one  month  for  officers,  put  off  upon  it  as  soon  as  the 
last  gentleman  had  reported. 

That  bugbear  to  all  landsmen, — sea-sickness, — gave  me 
but  little  annoyance,  although  some  of  the  crew  appeared  to 
suffer  greatly  from  its  effects. 

2 


10  Kathay: 

Having  a  favorable  wind  we  soon  made  a  good  offing, 
a  very  desirable  thing  at  that  season  of  the  year,  and  indeed 
one  which  no  sailor  objects  to  on  any  coast,  when  out- 
ward bound ;  a  fresh,  favoring  breeze  and  plenty  of  sea  room 
being  his  most  fervent  prayer. 

Our  first  destination  was  Rio,  and  towards  it  we  bent 
our  course.  A  few  days  out,  and  the  novelty  of  our  situa- 
tion having  worn  off,  pleasing  remembrances  of  persons, 
localities,  and  particular  events  which  had  occurred  during 
our  sojourn  in  Boston,  became  less  frequent,  and  pretty 
allusions  to  "  again  standing  upon  the  deck,"  poetical  peti- 
tions to  the  dark  blue  Ocean,  praying  it,  in  the  language 
of  Byron,  to  "  roll  on,"  gradually  gave  way  to  growlings, 
when  old  Neptune,  as  if  in  answer,  drove  his  chariot  over 
its  surface,  and  working  its  waters  into  a  yeasty  foam,  dis- 
turbed, at  the  same  time,  both  our  equilibrium  and  equa- 
nimity. 

But  little  occurred  to  destroy  the  usual  monotony  of  a 
sea  voyage.  At  long  intervals  "  sail  ho  /"  would  be  called 
out  by  the  lookout  on  the  foretopsail  yard,  and  after  a  time 
our  eyes  would  be  greeted  from  the  deck  with  the  sight  of 
another  white-winged  wanderer  like  ourself,  steering  for  his 
distant  port.  Then  would  come  conjecture  as  to  whither  he 
might  be  bound,  and  sailor-like  reflections  upon  his  rig, 
qualities  of  sailing,  and  the  judgment  of  the  skipper  in  the 
selection  of  his  course. 

Our  reckoning,  and  the  change  of  temperature  both  of 
air  and  water,  soon  announced  that  we  were  approaching 
that   equatorial   divider  of  our   globe,   called  "  the  Line]1 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.         11 

and  in  about  one  degree  of  latitude  above  it  (1°  16/  N.)  we 
made  the  islets  of  Saint  Paul,  a  barren  pile  of  rocks  of  about 
one  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  and  of  inconsiderable  breadth, 
standing  solitarily  and  desolately  here  in  mid  ocean.  Made 
their  longitude  by  the  mean  of  three  chronometers  ;  obser- 
vation 29°  19/  57;/  west;  about  one  degree  different  from 
the  longitude  in  which  they  were  laid  down  in  our  chart ; 
an  error  which  should  be  corrected. 

It  was  here  that  a  few  years  ago  a  Dutch  East  Indiaman 
was  wrecked,  and  of  nearly  two  hundred  souls  but  three  or 
four  were  saved,  and  these  were  taken  off  after  remaining 
upon  the  rocks  some  twelve  days,  without  nourishment  and 
exposed  to  all  the  horrors  of  starvation.  Worse  yet  than 
that,  deprived  of  shelter  from  a  vertical  sun,  without  water 
to  restore  the  fluids  which  his  fierce  rays  extracted  from 
their  parching  bodies.  An  immense  number  of  birds  were 
flying  over  and  around  these  jagged  peaks,  and  who  knows 
how  greatly  these  may  have  added  to  the  torture  of  the 
shipwrecked  crew,  when  failing  nature  denied  the  power  to 
protect  themselves. 

*.'  Ah  who  can  tell 
The  looks  men  cast  on  famished  men  ; 
The  thoughts  that  came  up  there." 

In  the  morning  watch  of  the  twenty-sixth  of  February, 
we  "crossed  the  line"  in  longitude  29°  56/  50//  west,  with 
such  light  breezes,  that  at  meridian  we  had  logged  but 
307  south.  We  escaped  the  usual  visit  of  old  Neptune  upon 
entering  the  threshold  of  his  dominions, — and  as  it  was 


12  K  at  hay: 

early  morning,  suppose  the  "  Old  Salt"  was  calmly  reposing 
in  the  arms  of  Amphitrite.  Seriously,  I  consider  this  cus- 
tom of  performing  practical  jokes  in  the  character  of  Nep- 
tune, as  "  one  more  honored  in  the  breach  than  the  observ- 
ance," and  that  no  officer  should  endanger  the  discipline  of 
his  ship  by  allowing  such  unmannerly  pranks  as  we  read  of 
having  been  performed,  and  where  the  initiated  have  paid 
the  penalty  with  broken  bones,  sometimes  with  life. 

At  5.  45.  a.  m.  of  the  same  day,  the  island  of  Fernando 
Noronha  was  made  from  the  mast  head,  and  as  it  gradually 
loomed  to  the  vision,  from  the  deck,  its  remarkable  peak 
began  to  assume  various  shapes,  mostly  resolving  them- 
selves into  the  semblance  of  a  high  tower.  It  is  on  the 
north  side  of  the  island,  and  is  called  "  the  Pyramid ;"  is 
said  to  elevate  its  rocky  proportions  from  the  midst  of  a  beau- 
tiful grove  to  the  height  of  about  one  thousand  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  Near  its  summit  there  is  a  station, 
from  which  a  lookout  can  have  supervision  over  the  entire 
island,  and  the  sea  for  many  leagues  on  every  point  sur- 
rounding it. 

The  island  of  Fernando  Noronha  we  found  in  latitude 
3°  51/  04"  south,  and  longitude  32°  27'  15"  west.  It 
was  at  one  time  much  resorted  to  by  whalers  for  provisions 
and  water,  although  the  scarcity  of  the  latter  at  certain  sea- 
sons, does  not  render  it  at  all  times  desirable  for  this  pur- 
pose. It  is  about  seven  miles  long,  and  from  two  to  three 
in  breadth. 

Noronha  was  at  one  time  used  by  the  Brazilian  govern- 
ment as  a  place  of  transportation  for  criminals,  principally 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.         13 

those  exiled  for  treason,  and  offenders  against  the  state,  and 
is  said  to  contain  some  beautiful  scenery ;  also  to  produce 
magnificent  fruit.  But  we  were  not  to  linger  there,  and 
soon  its  peak,  becoming  more  and  more  indistinct,  sinking 
slowly,  lost  its  proportions  beneath  the  horizon. 

The  first  day  of  what  would  have  been  called  spring  in 
our  own  beautiful  land,  was  ushered  in  by  an  alarm  of  fire. 
The  officers  and  the  different  messes  were  nearly  all  at 
breakfast  when  the  signal  for  such  an  accident  was  given, 
and  were  not  slow  in  obeying  its  summons ;  in  less  than  a 
minute  every  one  was  at  his  station,  when  the  smoke  was 
discovered  issuing  from  the  galley  funnel  forward,  into  which 
a  lazy  cook,  whose  duty  it  was  to  have  it  properly  cleaned 
every  morning,  had  inserted  some  straw  for  the  purpose  of 
performing  his  duty  more  expeditiously  and  effectually ;  and 
indeed  he  had  nearly  succeeded  in  getting  rid  of  it  alto- 
gether, had  it  not  been  for  the  promptness  of  a  forecas- 
tle man,  who  seizing  a  bucket  of  water,  opportunely  stand- 
ing near  him  on  the  topgallant  forecastle,  dashed  it  down 
the  funnel,  preventing  the  flames  from  communicating  with 
the  foresail,  and  thus  probably  saved  the  ship. 

Of  all  the  numerous  accidents  to  which  a  man-of-war  is 
so  peculiarly  liable,  that  of  destruction  by  fire  is  most  likely 
to  occur,  and  requires  the  strictest  discipline  to  guard 
against ;  for  this  are  established  certain  hours  for  smoking, 
and  a  stated  period  at  night  for  the  extinguishing  of  all 
lights ;  so  that  after  ten  o'clock  the  peopled  ship  speeds  on 
her  way,  over  the  dark  bosom  of  the  heaving  billows,  with 
only  the  light  in  the  binnacle  to  show  her  course  upon  the 


14  Kathay: 

illuminated  card,  and  the  well-secured  lamp  in  the  cabin,  by 
which  her  commander,  anxious  and  unsleeping,  traces  her 
track  along  the  corrected  chart. 

Upon  the  tenth  day  of  March,  Sunday,  at  seven  bells  in 
the  last  dog  watch,  we  came  to  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Rio 
de  Janeiro,  off  the  town  known  generally  by  the  name  of 
the  river,  but  originally  called  San  Sebastian.  After  forty 
days  at  sea,  the  exact  time  made  by  the  first  voyageur, 
Noah,  we  were  as  anxious  as  he  might  be  supposed  to  have 
been,  to  escape  from  his  menagerie ;  for  take  it  as  you  will, 
you  will  find  Emerson's  "  Experience"  to  agree  with  yours 
in  this  respect,  however  you  may  differ  from  him  in  others, 
when  he  states  in  his  essay  with  that  title  (which  essay,  par 
parenthesis,  I  was  compelled  to  swallow  in  hospital  for 
want  of  better  mental  aliment),  that,  "  Every  ship  is  a  ro- 
mantic object,  except  the  one  you  sail  in, — embark,  and  the 
romance  quits  your  vessel,  and  hangs  on  every  other  sail  in 
the  horizon." 

After,  as  I  have  said,  this  period  of  probation,  in  a  ves- 
sel crowded  almost  to  the  extent  of  Noah's,  and  whose  crew 
bore  some  resemblance  to  his,  if  one  might  judge  from  the 
gi'oivls  on  board — the  prospect  of  a  trip  to  the  shore,  fresh 
provender  and  iced  drinks  was  delicious,  especially  as  the 
Hotel  of  Pharoux  had  been  so  repeatedly  extolled  during 
the  passage  as  a  horn  of  plenty,  abounding  in  delicacies,  and 
our  mouths  had  been  so  often  made  to  water  upon  many 
a  "  banyan  day,"  by  the  luscious  descriptions  of  those  who 
had  on  former  occasions  the  happiness  to  have  indulged 
therein.     But  alas !  for  human  hopes  and  expectations ; 


A    Cruise    in   the    China    Seas.         15 

"  L'homme  propose,  et  Dieu  dispose !" 

For  early  on  the  next  morning,  after  getting  out  the  boats, 
and  making  other  preparations  for  a  visit  to  Rio,  an  order 
came  from  our  commodore  on  that  station,  forbidding  us  to 
land,  or  to  hold  communication  with  the  shore,  on  account 
of  the  prevalence  of  the  yellow  fever,  then  epidemic  there. 
So  here  we  lay,  only  a  few  cables'  length  from  the  Una  da 
Cobras,  with  all  the  tropical  plants  and  fruit  almost  within 
reach,  and  tantalizing  us  with  their  perfume, — the  domes, 
palaces  and  public  buildings  of  a  gay  capital  (unvisited  by 
many),  rising  picturesquely  before  us,  and  yet  forbidden. 
We  thought  of  Tantalus,  and  his  fate,  of  Prometheus  and 
the  rock — of — of  Adam  and  his  expulsion,  and  must  own  that 
in  our  first  feelings  of  disappointment,  we  made  but  a  partial 
excuse  for  our  primal  progenitor,  and  great  great  grand- 
mother, as  we  repeated  those  expressive  lines  of  the  poet,  so 
early  engraved  upon  our  memory — 

"In  Adam's  fall 
We  sinned  all." 

But  trying  as  was  our  situation,  we  were  in  a  measure 
compensated  for  our  disappointment  by  the  beauty  of  this 
unrivalled  harbor ;  and  to  describe  it  fully,  I  must  be  allowed 
to  revert  to  the  period  when  the  coast  of  Brazil  was  first 
made,  with  its  bold  outlines  developing  new  beauties  as  we 
approached.  Indications  of  land  had  been  noticed  early  in 
the  morning  of  the  day  of  our  arrival,  and  shortly  the  nu- 
merous mountain  peaks  for  which  this  coast  is  celebrated, 
filled  the  horizon  before  us  like  a  line  of  dark  clouds.     As 


16  Katiiay: 

the  distance  was  diminished,  peak  after  peak  stood  out  in 
bold  relief  against  the  blue  sky,  and  we  were  soon  enabled 
to  make  out  the  False  Sugarloaf,  Corcovado,  Lord  Hood's 
Nose,  and  The  Tops — so  called  by  sailors,  from  their  resem- 
blance to  those  parts  of  a  ship.  The  light  breeze,  under 
which  we  carried  studding-sails,  and  all  the  canvas  that 
would  draw,  gradually  wafted  us  towards  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  yet  so  gently  did  we  glide  along  that  not  one  fea- 
ture of  the  scene  was  lost ;  but  it  was  not  until  we  had  passed 
the  islands  that  screen  its  front,  that  its  full  magnificence 
was  developed,  and  then,  as  by  the  drawing  aside  of  a  cur- 
tain, the  harbor  of  Kio  de  Janeiro  was  displayed, — a  mag- 
nificent basin  surrounded  by  innumerable  hills,  which  were 
dotted  with  beautiful  villas. 

Under  a  spanking  breeze,  which  suddenly  sprung  up, 
we  dashed  on  nearly  to  the  base  of  Sugarloaf  Moun- 
tain, and  then  stood  over  boldly  to  the  fort  Santa  Cruz,  from 
which  we  were  hailed,  and  as  the  short  twilight  had  given 
way  to  deepar  shadows,  were  signalized  by  blue  lights,  con- 
tinued by  an  opposite  fortification,  until  they  were  noticed 
at  the  station  on  Signal  Hill  behind  the  city.  Onward  we 
sped,  through  a  fleet  of  vessels,  our  craft  threading  her  way, 
"like  a  thing  of  life,"  obeying  the  master's  steady  commands, 
creating  no  little  sensation,  as  she  darted  amongst  them,  in- 
clining to  the  right  or  left,  or  pressing  boldly,  straight  ahead, 
to  the  repeated  ofders  of  "starboard,"  "port,"  or  "steady 
there,  so,"  and  causing  the  different  craft  to  run  up  their 
signal  lights  quite  hastily.  "  Stand  by,"  "  let  go  the  an- 
chor," and  there  she  lay  as  if  taking  rest  after  a  long  journey. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.         17 

On  viewing  the  scene  from  the  deck  by  the  early  light 
of  the  next  morning's  dawn,  I  could  compare  it  with  nothing 
but  the  painting  displayed  in  a  theatre,  and  the  quiet  that 
reigned  in  that  still  hour,  added  greatly  to  the  effect.  The 
background  of  mountains  piercing  the  clouds ;  the  foreground 
being  formed  by  the  town  itself  with  its  houses  of  various 
hues,  and  picturesque  styles  of  architecture,  ascending  the 
mountain's  side,  and  villas,  and  country  seats  aiding  the 
perspective,  whilst  the  island  of  Cobras  served  as  a  side 
scene. 

Around  us  stretched  for  leagues  this  splendid  harbor,  up- 
on whose  broad  bosom  lay  vessels  of  every  nation  (and 
which  appeared  capable  of  bearing  the  fleets  of  the  world), 
fringed  by  hills  whose  verdure  seemed  undying,  over  which 
were  spread  the  beautiful  trees  of  a  tropical  clime. 

An  opportunity  at  last  occurred  of  setting  foot  upon  terra 
firma  once  more,  which  wras  gladly  embraced — permission 
having  been  granted  to  visit  the  shore  opposite  to  Rio,  where 
is  the  village  of  San  Domingo  and  the  Praya  Grande ;  with 
several  officers  we  were  pulled  in  the  second  cutter  to  inter- 
cept one  of  those  graceful  lateen  rigged  boats,  called  "  felloas," 
which  are  seen  in  such  numbers  flitting  in  every  direction 
over  these  beautiful  waters.  As  soon  as  we  were  landed  at 
the  village,  there  ensued  an  amusing  scene  in  paying  for  our 
passage.  The  sum  of  two  "  dumps"  (about  four  cents  in  the 
currency  of  the  United  States),  each,  being  demanded,  we 
placed  our  quotas  as  nearly  as  we  could  make  them,  in  the 
hands  of  one  of  the  party,  who  acted  as  spokesman,  who 
tendered  the  commandante  of  the  felloa  one  of  our  silver 

2* 


18  Kathay: 

coins,  much  greater  in  value  than  the  aggregate  sum  of  our 
passage  money, — which  was  indignantly  refused  by  the  taw- 
ny Brazilian,  who  was  immediately  assailed  by  each  member 
of  the  party  who  had  any  pretensions  to  language  other  than 
his  own ;  from  which  babel  we  were  but  too  happy  to  es- 
cape, learning,  however,  when  we  were  overtaken  by  the  lin- 
guists, that  they  had  fairly  talked  "  the  old  fellow"  down,  and 
compelled  him  to  take  more  money  than  (even  allowing  for 
difference  of  currency)  he  had  demanded. 

To  a  person  who  has  never  visited  tropical  countries,  a 
landing  upon  this  part  of  the  Empire  of  Brazil,  must  be  pro- 
ductive of  much  pleasure.  At  times,  it  is  true,  the  heat  is 
oppressive,  but  then  the  delightful  sea-breeze  setting  in  at 
regular  hours,  amply  compensates  for  the  inconvenience  of  the 
"  terrales,"  the  term  applied  to  the  wind  which  blows  off  the 
land. 

We  wished  much  to  have  enjoyed  the  society  of  the  op- 
posite city,  but  the  fell  destroyer  held  his  revels  there,  and  we 
could  only  manage  a  stolen  visit  to  it  by  night  in  one  of  the 
swift  felloas  from  Praya  Grande,  having  to  make  a  hasty 
flight  on  board  ship  early  the  next  morning — gaining  but 
little  information  by  our  trip,  excepting  the  assurance  that 
those  who  had  promised  so  fairly  for  Mons.  Pharoux  were 
indeed  true  prophets. 

The  call  of  "  all  hands  up  anchor,"  awakened  us  on  the 
morning  of  the  18th  of  March,  and  before  all  hands  were  on 
deck,  we  were  being  towed  out  of  the  harbor  by  one  of  the 
small  steamers,  to  undertake  the  longest  part  of  our  cruise. 
The  view  was  then  as  fine  as  could  be  imagined ;  we  were 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  19 

near  the  outlet,  but  Corcovado,  Sugarloaf,  The  Forts,  and 
town  were  all  in  sight,  and  we  had  but  to  turn  our  eyes 
from  one  magnificent  sight,  to  have  them  greeted  by  an- 
other. I  was  much  struck  by  the  appearance  of  Sugarloaf 
Mountain  as  we  passed ;  it  is  of  great  height,  and  the  reader 
will  readily  understand  the  peculiarity  which  gives  its  name. 
At  the  time  a  cloud  encircled  its  brow,  within  a  short  dis- 
tance of  the  summit,  yet  leaving  its  peak  plainly  visible,  as  if  a 
wreath  had  been  cast  over  it,  and  had  rested  in  that  position. 
But  soon  Rio,  and  its  beauties  had  faded  in  the  distance,  and 
we  were  steering  our  lonely  course  for  the  Cape. 


20  Kathay: 


CHAPTER  II. 

Telling  Tales  out  of  School— Double  the  Cape— The  Flying  Dutchman— Alba- 
tross and  Cape  Pigeons— Catching  the  Albatross— The  Man  who  Ate  the  Alba- 
tross—Superstition of  Sailors— Man  Overboard— Lying  to— Accident— Death— 
The  Sailor's  Grave. 

IT  is  very  difficult  to  find  incidents  on  board  of  a  man-of- 
war  which  you  can  feel  justified  in  setting  before  the  pub- 
lic ;  for  be  it  known,  in  regard  to  the  "  secrets  of  this  prison- 
house,"  that  "  such  unwonted  blazon  may  not  be."  Now, 
on  board  a  merchantman,  a  person  might,  if  afflicted  with 
Cacoethes  Scribendi,  detail  the  peculiarities  of  the  skipper, 
and  any  little  accident  which  may  have  befallen  him ;  such 
as  the  admixture  of  briny  fluid,  which  Father  Neptune  may 
have  chosen  to  infuse  into  his  glass  of  sherry,  by  sending 
an  envoy,  in  the  shape  of  a  wave,  across  the  poop,  who 
dropped  his  credentials  as  he  passed  over  the  unclosed  sky- 
light :  the  numerous  evils  which  befell  the  mate :  the  jokes 
of  Jones  :  the  puns  of  Smith,  or  the  sallies  of  Sandy.  But 
here  we  are  forbidden  to  walk  shodden  over  sacred  ground 
and  details  of  the  cruise  must  be  confined  to  generalities ; 
otherwise  the  travels  of  the  celebrated  Gulliver  would  be 
eclipsed,  Baron  Munchausen  lose  his  claim  to  veracity,  and 
the  shade  of  the  venerable  Miller  slink  back  to  its  original 
punishment. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.         21 

A  strong  northerly  wind  drove  us-  along  the  coast  of 
Brazil  a  little  farther  south  than  was  our  intention  to  have 
steered ;  but  upon  its  changing,  we  mended  our  course,  and 
soon  doubled  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  without  any  incident 
worthy  of  notice, — not  even  seeing  the  Flying  Dutchman ; 
and  if  I  except  the  white-winged  albatross  which  followed 
in  our  wake,  and  the  graceful  Cape  pigeon  that  strove  to 
emulate  our  speed,  I  may  say  that,  to  all  appearance,  we 
were  alone  upon  the  ocean, — the  moving  centre  of  one  vast 
dial  of  water  enlarging  its  circumference  as  we  advanced. 
But  here  I  must  be  allowed  to  notice  the  occurrence  of  one 
of  those  coincidences  which  serve  to  keep  alive  those 
smouldering  fires  of  superstition,  which  Education  and  Ex- 
perience have  done  so  much  to  quench.  It  had  been  the 
practice  to  fish  (?)  for  the  friendly  and  companionable  alba- 
tross with  a  line  towed  astern,  to  which  a  hook  was  at- 
tached, baited  with  a  piece  of  pork.  Now  many  had  been 
the  protests  made  against  these  proceedings  by  some  of  our 
most  stanch  and  fearless  men.  They  prophesied  in  sub- 
stance, if  not  in  words,  that 

"  It  was  not,  nor  could  it  come  to  good." 

Yet  these  prophecies  were  disregarded,  and  notwithstanding 
their  solemn  murmuring  and  ominous  shakings  of  the  head, 
the  sport  was  continued  ;  and  many  a  wondering  albatross 
was  bitten,  when  he  took  a  bite  at  the  treacherous  pork ; 
until  one  day,  after  numbers  had  been  taken,  one  of  the 
messes  determined  to  have  a  sea-pie,  of  which  the  body  of 
one  of  these  birds  should  be  the  component  part.     If  force 


22     .  K  at  hay: 

could  have  been  used  to  prevent  the  consummation  of  this 
deed,  that  mess  had  not  dined  that  day  :  but  as  the  crew  on 
board  of  a  man-of-war  have  no  other  recourse  but  to  report 
their  grievances  to  the  first  lieutenant,  and  that  not  being 
deemed  advisable  in  such  a  case,  these  men  were  allowed 
to  eat  the  albatross.  Now  I  do  not  pretend  to  identify  the 
captor  of  the  bird,  nor  was  I  able  to  point  out  the  person 
who  ate  the  greater  portion  of  him  when  transformed  into  a 
pie ;  but  it  so  happened  that  the  next  morning,  about  seven 
bells,  the  ship  was  alarmed  by  the  cry  of  "A  man  over- 
board !"  This  is  an  appalling  sound  at  any  time ;  but 
when  the  ship  is  making  ten  knots,  with  a  heavy  sea  on, 
the  chances  for  a  fellow-creature's  fate,  make  the  moment 
one  of  dreadful  anxiety,  and  especially  to  the  commander, 
one  of  fearful  responsibility ;  as  to  save  one  life,  that  of  ten 
or  more  must  be  risked.  Ready  for  the  occasion,  ours  never 
hesitated.  The  ship  was  put  about  at  once,  and  as  her 
headway  was  reduced,  a  boat  prepared  for  lowering,  volun- 
teers to  the  rescue  called  away,  and  the  boat  at  once  so 
crowded  as  to  make  it  necessary  to  order  men  out  of  her 
before  she  could  be  let  down.  She  had  barely  touched  the 
water,  when  the  men  gave  way ;  but  now  came  the  diffi- 
culty, which  way  to  steer  ?  Our  velocity  had  been  so  great 
as  to  leave  the  poor  fellow  miles  astern ;  and  as  eveiy  one 
had  been  engaged  at  his  station  in  wearing  ship,  the  bear- 
ings of  the  place  where  he  was  struggling  for  dear  life  had 
become  confused.  Twenty  voices  shouted  out  "  Pull  there !" 
"  Pull  here !"  and  as  many  hands  pointed  to  as  many  differ- 
ent directions.     Our  commander,  who  had  carefully  scanned 


A  Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  23 

the  surrounding  waters,  and  had  shown  the  greatest  solici- 
tude for  the  fate  of  the  poor  fellow,  combined  with  that 
steady  coolness  so  necessary  in  such  moments,  ordering  si- 
lence, made  a  signal  for  the  boat  to  pull  towards  a  spot 
where  a  number  of  albatross  were  hovering.     The  midship- 
man in  the  boat  at  last  comprehending  the  signal,  pulled  as 
directed;  and  then,  after  hoisting  in  what  appeared  to  be 
the  life-buoy,  which  had  been  let  go  on  the  first  alarm, 
headed  for  the  ship.    To  lessen  the  distance,  in  such  a  heavy 
swell,  the  ship  also  approached  the  boat ;  and  as  she  bent  her 
head  gracefully  towards  that  which  she  had  so  long  sustained 
at  her  side,  I  could  hardly  divest  my  mind  of  the  idea  that 
she  was  possessed  of  instinct,  and   sought  with   maternal 
eagerness  her  tiny  child,  which  had  strayed  upon  the  ocean. 
As  the  boat  approached,  from  the  forecastle  the  man's  form 
could  be   distinguished ; — he   was   saved !     Soon   he   was 
handed  over  the  side,  given  over  to  the  surgeon  to  resusci- 
tate, and  the  next  day   was   about,  and  attending  to  his 
duty.     And  now  for  the  connection  of  the  albatross  with 
this  accident.     One  of  his  messmates  declared  most  solemn- 
ly that  he  had  seen  an  albatross  sweeping  over  the  topgal- 
lant forecastle  whenever  this  man — who  had  feasted  upon 
one  of  his  kind — had  appeared  upon  it ;  and  that  at  the 
very  moment  of  his  disappearance,  (he  fell  from  the  head,) 
this  same  identical  bird  had  made  a  swoop,  and  carried  him 
overboard  !     Then,  the  men  in  the  boat  also  affirmed,  that 
when  they  reached  the  drowning  man,  two  albatross  were 
holding  him  up  by  the  hair,  whilst  others,  circling  round 
his  head,  pecked  wickedly  at  his  face ;  thus  retaliating  upon 


24  Kathay: 

one  who  had  devoured  their  species,  by  picking  his  bones  in 
return.  But  if  the  truth  must  be  told,  however  disposed 
the  birds  may  have  been,  they  were  the  means  used  by 
Divine  Providence  to  prolong  the  sailor's  life ;  for  they  not 
only  sustained  him,  as  they  would  have  done  any  other  de- 
sirable object,  by  pecking  at  it,  but  also  directed  us  where  to 
send  the  boat  to  his  assistance.  So  the  man  who  ate,  es- 
caped the  more  prolonged  punishment  of  him  who 

"  shot  the  albatross." 


To  show  how  these  matters  are  managed  on  board  a 
man-of-war,  I  give  the  report  of  the  affair :  "At  *7h.  30m., 
J.  D.  (O.  S.)  fell  overboard  ;  hove  to ;  lowered  a  boat ; 
wore  ship,  and  picked  him  up.  At  8,  wore,  and  stood  upon 
our  course."  If  a  man  had  slipped  upon  the  pavement,  and 
you  had  assisted  him  to  rise  by  extending  your  hand,  the 
fact  could  hardly  have  been  explained  in  fewer  words.  But 
it  is  this  indifference  to  danger,  and  the  casualties  of  his 
calling,  that  makes  up  the  efficiency  of  the  sailor. 

On  the  twenty-third  day  of  April  we  were  obliged  to  lay 
to  in  lat.  38°  26'  south,  and  longitude  45°  34'  47//  east, 
by  chronometer,  and  on  parts  of  the  first,  third,  and  fourth 
days  of  May  had  to  undergo  the  same  operation.  This  was 
by  no  means  pleasant,  as,  owing  to  the  weight  of  our  bat- 
tery, we  rolled  very  much ;  and  as  we  could  not  close  the 
ports  entirely,  for  fear  of  carrying  them  away,  had  a  con- 
stant flow  of  water  across  the  deck,  sometimes  very  difficult 
to  bear  up  against. 

On   the   tenth  of  May,   at   about  5    p.   m.,   all  hands 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.         25 

were  called  to  reef  topsails,  and  a  forecastle  man,  who  was 
hurrying  aloft  to  assist  his  companions  on  the  foreyard,  fell 
from  only  a  few  rattlings  above  the  sheerpole  upon  the  deck, 
and  injured  himself  so  severely  as  to  cause  his  death  early 
the  next  morning.     Poor  fellow ! 

"  Nor  wife,  nor  children,  more  shall  he  behold, 
Nor  friends,  nor  sacred  home." 

His  remains  were  committed  to  the  deep,  at  meridian  of  the 
same  day ;  and  many  a  manly  fellow  among  his  messmates 
and  the  crew  added  a  briny  drop  to  the  wave 

which  bore  him  away, 


And  wept  in  compassion  for  him. 

The  ship,  as  if  loth  to  leave  the  spot,  lingered  there ;  for  it 
fell  calm,  and  by  the  next  meridian  we  had  logged  but 
seven  miles. 


26  Kathay: 


CHAPTEK  III. 

Island  of  St.  Paul— Steering  for  Java  Head— Land  ho !— Christmas  Island— Straits 
of  Sunda— A  Beautiful  Scene— Sentimental  Simile— Come  to  Anchor— Anger 
Point— Village  of  Anger— On  Shore  in  Java— Perfume  of  the  East— Banyan 
Tree— The  Governor  and  Dutch  Hotel  Keeper— Welcome  at  an  Inn— Attack  on 
Anger  Fort— Dutch  Officers'  prowess,  and  French !— The  Javanese— Chinaman 
— Mosque— Mahomet— Bazaar— Watering  Place. 

rpO  make  the  island  of  Saint  Paul  in  the  Indian  Ocean,  be- 
■*■  came  now  our  principal  object,  but  baffling  and  adverse 
winds  delayed  us.  At  last  during  a  stormy  night  the 
longitude  of  this  island  was  obtained,  and  we  steered  as 
well  as  we  were  able  for  Java  Head  and  the  Straits  of  Sunda. 
Upon  the  twenty-fifth  day  of  May  at  ten  minutes  past  four, 
p.  m.,  the  welcome  cry  of  "  Land  ho  !"  was  heard  at  the  mast 
head,  which  was  found  to  be  Christmas  Island,  and  which 
we  also  passed  in  the  night  too  late  to  make  any  observations. 

We  were,  however,  more  certain  now  of  the  correctness 
of  our  position,  and  when,  at  daylight  on  the  27  th,  Trower's 
and  Clapp's  islands  were  made,  felt  sure  of  soon  seeing  Java 
Head,  and  in  a  short  time  this  long  looked  for  landmark 
greeted  our  eyes.  Here  we  entered  the  Straits  formed  by 
the  approximation  of  the  islands  of  Java  and  Sumatra,  and 
called  the  Straits  of  Sunda. 

The  night  of  our  entrance  was  one  of  some  anxiety,  and 
between  this  feeling  and  the  excitement  of  making  land  after 


A    Cruise    in    the   China    Seas.         27 

a  long  and  boisterous  passage,  caused  a  pretty  general  watch 
to  be  kept  by  idlers  and  all. 

It  was  in  the  morning  watch — Prince's  Island  had  been 
safely  passed,  and  the  principal  dangers  of  the  passage  over- 
come, when  seated  upon  the  foreyard  a  scene  of  beauty  opened 
upon  my  eyes,  which  it  may  be  long  before  they  are  greeted 
with  again.  We  were  heading  up  the  Straits,  and  from  my 
position  the  highlands  of  both  islands  were  in  sight.  The  morn- 
ing air  was  soft  and  balmy,  and  came  laden  with  sweet  odors, 
as  if  Aurora  had  lingered  to  inhale  them  upon  the  "  Spice 
island." 

We  were  being  wafted  along  almost  imperceptibly,  with 
but  so  slight  an  undulation  as  scarcely  to  be  felt.  To  the 
eastward  rose  a  high  peak  on  Sumatra,  around  which  the 
sky  was  rosy  with  the  day  god's  first  beams.  The  gentle 
waters  around  us  were  still  in  shadow,  with  sufficient  light, 
however,  upon  their  surface  to  enable  the  eye  to  take  in 
their  expanse,  and  to  distinguish  objects  upon  them.  In  the 
distance,  and  approaching,  was  a  brig  looking  like  a  tiny 
toy,  with  British  colors  at  her  gaff,  beating  out  of  the  Straits. 
As  the  sun,  climbing  still  higher  the  side  of  the  obstructing 
mountain,  diffused  his  gladdening  light  over  this  magnifi- 
cent scene,  the  idea  struck  me,  and  call  it  sentimental  if  you 
will,  that  it  was  like  the  first  blush  suffusing  the  face  of  a 
fair  young  bride,  ere  the  full  glad  assurance  of  her  happi- 
ness comes  in  all  its  power  to  convert  it  into  a  bright,  beam- 
ing smile.  So  did  these  rosy  rays  overspread  the  face  of 
nature,  and  enliven  every  feature. 

On  the  twenty-ninth  of  May,  came  to  anchor  at  Anger 


28  K  a  t  h  a  y  : 

Point  off  the  village  of  Anger  (pronounced  Anjier),  a  Dutch 
settlement.  Of  course  the  desire  to  get  on  shore  was  gene- 
ral after  being  over  seventy  days  on  ship-board,  and  my  feet 
were  among  the  first  of  those  which  touched  the  soil  of  Java. 

What  struck  me  first  as  we  approached  the  shore,  was 
that  remarkable  perfume  which  every  one  notices  as  peculiar 
to  the  East. 

A  magnificent  banyan  tree,  which  literally  spreads  itself 
over  the  landing,  next  became  an  object  of  attraction ;  of  its 
exact  spread  or  height  I  was  not  informed,  but  the  natives 
muster  in  numbers  under  its  branches,  and  the  Dutch  Gov- 
ernor uses  it  to  display  the  signal  of  his  authority — the 
flag  of  his  nation. 

The  governor  of  this  district,  whose  pardon  I  must  crave 
for  allowing  his  name  just  now  to  slip  from  my  memory, 
has,  here  at  Anger,  a  very  fine  house  and  extensive  grounds 
kept  in  admirable  order,  and  appeared  to  enjoy  himself  in  this 
out-of-the-way  place,  but  as  he  possessed  a  young,  pretty,  and 
interesting  companion,  in  the  shape  of  a  little  wife,  had  a 
perfect  right  to  do  so,  especially  being 

"  Monarch  of  all  he  surveyed." 

Whilst  his  next  door  neighbor,  Mr.  Van-Sy  Something  or 
other,  having  a  house  nearly  as  comfortable,  used  it  as  a 
hotel,  if  hotel  that  can  be  called,  in  which  you  have  permis- 
sion to  wait  upon  yourself,  and  are  charged  extravagantly  for 
the  privilege,  whilst  its  proprietor  pays  his  devoirs  [devours  T) 
to  his  bottle  of  Schnapps,  from  which  his  lips  are  seldom  re- 
moved, excepting  to  receive  his  pipe,  and  to  sputter  out  some 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.         29 

delectable  Dutch.  Thought  of  Wm.  Shenstone's  "  Warmest 
Welcome  at  an  Inn,"  and  wished  the  poet  had  been  com- 
pelled to  "  put  up"  with  this  same  Dutchman  as  a  species  of 
"poetical  justice,"  for  placing  the  purchased  pleasures  of  a 
public  house  before  the  sacred  and  free  gifts  of  home. 

There  is  a  fort  here  in  good  repair  and  kept  in  excellent 
order,  and  I  was  informed  that  a  short  time  previous  to  our 
arrival  it  had  been  attacked  by  the  natives,  who  were  re- 
pulsed with  great  slaughter.  The  attack  was  fierce  and 
vigorous,  but  as  the  Malays  were  not  possessed  of  fire-arms, 
and  made  the  assault  with  only  their  naked  creeses,  they 
were  easily  repulsed.  Was  told  of  the  tremendous  execu- 
tion done  by  one  gun  in  throwing  grape  amongst  them,  but 
I  felt  a  little  inclined  to  doubt  its  efficiency  upon  examining 
its  bore. 

The  attacking  Malays  were  not  those  of  the  immediate 
vicinity,  whose  prowess,  from  their  appearance,  I  should  be 
inclined  to  doubt,  but  came  from  the  mountains,  an  uncon- 
quered  people,  who  continually  make  war  upon  the  invaders 
of  their  soil.  I  was  greatly  amused  by  the  recital  of  his  part 
in  the  affair,  by  a  non-commissioned  officer,  who  informed 
me  that  he  was  born  a  Belgian,  and  gave  his  story  in  broken 
French,  broken  in  words  as  well  as  grammar,  for  he  had 
been  imbibing  something  stronger  than  water.  It  appeared 
that  his  valiant  self  and  two  others  equally  brave — one  a 
Frenchman,  the  other  a  Prussian — had  been  selected  to  serve 
as  a  picket,  or  avante  garde,  as  he  termed  it,  some  distance 
from  the  fort,  at  a  place  called  the  "Barrier."  When  at 
midnight  they  heard  the  approach  of  the  enemy.     "  Je  mette 


30  Kathay: 

mon  fusil  a  mon  bras,"  he  said ;  "  et  a  le  Francais  je  di, 
Prenez — garde  !  A  le  Prusse" — hesitating — "  Prenez  garde ! 
aussi,  et  nous  faissons  un  grande  detour, — et — et,  nous  es- 
chappons.  Et  voila,  monsieur,"  he  continued,  pointing  to 
the  stripes  upon  his  arm,  "  Je  suis  sous  officier  done.  Je 
suis  caporal  de  la  garde, — le  meme  comme  Napoleon, — 
le  petit  Caporal."  With  a  hearty  laugh  we  bade  "  le  petit 
Caporal "  bon  nuit,  and  returned  to  our  hotel,  asking  our- 
selves what  need  there  could  be  for  the  Philosopher's  Stone, 
whilst  there  existed  such  a  talisman  as  Conceit  ? 

The  Javanese  are  called  Malays,  whilst  the  inhabitants  of 
the  neighboring  island  of  Sumatra  also  claim  the  same  ap- 
pellation. From  their  rules  for  government,  their  religion, 
and  other  distinctive  marks,  I  would  consider  them  connected 
with  the  Arabian  race. 

Polygamy  is  permitted  amongst  them,  and  they  are  al- 
lowed to  possess  wives  according  to  their  means.  Ouseman, 
our  compradore,  and  a  rajah,  told  me  he  had  three,  all  liv- 
ing peaceably  together  at  his  house.  Think  of  that,  ye  of 
the  Caucasian  race,  who,  with  more  means,  find  it  difficult 
to  get  along  with  one,  and  in  a  colder  climate  too ! 

Came  upon  a  Chinaman  here,  a  real  Fa-qui,  tail,  cos- 
tume and  all,  and  for  aught  I  know  may  have  seen  the  in- 
dividual before,  for  he  informed  me  that  he  had  been  to  the 
United  States — "America"  he  called  them — and  had  so- 
journed in  Boston,  and  this  too  with  as  strict  regard  to  the 
memory  of  Lindley  Murray,  and  in  as  good  English  as 
we  have  heard  from  many  a  denizen  of  that  second  Athens. 
He  also  proved  that  he  had  profited  by  his  residence  abroad, 


A  Cruise  in  the  China  Seas.    31 

for  he  cheated  us  entirely  to  our  satisfaction,  and  with  such 
a  grace  as  almost  to  make  us  fear  he  was  robbing  himself, 
and  only  exchanged  his  articles  for  our  coin,  out  of  respect 
for  our  country.  These  Chinese  are  truly  said  to  be  an  imi- 
tative people. 

They  have  a  place  of  worship  here,  called  a  Mosque, 
where  I  was  told  the  Prophet  was  worshipped.  Hearing, 
one  night,  a  great  noise  within  its  sacred  precincts,  I  ven- 
tured in, — not  without  many  mutterings  of  dissatisfaction 
from  the  Malays  assembled  at  its  threshold, — and  looked 
upon  a  large  room  dimly  lighted,  without  any  visible  pres- 
ence of  the  Prophet,  although  a  large  chair  was  raised  in 
the  centre  of  it  for  him  to  rest  upon,  and  a  parcel  of  half- 
clad  wretches  were  grovelling  around  its  feet,  with  cries 
piteous  enough  to  have  brought  him  down  even  from  the 
lap  of  the  most  beautiful  of  his  dark-eyed  houris,  had  he 
one-half  of  that  humanity  for  which  his  worshippers  gave 
him  credit.  I  was  told  that  these  were  sick  persons,  and 
their  friends,  praying  for  relief: — a  very  commendable  thing 
in  a  place  where  there  were  none  but  commissioned  sur- 
geons, provided  Mahomet  has  as  much  skill  in  medicine 
now,  as  he  possessed  over  these  gentlemen  in  his  methods 
of  amputation  when  he  practised  here  below. 

Visited  the  market-place,  called  Bazaar.  Found  all 
kinds  of  tropical  fruits  in  great  abundance :  cocoanuts, 
bananas,  plantains,  mangusteens,  &c.  &c,  and  what  proved 
its  general  use,  at  every  stall,  large  quantities  of  the  be- 
tel-nut were  exposed  for  sale.  This  nut  is  used  for  its 
exhilarating  properties,  and  is  chewed  as  is  tobacco;  but 


32  K  A  T  H  A  Y  : 

whether  its  juice  is  swallowed,  I  cannot  say.  It  blackens 
the  teeth,  and  must  prove  very  efficacious  in  destroying  the 
enamel.  Indeed,  from  the  practice  they  have  of  filing  their 
teeth  across,  and  the  use  of  this  acid,  it  is  a  wonder  that 
any  thing  should  remain  but  blackened  stumps. 

"Watered  ship  here,  from  a  reservoir,  supplied  by  an 
aqueduct  from  the  mountains,  a  distance  of  some  leagues. 
The  water  is  good,  and  the  supply  appears  sufficient, 
although  I  cannot  commend  the  construction  of  the  chan- 
nel through  which  it  is  brought.  It  is  of  stone,  and  stuc- 
coed, raised  about  two  feet  from  the  level  of  the  road,  and 
open  at  the  top.  During  a  short  walk  along  this  road,  I 
saw  numbers  of  Malay  women  using  its  waters  for  the  pur- 
pose of  ablution ;  and  I  could  not  count  the  number  of  the 
various  reptiles  of  this  prolific  clime,  who,  lured  by  their 
deceitful  flow,  had  met  a  watery  death. 

To  show  the  economy  of  its  construction,  I  may  state, 
that  it  is  brought  across  a  small  stream,  through  bamboo 
troughs,  so  loosely  attached  that  sufficient  water  is  wasted 
in  its  passage  to  turn  a  small  mill  in  Yankee  land. 

The  first  day  of  June  weighed  anchor,  and  stood  up  the 
Straits ;  and  a  busy  time,  too,  we  had  in  getting  through. 
It  was  "  Let  go  the  anchor !"  "  Furl  sails !"  "  All  hands  up 
anchor !"  "  Make  sail !"  for  several  days.  At  last,  this  chan- 
nel and  the  Straits  of  Gaspar  being  passed,  we  entered 
safely  the  China  Sea. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  33 


CHAPTER  IV. 

China  Sea— Anchor  off  Macko— Canton  River— Whampoa— Trip  to  Canton— The 
San-pan— Pagodas— Lob  Creek— Salt  Junks— Description  of  a  Junk— Manda- 
rin, or  Search  Boats— Pirates— Crowded  state  of  River  at  Canton— Land  at 
Factory  Stairs— Visit  Vice-Consul— New  China  Street— A  Cow-IIouse— Won- 
ders of  Canton— Factory  Gardens— Water  Parties— Buddhist  Temples,  and 
Holy  Pigs— Dock-yard  at  Whampoa— American  Missionary  at  Newtown- 
Bethel,  and  its  Pastor— Fourth  of  July— Back  to  Macao— The  Typa— The 
Barrier. 

THE  southwest  monsoon  wafted  us  quietly  and  quickly 
over  the  China  Sea,  and  upon  the  nineteenth  of  June 
we  came  to  anchor  off  Macao,  in  the  outer  roads.  Not  find- 
ing the  flag-ship  there,  as  was  expected,  after  taking  in 
some  provisions  from  the  naval  depot,  weighed  anchor, 
and  proceeded  up  the  Canton  River  to  Whampoa,  where 
we  moored  ship  in  the  "  American  Reach  "  to  undergo  ne- 
cessary repairs.  "Whilst  these  were  going  on,  I  procured  a 
"  fast  boat,"  and  went  up  to  Canton,  about  nine  miles  above 
that  part  of  the  "  Reach  "  in  which  we  lay. 

These  boats — the  "  San-pan,"  or  boat  of  this  country — 
are  used  expressly  for  the  conveyance  of  passengers  and 
their  effects,  and  are  kept  scrupulously  clean  for  that  pur- 
pose. They  pull  from  three  to  six  oars,  according  to  their 
size.  The  oarsmen  are  all  seated  forwards,  whilst  a  woman, 
generally  with  a  child  fastened  to  her  back,  both  propels 
3 


34  K  A  T  H  A  y  : 

and  steers  with  a  long  oar  from  the  stern,  which  she  man- 
ages with  great  dexterity,  appearing  to  work  harder,  and 
with  better  effect,  than  her  lazy  lord,  (who  has  generally 
the  bow  oar,)  at  the  same  time  keeping  a  bright  lookout 
ahead,  and  giving  warning  in  her  guttural  chant  of  any  ob- 
struction. 

Passed  two  Pagodas,  each  of  nine  stories,  and  made  a 
romantic  cut-off,  via  Lob  Creek.  Soon  we  came  upon  a 
large  number  of  junks  at  anchor,  with  huge  manilla  ca- 
bles,— one  of  which  our  interpreter  pointed  out  as  "  Salt 
Junk."  We  had  seen  enough  of  that  during  our  passage 
out,  but  this  kind  of  junk  interested  us  ;  for  a  more  clumsy 
piece  of  naval  architecture  could  hardly  have  been  invented 
to  annoy  the  eye  of  a  sailor.  With  her  perpendicular  masts 
of  one  stick,  no  bowsprit,  only  an  opening  where  it  should 
be,  to  receive  an  anchor,  made  of  part  of  a  crooked  tree ; 
poop  sticking  up  like  a  game  fowl's  tail,  and  immense  red 
and  white  eyes  painted  on  each  bow  : — for  the  Chinese  sailor 
says :  "  No  have  eyes,  how  can  see  ?  no  can  see,  how 
can  walkee?" — make  such  a  picture  of  a  thing  to  float  in, 
and  wherewith  to  transport  worldly  effects,  that  the  question 
naturally  arises,  What  would  be  the  probable  per  centage  a 
Chinese  underwriter  would  demand  as  premium  to  insure 
in  such  a  bottom  ?  Indeed,  I  must  do  the  memory  of  the 
patriarch  Noah  the  justice  to  believe,  that  his  craft  was 
put  together  with  a  better  adaptation  to  the  principles  of 
flotation  than  this,  or  it  would  never  have  lived  through 
that  gale  of  forty  days  and  forty  nights,  logged  in  the  Good 
Book. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  35 

Soon,  however,  we  came  across  some  better-looking 
specimens,  which  we  were  told  were  the  "Mandarin,"  or 
"  Search  Boats,"  belonging  to  the  Chinese  Customs.  Their 
models  appeared  better  adapted  to  "  make  walkee,"  and,  in 
addition  to  sails,  they  had  double  banks  of  oars. 

At  what  I  took  to  be  the  Navy  Yard,  saw  some  English 
hulls,  which  had  been  built  upon,  and  which,  in  spite  of  all 
this  eccentric  people  could  do  to  change  their  appearance, 
still  looked  ship-shaped.  There  were  also  some  sharp-look- 
ing junks  being  built,  which  I  was  told'were  to  be  fitted  out 
against  the  pirates ;  but,  if  what  I  afterwards  learned  be 
true,  they  were  more  likely  to  become  piratical  craft  them- 
selves ;  for  it  was  reported  that  the  person  to  whose  charge 
they  were  to  have  been  consigned  had  been  extensively  en- 
gaged in  that  business  himself,  until-  he  was  interfered  with 
by  the  English,  who  broke  up  his  fleet ;  and  that  now  he 
had  humbugged  the  Chinese  government  into  giving  him 
another.     At  least,  so  ran  the  rumor. 

As  we  approached  the  Factories,  it  seemed  almost  im- 
possible to  make  our  way  through  the  immense  number  of 
boats  and  other  craft  which  appeared  to  play  hide-and-seek 
amongst  the  larger  junks  moored  in  every  direction  in  the 
stream  ;  but,  thanks  to  the  skill  of  our  female  pilot,  we 
avoided  all  collision,  and  brought  up  safely  at  the  Factory 
stairs.  It  was  excessively  hot;  and  as  we  walked  across 
the  Factory  Gardens  to  the  Consulate,  the  effects  of  the  sun 
upon  the  clean  glossy  walks  was  painful  to  the  eyes. 

After  paying  our  respects  to  the  Vice-Consul,  took  a 
short  turn  lip  New  China  Street  to  make  a  few  necessary 


36  Kathay: 

purchases,  and  then  threaded  our  way  back  to  Acow's  Ho- 
tel,— facetiously  termed  by  one  of  the  party  who  had  the 
remembrances  of  dainty  spreads  at  the  "Astor"  and  "Irving 
House  "  in  his  mind,  "  a  cow  house  !" 

Here  we  had  "  tiffin," — Anglice,  lunch, — and  then  dis- 
posed ourselves  as  well  as  we  could  for  comfort  and  cool 
air,  neither  of  which  did  Ave  obtain ;  nor  what  our  parched 
throats  so  loudly  called  for, — cool  water.  Acow  had  no 
ice  ;  so  our  only  recourse  was  to  procure  bottles  of  "  aerated 
water," — we  called  it  "  Pop,"  in  our  ignorance,  and  to  send 
them  where  truth  is  said  to  reside, — the  bottom  of  a  well. 

As  the  sun  declined,  walked  out  to  view  the  wonders  of 
Canton ;  and  although  it  was  Sunday,  found  the  streets 
thronged  with-  coolies  carrying  heavy  burdens  of  merchan- 
dise, slung  on  bamboos  resting  on  their  shoulders,  plying 
backwards  and  forwards  on  their  different  errands,  in  a  jog 
trot,  with  a  loud  grunt; — the  grunt  as  much  to  relieve 
them,  as  to  give  warning  to  those  in  their  way.  Passed 
through  different  streets  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Facto- 
ries, all  composed  of  shops,  from  which  long-tailed  China- 
men rushed  out,  chinohinning,  and  soliciting  our  custom. 
These  streets  have  a  great  similarity,  and  a  description  of 
one  would  answer  for  all.  With  the  exception  of  some  that 
are  devoted  to  the  sale  of  particular  articles,  as  the  Street 
of  Tailors,  and  Curiosity  Street,  they  differ  only  in  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  article  exposed  for  sale.  They  are  quite 
narrow  and  used  only  by  pedestrians.  The  only  quadruped 
I  recollect  seeing  in  them  was  a  diminutive  jackass,  standing 
before  a  shop  in  "  Old  China  Street."     How  he  came  there, 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  37 

or  for  what  purpose,  I  could  not  determine.  It  may 
have  been  out  of  compliment  to  the  "  Foreign  Devils,"  that 
his  long  ears  were  exhibited ;  but  if  his  position  was  illusive, 
in  one  relation  it  failed ;  for,  despite  these  appendages,  the 
beast  did  not  enter  the  shop. 

The  gardens  I  found  the  most  attractive.  They  are  in 
front  of  the  different  factories,  and  over  them  floats  the  flag 
of  the  nation,  opposite  its  respective  consulate.  They  cover 
several  acres,  and  are  well  laid  out,  planted  with  every  vari- 
ety of  tree  and  shrub,  and  are  kept  in  admirable  order.  For- 
merly, I  understood,  there  had  been  a  partition  wall  between 
the  English  and  American  portions,  but  this  had  lately  been 
removed,  as  I  hope  may  be  all  causes  of  division  between 
the  two  governments. 

Towards  evening  these  gardens  are  frequented  by  nearly 
all  of  the  European  population,  who  stroll  about  to  enjoy  the 
breezes  from  the  water  after  the  heat  of  the  day. 

A  number  of  Parsees  are  daily  to  be  seen,  with  their 
long,  white,  and  scrupulously  clean  linen  surtouts,  turbans,  or 
else  bugshaped  caps,  wide  trousers,  just  appearing  beneath 
their  white  coats  (an  improvement  on  the  Bloomer  costume,  I 
thought),  and  shoes  pointed  at  the  toes  with  pieces  of  some 
kind  of  metal,  turned  up,  after  the  fashion  of  what  the  boys 
call  "  high  dutch"  in  skates,  at  home. 

Witnessed  the  worship  of  one  of  this  strange  sect,  and 
his  devotions  to  his  fire  god  in  his  setting,  appeared  as  sin- 
cere, at  least,  as  those  of  many,  who  consider  themselves 
more  favored  in  being  able  to  look  "  through  nature,  up  to 
nature's  God." 


38  Kathay: 

A  Fanqui,  or  foreigner,  finds  himself  much  circumscribed 
in  his  peregrinations  about  Canton.  With  the  few  narrow 
streets  above  mentioned,  and  the  open  space  in  front  of  the 
factories,  he  must  fain  be  content ;  but  upon  the  water  his 
way  is  more  open,  and  the  European  and  American  residents 
avail  themselves  of  the  broad  river  to  launch  and  sail  their 
most  beautiful  boats,  as  also  to  use  the  hong  boats,  san-pans, 
fast,  and  flower-boats,  fitted  up  in  every  style  of  luxury.  In 
these,  after  the  business  of  the  day  is  over,  and  the  heat  of 
the  sun  abated,  parties  pass  their  evenings,  in  smoking  se- 
gars  and  conversation. 

Across  the  river  are  some  Buddhist  temples,  in  which 
shaven  priests  are  almost  continually  engaged  in  "  chin  chin- 
nings,"  and  where  are  kept  some  holy  pigs  in  a  state  of  con- 
tinual surfeit.  The  very  last  animal  I  should  think  of  hold- 
ing sacred. 

There  are  some  gardens  in  the  suburbs  of  Canton,  said 
to  be  worthy  of  a  visit,  but  these  I  had  no  opportunity  to 
see. 

After  exhausting  my  patience  and  finances  at  "  Acow's," 
I  returned  to  the  ship  to  explore  the  environs  of  Whampoa. 
Our  anchorage  was  at  the  head  of  the  Reach,  opposite  a  ship 
yard  in  "  Newtown,"  where  a  large  ship,  the  Prince  de  Join- 
ville,  was  then  in  dock  undergoing  repairs.  This  yard  was 
at  that  time  in  the  possession  of  a  Mr.  Cowper,  a  yankee,  if 
I  am  not  misinformed,  but  had  been  originally  established  by 
a  Chinaman.  Every  thing  necessary  for  repairing  a  vessel  ap- 
peared to  be  on  hand,  and  Mr.  C.  was  then  engaged  in  cop- 
pering the  one  on  his  dock. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  39 

Whampoa  Reach  is  the  anchorage  for  merchantmen,  and 
is  the  most  convenient  place  to  Canton  for  that  purpose.  A 
large  number  of  vessels  were  here  receiving  and  awaiting 
cargoes,  and  the  daily  arrivals  and  departures  of  ships  give 
it  a  cheerful  aspect.* 

The  old  town  of  Whampoa  is  strictly  Chinese,  and  sepa- 
rated from  contact  with  the  "  outside  barbarian,"  as  much  as 
is  Canton,  by  its  walls.  It  is  true,  you  may  be  allowed  to 
pass  its  gates,  but  run  a  risk  of  being  hustled  and  pelted  out 
of  their  vicinity. 

Newtown  is  composed  of  traders,  who  are  gradually  leav- 
ing the  "  old  town,"  which  is  some  distance  below,  and  is 
called  Bamboo  town.  Both  of  these  places  are  accessible, 
and  have  the  interminable  lane  of  shops,  all  the  "same 
same,"  as  in  Canton. 

Called  upon  Mr.  Bonny,  an  American  Missionary,  who 
was  then  a  resident  at  Newtown,  but  who  hoped  soon  to 
settle  in  Whampoa,  and  was  making  arrangements  for  a 
house  within  its  walls.  He  appeared  devoted  to  his  voca- 
tion,  with  strong  hopes  of  success.  Found  him  (it  was 
night)  engaged  with  several  Chinese,  the  principal  men  of 
the  village,  to  whom  he  was  exhibiting  a  magic  lantern,  with 
which  they  seemed  greatly  pleased.  It  was  a  very  superior 
instrument,  and  an  excellent  method  of  conveying  to  un- 
practised minds,  many  things,  which  otherwise  must  have 
remained  mysteries  to  them.  The  motion  of  the  earth,  for 
instance,  illustrated  by  a  ship  rising  above  the  horizon — the 
sidereal  system,  and  the  eclipses  of  the  moon.  He  describes 
the  population  of  this  vicinity  as  being  very  dense,  and  igno- 


40  Kathay: 

rant.  Their  belief  resembles  the  ancient  mythology,  for 
they  have  their  Jupiter  Tonans,  or  "  thunder  god,"  and  other 
deities  similar  to  those  worshipped  by  the  more  classical  hea- 
then of  Rome  and  Greece.  He  has  succeeded  in  partially 
disabusing  the  minds  of  some,  but  finds  it  requires  great  ef- 
forts to  eradicate  ideas  so  strongly  implanted.  May  he  have 
success  in  his  disinterested  labors!  I  should  have  earlier 
mentioned  that  Mr.  Bonny  speaks  the  Chinese  language,  and 
appears  to  convey  his  ideas  with  much  fluency. 

There  is  a  bethel,  or  floating  "seaman's  chapel,"  an- 
chored in  the  "  Reach,"  which  was  presided  over  by  the  Rev. 
George  Loomis,  whom  I  had  the  pleasure  to  hear  deliver  an 
excellent  discourse  from  the  text :  "  And  by  one  man  sin  en- 
tered into  the  world,  and  death  by  sin."  In  the  course  of 
his  remarks  he  made  a  beautiful  and  touching  allusion  to 
the  deaths  of  those  two  great  men,  Sir  Robert  Peel  and 
General  Taylor,  the  news  of  which  had  just  reached  us  by 
mail. 

Was  pleased  to  see  a  numerous  and  attentive  audience  of 
shipmasters  and  seamen,  and  from  the  frank  and  pleasing 
address  of  Mr.  L.  cannot  doubt  but  that  he  will  have  great 
success  with  this  class  of  men. 

The  bethel  was  in  itself  a  very  neat  affair.  The  place 
devoted  to  public  worship  being  about  fifty  feet  by  thirty, 
prepared  with  admirable  adaptation  for  that  purpose,  and  well 
ventilated.  It  contained,  besides  apartments  for  the  pastor, 
a  fine  reading  room,  where  a  number  of  foreign  papers  were 
regularly  filed,  and  a  good  library  kept.     Its  roof  was  flat, 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  41 

and  above  this  was  another  covering  of  matting  which  form- 
ed a  fine  sheltered  promenade.  Indeed,  a  building  could 
hardly  have  been  planned  ashore,  comprising  more  commo- 
dious, convenient,  or  comfortable  quarters,  and  I  am  indebted 
to  its  cool  retreat  for  the  remembrance  of  many  an  hour 
passed  pleasantly. 

The  Anniversary  of  our  National  Independence  came 
round  whilst  we  lay  in  Whampoa.  It  was  recognized  with 
due  honor.  The  ship  dressed  with  flags,  and  a  national  sa- 
lute fired  at  meridian.  A  dinner  was  given  to  the  officers 
by  the  American  shipmasters  and  residents  of  the  "Reach," 
which  passed  off  very  pleasantly.  The  usual  quantity  of 
champagne  and  patriotism  expended.  Toasts  proposed  and 
drank,  and  the  fact  generally  conceded  that  the  United  States 
were  the  greatest  states  on  the  face  of  the  globe,  and  the 
"  United  Staters"  the  greatest  people. 

Our  repairs  completed  we  unmoored,  and  commenced  to 
back  and  fill  down  the  river  until  we  had  cleared  the  ship- 
ping, and  then  taking  advantage  of  the  tide,  got  into  the 
bay  and  headed  for  Macao.  Found  the  flagship  at  anchor 
in  the  outer  roads,  and  after  saluting  and  communicating 
with  the  Commodore,  went  into  the  Typa,  and  moored 
there. 

The  Typa  is  an  anchorage  inside  the  harbor,  and  is  so 
called  from  an  island  which  protects  it  from  the  sea.  It  has 
from  four  to  four  and  a  half  fathoms  water,  and  of  course 
cannot  be  entered  by  very  large  vessels.  Although  in  for- 
mer times  the  largest  sized  East-Indiamen  have  gone  in. 
3* 


42  Kathay: 

They  are  now  forced,  if  stopping  at  Macao,  to  anchor  out- 
side, abreast  the  town,  and  some  four  or  five  miles  off. 

Hong-Shan  river,  or  the  Broadway,  commences  here,  and 
is  a  kind  of  a  cut-off,  navigated  by  junks  from  Canton  to 
Macao. 

The  city  of  Macao,  called  first  by  the  Portuguese,  Port 
da  Macao,  from  the  name  of  a  Chinese  idol  found  there,  is 
called  Gaou,  or  Ou-moon  by  the  Chinese,  and  occupies  the 
soutlfernmost  point  of  the  island  of  Heang-Shan. 

After  the  discovery  of  the  passage  to  the  East  Indies 
around  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  by  De  Gama,  who  landed 
on  the  Malabar  Coast  in  1498,  the  Portuguese  continued  to 
navigate  these  seas,  and  were  allowed  by  the  Chinese  a  shel- 
ter on  this  point.  In  the  year  1550,  having  obtained  a  foot- 
hold, by  degrees  they  built  themselves  stone  houses  and  forts, 
and  commenced  the  foundation  of  a  city. 

About  this  time,  they  had  established  a  profitable  com- 
merce with  Japan,  China,  and  the  Eastern  Islands,  and  this 
settlement  became  the  centre  of  an  extensive  trade,  which 
increased  until  Macao  grew  into  a  place  of  considerable  im- 
portance. 

The  Chinese  government,  however,  in  granting  this  favor 
to  the  Portuguese  fenced  it  around  with  their  usual  caution, 
and  placed  many  restrictions  upon  them.  The  point  upon 
which  Macao  stands,  is  almost  separated  from  the  Island,  the 
connection  being  an  Isthmus  of  about  three  hundred  feet ; 
across  which,  about  three  miles  from  the  Praya,  a  wall  is 
built  through  which  is  a  gateway,  guarded  by  Chinese  sol- 
diers, and  beyond  which  the  Portuguese  were  not  allowed  to 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  43 

pass ;  and  their  municipal  government  was  restricted  to  the 
barrier.     It  was  placed  there  in  15*73. 

When  we  were  there  the  guard  had  been  removed,  and 
a  part  of  the  wall  thrown  down ;  the  Governor  Amaral  hav- 
ing broken  through  more  barriers  than  this,  previous  to  his 
murder — of  which,  anon. 


44  K  ath  a y : 


CHAPTER  V. 

Passage  Ashore— A-ti— The  Praya  —  Forts— Governor's  Road— Description  of 
Macao — Murder  of  Amaral — Manoguvring  of  Seu  and  his  Triumph — A  new 
Governor — His  Death— Council  of  Government — View  from  Guia  Fort— Mar- 
ques' Garden — Camoen's  Grotto— Epitaph  and  Doggerel  written  there — A 
Beautiful  Spot — Stealing  Fire  from  the  Gods— Fate  of  Prometheus. 

•T  EAVING  the  Typa  in  a  fast  boat,  we  were  soon  opposite 
-L*  the  town,  when  we  were  obliged  to  re-embark  on  board 
one  of  a  fleet  of  Tanka  boats,  which  put  out  from  the  shore 
as  soon  as  our  buttons  were  discovered.  Tanka  means 
eggboat ;  they  resemble  an  eggshell  divided  longitudinally , 
and  are  peculiar  to  Macao,  the  shoalness  of  the  water  pre- 
venting a  landing  in  larger  vessels.  Were  captured  by  A-ti, 
a  laughing  Chinese  nymph,  with  a  splendid  set  of  the 
whitest  teeth,  and  landed  safely  on  the  Praya,  after  purchasing 
our  ransom  with  a  Spanish  coin,  in  value  twenty-five  cents. 

The  Praya  is  a  fine  promenade,  extending  in  a  semi- 
circle along  the  entire  front  of  the  city.  On  each  of  its 
points  is  a  fortification,  and  at  its  right  extremity  the  Plaza. 
On  the  part  which  winds  past  the  Plaza,  are  placed  stone 
seats,  which  are  of  a  nature  to  retain  much  of  the  caloric 
dispensed  by  the  sun  during  the  hot  days  in  summer. 

This  walk  is  well  paved,  with  a  stanch  sea  wall  to  pro- 
tect  it  from    the  waves,  which  come  in  with  considerable 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  45 

force,  especially  in   the  Typhoon  season.     It   commands  a 
view  of  the  neighboring  islands,  the  Typa  and  outer  roads. 

Back  of  the  town,  and  overlooking  it,  is  a  hill,  on  which 
is  placed  an  extensive  work,  called  Fort  Monte,  which  not 
only  commands  the  town  but  the  approaches  from  its  rear. 

From  beyond  the  Campo  gate,  a  fine,  smooth,  and  well 
graded  carriage  way  extends  to  the  "  Barrier ;"  and  to  the 
right  of  the  "  Gate,"  on  an  eminence,  stands  a  well  placed 
fort  having  guns  bearing  upon  the  Barrier. 

There  appear,  indeed,  to  be  forts  wherever  one  can  be 
stuck,  and  the  wonder  in  regard  to  some  of  them  is,  how 
they  ever  got  the  guns  into  them,  so  inaccessible  do  they 
seem. 

On  the  Governor's  road,  about  three  fourths  of  a  mile 
from  the  town,  is  a  fine  garden,  belonging  to  a  French  Abbe. 
It  is  arranged  with  much  taste  :  in  its  centre  was  a  small 
mosque-like  temple,  whilst  at  each  corner  of  the  enclosure 
were  towers  of  the  same  style.  The  road  is  the  favorite 
promenade  and  drive,  and  upon  it,  at  the  season  when  we 
were  there,  were  to  be  seen  some  very  fine  equipages,  princi- 
pally belonging  to  persons  from  Hong-Kong  and  Canton. 

Macao,  like  other  Portuguese  towns,  has  many  churches 
and  its  quantum  of  priests.  The  cathedral  is  the  best  look- 
ing building,  although  not  so  large  as  some  of  the  others.  It 
had  lately  been  repaired,  and  both  internally  and  externally 
presented  a  gay  and  gaudy  appearance,  in  strong  contrast 
with  the  decayed  condition  of  the  houses  surrounding  it. 

There  is  the  ruin  of  the  church  of  "  Mater  Dei,"  which 
had  been  destroyed  by  fire,  the  entire  front  of  which  still 


40  Kathay: 

stands,  covered  with  carving,  a  majestic  monument  of  the 
pride  and  power  of  Rome. 

The  other  churches,  although  their  interiors  are  kept  in 
some  repair  for  the  purpose  of  worship,  have  crumbling  and 
mouldering  walls,  proving  that  "  Tempus,  edax  rerum  "  has 
not  spared  them,  and  in  the  absence  of  rejuvenating  art,  still 
uses  his  remorseless  tooth  upon  the  softening  stone. 

Indeed,  what  strikes  the  stranger  most  sadly  and  forcibly 
as  he  saunters  through  the  streets,  is  the  universal  evidence 
of  decay.  It  is  melancholy  to  see  buildings,  which  must 
once  have  been  magnificent,  slowly  sinking  into  rain.  The 
mind  cannot  help  picturing  these  buildings,  brilliant  with 
beauty,  and  resounding  with  festivity,  when  Macao  was  the 
dep6t  for  the  trade  with  China,  with  a  fleet  of  all  nations  fill- 
ing its  harbor,  and  its  storehouses  teeming  with  the  rich  mer- 
chandise of  the  East.        m 

But  British  perseverance,  and  Yankee  enterprise,  have 
asserted  the  supremacy  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  race,  and  the 
vessels,  which  formerly  made  this  their  port  after  their  voy- 
age around  the  Cape,  now  discharge  and  receive  their  car- 
goes at  Whampoa  and  Hong-Kong,  whilst  only  occasionally 
the  masts  of  a  man  of  war,  or  of  some  straggling  merchant- 
man, are  to  be  seen  in  the  harbor  of  Macao. 

The  murder  of  Amaral  in  1849,  is  said  to  have  produced 
a  prejudicial  effect  upon  the  interests  of  Macao,  but  I  cannot 
see  how  that  could  have  influenced  it  in  this  manner,  as  the 
difficulty  had  not  extended  to  open  war,  and  a  Chinaman 
would  have  been  willing  to  trade  if  he  found  it  profitable, 
even  should  such  have  been  the  case ;  and  had  the  Portu- 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  47 

guese  artillery  been  echoing  amongst  the  rocky  hills  of 
Ou-moon,  you  would  have  found  him  seeking  the  almighty 
dollar 

"Even  at  the  cannon's  mouth." 

The  particulars .  of  the  Governor's  murder,  as  I  could  ob- 
tain them,  are  these  :  Ioao  Maria  Ferreira  do  Amaral,  Gov- 
ernor of  the  provinces  of  Macao,  Timor,  and  Solor,  was  assas- 
sinated near  the  "Barrier,"  on  the  2 2d  day  of  August, 
1849.  It  appeared  by  the  confession  of  Chang-asin,  alias 
Chou-asin,  that  an  acquaintance  of  his,  named  Shing-Chi- 
liang,  on  account  of  the  Governor  having  made  roads  with- 
out the  Campo  gates,  by  which  the  grams  of  his  ancestors 
were  destroyed,  was  so  enraged  thereat,  that  he  determined 
to  murder  him  in  order  to  satisfy  his  revenge.  For  the  pur- 
pose of  assisting  in  this  design  he  hired  two  Chinese,  Ko- 
Ahong  and  Li-Apau,  and  charged  Chou-asin,  together  with 
two  other  Chinamen,  Chou-ayan  and  Chen-afat,  to  act  as 
guards  to  prevent  people  from  approaching.  To  this  they  all 
agreed,  and  hearing  that  the  Governor  would  go  out  on  that 
day  for  recreation,  proceeded  to  waylay  him. 

Towards  evening,  when  it  was  twilight,  Shing-Chi-liang 
seeing  Amaral,  the  Governor,  approach  on  horseback,  went 
up  to  him  under  the  pretence  that  he  had  a  petition  to  hand 
him,  saying  that  he  had  a  complaint  to  prefer,  and  whilst 
Amaral  was  stretching  out  his  hand  to  receive  the  paper, 
Shing-Chi-liang  drew  a  sharp  knife  he  had  concealed  in  the 
handle  of  his  umbrella,  and  commenced  stabbing  him  in  the 
arm  and  shoulder,  until  he  fell  from  his  horse,  when  Shing- 


48  Kathay: 

Chi-liang  immediately  cut  off  his  head  and  hand,  and  they 
all  ran,  each  his  own  way.  Chou-ayan  and  Chen-afat  were 
killed  in  an  engagement  with  the  English,  having,  with  him- 
self, fled  to  Hiang-Kang,  a  seaport,  from  whence  they  went 
over  to  the  pirates,  and  he  was  afterwards  seized  by  the 
Chinese  government  and  taken  to  Canton,  where,  after  mak- 
ing this  confession,  he  prayed  for  mercy. 

A  long  and  not  very  amicable  correspondence  was  held 
by  a  Portuguese  Council  of  Government,  formed  at  Macao 
upon  Amaral's  death,  and  Seu,  Governor-General  at  Canton, 
in  which  the  Council  demanded  the  head  and  hand  of  their 
murdered  Governor,  and  Seu  required  in  return  three  Chinese 
soldiers,  (arrested  by  the  Portuguese  authorities  at  the  Barrier 
gate  after  the  murder,  and  detained  in  prison  at  Macao,  as 
accessory  to  the  deed,)  as  an  exchange  for  the  remains  of  the 
Governor.    The  Council  denounced  this  demand  as  infamous, 
denied  the  soldiers,  and  put  the  question  to  Seu,  if  he  in- 
tended to  keep  possession  of  these  mutilated  remains  of  a 
brave  man,  cowardly  slain,  because  he  is  conscious  of  having 
acquired  them  by  means  which,  in  his  judgment,  give  him  a 
right  to  traffic  with  them,  regardless  of  constituting  himself 
by  this  act  a  participator  in  the  crime  which  gave  them  into 
his  possession ;  also  adding,  that,  protesting  against  his  con- 
duct, they  would  hold  him  responsible  for  the  assassination 
of  the  Most  Excellent  Governor  Amaral,  and  for  the  reten- 
tion of  his  hand  and  head,  which  they  would  make  known  to 
the  world  by  means  of  a  manifesto. 

Seu  answered,  that  the  murderer  of  Amaral,  Shing-Chi- 
liang,  had  been  apprehended,  tried,  sentenced,  and  executed. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  49 

That  in  consequence  of  his  confession,  the  place  where  the 
head  and  hand  had  been  buried  was  discovered,  and  that  a 
deputed  officer  had  been  sent  to  deliver  them  up,  but  the 
council  still  detaining  the  three  soldiers  apprehended  at  the 
Barrier,  the  officer  did  not  dare  to  take  upon  himself  the 
responsibility,  and  concludes  his  dispatch,  with  true  Chinese 
sententiousness,  in  these  words  :  "  Here  is  the  cause  of  the 
delay  and  of  this  confusion.  All  things  should  be  managed 
with  reflection,  and  in  a  proper  way.  Obstinacy  cannot 
bring  affairs  to  a  conclusion,"  &c,  &c. 

Upon  the  29th  of  the  November  succeeding,  the  Council 
published  their  manifesto,  in  which  Seu  and  the  Chinese 
authorities  are  accused  of  connivance  in  the  murder  of  Ama- 
ral.  This,  Seu,  who  is  evidently  not  to  be  written  down, 
answers  by  accounting  for  the  disposal  of  the  murderer  of 
the  Governor,  and  his  accomplices,  and  sends  the  confession 
of  Chou-asin.  Matters  remained  in  this  position  until  the 
24th  of  December  of  the  same  year,  when  the  Macao  Coun- 
cil sent  the  three  Chinese  prisoners  to  Seu,  and  assuming 
that  these  men,  on  duty  at  the  time  at  the  Barrier,  were  at 
least  cognizant  of  the  murder  of  Amaral,  demand  their  trial, 
informing  Seu  at  the  same  time,  that  in  placing  them  in  his 
hands,  they  hold  him  responsible  for  them.  When  Seu  had 
obtained  these  men,  after  some  delay,  he  sends  the  head  and 
hand,  which  were  delivered  to  a  commission  appointed  by 
the  Council  to  receive  them,  on  board  a  Lorcha,  off  the 
Praya  Grande.  They  were  conveyed  to  the  cathedral,  and 
after  funeral  service  had  been  performed,  placed  in  consecrat- 
ed ground  with  solemn    ceremony.     Thus   His   Excellency 


50  Kathay: 

Governor-General  Sen  gained  his  point.  What  became  of 
the  three  Chinamen  I  did  not  learn,  but  suppose  they  were 
allowed  to  escape. 

A  new  governor  was  commissioned  and  sent  out  in  the 
Portuguese  corvette  Don  Joas  Primero.  Pedro  Alexandrino 
da  Cunha,  captain  in  the  royal  navy,  reached  Macao  on  the 
second  of  May,  1850,  and  immediately  assumed  the  reins 
of  government. 

It  was  now  supposed  that  something  more  efficacious 
than  writing  would  be  resorted  to ;  but  he  died  very  sud- 
denly on  the  sixth  of  July  following,  within  about  one 
month  before  the  anniversary  of  the  assassination  of  his  pre- 
decessor.    A  singular  coincidence. 

Some  have  been  bold  enough  to  assert  that  his  sudden 
demise  was  to  be  attributed  to  the  effects  of  poison  adminis- 
tered by  Chinese  servants,  bribed  by  their  government,  but 
I  think  that  the  report  of  his  death  from  cholera  is  correct. 

After  the  death  of  Da  Cunha,  the  administration  of  gov- 
ernment devolved  again  upon  the  "Council,"  of  which  D. 
Jeronimo  Joze  de  Matta,  Bishop  of  the  Province,  was  the 
head,  assisted  by  a  Chief  Justice,  Mayor,  Judge,  Procurator, 
and  Fiscal. 

This  was  not  very  popular,  as  what  government  can  be, 
to  a  declining  people,  who  will  not  exert  themselves,  but 
complain  to  Hercules,  without  putting  their  own  shoulders 
to  the  wheel.   • 

The  walks  in  the  neighborhood  of  Macao  are  pleasant, 
and  the  views  very  fine ;  among  the  best  are  those  from 
Penha  hill  on  the  southern  point  of  the  peninsula,  and  Guia 


A    Cruise    in    the    China   Seas.         51 

fort  on  its  northern  side.  From  the  latter  position  the 
entire  possessions  of  this  Portuguese  province  can  be  com- 
prised at  a  glance,  and  Macao  lies  beneath  you  a  miniature 
city,  with  pigmies  moving  along  the  Praya  and  its  principal 
streets.  This  fort,  from  its  commanding  position,  is  used  as 
a  telegraphic  station,  and  news  of  any  unusual  event  is  com- 
mimicated  to  the  town  by  signals. 

From  its  elevated  ramparts  the  eye  takes  in  the  course 
of  the  Hong-shan,  or  "  Broadway ;"  Casa  Branca  ;  Ilha  Ver- 
da ;  Camoen's  grotto ;  the  Barrier  and  Barrier  forts  ;  the  har- 
bors, both  inner  and  outer ;  the  Lapa  hills,  and  numerous 
islands,  as  far  as  it  can  reach. 

Camoen's  grotto  is  situated  on  an  eminence  within  the 
grounds  of  a  Portuguese  gentleman,  Senhor  L.  Marques, 
which,  without  the  attraction  which  would  draw  one  to  the 
poet's  place  of  meditation,  are  themselves  well  worthy  of  a 
visit. 

I  went  there  in  company  with  some  Peruvian  gentlemen, 
and  was  at  first  doubtful  of  the  propriety  of  trespassing 
upon  private  property,  but  my  scruples  being  overcome  by 
my  curiosity,  and  the  assurance  of  one  of  the  Peruvians  that 
his  acquaintance  with  the  Senhor  Marques  would  be  a  suf- 
ficient passport,  we  proceeded. 

Upon  passing  his  mansion,  and  sending  up  our  cards, 
learned  from  a  Coolie  of  the  absence  of  its  master,  and  enter- 
ed unhesitatingly  upon  his  grounds.  Descending  a  few  steps 
we  came  to  a  splendid  aviary  placed  in  the  centre  of  the 
avenue.  It  was  about  fifteen  feet  in  diameter  and  twenty 
in  height,  and  contained  quite  a  variety  of  beautiful  birds. 


52  Kathay: 

The  grounds  are  very  extensive,  covering  entirely  one  of 
the  hills  upon  which  Macao  is  built,  and  are  well  laid  out  in 
broad  smooth  avenues  fringed  with  rare  trees  and  shrubs,  but 

"  Each  walk  was  green  as  is  the  mantled  pool 
For  want  of  human  travel." 

After  walking  some  distance,  had  to  ascend  a  path,  whtch 
leading  along  a  dividing  wall,  brought  us  over  the  roofs  of 
the  Chinese  houses  in  the  town  below,  and  reminded  us  of 
the  position  of  "  Le  diable  boiteux"  of  Le  Sage,  although  I 
doubted  if  we  could  have  gained  as  much  information  as 
that  personage  did,  had  we  possessed  his  powers.  From 
this  part  of  the  garden  is  a  fine  view  of  the  inner  harbor 
and  the  Praya  Manduco.  Still  ascending,  upon  the  highest 
point  found  Camoen's  grotto.  It  had  originally  been  an 
arched  rock,  but  part  of  the  arch  giving  way,  has  been  wall- 
ed into  a  square  enclosure,  in  which  a  pedestal  of  corres- 
ponding proportions  has  been  placed  which  sustains  a  bust 
of  the  great  Portuguese  poet.  Upon  tablets  set  in  the 
four  sides  of  the  pedestal  are  inscribed  appropriate  verses 
from  his  poem — the  Lusiad ;  whilst  in  another  place  upon  a 
stone  set  in  the  rock,  is  an  epitaph  in  the  French  language, 
but  the  most  appropriate  sentiment  was  expressed  in  this 
couplet  pencilled  on  the  side  of  the  grotto : 

"  Sad  poet !  'twas  thy  fate,  alas,  to  be 
Not  less  the  child  of  fame  than  misery." 

Another  poet  degenerated  into  doggerel,  and  desecrated 
the  spot  by  the  following  impromptu,  which,  as  he  had  the 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  53 

delicacy  not  to  scribble  on  Camoen's  Cave,  I  transcribe  for 

his  benefit. 

• 

"  Oh,  clear  Camoens  !  what  a  time  you  had 
Bounding  '  the  Cape'  to  write  the  Lusiad  : 
But  you  got  fame,  and  I  should  have  some  too, 
For  didn't  I  come  round  the  Cape  as  well  as  you  ? 
So,  if  you  now  in  glowing  numbers  shine, 
Did  I  not  right  (?)  when  twice  I've  crossed  the  Line  ? 
But  keep  your  laurels,  poet,  any  how 
Your  song  is  sad — 'twas  written  at  Macao." 


*o 


The  spot  was  well  chosen  for  meditation,  and  imagina- 
tion carried  me  back  to  the  time  when  the  exiled  child  of 
genius  was  seated  here,  and  "  gave  to  airy  nothing  a  local 
habitation  and  a  name." 

Returning,  as  we  passed  a  house  occupied  by  a  China- 
man who  had  supervision  of  the  grounds,  one  of  the  party 
lighted  his  cheroot  from  a  joss  stick  burning  before  the  Chi- 
naman's joss,  and  was  reminded  of  a  certain  Prometheus, 
who  in  olden  times  was  said  to  have  filched  fire  from  the 
heathen  deities,  but  for  a  nobler  purpose,  and  having  been 
convicted  of  this  flaming  larceny,  had  for  his  punishment 
"  the  Vulture  and  the  Rock,"  which  fate  I  deprecated  for 
my  friend  ;  although  should  he  remain  long  in  this  climate, 
I  could  not  answer  for  the  state  of  his  liver. 

Poor  fellow  !  little  did  I  then  think  so  soon  to  hear  of 
his  death.  A  few  months  after  he  was  murdered  in  a  revolt 
of  Coolies  on  board  a  ship  in  which  he  was  returning  to  Peru. 


54  K  ath  a  y: 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Up  the  Canton  River  again— Bay  of  Canton— Bocca  Tigris— Forts  at  the  Bogue— 
Their  Construction — Conduct  of  Chinese  when  Attacked — The  Feast  of  Lan- 
terns— the  Rebellion — Paddy  Fields  and  Mosquitoes — Back  to  Typa— Pleasant 
Times— Blowing  up  of  a  Frigate ! 

A  REBELLION  had  broken  out  in  the  province  adjoining 
that  of  Kwang-tung  ;  and  as  the  insurgents  had  made 
rapid  advances  towards  the  capital,  our  consul  there  thought 
our  presence  in  the  neighborhood  might  prove  beneficial  to 
American  interests.  It  was  again,  "  All  hands  up  anchor,"  to 
proceed  up  the  Canton  River,  and  away  we  steered,  past  the 
towering  island  of  Lin-tin,  towards  the  Bocca  Tigris. 

Macao  may  be  said  to  be  situated  in  the  Bay  of  Canton ; 
for  these  are  all  islands  until  you  pass  through  the  "  Bogue." 

Bocca  Tigris  was  the  name  given  to  the  eastern  channel 
of  the  entrance  to  the  Pearl,  or  Canton  River, — a  near  trans- 
lation of  the  Chinese  name  Hoo-tow-mun  (Tiger's  Head  Pas- 
sage).    The  pilots  call  it  Foo-mun. 

There  is  a  fort  on  Anunghoy  Point,  and  two  others  on 
the  western  channel  on  the  North  Wang-tong  island ;  also 
the  office  of  Hoppo,  Collector  of  Customs,  where  pilots  are 
forced  to  show  their  "  chops." 

There  are  also  quite  a  number  of  Chinese  forts  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  "  Bogue ;"  but  they  did  not  appear  to 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  55 

be  manned,  although  quite  a  number  of  old  rusty  guns  were 
sticking  through  their  embrasures. 

Some  of  these  forts  are  very  extensive;  that  is,  their 
walls  enclose  a  considerable  area ;  but  they  are  badly  con- 
structed as  places  of  defence,  having  a  greater  part  of  their 
interior  exposed,  which  cannot  be  helped,  as  their  walls 
mostly  run  up  the  sides  of  steep  hills,  in  which  no  excava- 
tions have  been  made.  They  present,  however,  quite  a  pic- 
turesque appearance,  and  add  greatly  to  the  effect  of  this 
otherwise  uninteresting  part  of  the  river. 

Many  amusing  tales  are  told  of  the  conduct  of  their  de- 
fenders when  the  British  vessels  attacked  them ;  and  how, 
when  a  shell  was  thrown  into  them,  the  Chinamen  scattered  in 
every  direction,  through  their  ports,  and  every  other  availa- 
ble means  of  exit,  exclaiming,  "  Ei-yah,  how  can  make  shoot 
two  time  ?" 

Went  up  again  to  Canton,  to  the  Consulate,  and  learned 
there  that  the  rebels  had  not  advanced  much  farther,  having 
stopped  to  plunder,  whilst  Seu,  the  Governor-General,  was 
preparing  a  large  force  to  oppose  them.  Found  great  prepa- 
rations making  for  a  festival,  which  my  duties  did  not  allow 
me  to  see,  but  which  those  who  witnessed  it  described  as 
truly  magnificent.  They  called  it  the  Feast  of  Lanterns. 
From  what  I  saw  have  no  doubt  but  that  it  must  have  been 
so  at  night,  when  the  immense  number  of  chandeliers,  can- 
delabra, lanterns,  and  other  arrangements  for  making  an  illu- 
mination, were  lighted. 

There  were  also  images  as  large  as  life  stuck  over  the 
gates  of  different  streets,  and  upon  platforms  crossing  them, 


50  Kathay: 

with  paintings  of  movable  figures  strung  across  them,  Sing- 
Song  houses,  &c.  &c.  If  you  add  to  this  an  immense  multi- 
tude of  fantastically-dressed  Chinamen,  each  carrying  a 
lighted  lantern  richly  ornamented,  the  coup  d'ceil  will  be 
better  imagined  than  I  can  describe. 

The  celebration  was  kept  up  three  nights,  and  the  crowd' 
assembled  was  immense ;  so  great,  indeed,  that  those  who 
were  enabled  to  gratify  their  curiosity  did  so  with  much 
wear  and  tear  of  clothing,  and  considerable  loss  of  but- 
tons. 

In  the  meanwhile  the  valiant  Seu  had  started  to  chastise 
the  insolent  disturbers  of  the  peace  of  the  "  Central  Flowery 
Land ;"  and  being  determined  to  expedite  his  work,  took  with 
him  a  high  and  learned  judge,  to  condemn  the  vagabonds, 
and  doubtless  executioners  to  dispose  of  them. 

We  remained  in  Whampoa  Reach,  awaiting  the  issue, 
amidst  the  delightful  odors  of  decaying  paddy  fields,  and 
lulled  to  rest  by  the  harmonious  music  of  myriads  of  mos- 
quitoes. 

During  this  grand  convulsion  of  the  Chinese  empire,  it 
was  delightful  to  notice  the  regularity  with  which  our  Chi- 
nese compradore,  Ayooke,  supplied  the  ship  with  provisions, 
and  how  little  he  appeared  to  know  or  care  about  the  matter. 
I  thought  him  then  a  great  philosopher,  but  changed  my 
opinion  when  I  learned  that  these  affairs  are  of  common 
occurrence  in  the  Chinese  empire,  especially  at  the  com- 
mencement of  a  new  reign,  and  that  the  authorities  know  as 
well  how  to  manage  them,  as  police  officers  to  put  down  a 
row  in  Ann  Street,  Boston ;  and  even  better,  for  they  have  a 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.         57 

golden  remedy,  which  long  experience  has  taught  them  how 
to  apply. 

After  remaining  one  month  at  Whampoa,  and  a  large 
proportion  of  the  crew  getting  on  the  sick-list,  we  were  at 
length  allowed  to  leave  for  our  old  anchorage  in  the  Typa, 
where  we  learned  that  the  puissant  Sen,  his  generals,  and  his 
judges,  had  quenched  the  revolt,  and  the  misguided  wretch- 
es, whom  he  had  in  pity  spared,  were  sorrowfully  retracing 
their  steps.  But  one  thing  I  noticed  in  his  extended  and 
flowery  report,  that  quite  a  number  of  his  officers  were  de- 
graded, and  heavy  fines  imposed  upon  them  for  alleged  mis- 
conduct; thus  proving  in  China,  as  throughout  the  world, 
that  the  larger  fish  consume  the  smaller  fry,  and  increase 
greatly  in  consequence. 

Found  the  change  of  position  very  agreeable,  the  fine 
bracing  air  from  the  sea  acting  like  a  charm  upon  the  inva- 
lids, and  driving  awa}'  those  wandering  minstrels,  the  mos- 
quitoes. Besides,  there  was  the  daily  trip  on  shore  in  the 
"  fast  boat,"  available  to  those  whose  duties  would  allow  it. 
The  pleasant  walk  along  the  "Praya,"  or  on  the  Govern- 
or's Road,  and  the  generally  delightful  sail  off  to  the  ship  at 
nine  o'clock,  on  some  of  those  beautiful  moonlight  evenings, 
when  with  but  a  gentle  breeze  to  waft  us  smoothly  over  the 
placid  waters,  we  could  recline  in  our  commodious  boat,  and 
puffing  the  mild  cheroot  (a  privilege  not  the  less  valued  be- 
cause it  was  later  than  the  regulations  permitted  smoking  on 
board),  we  looked  upon  those  gentle  beams,  and  thought 
kindly  of  those  friends  beneath  our  feet,  upon  whom  they 
might  fall  to-morrow,  "  wind  and  weather  permitting,"  and  a 
4 


58  K  A  T  H  A  y  : 

sweet  face  would  glisten  upon  us  from  the  undulating  wave, 
and  u  Boat  a-hoy !"  from  the  watchful  quartermaster  would 
bring  us  back  to  reality  and  the  ship ;  overboard  would  go 
our  magical  cheroot,  over  the  side  our  imaginative  self,  and 
having  duly  reported  the  important  fact  of  our  return  on 
board,  down  we  would  dive  through  the  steerage  hatch,  to 
conjure  up  again  in  dreams  the  dear  face  we  saw  in  the 
moonlighted  wave. 

Our  anchorage  in  the  Typa  was  the  same  we  had  occu- 
pied on  our  first  visit,  and  was  very  eligible,  being  protected 
by  Typa  island  from  the  sea.  Upon  the  point  of  this  island 
nearest  to  us  stood  a  fort,  named  after  the  island ;  and  a  little 
more  than  a  cable's  length  from  our  moorings  lay  the  Portu- 
guese frigate  Donna  Maria  Segunda,  of  thirty-eight  guns, 
commanded  by  Captain  Francisco  d'Assis  e  Silva. 

Affairs  had  been  pursuing  their  usual  routine,  when  upon 
the  evening  of  the  twenty-eighth  of  October  a  boat  boarded 
us  from  the  frigate,  under  charge  of  an  officer,  who  brought 
an  invitation  from  Captain  D'Assis  to  join  with  him  on  the 
twenty-ninth  in  the  celebration  of  the  birthday  of  the  King 
Consort  of  Portugal,  upon  which  occasion  it  was  his  intention 
to  dress  his  ship,  and  fire  a  national  salute  at  meridian.  Of 
course,  an  assent  was  given  ;  and  accordingly  at  eight  o'clock 
the  next  morning,  every  thing  having  been  previously  pre- 
pared, we  broke  stops  with  the  frigate,  and  thus  bedecked, 
both  vessels  made  a  gallant  show. 

We  had  dressed  perpendicularly,  whilst  she  had  her  flags 
fore  and  aft,  running  up  to  her  flying  jib-boom  from  the 
water,  and  down  to  the  gaff  on  her  mizzen.     The  frigate  had 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.         59 

been  newly  painted,  and  looked  upon  this  occasion  exceed- 
ingly well,  her  neat  appearance  being  the  subject  of  general 
remark. 

We  lay  thus,  side  by  side,  until  meridian,  when  she  fired 
a  well-timed  salute,  in  which  we  joined ;  and  every  thing  re- 
mained quiet,  until  about  twenty  minutes  past  two,  when  a 
report  was  heard  resembling  the  discharge  of  a  whole  broad- 
side of  double-shotted  guns,  and  a  shock  communicated  as 
though  we  had  received  their  contents. 

The  water  was  forced  through  the  air-ports,  splashed 
over  the  spar-deck,  and  dashed  down  the  hatches.  The  first 
and  general  impression  was,  that  the  frigate  had  fired  into  us. 
On  rushing  upon  deck,  nothing  could  be  distinguished,  for 
we  were  completely  enveloped  in  a  dense  cloud  of  flame  and 
smoke.  For  a  minute  or  two  nothing  could  be  determined. 
At  length  an  old  quartermaster  sung  out,  "  The  frigate  has 
blown  up  !"  I  ascended  the  poop,  and  lodking  towards  her 
moorings,  saw  all  that  remained  of  the  "  Donna  Maria  Se- 
gunda," — a  part  of  her  stern-frame,  just  above  water,  and 
burning.  Where  once  had  pointed  her  tall  spars,  so  proudly 
decked  with  the  flags  of  all  nations,  no  trace  remained.  She 
was  the  most  complete  wreck  that  could  be  imagined.  The 
water  was  covered  for  acres  with  her  fragments,  and  her 
masts  and  spars  were  shivered  to  splinters. 

Our  boats  were  instantly  alongside  the  wreck,  and  took 
from  it,  and  picked  out  of  the  water,  ten  persons  in  all,  of 
whom  two  were  Chinamen.  Amongst  these  was  the  young 
officer  who  had  boarded  us  the  previous  evening,  with  the 
invitation  to  join  in  the  celebration, — a  fine-looking  man.    He 


60  Kathay: 

had  been  drawn  from  under  the  capstan,  which  had  been 
blown  aft,  was  horribly  mutilated,  and  had  doubtless  nearly 
all  his  bones  broken,  besides  sustaining  internal  injuries.  He 
died  like  a  hero  upon  our  quarter-deck,  without  a  groan. 

The  crew  of  the  Donna  Maria  was  said  to  have  been 
composed  of  two  hundred  and  forty  souls ;  but  there  were 
some  sick  in  the  hospital  at  Macao,  and  a  few  absent  on 
leave  and  duty.  They  had,  however,  some  Chinese  on 
board,  not  mustered  as  the  crew,  carpenters,  and  other  arti- 
sans, and  some  prisoners  from  a  French  bark,  the  "  Chili." 
I  consider  the  number  killed  by  this  catastrophe  may  be 
fairly  set  down  as  two  hundred  ! 

The  commandant,  d'Assis,  perished  with  his  vessel.  His 
body  was  found  two  days  after,  dragging  astern,  he  having 
been  blown  through  the  stern  port,  and  caught  in  a  sail. 
His  remains  were  carried  to  Macao,  and  buried  with  military 
honors,  our  officers  assisting  at  the  ceremony.  His  son,  a 
young  Aspirante,  or  Midshipman,  was  ashore  at  the  time. 
A  lieutenant  was  in  charge  of  the  "  Typa  Fort,"  and  the  sur- 
geon in  Macao,  at  their  hospital.  The  other  officers  were 
principally  on  board  the  frigate. 

Our  commander,  with  others,  had  received  an  invitation 
to  dine  on  board,  but  the  time  had  been  fortunately  post- 
poned. 

At  the  precise  moment  of  the  explosion  on  board  the 
"  Donna  Maria,"  we  were  probably  as  near  as  it  would  have 
been  possible  to  have  been  in  our  relative  moorings,  lying 
broadside  on,  but  a  little  astern  of  her  ;  our  starboard  battery 
could  have  been  brought  to  bear  a  point  forward  of  the 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  61 

beam ;  and  this  very  proximity  was  doubtless  the  cause  of 
our  escaping  serious  injury.  Two  of  her  heavy  guns  passed 
entirely  over  us,  clearing  our  royal  masts,  and  falling  into 
the  water  about  twenty  feet  on  our  port  beam.  Our  main 
deck  awning  was  spotted,  as  if  a  shower  of  blood  had  passed 
over  it.  Some  shot,  pieces  of  lead,  fragments  of  spars,  and 
the  brains  and  entrails  of  the  sufferers  were  lodged  in  the 
tops,  and  other  parts  of  our  ship.  The  gig  was  stove,  but 
her  keeper  escaped  without  injury ;  another  boat-keeper  was 
not  so  fortunate,  an  iron  bolt  striking  him  on  the  knee,  and 
maiming  him  for  life. 

A  gun  carriage  was  thrown  past  us  into  the  fort,  breaking 
through  the  roof,  and  falling  directly  in  the  place  where 
an  officer  had  been  seated  writing,  but  a  few  moments  be- 
fore. 

After  the  explosion  a  number  of  smaller  ones  took  place, 
and  then  the  remains  of  the  ill-fated  frigate  burned  to  the 
water's  edge. 

Her  magazine  was  said  to  have  contained  eighteen  thou- 
sand  pounds  of  powder.  Three  hundred  barrels  of  sixty 
pounds  each,  for  which  orders  came  out  a  few  days  later,  to 
be  stowed  in  the  magazine  in  Macao,  and  the  frigate  to  pro- 
ceed to  Lisbon. 

The  disaster  was  attributed  to  design.  The  gunner  was 
said  to  have  fired  the  magazine  for  revenge. 

It  was  said  that  only  a  few  days  previous,  he  had  been 
severely  reprimanded  by  the  Captain,  for  some  neglect  of 
duty,  and  that  the  Captain  had  pulled  his  beard. 

Afterwards  he  told  his  messmates  that  he  could  not  sur- 


62  Kathay: 

vive  such  an  indignity,  that  he  was  an  old  man,  and  had 
not  long  to  live,  but  when  he  died,  others  should  die  too. 

This  is  the  way  the  Portuguese  account  for  the  loss  of  the 
vessel  and  her  crew. 

Out  of  all  those  picked  up,  but  one  survived  !  Our  own 
escape  can  only  be  attributed  to  the  protecting  hand  of  that 
Providence,  without  whose  knowledge  not  even  the  smallest 
sparrow  can  fall  to  the  ground  unnoticed. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.         63 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Visit  Hong-Kong— A  beautiful  Morning— Harbor  of  Hong-Kong— Settlement  of 
Victoria— Line-of-battle  ship  Hastings— Forecastle  logic — An  arrival  from  the 
Northern  Seas— Her  B.  M.  S.  Herald— Salutes— Description  of  Victoria — Club 
House— Health  of  Hong-Kong — Death  vacancies — Feasting  and  Fetes — Ball — 
Pic-Nic— Departure  from  Hong-Kong. 

A  VISIT  to  Hong-Kong  had  been  some  time  in  contem. 
plation,  and  accordingly  on  Friday  afternoon,  twenty-ninth 
of  November,  we  unmoored,  and  at  three  o'clock  on  Saturday 
morning,  weighed  the  remaining  anchor,  and  drifted  with  the 
ebb  towards  the  entrance  of  the  Typa,  but  sticking  fast  on  a 
mud  bank,  had  to  wait  for  the  next  tide,  which  luckily  bore 
us  off  on  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day,  when  we  got  out 
and  underway. 

Upon  one  of  the  most  beautiful  mornings  I  had  ever 
seen  in  this  climate,  Sunday,  the  first  of  December,  we  were 
approaching  Hong-Kong  harbor,  with  easy  tacks,  and  came 
to  anchor  off  the  town  at  noon. 

The  harbor  is  a  very  fine  one,  having  sufficient  depth  to 
float  vessels  of  the  largest  size,  which  is  indicated  by  its 
color,  being  of  a  beautiful  blue,  and  forming  a  strong  contrast 
to  that  of  the  Typa,  and  the  waters  around  Macao,  which  are 
discolored  by  the  debouchment  of  the  Canton  river. 


64  Kathay: 

It  is  very  wide,  and  commodious,  and  completely  locked 
by  islands,  making,  I  should  think,  a  safe  anchorage  in  the 
Tyfoong  season. 

Hong-Kong  is  also  an  island,  and  was  ceded  to  the  Brit- 
ish by  treaty  with  the  Chinese.  The  settlement  on  it  was 
called  Victoria,  but  is  generally  known  by  the  name  of  Hong- 
Kong  ;  in  fact,  I  believe  you  would  puzzle  some  persons  if 
you  should  call  it  by  the  former  name.  It  extends  over  much 
ground,  and  a  towering  mountain  in  its  rear,  upon  the  base 
of  which  a  portion  of  the  town  is  built,  has  quite  a  romantic 
appearance. 

Found  in  harbor  Her  British  Majesty's  line-of-battle  ship 
Hastings,  bearing  the  flag  of  Admiral  Austen,  and  a  number 
of  merchantmen  of  all  nations.  One,  which  lay  near  us, 
with  the  Peruvian  flag  at  her  gaff,  had  painted  upon  her 
stern,  "Iowa,  of  San  Francisco,"  and  I  overheard  a  conversa- 
tion between  two  of  the  men,  on  the  subject  of  the  apparent 
anomaly.  A  forecastleman,  addressing  a  petty  officer,  in- 
quired how  she  could  hail  from  San  Francisco,  then  belong- 
ing to  the  United  States,  and  fly  the  Peruvian  flag.  "  Why, 
look  ye,  you  nincompoop,"  was  the  reply,  "  can't  there  be 
more'n  one  Jack  Jones  on  the  purser's  books,  and  wherefore 
shouldn't  there  be  more  than  one  San  Francisco  in  the  chart 
of  the  world  ?  Doesn't  it  stand  to  reason,  seeing  it's  a  saint's 
name,  and  they're  all  Catholics  along  that  coast,  that  they 
should  have  a  Saint  Francisco  in  Peru  ?" 

This  reasoning  appeared  conclusive,  as  the  subject  was 
dropped.  But  afterwards  I  learned  that  she  had  been  pur- 
chased in  California,  and  in  a  few  days  her  nation  was  made 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.         65 

known,  by  the  word  Callao  filling  the  place  of  that  of  the 
Golden  City  on  her  stern :  allthough  her  owner  appeared  to 
regret  that  he  had  been  forced  to  change  her  flag,  as,  I  un- 
derstood, he  thought  he  could  have  done  better  in  an  Ameri- 
can bottom. 

Upon  the  afternoon  of  the  day  of  our  arrival,  H.  B.  M. 
ship  Herald  came  in  from  the  North  Seas,  on  her  return,  hav- 
ing been  six  years  out  from  England.  No  news  of  Sir  John 
Franklin.  Found  her  officers  a  fine,  gentlemanly  set,  in  ex- 
cellent health  and  spirits,  and  apparently  glad  of  a  chance  of 
thawing  out. 

On  Monday  saluted  the  Governor,  twenty-one  guns, 
which  was  returned  from  the  "  Murray  Battery,"  a  field  work 
on  shore,  gun  for  gun.  Afterwards  gave  the  Admiral  a  sa- 
lute of  thirteen  guns,  returned  by  the  "  Hastings"  with  fifteen. 
This  appears  to  be  a  British  Admiral's  salute,  although  we, 
having  no  such  rank  in  our  service,  are  not  allowed  to  give 
him  more  guns  than  we  give  to  our  highest  naval  officer,  viz., 
a  Commodore.  It  may  be  all  correct  and  proper,  considering 
we  have  no  corresponding  rank,  but  if  our  government  would 
only  view  the  matter  in  a  proper  light,  and  lay  aside  petty 
prejudice,  it  would  put  our  navy  officers  upon  a  par  with 
those  of  other  nations,  and  by  giving  them  a  rank,  if  only  in 
name,  entitle  them  to  the  same  honors  ! 

What  are  these  officers  but  representatives  of  our 
government  abroad,  and  how  are  foreign  nations  to  judge 
of  us,  but  through  the  weight  these  officers  bear  ?  Ap- 
pearances and  display  go  a  great  way  with  semi-civilized 

nations ! 

4* 


66  K  A  TH  A  Y  : 

But  I  tread  upon  ground  I  had  intended  to  avoid,  and 
must  step  back  to  a  more  neutral  point — my  narrative. 

After  saluting,  official  visits  were  paid  to  the  Governor  and 
Admiral,  and  I  took  an  opportunity  to  view  the  settlement. 

There  is  a  striking  difference  between  Macao  and  Victo- 
ria. Here  the  merchants  are  princes,  and  dwell  in  princely 
edifices ;  here  is  life  in  the  streets,  and  people  move  about  as 
if  they  had  an  object,  and  the  stranger  says  at  once,  "  Ah ! 
here  is  civilization !" 

It  is  true  he  may  not  witness  the  evidence  that  caused  an 
observing  traveller  to  make  such  an  exclamation  upon  com- 
ing to  a  gallows;  but  that  proof  may  not  be  wanting  that 
human  nature  requires  restraint  in  all  its  phases,  he  will  see 
patrols  of  policemen  with  loaded  clubs,  and  Sepoys,  having  a 
carbine,  or  small  rifle  slung  across  their  shoulders,  parading 
in  great  profusion. 

Another  difference  will  be  remarked  between  this  place 
and  Macao,  which  is,  whilst  Macao  presents  its  best  features 
in  approaching  it  from  seawards,  Victoria  makes  but  little  show 
from  the  water,  and  if  a  person  were  only  to  have  seen  it 
from  the  harbor,  he  would  set  it  down  as  a  very  inconsidera- 
ble place.  It  is  only  when  you  land,  and  after  walking  up 
one  of  the  narrow  slips,  you  pass  through  a  gate  into  the 
"  Queen's  Road,"  that  any  thing  can  be  seen  of  the  town.  It 
is  true,  as  I  have  before  stated,  that  some  fine  houses  may  be 
noticed  on  the  base  of  the  mountain,  but  upon  this  road,  the 
principal  portion  of  the  town  is  built,  and  that  cannot  be  seen 
from  the  water,  owing  to  the  houses  being  built  down  to  its 
edge,  having  their  entrances  from  the  "  Road." 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  67 

This  avenue  is  wide,  and  well  graded,  having  a  fine 
carnage  way  and  banquettes  for  pedestrians  on  either 
side. 

The  houses  are  mostly  built  of  a  beautiful  light-colored 
granite,  and  are  of  an  imposing  style  of  architecture.  For 
a  distance  of  nearly  two  miles  along  this  principal  thorough- 
fare, you  come,  every  few  rods,  upon  some  public  or  private 
building  that  would  do  credit  to  any  city.  There  are  large, 
commodious  barracks,  hospitals,  ordnance  storehouses,  inter- 
spersed with  the  dwellings  of  merchants,  all  built  of  this  solid- 
looking  building  material. 

But  the  pride  of  the  colony  should  be  its  club-house, 
which  is  the  finest  looking  building  in  the  place  of  its  style. 
It  is  very  extensive,  and  built  of  blocks  of  granite,  with  a 
splendid  front,  a  facade  supported  by  a  number  of  large 
granite  pillars ;  and  its  interior  arrangements  correspond  with 
its  external  appearance. 

Ascending  by  steps  from  the  street,  you  enter,  from  a  wide 
portico,  which  extends  along  the  entire  front,  upon  a  large 
open  hall,  in  which  are  entrances  to  different  apartments — 
billiard  rooms,  writing,  smoking,  and  general  reception  rooms, 
and  the  superintendent's  apartments.  Two  wide  flights  of 
stairs  bring  you  to  the  upper  story,  or  an  'premier^  as  the 
French  would  call  it. 

Here  are  a  suite  of  rooms,  extending  along  the  whole 
front,  in  which  are  newspapers  from  all  parts  of  the  world, 
materials  and  tables  for  writing,  and  all  kinds  of  couches,  di- 
vans, &c,  for  lounging.  You  can  step  from  these  rooms  upon 
a  magnificent  balcony,  corresponding  with  the  porch  below, 


68  Kathay: 

where  you  can  enjoy  such  refreshments  as  you  may  be  pleas- 
ed to  order,  alfresco  if  you  choose. 

Another  large  apartment  is  used  as  a  restaurant,  and  in 
another  place  is  a  fine  library.  Upon  the  floor  above  are 
sleeping  apartments,  baths,  &c,  and  the  attic  furnishes  rooms 
for  coolies  and  attendants. 

Through  the  attention  of  our  consul,  we  had  the  entree 
and  use  of  this  desirable  place,  and  never  did  tired  traveller 
enjoy  the  friendly  welcome  of  an  inn,  after  a  weary  journey, 
more  than  I  did  this  hall  of  ease.  Like  the  dove,  I  had  found 
a  resting-place  from  the  waste  of  waters,  and  loth,  very  loth 
was  I  to  return  to  my  home  upon  the  deep. 

With  all  its  attractions,  however,  Victoria  will  never  be- 
come a  desirable  place  of  residence,  on  account  of  its  insalu- 
brity. Macao  has  very  much  the  advantage  over  it  in  this 
respect,  as  indeed  in  every  other,  where  natural  causes  are 
considered;  and  never  was  the  difference  between  races 
so  apparent  as  in  the  position  and  condition  of  these  two 
settlements  in  China. 

It  cannot  but  be  sickly  in  Hong-Kong  in  the  summer 
season,  and  without  entering  into  explanations  of  the  cause, 
I  merely  state  the  fact,  that  during  the  summer  of  1850, 
more  than  one-third  of  Her  Majesty's  fifty-ninth  regiment 
were  cut  off  by  diseases  incident  to  the  climate.  And  the 
remark  of  an  officer  attached  to  Her  Majesty's  service,  that 
it  was  a  fine  place  for  death  vacancies,  has  more  truth  than 
poetry  in  it,  I  trow. 

We  were  feted  and  feasted  here  to  our  heart's  content. 
Among  those  who  were  most  forward  to  do  us  honor,  1 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.         69 

must  mention  our  own  Consul,  and  Mr.  Burd,  Consul  of  the 
Swedish  government.  These  gentlemen,  who  did  us  so 
much  good,  need  hardly  blush  for  this  publicity  of  their 
deeds. 

The  officers  of  the  Hastings  gave  a  grand  ball,  to  which 
our  officers  were  invited,  whilst  the  "  Heralds"  proved  by 
their  kind  attentions  that  their  cruise  in  the  hyperborean  re- 
gions of  the  North,  had  in  nowise  chilled  the  warm  current 
of  their  hearts. 

A  pic-nic  had  been  gotten  up  for  the  eighteenth  of  De- 
cember, but  the  arrival  of  the  mail  on  that  day  prevented 
many  from  attending,  who  would  otherwise  have  been  glad 
to  have  explored  the  island  in  pleasant  company.  As  we 
only  waited  for  our  letters,  as  soon  as  they  were  received 
we  were  forced  to  bid  a  reluctant  adieu  to  hospitable  Hong- 
Kong. 


70  Kathay: 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

China— Limited  opportunities— The  Chinese  nation  compared  with  others— Its 
antiquity — Magnitude  of  territory  and  practicability  of  laws— Supposed  origin  of 
the  Chinese— Fables  of  their  early  writers— Explanation  of  their  exaggerations 
— Foundation  of  the  Empire — Chinese  traditions  compared  with  sacred  history 
— Similarity  of  events — Wise  men  of  the  East — Introduction  of  Buddhism — Arts 
and  Sciences — The  Magnetic  Needle — Discovery  of  Gunpowder — Origin  of  the 
name — China — Che-Hwang-te,  King  of  Tsin — Parallel  between  him  and  Napo- 
leon—Religion— Confucius— The  Taouists — Buddhism— A  Buddhist's  idea  of 
Heaven. 

A  CHAPTER  descriptive  of  China  may  not  inappropri- 
ately fill  up  a  period,  during  which  I  was  ill  and  con- 
valescent at  Macao ;  although,  for  a  person  situated  as  I 
was,  the  attempt  to  describe  the  character  of  a  people,  cov- 
ering such  an  extensive  portion  of  the  globe  (having  only 
had  a  peep  at  them  through  a  few  of  their  outermost  ports, 
and  these  considerably  Europeanized),  is  somewhat  like  the 
efforts  of  one  to  give  an  idea  of  Saint  Peter's  at  Rome,  after 
a  single  glimpse  through  its  portals. 

However,  I  may  venture  to  speak  of  these  people  from 
what  I  have  seen,  fully  aware  that  plenty  of  more  potential 
pens,  held  by  persons  who  have  lived  longer  among  them, 
and  penetrated  their  country  to  a  greater  extent  than  I  shall 
ever  be  able  to  do,  have  given  their  peculiarities  to  the 
public. 


A  Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  71 

Another  difficulty  prevents  a  better  knowledge  of  their 
forms  and  systems,  and  that  is  ignorance  of  their  language, 
and  the  disposition  of  those  with  whom  one  can  communicate 
to  mislead  and  misinform  the  inquirer.  For  much  as  their 
interests  may  lead  them  to  pretend  to  it,  they  really  have 
but  little  respect  for  the  "  outside  barbarian." 

The  Chinese  are,  not  only  numerically  but  comparatively, 
a  great  people,  and  their  government  (the  oldest  now  known) 
a  marvel  and  a  wonder.  As  a  nation,  they  have  consist- 
ently carried  on  their  system,  whilst  other  congregations  of 
people,  arising  successively  upon  the  sea  of  Time,  have 
spent  their  force  and  dashed  their  sparkling  particles  upon 
the  shores  of  Oblivion.  They,  like  the  ocean,  though  occa- 
sionally vexed  by  storms  and  convulsions,  still  cover  the  ex- 
panse allotted  to  them. 

The  Egyptian,  who  held  the  Jew  captive,  became  himself 
a  slave.  The  "  people  of  God,"  who  broke  through  and  dis- 
placed the  nations  of  the  plain,  vainly  opposing  their  passage 
to  the  promised  land,  themselves  at  last  dispersed,  sought 
refuge  throughout  the  world ;  when  the  "  Holy  City"  Jeru- 
salem became  in  turn  a  prey  to  the  Roman.  And  Rome, 
the  mistress  of  the  world !  Rome,  too,  was  blotted  from  the 
list  of  nations. 

An  empire,  which,  extending  from  ninety-eight  to  one 
hundred  and  twenty-three  degrees  of  east  longitude,  and 
eighteen  to  forty-two  north  latitude ;  bounded  on  the  north  by 
Russia  and  Siberia,  on  the  east  by  the  great  Pacific  Ocean ; 
south  by  the  islands  (many  of  them  independent  powers) 
which  fill  the  China  Sea,  and  disconnect  it  from  the  Indian 


12  Kathay: 

Ocean;  and  westward  by  the  independent  Tartar  nations, 
covering  with  its  dependent  provinces  an  area  of  five  millions 
of  square  miles,  of  which  only  about  one-fourth  is  included 
within  the  geographical  limits  of  China  proper,  governs,  at 
the  present  time,  a  population  of  four  hundred  millions  of 
souls  (a  proportion  of  one-third  of  the  estimated  inhabitants 
of  the  globe),  with  a  code  of  laws  which  has  been  handed 
down  from  the  earliest  ages  of  which  we  have  a  knowledge. 

Situated  on  a  continent,  supposed  to  have  been  selected 
by  the  Creator  as  the  spot  on  which  to  place  the  first  of  the 
human  race ;  upon  which,  as  is  told  in  holy  writ,  at  the  Di- 
vine command,  light  first  burst  upon  the  world,  it  is  singular 
that  this  part  of  Asia  should  so  long  have  remained  in  dark- 
ness, and  that  even  now  conjecture  loses  itself  in  searching  for 
the  origin  of  this  peculiar  people. 

If  we  take  the  first  book  of  the  Pentateuch  for  our  guide, 
we  must  come  to  the  conclusion,  that  in  the  confusion  of 
tongues  at  the  building  of  Babel,  when  the  Lord  said,  as  is 
described  in  the  eleventh  chapter  of  that  book,  "  Let  us  go 
down  and  there  confound  their  language,  so  that  they  may 
not  understand  one  another's  speech ;"  "  and  from  thence  the 
Lord  did  scatter  them  abroad  upon  the  face  of  the  earth ;" 
that  this  nation  formed  a  portion  of  those  presumptuous 
builders,  who,  in  their  migrations,  settled  down  upon  the 
banks  of  the  Yellow  River,  and  there  multiplying,  gradually 
peopled  this  vast  surface. 

Their  early  traditions,  indeed,  appear  to  extend  beyond 
the  period  of  the  flood,  and  from  these  the  "  dark  idolater  of 
chance,"  who  would  rejoice  to  prove  that  "  Book  of  Books"  a 


A    Cruise   in    the    China    Seas.         73 

splendid  fable,  draws  his  deductions.  But  how  he  fails. 
The  learned  men  of  China,  those  held  in  the  greatest  repute 
amongst  a  people  where  such  a  reputation  is  not  easily  ob- 
tained, themselves  admit,  that  the  history  of  their  empire  in 
its  infancy,  is,  for  the  most  part,  apocryphal,  and  that  the 
myths  of  these  early  writers  are  only  to  be  considered  as  such, 
and  are  not  to  affect  its  chronology. 

Indeed,  the  character  of  the  language,  when  it  refers  to 
superior  powers,  has  such  a  tendency  to  exaggeration,  as  to 
afford  great  facilities  to  those  who  would  construe  it  to  suit 
this  particular  purpose.* 

The  Chinese  historians  speak  of  their  Celestial  Emperor, 
who  reigned  forty-five  thousand  years !  They  also  name  a 
Terrestrial  Emperor,  whose  reign  extended  eighteen  thousand 
years  !  And  they  had,  in  addition,  a  Human  Emperor,  who 
occupied  the  throne  for  the  same  period,  in  succession.  There 
is  then  their  fabulous  period,  which  commences  with  the  cre- 
ation of  man,  when  Pwan-Koo  (First  Man)  was  produced. 
After  which  the  Celestial  Emperor,  Teen- Hwang-She,  "  Impe- 
rial Heaven,"  settled  the  years,  taking  eighteen  thousand  years 

*  One  of  the  causes  which  have  led  the  Chinese  themselves  into 
great  errors  with  regard  to  the  ancient  state  of  their  country,  is  the 
having  given  to  their  ancient  characters  the  acceptations  which  they 
did  not  acquire  until  later  times. 

The  characters  which  are  now  translated  by  the  words  emperor, 
province,  city,  palace,  meant  no  more  in  former  times  than  the  chief 
of  a  tribe,  a  district,  a  camp,  a  house.  These  simple  meanings  did  not 
flatter  their  vanity  sufficiently,  and  they  therefore  preferred  employ- 
ing terms  which  would  represent  their  ancestors  as  rich  and  power- 
ful, and  their  empire  vast  and  flourishing  in  the  first  year  of  its  foun- 
dation as  if  by  magic. — M.  de  Guignes1  Littera. 


74  Kathay: 

to  perform  this  task.  Succeeded  by  Te-Hwang-She,  "  Royal 
Earth," — who  is  said  to  have  devoted  the  same  period  to  fix 
the  months.  After  Royal  Earth  comes  Jin-Hwang-She, — "  Sov- 
ereign Man," — who  divided  the  land,  and  was  forty-five  thou- 
sand years  about  it. 

Following  the  string  of  their  traditions,  we  come  down  to 
two  thousand  three  hundred  and  fifty-six  years  before  Christ, 
when  was  founded  the  first  dynasty, — that  of  Te-yaou, — ac- 
cording to  their  chronology,  Hea  being  Emperor,  or  Chief,  as 
De  Guignes  rationally  supposes.  This  is  about  the  time  of 
the  dispersion  of  the  human  family,  and,  I  think,  the  proper 
date  for  the  birth  of  this  nation.  Let  that  be  as  it  may,  there  is 
a  great  similarity  between  their  traditions  and  our  sacred 
record.  Their  first  man  was  produced  by  superior  power, 
and  was  placed  over  the  inferior  animals. 

In  the  reign  of  Te-yaou  there  was  an  account  of  a  great 
flood.  Shortly  after,  wine  was  discovered,  and  its  intoxicat- 
ing effects  found  out  in  the  reign  of  Fohi,  who  answers  the 
description  of  Noah.  Then  came  a  prince  noted  for  his 
fondness  for  hunting,  who  was  contemporary  with  Nimrod. 
And  there  was  a  seven  years'  drought,  like  that  described  in 
Genesis,  ch.  xli. 

Another  singular  coincidence  in  their  chronology,  which 
I  may  be  allowed  to  refer  to  before  dismissing  this  part  of 
the  subject,  is  the  fact  set  down  by  one  of  their  historians, 
that  in  the  fifty-fifth  year  of  the  forty-fifth  cycle,  the  Empe- 
ror Ming-te,  in  about  the  tenth  year  of  his  reign,  sent  mes- 
sengers to  look  for  "  the  holy  man  of  the  West."  Now  this 
period  corresponds  with  the  commencement  of  the  Christian 


A    Cruise    in    the   China    Seas.         75 

era :  and  allowing  for  discrepancies  unavoidable  in  such  a 
calculation,  could  it  not  have  been  possible  that  a  faint  glim- 
mering of  the  "  Star  of  Bethlehem"  had  crossed  this  mon- 
arch's vision,  and  that,  but  for  their  dilatory  footsteps,  these 
ambassadors  of  the  Chinese  Emperor  might  have  knelt  by 
the  side  of  those  other  "  wise  men  of  the  East,"  who  were 
guided  by  its  beams  to  the  cradle  of  the  infant  Saviour  ? 
Certain  it  is,  that  Buddhism  was  introduced  into  China  about 
that  time,  and  that  this  ruler  felt  the  need  of  a  holy  man,  as 
if  by  inspiration ! 

The  Chinese  appear  rapidly  to  have  progressed  in  the 
arts,  and  to  have  been  foremost  in  all  those  inventions,  which 
in  their  application  have  conduced  so  much  to  the  ameliora- 
tion and  welfare  of  the  human  race.  Eleven  hundred  and 
eight  years  before  we  commence  to  count  our  era  (b.  c. 
1108,)  the  unerring  magnet  that  points  so  steadily  to  the 
pole,  was  discovered  by  this  ingenious  people  ;  and  who  may 
say  what  other  progress  may  have  been  made  in  science  and 
literature  up  to  b.  c.  220,  when  the  cruel  and  ambitious 
Che-Hwang-te,  who,  having  finished  the  Great  Wall,  and 
wishing  to  date  the  foundation  of  his  empire  from  his  reign, 
collected  and  burned  all  such  records  as  he  could  obtain,  and 
destroyed  by  a  cruel  death  the  wise  men  within  his  do- 
minions.* 

Since  then,  at  a  very  early  part  of  the  Christian  era,  they 
are  known  to  have  made  a  representative  of  money  in  the 

*  This  presumption  was  overruled  by  an  all-wise  Providence,  by 
the  subsequent  discovery  of  some  books  of  Confucius  in  repairing  an 
old  house. — Montgomery  Martin. 


16  Kathay: 

shape  of  paper,*  and  a  stamp  duty  was  imposed  upon  the 
sale  of  lands  (a.  d.  369).  Shortly  after,  learning  became 
much  cherished ;  literary  men  rose  to  dignities  and  honor, 
and  colleges  were  endowed  in  different  parts  of  the  empire. 

Types  had  been  invented  some  time  in  the  early  part  of 
the  ninth  century ,f  and  the  art  of  book-binding  was  known 
as  early  as  a.  d.  *750.J  The  application  of  Gunpowder  as  a 
projectile  was  made  in  1225  ;  and  the  invention  of  the  Loom 
is  dated  a  few  years  later. 

The  name,  China,  is  derived  from  'Tsin ;  and  it  became 
known  by  this  name  to  the  other  nations  of  the  world  through 
the  ambition  of  Che-Hwang-te,  before  mentioned,  who  as- 
sumed the  title  of  King  of  'Tsin ;  and  who,  if  he  was  cruel, 
appears  to  have  been  also  able  and  talented.  He  not  only 
enlarged  and  extended  the  empire,  but  what  was  gained  to 
it  he  consolidated  and  strengthened.  The  Great  Wall  was 
not  the  only  monument  of  his  reign.  Splendid  roads  afford- 
ed facilities  for  trade,  which  he  greatly  encouraged.  Over- 
flown lands  were  redeemed,  and  stagnant  and  unwholesome 
marshes  became,  by  the  magic  of  his  mind,  fertile  and 
healthy  plains.  His  capital  was  enlarged  and  beautified, 
and  employment  given  by  his  great  works  to  thousands  who 
else  had  starved.  As  he  was  the  greatest,  so  was  he  the  last 
of  his  dynasty ;  for  it  ended  in  the  death  of  his  son,  but  a 

*  Anno  Domini  297.  • 

+  Anno  Domini  924. 

%  The  Chinese  made  paper  about  350  years  before  Christ;  and 
Confucius,  about  a  century  before,  wrote  his  admirable  maxims  on  a 
bamboo,  with  a  stylus. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  YY 

short  time  after  his  own  demise,  and  a  new  dynasty, — that  of 
Han, — was  erected  upon  its  ruins ;  thus  destroying  plans  for 
the  furtherance  of  which  much  blood  had  been  shed. 

There  is  a  strong  parallel  between  the  life  and  fate  of 
this  monarch  and  that  of  the  Emperor  Napoleon.  Both 
of  humble  origin,*  each  made  himself  a  name,  and 
from  each  a  name  descended  to  his  country.  Under  the 
influence  of  that  insanity  of  great  minds, — Ambition, — each 
filled  the  world  with  his  reflected  glory,  and  each  failed  in 
his  dearest  and  most  cherished  wish,  the  perpetuation  of  his 
name  through  his  offspring.  Much  good  did  either  do,  but 
in  the  prosecution  of  the  plans  of  each,  much  innocent  blood 
was  spilled.     They  both  were  great !     Was  either  good  ? 

The  name  of  Kathay,  or  Cathay,  was  applied  to  this 
country  by  ancient  writers,  among  whom  was  Marco  Polo,  a 
Venetian,  who  was  about  the  first  who  penetrated  its  bounda- 
ries. I  have  assumed  it,  therefore,  as  a  title,  as  much  from 
its  antiquity  as  for  its  euphony. 

When  one  would  speak  of  the  religious  institutions  of 
China,  he  is  indeed  in  the  position  of  the  person  named  in 
the  commencement  of  this  chapter.  There  appears  to  be 
three  systems  of  religions,  viz.,  that  of  Confucius,  the  system 
of  Laou-tze,  and  that  of  Buddha.  But  when  you  attempt 
to  find  out  his  belief,  a  Chinaman  is  very  apt  to  confound 
you  with  a  part  of  each  doctrine,  and  it  is  only  by  much 
sifting  that  you  can  come  at  his  real  sentiments.  The  supe- 
rior men  of  China  affect  the  doctrines  of  the  two  first-named 

*  The  mother  of  Che-Hwang-te  had  been  a  concubine  of  a  mer- 
chant of  Ho-nan. 


78  Kathay: 

philosophers,  whilst  the  dark  and  ambiguous  creed  of  Buddha 
obtains  with  the  lower  classes. 

The  system  of  Confucius  is  well  known  to  the  general 
reader.  It  is  an  excellent  code  of  morals.  He  advocates  a 
control  over  the  passions,  and  a  proper  management  of  the 
affections,  and  comes  as  near  as  he  can  to  the  rule  laid  down 
in  the  New  Testament,  "  to  do  to  others,  as  we  would  have 
others  do  unto  us."  His  virtues  are  benevolence,  righteous- 
ness, politeness,  (!)  wisdom  and  truth.  Filial  piety  is  incul- 
cated as  the  first  and  primary  duty.  In  fact,  he  considers  it 
the  foundation  of  all ;  and  teaches  that  ancestors  are  to  be 
worshipped  after  death,  and  their  slightest  command  obeyed 
throughout  life.  He  advocates  subjection  to  superiors,  and 
contentment  with  our  lot,  but  appears  to  have  no  idea  of 
retribution  beyond  this  life ;  and  although  in  his  works  the 
existence  of  a  superior  power  is  admitted,  and  he  even  says, 
in  one  instance,  "  Imperial  Heaven  has  no  kindred  to  serve, 
and  will  only  assist  Virtue,"  yet  a  favorite  maxim  of  his, 
"  Respect  the  gods,  but  keep  them  at  a  distance,"  proves 
that  he  considered  the  superior  influences  as  having  but  lit- 
tle affinity  with  man. 

The  religion  of  Laou-tze  comes  next  for  our  considera- 
tion. Its  followers  are  called  Taouists,  from  the  word  Taou, — 
Reason, — the  active  principle, — eternal  reason.  Its  founder 
lived  about  the  same  time  as  Confucius,  who  is  said  to  have 
had  an  interview  with  him.  Confucius  describes  Laou-tze  as 
resembling  the  dragon,  and  received  from  him  a  lecture,  in 
which  he  accuses  him  of  worldly-mindedness  and  vanity,  and 
concludes  by  telling  him  to  make  the  best  of  it  he  can.     He 


A  Cruise  in  the  China  Seas.    79 

is  called  the  "  Venerable  Philosopher,"  and  is  said  to  have 
appeared  thrice  upon  earth ;  in  one  instance  as  Lavu-Tan, 
when  he  honored  Confucius  with  a  visit ;  another  time  as 
Laou-Keun,  "  The  venerable  Prince." 

He  has  left  some  good  maxims,  but  his  religion  is  tinged 
with  error,  and  is  filled  with  superstition.  I  have  hardly  time, 
and  it  would  be  scarcely  worth  while,  to  describe  the  peculiar 
tenets  he  inculcates ;  but  he  allows  extensive  powers  to  evil 
and  malignant  spirits,  and  the  priests  make  great  use  of  their 
supposed  influence.  The  belief  that  ghosts  will  return  to 
haunt  and  disturb  the  places  in  which  the  spirit  has  left  the 
body,  causes  many  a  poor  believer  of  this  doctrine  to  be  cast 
out,  and  deserted  by  its  disciples  in  the  agonies  of  death ! 

The  doctrines  of  Buddha,  from  their  prevalence  in  India, 
are  generally  known  to  the  reading  public.  Buddhism  is 
the  basest  kind  of  idolatry,  and  its  rites  are  debasing  and  re- 
volting. The  worshipper  is  to  infuse  himself  into  Buddha 
by  a  constant  repetition  of  his  name,  and  continually  thinking 
of  him. 

The  Buddhists  sacrifice  to  their  ancestors,  and  feed  the 
hungry  ghosts.  They  also  furnish  them  with  clothing,  and 
other  necessaries,  by  shaping  the  article  required  from  paper, 
and  destroying  it  by  fire.  In  this  manner  houses,  and  house- 
hold utensils,  money,  and  even  slaves,  are  remitted  to  such 
ghosts  as  are  thought  to  need  them. 

I  have  only  space  within  the  limits  assigned  to  this  chap- 
ter to  give  a  description  of  heaven,  copied  from  a  Buddhistic 
work,  before  I  leave  the  subject  to  continue  the  incidents  of 
the  cruise. 


80  Kathay: 

"  The  land  of  Heaven — Buddha's — is  perfect  gold.  Its 
gardens  and  palaces  are  adorned  with  gems.  They  are  en- 
circled with  rows  of  trees,  and  borders  of  net-work.  There 
are  lovely  birds,  of  sparkling  plumage  and  exquisite  notes. 
The  great  god  O-lo-han  ;  the  goddess  of  Mercy ;  the  unnum- 
bered Buddhas ;  the  host  of  demigods,  and  the  sages  of 
heaven  and  earth,  will  all  be  assembled  on  that  sacred  spot. 
But  in  that  sacred  kingdom  there  are  no  women  ;  (!)  for  the 
women  who  will  live  in  that  country  are  first  changed  into 
men.  The  inhabitants  are  produced  from  the  Lotus  flower, 
and  have  pure  and  fragrant  bodies,  fair  and  well-formed 
countenances,  with  hearts  full  of  wisdom,  and  free  from  vex- 
ation. They  are  without  pain  or  sickness,  and  never  become 
old.  This  is  the  Paradise  of  the  West ;  and  the  way  to  ob- 
tain it  the  most  simple  imaginable,  depending  on  one  sen- 
tence, O-me-to-fuh.    Amida  Buddha !" 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.         81 


CHAPTEK  IX. 

Christmas  and  the  New  Year  in  Macao— Removal  of  remains  of  Da  Cunha— The 
Dead  give  place  to  the  Quick— Chinese  manner  of  Fishing— A  new  principle 
in  Hydraulics — Inspection  of  Macao  Militia— An  ancient  Cemetery — Arrival  of 
the  new  Governor,  Cardoza— Under  way  for  Manilla— Fetch  up  at  Hong-Kong— 
Another  Start— Island  of  Luconia— Bay  of  Manilla— Earthquake— Discovery  and 
Settlement  of  the  Philippines  — Description  of  Manilla— The  Calaada— A 
puppet-show. 

/CHRISTMAS  was  passed  by  me  a  valetudinarian  at  Macao? 

the  ship  having  left  me  there,  in  hospital,  on  her  passage 
from  Hong-Kong  to  Whampoa. 

On  Christmas  eve  I  visited  the  different  churches,  all 
Roman  Catholic  of  course.  They  were  brilliantly  illuminated, 
and  filled  principally  with  females,  who  knelt  upon  the  bare 
floors  whilst  services,  suitable  for  the  occasion,  were  performed. 
All  the  churches  were  opened,  and  in  that  of  San  Augustinho 
heard  some  pretty  good  singing  by  boys.  The  old  year  was 
allowed  to  pass  out  and  the  new  year  come  in  without  much 
eclat  at  Macao,  indeed  they  are  a  dull  set — the  Macanese, 
and  if  the  Chinese  had  any  courage  they  could  soon  dislodge 
them. 

Upon  the  2d  of  January  the  removal  of  the  remains  of 
ex-Governor  Da  Cunha,  from  the  government  house  to  the 
church  of  San  Francisco,  took  place.  The  corpse  was  accom- 
5 


82  Kathay: 

panied  by  the  troops  and  clergy ;  and  the  dead  Governor 
vacated  in  favor  of  a  living  one  soon  expected  from  Lisbon. 

In  my  walks  outside  of  the  town,  along  the  beach,  I 
noticed  some  Chinamen  fishing :  their  net  was  very  exten- 
sive and  staked  down  on  the  beach,  to  its  sides  were  attached 
ropes  which  led  to  a  temporary  shed  upon  a  rock,  where 
they  were  fastened  to  an  axle  having  treadles,  which  a 
Chinaman,  by  applying  his  feet,  made  revolve,  and  by  this 
means  elevated  and  depressed  the  net  at  pleasure.  Saw  also 
a  new  principle  in  hydraulics,  the  object  to  which  it  was  ap- 
plied being  to  fill  a  sluice  to  irrigate  a  vegetable  garden  from 
a  reservoir,  and  the  modus  operandi  was  this :  two  China- 
men, standing  vis-a-vis,  held  the  ends  of  two  ropes,  each 
fastened  to  the  upper  and  lower  parts  of  a  bucket,  by  slack- 
ening which  they  dipped  the  bucket  into  a  well,  and  then  by 
hauling  in  tautened  it,  and  communicating  a  swinging  motion 
to  the  bucket  by  the  same  process,  discharged  its  contents  into 
the  drain. 

Witnessed  an  inspection  drill  of  the  Macao  Militia.  They 
were  out  in  considerable  numbers,  and  were  clothed  in  a  neat 
dark  green  uniform,  but  did  not  appear  very  perfect  in  the 
manual.  It  struck  me  that  these  youths  did  not  take  much 
pride  in  their  position  as  privates,  especially  when  several  of 
the  garrison  troops  were  looking  on,  and  when  they  were 
dismissed,  those  who  had  no  servants  to  carry  their  muskets, 
used  them  as  walking-sticks  on  returning  home. 

Strolling  about  one  afternoon,  I  came  upon  an  old  grave- 
yard on  the  top  of  a  barren  hill,  off  from  the  Governor's  road, 
about  two  miles  from  the  Campo  gate.     The  stones  were  all 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  83 

flat  and  weather-worn ;  the  inscriptions  of  many  were  indis- 
tinct, and  would  have  baffled  the  skill  of  Old  Mortality  to 
decipher.  Upon  one  I  found  the  date  17 6  7.  None  as  late 
as  the  present  century ;  some  were  in  German,  others  had  the 
English  text. 

This  burial-place  did  not  appear  to  have  ever  been  in- 
closed, nor  had  it  been  used  for  the  purpose  of  sepulture  for 
nearly  one  century.  That  quaint  ditty  came  into  my  head, 
and  I  naturally  used  its  words  as  I  looked  upon  these  tombs : 

"  Oh  where  are  those  who  lived  and  talked 
A  hundred  years  ago  ?" 

And  where  will  be  those  who  breathe  and  walk  one  hun- 
dred years  hence  ? 

After  three  days  hard  work,  the  ship  was  got  out  of  the 
Typa,  and  on  the  29th  of  January  (the  anniversary  of  our  de- 
parture from  the  United  States,)  got  under  way  with  the  in- 
tention of  steering  for  Manilla,  but  adverse  winds  and  strong- 
tides  forced  us  to  put  into  Hong-Kong,  where  we  found  it 
convenient  to  lay  in  additional  stores. 

Before  we  left  Macao,  the  Portuguese  corvette  Don  Joao 
Primero,  had  landed  the  new  Governor,  Cordoza. 

On  the  morning  of  the  1st  of  February  got  under  way, 
and  stood  out  of  the  harbor  of  Hong-Kong — destination, 
Manilla. 

In  this  month  commences  the  Chinese  new  year,  and  our 
departure  deprived  us  of  an  opportunity  of  witnessing  its 
celebration,  which  is  curious  and  worth  seeing.  It  is  perhaps 
the  only  general  holiday  the  Chinese  have  :  they  devote  it  to 


84  Kathay: 

feasting  and  hilarity,  drinking  sam-chu,  and  gambling ;  and  as 
the  fourth  commandment  is  not  considered  in  their  religion, 
it  is  the  only  period  when  a  cessation  from  labor  occurs 
among  them,  and  they  appear  to  make  the  most  of  it,  for 
they  dispose  of  any  thing  at  a  low  rate  for  a  coin,  previous  to 
its  advent,  and  the  Coolies  will  appropriate  every  thing  they 
can  lay  their  hands  on  to  promote  its  gratification. 

Made  the  Island  of  Luconia,  the  principal  of  the  Philip- 
pine group,  on  the  5th  of  February,  in  the  morning  watch, 
and  employed  that  day  in  running  down  its  coast.  Stood  off 
and  on  the  entrance  of  the  Bay  of  Manilla  that  night,  and 
early  the  next  morning  passed  El  Corregidor,  and  stood  up 
the  bay  with  a  fair  wind,  coming  to  anchor  off  the  town 
about  six  bells,  eleven  o'clock,  p.  m. 

The  Bay  of  Manilla  is  magnificent  in  its  proportions,  but 
there  are  no  striking  objects  surrounding  it  as  at  Rio.  The 
water  is  generally  bold  and  its  navigation  easy,  yet  there  is  a 
bar,  or  shallow  spit  projecting  into  it  about  twenty  miles  from 
its  mouth,  upon  which  a  brig,  which  had  been  ahead  of  us, 
struck  as  we  came  up,  thus  proving  that  there  are  striking 
objects  in  the  bay,  at  least. 

Upon  the  morning  after  our  arrival,  a  "tremblor,"  or 
shock  from  an  earthquake,  was  felt  on  shore.  They  said  it 
was  the  most  severe  one  sustained  for  many  years.  ISTo 
damage  was  done  that  I  could  learn,  and  they  do  not  appear 
to  dread  them  much,  having  an  outlet  for  these  sulphureous 
quakers  in  an  extensive  volcano. 

"The  celebrated  and  ever  loyal  city  of  Manilla,"  as  it  is 
called  in  the  most  grandiliquose  of  languages,  is  one  of  the 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  85 

oldest  European  settlements  in  the  East,  and  it  Las  well  de- 
served its  name.  It  is  the  capital  of  Luconia,  or  Luzon,  and 
is  situated  in  about  lat.  14°  30'  N.  and  121°  E.  long. 

Luconia,  as  I  have  before  stated,  being  the  principal 
island  of  the  Philippines,  gives  this  singular  group  a  character 
throughout  the  world. 

These  islands  were  first  discovered  by  that  celebrated, 
but  unfortunate  navigator,  Magellan,*  in  whose  honor  a 
column  is  erected  in  Manilla,  who  did  not  survive  long 
enough  to  enjoy  the  fruits  of  his  skill  and  perseverance,  hav- 
ing been  killed  at  the  island  of  Matan  in  1521. 

After  the  death  of  Magellan,  and  the  defeat  of  his  ex- 
pedition, two  more  attempts  were  made,  which  also  failed. 
A  fourth  expedition,  under  command  of  Villalobos,  sent  by 
Mendoza,  then  Governor  of  New  Spain,-  in  1542,  succeeded 
in  reaching  the  islands,  when  was  given  to  them  the  name 
of  Philippines,  in  honor  of  Philip  the  Second,  Prince  of 
Asturias ;  but  Villalobos  dying,  it  was  broken  up,  and  the 
few  Spaniards  that  survived,  returned  home  disheartened. 

*  Fernando  Magelhaens,  generally  called  as  in  the  text,  was  the 
first  who  attempted  the  circumnavigation  of  the  globe.  He  was  a 
Portuguese  by  birth,  and  sailed  from  the  port  of  St.  Lucar,  in  Spain, 
with  an  expedition  of  five  vessels,  under  the  auspices  of  Charles  V., 
on  the  20th  of  September,  1519.  But  one  of  his  vessels  effected  its 
object,  the  Vitoria,  under  Sebastian  del  Cano,  which  reached  St. 
Lucar,  the  6th  of  September,  1522,  with  but  eighteen  survivors,  who 
made  a  pilgrimage  barefooted  to  the  Saints  for  their  safe  return.  He 
gave  his  name  to  those  Straits,  through  which  he  reached  the  East,  a 
few  years  after  his  fellow-countryman,  De  Gama,  had  passed  around 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 


86  K  A  T  H  A  y  : 

It  remained  to  Segaspi  to  establish  permanently  the 
Spanish  power  upon  these  islands,  and  in  1565  he  planted 
successfully  that  flag  upon  Luconia,  and  became  its  first 
Governor.  By  a  judicious  policy  the  good  will  of  its  inhabit- 
ants was  secured,  and  the  successful  attempts  of  priests  in 
converting  the  credulous  natives  to  Catholicism,  cemented  a 
conquest  for  Spain,  the  least  stained  of  any  in  her  sanguinary 
history. 

In  1571  Manilla  was  formed  into  a  city  with  a  municipal 
government,  but  it  was  not  until  1795  that  its  charter  re- 
ceived the  royal  seal,  and  only  in  1638  that  it  obtained  the 
privileges  of  the  other  royal  cities  of  Spain. 

"  The  ever  loyal  city"  is  supposed  to  be  that  portion  in- 
closed by  walls,  but  the  suburbs  are  most  interesting  to  a 
stranger. 

The  semi-circular  space  called  "Manilla,"  contains  the 
dwellings  of  the  full-fed  drowsy  officials,  whilst  surrounding- 
it  is  a  busy,  active  buzzing  hive.  The  change  from  the  bus- 
tle of  the  Binondo  quarter  to  the  dull  torpor  intra  murales, 
strikes  you  at  once. 

Leaving  the  ship  in  one  of  her  boats,  we  were  pulled  up 
the  Pasig,  a  river  which  runs  through  the  town,  and  connects 
Laguna  de  Bay  with  the  Bay  of  Manilla,  and  is  here  between 
two  and  three  hundred  yards  wide,  protected  by  an  extensive 
Mole,  which  projects  some  distance  into  the  Bay,  upon  the 
extremity  of  which  is  a  light-house. 

A  short  distance  from  its  entrance  was  the  Hotel  of  San 
Fernando,  situated  upon  its  left  bank,  which  we  reached 
about  noon,  and  finding  the  heat  oppressive,  gladly  availed 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.         81 

ourselves  of  the  protection  of  its  roof,  and  the  refreshment 
of  a  shower  bath,  which  no  one  can  appreciate  more  than  a 
person  who  has  been  confined  on  board  a  man  of  war,  with 
"  one  wide  water  all  around"  him,  and  but  few  chances  to 
use  it. 

Took  dinner  at  the  hotel,  and  having  thus  refreshed  and 
fortified  the  inner  man,  hired  a  "  piscante"  (a  carriage  to  con- 
tain two  persons),  and  drove,  through  the  suburbs,  out  to  the 
Calcada,  to  reach  which,  had  to  cross  a  magnificent,  but  an- 
cient bridge  over  the  Pasig. 

The  Calcada  is  the  fashionable  drive,  and  the  meaning  of 
the  word  is  a  causeway,  or  raised  road ;  it  extends  along  the 
walls  of  the  city,  and  its  centre,  as  well  as  each  of  its  sides,  is 
planted  with  fine  flowering  trees.  A  space  is  left  between 
the  double  row  of  trees  in  the  centre,  in  which  are  placed 
mounted  guards,  in  showy  uniforms,  and  mounted  on  splen- 
did horses,  to  preserve  order,  and  prevent  collision  of  car- 
riages, which  are  not  permitted  to  pass  out  of  a  line,  but  must 
enter  the  passeo  from  the  city  at  the  left,  and  are  obliged  to 
follow  each  other  at  a  slow  pace  and  return  upon  the  opposite 
side  in  the  same  order ;  the  duty  of  the  patrol  being  to  see 
that  no  carriage  leaves  its  place  in  the  line. 

This  part  of  the  road  forms  the  chord  of  a  semi-circle, 
whilst  a  continuation,  not  planted,  is  the  segment,  which  turn- 
ing round  the  walls  of  the  city  extends  along  the  beach  of 
the  bay,  giving  a  fine  view  of  the  shipping  in  the  roads. 

From  the  Calcada  branch  roads,  leading  to  different  points 
on  this  beautiful  island,  and  these  drives  are  truly  magnificent. 


88  Kathay: 

The  roads  are  natural,  and  smooth  as  the  most  carefully  kept 
lawn,  your  carriage  rolls  along  them  with  so  even  a  motion, 
and  the  scenery  through  which  you  drive  is  of  such  an  orien- 
tal character,  and  the  produce  so  luxuriant  and  rare,  its  fra- 
grance so  sweet,  that  one  leans  back  in  his  easy-going  pis- 
cante,  totally  forgetful  of  every  thing  but  the  present  enjoy- 
ment, and  almost  realizing  the  ideas  of  fairy  land  which 
fancy  wove 

"In  Life's  young  day." 

On  the  evening  of  our  first  day  in  Manilla,  after  returning 
from  our  drive,  directed  the  "cochero"  to  take  us  to  the 
theatre ;  he  accordingly  drove  us  to  the  Carillo  quarter,  and 
to  the  theatre  of  that  name.  Were  admitted  on  the  pay- 
ment of  two  reals  each,  and  seated  ourselves,  patiently  await- 
ing the  withdrawing  of  a  curtain,  upon  which  was  delineated 
an  uncouth  figure  and  accompaniment,  supposed  to  repre- 
sent the  "  divine  Apollo"  and  his  lyre. 

The  building  was  of  bamboo,  and,  covered  with  leaves 
from  the  same  tree,  was  cool  and  well  ventilated. 

About  fifty  persons  composed  the  audience,  and  these 
were  principally  civilized  Indians  of  the  Tagalo  tribe,  a  fine- 
looking  race.  They  were  remarkably  well  behaved,  and  lis- 
tened with  much  attention  and  apparent  pleasure,  to  some 
most  execrable  music,  elicited  by  scraping  "  the  hair  of  the 
horse  over  the  entrails  of  a  cat,"  to  wit :  fiddling !  which,  ceas- 
ing at  last,  at  a  given  signal,  up  rose  the  curtain,  and  with  it 
Apollo  took  flight,  and  ascended  to  the  clouds.     The  perform- 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.         89 

ance  commenced,  and  lo !  we  found  we  had  been  beguiled 
into  a  puppet-show ! — the  actors  being  of  pasteboard,  and, 
although  managed  very  well,  we  soon  tired  of  them,  and 
retracing  our  road  to  the  hotel,  took  a  shower  bath,  and 
turned  in. 


5* 


90  •    Kathay: 


CHAPTEK  X. 

Drive  to  the  Balsa— Meaning  of  the  word — A  Mob  of  Women— Nora  Creena— 
Magic,  slipper— Description  of  the  drive— Ferryman  of  the  Females — Decline 
the  office— The  Suburbs — A  la  Balsa— Manilla,  intra  murales — The  Mole  by 
Moonlight — Friend  in  a  fit — Circo  Olympico — Scenes  in  the  Circle. 

UP  betimes  upon  the  morning  of  our  second  day  on  shore, 
for  a  drive  to  the  Balsa.  The  word,  in  English,  means 
pool  or  raft,  and  the  road  over  which  we  drove  led  to  a  ferry 
over  a  stream,  which  you  cross  to  reach  the  romantic  village 
of  Maraquino. 

Met  crowds  of  native  women  coming  in  from  that  neigh- 
borhood to  commence  their  work  at  the  tobacco  factory.  Had 
heard  of  miles  of  girls  at  Lowell,  greeting  with  smiles  the 
noble  father  of  the  system  which  gave  them  employment,  the 
honorable  and  the  honest  Henry  Clay,  but  had  never  antici- 
pated meeting  with  so  many  of  the  sex,  within  a  mile,  in 
these  latitudes. 

The  crowd  was  so  great  as  to  materially  affect  our  pro- 
gress. We  had  often  to  haul  up  to  allow  them  to  pass,  and 
when  our  cochero  received  the  order  "  ander"  it  was  coupled 
with  the  caution  "  despacho"  that  he  might  drive  carefully  for 
fear  of  injuring  some  of  them. 

Did  not  count,  but  suppose  there  could  not  have  been  less 
than  two  thousand  women  in  this  mob ;  but,  alas !  though 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  91 

some" were  young,  but  few  were  beautiful,  and,  as  they  shuffled 
along,  in  their  short  jackets,  and  the  ungainly  sciar  wrapped 
around  their  nether  extremities,  they  made  a  display  of 
charms  by  no  means  attractive.  Their  style  of  dress  differing 
from  Nora  Creena's  in  this,  that  whilst  her  gown  was 

"  Flowing  free  as  mountain  breezes," 

their  substitute  for  that  portion  of  woman's  apparel  appeared 
as  if  the  strongest  kind  of  a  "  mountain  breeze"  had  wrapped 
it  tightly  round  their  forms,  and  continued  to  keep  them  en- 
veloped in  its  Laocoon-like  folds  ;  and  although  "  every  beauty" 
was  not  left  exactly  "free"  yet  there  could  be  no  disputing  the 
evidence  of  sinking  and  swelling  so  sweetly  described  by  the 
poet,  as  the  peculiar  charm  exhibited  in  the  costume  of  his 
admired  Nora.  They  were  generally  barefooted,  and  those 
whose  feet  were  clad,  had  them  covered  with  that  wonderful 
slipper,  which  barely  covers  the  extremity  of  the  foot,  and  is 
kept  in  its  place  by  the  adhesion  of  the  smallest  toe  to  its 
neighbor. 

Getting  clear,  at  length,  of  this  crowd  of  feminines, 
"  presto"  was  the  word,  and  away  we  bowled  along  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  roads  I  have  ever  seen.  The  foliage  was 
luxuriant,  the  air  of  the  early  morning  cool  and  refreshing, 
and  filled  with  fragrance.  The  road  (a  natural  one)  even  as 
a  bowling  green. 

A  drive  of  about  one  hour  brought  us  to  the  river.  I 
forget  its  name ;  it  is  a  small  stream  flowing  into  the  Bay  of 
Manilla  at  Cavite,  where  we  found  the  float  formed  of  bamboo, 
which  is  drawn  across  by  ropes  (?)  made  of  the  same  mate- 


92  Kat ii  a  v  : 

rial.  By  this  means  that  immense  coticouree  of  women  had 
been  transported,  and  great  as  is  my  devotion  and  subjection 
to  their  charms,  should  have  declined  the  office  of  ferryman, 
after  the  morning's  rencontre. 

A  sudden  shower  prevented  our  making  a  long  stay  at 
this  romantic  spot,  and  also  interfered  with  a  contemplated 
visit  to  a  manufactory  of  Manilla  cordage  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. 

Breakfast  was  awaiting  our  return  at  the  hotel,  at  half- 
past  nine,  and  this  dispatched,  spent  some  time  expecting  a 
permit  to  visit  the  "  Fabrica  del  Tobago,"  in  which  being  dis- 
appointed, made  our  cochero  drive  us  through  the  suburbs. 
As  I  have  before  stated,  these  form  the  principal  part  of  the 
town,  and  are  of  considerable  extent,  but  the  houses  in 
them  are  generally  constructed  of  bamboo. 

There  are  a  number  built  of  stone,  but  many  of  them 
were  in  a  dilapidated  condition. 

In  the  after  part  of  the  day  drove  again  to  the  Calqada, 
where  we  spent  the  evening  passing  up  and  down,  and  occa- 
sionally slipping  out  of  place  in  the  line  when  we  could  es- 
cape the  vigilant  eye  of  the  guard,  to  enable  us  to  pass  the 
equipage  and  to  see  the  face  of  "  some  gay  beauty,"  the  ex- 
quisite shape  of  whose  neck  and  shoulders  had  tempted  us  to 
risk  fine  and  imprisonment  for  the  sake  of  a  "  front  view." 

After  a  refreshing  sleep,  which  was  superinduced  by  a 
glorious  shower  bath,  and  made  doubly  delicious  by  the 
remembrance  of  the  glances  of  the  beauties  of  the  Prado, 
which,  like  fire-flies,  flitted  through  our  dreams,  started 
again  upon  the  Balsa  road  with  an  intention  of  visiting  the 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  93 

"  Rope  factory,"  from  seeing  which  the  rain   deterred    us 
yesterday. 

Our  command  to  the  cochero  upon  his  mounting,  was 
a  la  Balsa,  trusting  to  be  able  to  direct  him  on  the  way, 
but  as  we  depended  somewhat  upon  the  fellow's  knowledge 
of  the  proper  place  to  turn  off,  found  ourselves  again  disap- 
pointed, for  the  confounded  postillion  either  could  not  or 
would  not  find  the  road,  and  out  to  the  ferry  again  he  drove 
us,  in  spite  of  my  teeth,  and  all  the  Spanish  I  could  get 
through  them.  I  rather  thought  he  made  ignorance  a  plea 
for  unwillingness,  until  I  afterwards  learned  that  these  men, 
the  cocheros,  who  are  a  class  sui  generis,  being  of  the  Indian 
race,  understand  but  little  more  of  the  Spanish  language  than 
what  they  pick  up  at  hotels,  in  the  way  of  their  profession — 
their  own  tongue  being  the  Tagalo,  of  which  tribe  they  are 
generally  natives.  My  vanity  somewhat  soothed  by  this  infor- 
mation, after  breakfasting  drove  within  the  walls  of  the  city, 
and  entered  the  "  city  of  Manilla,"  little  more  now  than  a 
citadel  for  the  surrounding  population.  These  walls  are  in 
themselves  thick  and  massive,  and  cover  a  considerable  space 
in  their  foundation,  although  the  area  which  they  inclose  is 
not  so  great  as  it  appears  from  the  bay.  Within  them  the 
houses  are  of  a  better  style  of  architecture  than  those  of  the 
suburbs,  and  the  streets  through  which  I  drove  were  well 
graded,  even  and  clean ;  but  life  was  wanting  here,  and  the 
solitary  soldier  at  his  post  was  the  only  thing  human  I  saw ; 
however,  my  visit  was  not  well  timed,  being  at  the  hour 
when  the  Sefioras  are  supposed  to  be  taking  their  siestas,  and 


94  Kathay: 

my  object  was  merely  to  see  what  kind  of  a  place  it  was. 
Upon  a  future  occasion  saw  it  to  more  advantage. 

I  refer  to  my  diary,  from  which  make  the  following  ex- 
tracts. 

Monday,  the  eighteenth  of  February. — Returned  on 
board  from  another  trip  to  the  shore,  last  night  at  twelve, 
and  have  seen  so  many  sights,  that  I  scarcely  know  in  what 
manner  to  record  them ;  perhaps  the  best  plan  is  to  detail 
them,  seriatim. 

Left  the  ship  on  Saturday  morning,  in  the  ten  o'clock 
boat,  and  reaching  the  hotel,  remained  there  until  dinner, 
occupying  time  in  reading  and  taking  a  bath.  After  dinner 
drove  out  to  the  Calcada,  around  it  to  the  front  of  the  city 
and  the  mole ;  walked  upon  the  mole  for  an  hour  or  more, 
when  the  moon  rose.  It  was  full  and  bright ;  never  had 
seen  such  splendid  moonlight.  Had  a  sentimental  friend 
with  me,  upon  whom  it  operated  powerfully.  He  remarked, 
"  What  a  treat  it  would  be  to  have  by  your  side,  in  such  a 
scene,  one  whom  you  loved,  and  who  could  love  you  !" 

Finding  the  fit  strong  upon  him,  made  the  cochero  drive 
off  the  Prado  directly,  and  take  us  to  the  "  Circo  Olympico" 
— its  opening  night.  Paid  six  reals  each  for  admission  and 
had  our  money's  worth. 

The  performers  were  all  Indians,  excepting  the  proprietor, 
who  was  himself  a  native  of  la  belle  France.  The  horses 
were  " native"  if  not  to  "  the  manner  born."  Nice  little 
nags,  these  ponies  of  Manilla.  The  Frenchman  had  trained 
the  menage,  both  Indians  and  horses,  and  promised  the 
enlightened  public  a  treat  such  as  had  never  been  offered 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.  95 

before.  His  place  was  well  arranged,  and  we  had  tickets 
stamped  a  la  premiere  lunette — to  the  dress  circle.  In  it 
were  several  very  tastily  dressed  and  rather  handsome  ladies 
— brunettes  of  course.  The  performance  had  commenced 
before  we  entered,  and  at  that  time  the  act  in  progress  was 
that  of  jumping  and  turning  somersets  over  a  poor  and  pa- 
tient quadruped  of  the  equine  species.  There  was  no  clown 
in  "  propria  persona,"  but  a  poor  Mestizo  supplied  the  place 
of  one,  for  being  so  unfortunate  as  to  make  some  awkward 
leaps  at  the  commencement,  and  showing  some  concern  at 
his  failure,  whenever  his  turn  came,  he  was  sure  to  be  greet- 
ed with  laughter  and  applause.  The  audience  had  elected 
him  clown,  nem.  con. — thus  proving  the  truth  of  the  axiom, 

"  Some  men  have  greatness  thrust  upon  them." 

To  vary  the  scene,  the  manner  of  leaping  was  changed, 
and  two  men  were  placed  upon  the  beast  in  a  reversed  posi- 
tion, which  my  sentimental  friend,  now  becoming  facetious, 
thought  very  peculiar ;  they  were  soon,  however,  both  sprawl- 
ing in  the  tan  amidst  screams  of  laughter,  having  been 
knocked  off  by  this  bungling  individual. 

This  over,  the  music  commenced.  Such  music !  During 
the  uproar  an  attache  of  the  establishment  appeared  all  be- 
spangled, with  an  implement  such  as  haymakers  use  in  the 
happy  harvest  time,  with  which  he  described  eccentric  circles 
round  the  ring,  stepping  gingerly  backwards  at  each  swoop. 
At  this  my  sentimental  friend  became  witty,  and  selling  him- 
self to  Joseph  us  Millerius  Senior,  inquired  in  a  whisper  if  that 


96  K  a  t  ii  a  y  : 

act  might  not  have  been  set  down  in  the  bills  as  "The 

Rake's  Progress."     Had  no  hopes  for  him  now,  but  in  a 

t 

shaved  head,  low  diet,  and  the  Water  Cure. 

The  proprietor  stepped  gracefully  forth  upon  the  smoothed 
tan  to  announce  the  grand  scene — an  act  of  riding  two  horses 
by  himself,  and  a  young  lady — her  first  appearance  in  any 
ring !  Indeed  it  appeared  to  be  the  first  essay  of  all  the 
performers. 

With  a  grand  flourish  of  the  entire  band,  consisting  of 
trombone,  riddle  and  drum,  two  small  Manilla  ponies  made 
their  entre'e,  accompanied  by  attendants  enough  to  have 
borne  them  on  bodily.  Senor  y  Seiorita  followed  hand  in 
hand,  and  introduced  themselves,  in  character,  with  a  grace- 
ful bow,  a  modest  curtsy,  and  the  disengaged  hand  on  his 
heart,  on  the  part  of  the  gentleman  as  a  token  for  both. 

The  lady  was  assisted  to  mount  the  inside  pony,  when 
the  gentleman  leaped  lightly  upon  the  oft*  one.  He  was  at 
first  seated,  as  indeed  was  the  female  performer.  At  a  sud- 
den burst  from  the  band,  he  started  from  his  seat,  a  la  cava- 
lier, and  bounding  into  the  air,  alighted  upon  the  backs  of 
the  horses,  a  leg  upon  each.  The  lady  was  expected  to  have 
followed  this  graceful  action,  but  its  effect  appeared  to 
astonish  the  beasts,  and  the  off  steed,  as  mischievous  a  Mus- 
tang as  ever  munched  at  a  manger,  suspicious  of  a  design  to 
make  him  carry  double,  commenced  curveting,  and  disturbed 
the  equilibrium  of  the  lady  considerably.  Then  he  seemed 
determined  upon  a  separation  "  a  vinculo,"  and  spreading 
out,  placed  the  gentlemau  in  an  awkward  predicament,  forcing 
him  to  make  a  stride  like  a  pair  of  compasses  in  measuring  a 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.         97 

hemisphere,  and  stretching  his  tight  and  light-blue  panta- 
loons to  the  very  extent  of  their  elasticity,  a  quantity  of  chalk 
from  the  saddle,  marking  the  part  which  had  come  in  con- 
tact with  it.  The  disorganizing  pony,  after  being  well  flogged, 
was  forced  back  into  his  original  position  by  his  numerous 
attendants — vi  et  armis — and  assisted  in  describing  a  semi- 
circle, with  a  few  deviations,  when  suddenly  stopping  at  the 
place  of  entrance,  he  caused  the  gentleman  to  perform  an  in- 
voluntary back  somerset,  and  saluted  him  with  a  shower  of 
kicks  in  his  descent.  But  the  undaunted  Frenchman  was 
soon  upon  his  legs  and  the  pony's  back  again,  and  then  com- 
menced a  combat  in  which  all  the  performers  joined.  The 
horses  were  whipped  by  the  attendants,  and  kicked,  plunged, 
and  reared  on  their  part.  The  proprietor  expostulated  with 
his  lady  co-actor,  whom  he  threatened  and  coaxed  in  turn, 
but  who  evidently  had  a  strong  desire  to  discontinue  the  act ; 
and  it  was  amusing  to  watch  the  varying  expression  of  his 
countenance,  as,  with  frowning  brow,  and  clenched  hands, 
and  such  a  grimace  as  a  Frenchman  only  can  produce,  he 
menaced  the  lady,  and  "  the  passing  smile  his  features  wore," 
when  he  turned  round  deprecatingly  to  the  audience. 

At  last,  a  compromise  having  been  effected,  the  horses 
were  gotten  fairly  under  way,  and  had  attained  considerable 
headway,  but  broaching  to,  the  Serlora  was  dismounted,  and 
regaining  her  feet,  made  an  exit  with  more  speed  than  grace, 
and  the  performance  was  announced — concluded.  But  upon 
taking  a  peep,  after  the  audience  had  retired,  I  saw  one  of 
the  ponies,  mounted  by  a  Manilla  man,  running  the  gauntle 


98  Kathay: 

of  four  long  whips  around  the  ring,  and  felt  certain  his  rider 
could  not  have  enjoyed  much  pleasure  from  the  act,  for  every 
now  and  then  he  caught  a  lash  intended  for  the  horse,  and  if 
the  other  naughty  pony  had  to  come  in  for  a  like  portion, 
expect  he  had  another  rider. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China   Seas.  99 


CHAPTER  XL 

An  early  drive— Visit  to  Churches— The  Cathedral — Description — Reflections — 
Church  of  the  Binondo  Quarter— The  Dead  Child— Baptism— Life's*  Entrances 
and  Exit— Ceremony  of  taking  the  Veil— Poor  Maraquita — An  Episode— Don 
Caesar  de  Bazan — Interior  of  the  Convent — Interview  with  the  Lady  Superior 
— Interchange  of  compliments — Spanish  Courtesy — An  admission. 

CJUNDAY  morning,  took  an  early  drive  upon  one  of  the 
*•*  beautiful  roads  that  penetrate  the  interior  of  this  fruitful 
island,  and  returned  with  a  keen  appetite  for  breakfast ;  this 
dispatched,  drove  with  a  party  to  visit  the  churches. 

Went  first  within  the  walls  to  the  Cathedral.  Mass  was 
over,  and  they  were  about  to  close  the  church.  Had  an 
opportunity,  however,  to  obtain  a  hasty  look  at  its  interior. 

It  is  very  spacious  and  very  grand,  the  roof  supported  by 
pillars  about  twelve  feet  in  thickness.     No  galleries. 

The  principal  altar  was  quite  imposing,  and  upon  it,  plate 
of  considerable  value  was  exposed. 

There  are  also  other  altars,  and  a  number  of  chapels  in- 
closed. 

A  full  length  figure  of  our  Saviour,  after  His  Descent 
from  the  Cross,  is  extended  in  a  glass  case  beneath  one  of  the 
altars,  exciting  grateful  emotion  for  that  love  which  caused 
Him  to  lay  down  His  life  for  man,  but  not  a  proper  subject, 
in  my  opinion,  for  exhibition. 


100  Kathay: 

The  divine  mission  of  Christ,  its  object,  His  self-humilia- 
tion, denials,  struggles,  sufferings  and  sacrifice,  cannot  be  too 
often  presented  to  our  minds,  nor  too  eloquently  told.  His 
Gospel  cannot  lose  by  repetition,  and  His  life  should  be  our 
grand  exemplar !  But  the  image  of  the  Incarnate  Godhead 
should  never  be  associated  with  the  waxen  figure  of  a  revolt- 
ing corpse,  nor  should  the  hand  of  the  creature,  however 
skilful,  attempt  the  presentment  of  the  Great  Creator.  If 
Christ  took  upon  Himself  to  become  man,  after  He  had  per- 
formed His  mission,  and  laid  aside  the  form  which  He  had 
assumed  in  which  to  perform  the  work  of  eternity,  His  car- 
nal attributes  should  be  swallowed  up  in  the  glory  of  His 
Being,  and  the  mind  should  be  taught  to  look  up  from  the 
humiliation  of  the  grave,  and  follow,  with  awe,  the  hand  that 
rent  the  vail  of  the  Temple  in  twain,  up  to  the  mercy  seat, 
whence  he  ascended  to  plead  for  his  murderers  ! 

There  was  here  an  altar,  on  which  the  representation  of 
a  vine,  with  clusters  of  grapes  was  very  elaborately  cut,  also 
a  statue  of  an  apostle,  in  wood,  very  naturally  carved,  and  a 
conspicuous  object. 

Entered  another  church,  outside  the  walls,  in  the  Binondo 
Quarter.  This  was  not  so  large  as  the  Cathedral,  nor  as  im- 
posing, but  it  was  crowded  with  worshippers,  principally  In- 
dians of  the  Tagalo  tribe.  They  wrere  in  every  posture  of  de- 
votion, telling  their  beads,  and  praying  with  apparent  fervor. 
Indeed  they  appeared  very  zealous  converts. 

At  the  entrance  to  this  church  of  the  Binondo  was  ex- 
posed the  corpse  of  a  child  of  about  seven  or  eight  years.  It 
was  fantastically  dressed  and  laid  out  upon  a  litter.     To  the 


A    Cruise    in   the    China    Seas.       101 

left  of  this  " memento  mori"  which  appeared  to  produce  but 
little  effect,  were  quite  a  number  of  matrons,  holding  very 
young  infants  in  their  arms,  awaiting  their  turn  for  baptism  ; 
on  some  of  these  baby's  heads  they  had  placed  wigs ! 

It  was  a  strange  sight,  and  one  in  which  the  entrances 
and  the  exits  of  the  stage  of  life  were  exhibited — that  dead 
child,  flanked  by  those  newly  breathing  infants ! 

Had  been  told  that  the  ceremony  of  taking  the  veil  would 
come  off  that  afternoon  at  a  convent  within  the  city  walls,  but 
the  information  was  received  too  late,  for,  after  hastening  to 
the  house  of  our  hospitable  friends,  with  whom  we  drove  at 
once  to  the  convent,  found  the  ceremony  over.  The  vicinity 
of  the  convent  was  all  astir,  and  we  saw  a  number  of  ladies, 
and  heard  some  good  music  from  a  fine  band,  which,  although 
the  airs  were  gay,  must,  we  thought,  have  had  a  mournful 
sound  in  the  ears  of  the  poor  renouncing  soul,  henceforth  to 
be  immured  within  those  gloomy  walls.  But  no  one  ap- 
peared to  care  for  her,  all  was  life  and  gayety  without,  one 
would  have  thought  some  marriage  fete  was  being  celebrated, 
that  those  joy  notes  sounded  for  the  binding  of  the  holiest 
and  dearest  tie,  had  he  not  known  their  melody  jarred  upon 
heart-strings  rudely  severed,  and  ties  for  ever  broken.  But 
she  was  married,  yes,  married  to  the  church  !  Poor  Mara- 
quita,  thy  fate  was  melancholy,  and  thy  story  a  sad  one,  but 
one  too  often  told  of  the  warm-eyed  and  passionate  maidens 
of  this  "  land  of  the  sun." 

She  had  loved,  her  family  opposed.  Her  lover  was  be- 
neath her  in  condition,  yet  she  loved  him  still  the  dearer.  In 
these  countries,  for  a  daughter  to  think  of  mating  without 


102  Kathay: 

consent  of  priests  and  parents,  is  sacrilege.  She  was  guilty  of 
it,  her  proud  and  haughty  mother  had  destined  Maraquita 
to  be  the  bride  of  a  wealthy  grandee  of  old  Spain — had  dis- 
posed of  those  affections,  no  longer  in  Maraquita's  power  to 
give,  for  they  had  already  been  transferred  with  all  the  other 
treasures  of  a  young  and  loving  heart,  to  the  keeping  of  a 
dark-eyed  youth  of  Manilla.  He  had  been  rudely  repulsed 
by  her  parents,  but  often  would  the  cautious  twang  of  his 
guitar  bring  her  to  a  midnight  interview.  These  clandestine 
meetings  were  interrupted.  Her  dark-eyed  lover  no  longer 
came,  and  she  was  told  she  would  never  see  him  more.  A 
marriage  with  the  Don  was  urged,  she  resisted — the  alterna- 
tive was  a  convent !  In  pity  she  implored  a  short  delay,  and 
then  convinced  that  her  lover  had  suffered  from  her  cruel  pa- 
rents' jealousy,  gave  the  vows  of  her  broken  heart  to  the 
church.  And  that  music  is  her  requiem,  and  his  too !  For 
after  those  vows  had  been  pronounced,  and  the  black  veil  had 
shut  out  hope  for  ever,  a  haggard  youth  was  released  from  con- 
finement, of  whose  few  and  ill-starred  years  the  turbid  waters 
of  the  Pasig  soon  washed  away  all  trace. 

Poor  Maraquita !     Poor  Carlos  !     I  know  not  whose  fate 
the  most  to  deplore — 

"  The  one  to  end  in  madness, 
Both  in  misery." 

With  the  narrator  of  this  sad  tale  of  passion  and  despair,  I 
dropped  a  tear  to  their  memory,  thinking  how  truly  the  poet 
of  all  time  has  written — 

"  The  course  of  true  love  never  did  run  smooth." 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        103 

The  foregoing  was  not  related  at  the  time,  but  afterwards, 
by  a  young  Spanish  gentleman,  who  had  taken  some  pains  to 
enable  us  to  witness  the  ceremony.  I  had  hardly  expected 
to  hear  a  serious  story  from  his  lips,  for  his  appearance  was 
reckless  and  gay,  and  I  had  associated  him  in  my  mind  with 
the  character  of  Don  Caesar  de  Bazan,  as  I  had  seen  it  il- 
lustrated. 

He  introduced  us  further  into  the  convent  than  I  would 
have  ventured  upon  my  own  responsibility — appeared  at 
home  with  all  the  priests  towards  whom  his  manner  conveyed 
but  little  reverence — and  inquiring  if  we  had  any  desire  to 
see  the  nuns,  went  up  to  an  opening  in  which  there  was  a  re- 
volving frame,  and  asked  for  the  Lady  Superior.  The  lady 
mother  soon  presented  her  round  and  not  unhandsome  form 
at  a  door  to  the  right,  and  in  choice  Italian  demanded  our 
business.  With  much  nonchalance  Don  C.  expressed  a  de- 
sire to  pay  his  respects  to  the  ladies  under  her  charge,  espe- 
cially to  the  one  just  admitted.  His  coolness  somewhat  dis- 
concerted the  supreme  lady  Abbess,  to  whom  such  a  request 
had  never  before  been  preferred,  I  warrant,  and  her  black 
eyes  sparkled  "#th  scarcely  a  holy  fire,  as  she  answered  this 
time  in  Spanish,  and  in  the  tone  of  dignity  which  that  lan- 
guage can  convey  so  well,  "  That  the  nuns  were  in  their  place, 
and  the  new  one  did  not  receive  company,  especially  that  of 
such  gay  cavaliers,"  and  intimated  that  in  attending  to  their 
duties  they  set  an  example  which  would  be  well  followed  by 
those  cavaliers. 

Don  Caesar,  his  sang  froid  still  retaining  its  temperature, 
with  the  grave  courtesy  of  a  true  Spaniard,  bowing  almost  to 


104  Kathay: 

the  floor,  told  her,  "  Heaven  was  the  proper  place  for  angels 
such  as  her  noble  self  and  her  illustrious  daughters,"  and 
wishing  the  whole  family  a  pleasant  journey  thither,  com- 
mended them  to  God.  "  Adios !"  and  the  door  was  closed  a 
little  hastily. 

After  this  interchange  of  compliments,  Don  Caesar  took 
us  to  his  father's  house,  within  the  walls  near  the  convent, 
where  he  gave  us  introductions  to  his  sisters,  cousins,  and 
other  ladies,  all  under  the  excitement  of  the  event  of  the 
day. 

The  old  gentleman  placed,  with  the  usual  Spanish  com- 
pliment, his  house,  and  all  that  it  contained  in  our  hands. 
And  when  I  state,  that  like  Jephtha,  he  "  had  a  daughter  who 
was  passing  fair,"  my  sensations  can  be  imagined,  and  it  may 
be  understood  how  small  a  portion  of  the  "  Casa,"  with  this 
appurtenance,  would  have  satisfied  me. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        105 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Fabrico  del  Tobago— Manufacture  of  the  Cheroot— Description  of  the  process- 
Female  Operatives — Gigantic  effects— Midshipman  attacked — A  delightful  Eve- 
ning— Boat  ahoy— Disappointed  in  trip  to  Lagunade  Bay— Funcion  Familia — 
Madame  Theodore — The  Calcada  again—Margarita— Teatro  Binondo— Teatro 
Tagalo  de  Tondo— Espana— Anecdote  of  an  Englishman— Farewell  to  Manilla 
—Out  to  Sea. 

THE  greatest  curiosity  of  Manilla  is  its  Tobacco  Manufactory, 
or  rattier  the  Segar  Factory,  for  it  is  only  into  segars 
that  the  tobacco  is  made  here.  It  is  a  government  monopoly, 
and  the  revenue  from  it  is  very  great. 

I  forget  the  number  of  segars  said  to  be  made  daily,  but 
there  are  between  eight  and  nine  thousand  women  employed 
solely  for  that  purpose,  and  giving  the  small  average  of 
twelve  segars  to  each,  there  would  be  over  one  hundred  thou- 
sand produced  per  diem  ;  and  yet  the  government  is  unable 
to  meet  the  demand  for  them,  having,  as  I  learned,  orders 
months  ahead. 

The  article  manufactured  is  called  the  Cheroot,  and  is 
made  in  two  different  styles — one  called  Cortada,  from  hav- 
ing both  ends  cut ;  the  other,  Havana,  being  twisted  at  one 
end  like  the  Cuban  segar.  They  have  but  lately  commenced 
to  make  them  in  this  fashion,  and  these  are  put  up  princi- 
pally for  the  California  market,  where  doubtless  they  are  dis- 
posed of  as  the  real  Habana. 
6 


100  Katiiay: 

Cheroots,  in  any  shape,  are  worth  in  Manilla  about  eight 
dollars  per  M.,  subject,  I  believe,  to  a  small  export  duty,  which 
more  than  covers  the  expense  for  boxes,  labels,  and  packing, 
so  that  supposing  each  woman  to  make  the  number  stated 
above,  and  the  whole  force  to  be  employed,  we  have  the  im- 
mense sum  of  eight  hundred  thousand  dollars  worth  of  se  • 
gars  from  this  mammoth  Tobaccary  per  diem.  Each  opera- 
tive receives  one  real  a  day,  but  there  are  others  not  enumer- 
ated in  this  class,  such  as  male  laborers,  overseers,  inspectors, 
accountants,  book-keepers,  <fec,  who  receive  from  twelve  to 
thirty  dollars  per  mensem,  so  that  two  thousand  dollars  daily 
is  not  a  large  estimate  of  wages  paid  out  by  this  estab- 
lishment. 

The  interior  is  divided  into  sections,  of  which  there  are 
nine  or  ten.  In  each  section  from  eight  hundred  to  one 
thousand  women  are  engaged.  At  the  head  of  each  sectional 
division  are  rooms  for  inspection,  where  are  stationed  persons 
to  examine  the  segars,  who  return  those  which  do  not  come 
up  to  a  certain  standard.  Of  those  that  pass  the  test  a  sam- 
ple is  placed,  after  being  marked  and  numbered,  in  a  glass 
case  suspended  in  the  apartment. 

Every  morning  a  certain  quantity  of  tobacco  is  given  to 
each  person,  and  water  is  measured  out  sufficient  to  dampen  it. 
The  operatives  are  held  accountable  for  the  material.  Out  of 
the  number  of  hanks  of  the  leaf  so  many  segars  are  to  be 
produced,  and  if  the  water  is  used  for  any  other  than  the 
specified  purpose,  no  more  can  be  procured.  They  are  said 
to  resort  to  many  ingenious  expedients  to  eke  out  the  allow- 
ance.    From  eight  to  ten  women    are  employed  together, 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        10*7 

squatted  at  a  low  table ;  and  there  are  double  rows  of  these 
tables,  leaving  a  space  to  pass  through  the  centre  of  the 
room.  At  each  table  the  entire  process  of  making  the  che- 
root is  performed.  The  leaf  is  untwisted  from  the  form  into 
which  it  is  fashioned  by  the  grower,  spread  out  and  dampened. 
For  the  purpose  of  flattening  these  leaves  they  are  supplied 
with  stones,  with  which,  and  their  tongues,  an  incessant  and 
most  infernal  clatter  is  kept  up.  One  of  the  party  selects 
and  arranges  the  tobacco,  another  fills  the  segar  and  hands  it 
to  her  neighbor,  who  rolls  it  into  shape  and  passes  it  to  the 
next  person,  who  cuts  it,  and  it  is  thus  quickly  transferred 
from  hand  to  hand,  until  the  care-dispelling  cheroot  is  per- 
fected and  prepared  for  inspection.  As  each  is  completed,  it 
is  dropped  into  a  basket  placed  at  the  end  of  the  table  near- 
est the  passage  way,  from  which  the  cheroots  are  taken  and 
tied  up  into  bundles.  The  Cortada  into  bunches  of  ten.  The 
Havanas  always  in  bundles  of  twenty-five. 

The  factory,  as  may  be  supposed,  is  very  extensive,  and 
covers  a  considerable  area.  The  delineations  of  it  upon  the 
Manilla  segar  boxes,  though  rude,  are  tolerably  good  illustra- 
tions, and  will  convey  some  idea  of  the  appearance  of  the 
building  externally.  But  a  visit  within  its  walls  is  necessary 
to  a  realization  of  its  importance. 

I  am  ignorant  of  the  name  and  title  of  the  Narcotian 
saint  who  has  the  honor  to  preside  over  these  operations,  but 
they  have  images  of  several  stuck  up  in  niches  at  the  en- 
trance to  the  different  sections  ;  and  if  the  sense  of  smelling 
in  their  originals,  be  equal  to  that  of  hearing,  which  has  been 
attributed  to  them,  there  floats  about  them  sufficient  of  the 


108  K  at  hay: 

aroma  of  tobacco  to  gratify  the  nostrils  of  the  most  inveterate 
snuff-taker  that  ever  was  canonized. 

My  companion  on  this  visit  was  the  young  gentleman 
who  slid  into  the  sentimentals,  as  I  have  recorded,  upon  the 
moonlighted  mole.  He  was  born  and  raised  (as  they  say) 
in  the  West ;  nor  did  he  discredit  his  raising,  being  in  the 
proportion  of  every  thing  native  to  that  extensive  country, 
and  six  feet  three  or  four  inches  in  height.  It  was  amusing 
to  notice  the  sensation  he  created  as  he  strode  through  the 
different  apartments.  As  he  approached,  the  clatter  of  both 
tongues  and  stones  ceased,  and  hundreds  of  eyes  would  be 
upraised  to  scan  his  towering  proportions.  They  have  pretty 
black  eyes,  those  Tagalo  girls,  and  exuberant  crops  of  jet 
black  hair  too  ;  but  it  is  coarse,  and  freely  anointed  with  that 
pungent  unguent,  cocoanut  oil !  "  Mira  !  El  Gigante !"  would 
be  ejaculated  in  Spanish,  whilst  no  less  sonorous  notes  of  ad- 
miration would  be  issued  in  the  Tagalo^  dialect. 

Two  Spanish  soldiers  accompanied  us  as  a  guard,  and  I 
doubt  not  but  that  their  presence  prevented  these  unsophisti- 
cated damsels  from  laying  violent  hands  upon  my  virtuous 
friend.  Indeed,  I  was  told  of  an  English  midshipman,  who, 
with  the  usual  assurance  of  his  order,  disdaining  the  protec- 
tion of  a  soldier,  ventured  alone  into  the  midst  of  the  female 
Indian  army,  which,  relying  upon  its  numerical  strength,  and 
either  prompted  by  curiosity,  or  feeling  inclined  to  resent 
such  bold  intrusion,  surrounded  him  and  handled  him  so 
roughly,  that  he  was  obliged  to  "  ignominiously  cry  for 
quarter;1'  and  was  only  released  after  the  loss  of  his  uni- 
form jacket  and  some  other  articles  of  male  attire.    Of  course, 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        109 

we  witnessed  no  demonstration  of  this  kind,  and  I  do  not 
vouch  for  the  truth  of  the  "  yarn" — telling  it  only  "  as  'twas 
told  to  me." 

From  the  segar  factory  to  the  bath,  which,  with  a  change 
of  garments,  found  necessary  to  remove  the  taint  of  tobacco 
obtained  by  remaining  so  long  amidst  such  quantities  of  it. 
Then  a  siesta,  and  after  drove  to  dine  with  our  kind  friends 
who  procured  permits  for  our  admission  to  the  "  Fabrica  del 
Tobago."  After  dinner  to  spend  the  evening  with  a  Spanish 
family  related  to  our  mercurial  friend,  Don  Caesar  de  Bazan. 
Had  dancing,  polkas  and  mazourkas  being  especial  favorites ; 
singing  also,  and  music  from  La  Norma  and  Sonnambula, 
exquisitely  performed.  At  eleven  o'clock  were  forced  to 
tear  ourselves  away  from  as  delightful  a  party  as  it  had  been 
our  lot  to  enjoy  since  we  had  left  our  native  land,  and  pull- 
ing off  in  a  rocking  banca  to  exchange  the  soft  and  liquid 
notes  of  beautiful  Senoras,  for  the  gruff  salute  of  the  sentry. 

Had  been  strongly  pressed  to  make  one  of  a  party  to 
Laguna  de  Bay,  but  coming  on  shore  found  the  day  for  our 
departure  fixed,  and  as  the  party  could  not  be  expected  to 
return  by  that  time,  were  reluctantly  compelled  to  decline. 

Found,  however,  invitations  awaiting  us  for  a  "  Funcion 
Familia"  that  evening,  which  accepted.  Determining  to 
make  the  most  of  the  time  that  remained,  procured  a  "  pis- 
cante"  and  drove  through  the  suburbs.  In  the  u  Escolta" — 
principal  street — found  the  establishment  of  Madame  Theo- 
dore, a  fine-looking  Mestizo  woman,  who  sells  pena  dresses, 
etc.,  and  has  a  splendid  assortment.  She  is  said  to  be 
very  wealthy,  and  though  still  young — a  widow,  and  is  doing 


110  K  a  that: 

a  very  large  business.  Of  course  she  has  plenty  of  suitors, 
and  is  a  match  for  them  all ;  for  she  appears  to  have  attained 
perfection  in  the  art  of  managing  men.  Should  a  college  of 
women  ever  want  a  professor,  she  deserves  a  degree  of  Mis- 
tress of  Arts,  and  would  admirably  fill  the  Chair  of  Co- 
quetry. 

Dined  again  with  our  kind  friends,  and  then  took  a  last 
drive  upon  the  Calcada.  Backwards  and  forwards  along  this 
beautiful  paseo  we  went,  the  moon  lending  her  enchantment, 
and  the  different  bands  filling  the  air  with  ravishing  strains, 
odorous  j)lants  of  the  tropics  lading  it  with  perfumes,  and 
the  dark-eyed  Senoras  reclining  in  their  luxurious  calesas, 
gave  as  good  an  idea  of  a  paradise  of  Mahomet's  order  as 
one  could  wish.  Lingered  here  as  long  as  we  could,  and 
then  off  to  the  "  Funcion,"  where  spent  a  delightful  evening. 
This  was  a  family  dancing  party,  such  as  the  French  describe 
by  the  words  "  Soiree  dansante."  At  it  met  several  of  the 
ladies  we  had  seen  on  Sunday,  after  poor  Maraquita  had 
taken  the  veil.  Were  very  kindly  received,  and  warmly 
greeted  by  the  sunny  smile  and  speaking  eyes  of  Senora 
Margarita.  The  ladies  danced  with  much  grace,  and  entered 
into  the  spirit  of  the  thing  as  if  they  enjoyed  it.  They  were 
in  different  costumes,  and  saw  here  the  only  graceful  exhibi- 
tion of  the  Jaceto  and  Sciar.  Many  of  them  had  no  cover- 
ing to  their  beautiful  little  feet,  excepting  that  magical  slip- 
per named  before,  which  they  managed  to  admiration,  never 
allowing  it  to  lose  its  position,  or  to  touch  the  floor  at  any 
other  part  but  the  toe,  to  which  it  adhered  with  singular  te- 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        Ill 

nacity,  through    the    most    difficult    steps  of  the  whirling 
waltz  or  puzzling  polka. 

The  lovely  daughter  of  the  Don — Margarita,  however,  was 
dressed  in  the  lates^Parisian  fashion,  and  looked  like  an — an- 
gel, I  was  going  to  write,  but  the  recollection  of  that  u  lurking 
devil"  in  her  eye  stayed  the  perjury  of  my  pen.  She  looked 
a  real  bona  fide  woman,  and  a  specimen  of  the  race  I  shall 
be  well  enough  satisfied  with,  until  I  am  assured  beyond  a 
doubt  that  angels  are  feminine,  of  which  there  is  no  proof  in 
either  sacred  or  profane  history  (all  the  illustrations  I  have 
ever  seen  proving  the  contrary) — and  I  can  get  as  close  to 
them  as  I  was  to  Sefiora  Margarita. 

February  22d. — Birthday  of  the  immortal  Washington. 
The  day  appointed  for  sailing  was  fast  approaching,  and 
had  to  make  all  speed  to  get  through  various  engagements 
in  Manilla.  Having  been  informed  that  an  opera  would  be 
performed  on  our  last  evening,  and  opera  being  a  special 
delight,  went  ashore  for  the  purpose  of  attending,  but  on 
arriving  at  the  theatre  found  the  opera  had  been  postponed 
on  account  of  the  primo  tenore  being  afflicted  with  "  boils." 
Had  often  known  broils  to  have  been  the  cause  of  disap- 
pointment to  the  lovers  of  "  Ernani"  and  other  rapturous  re- 
presentative music,  but  here  the  artiste  had  gotten  hot  blood 
into  him,  instead  of  getting  into  hot  water ;  and  thinking  of 
the  patient  man  of  Uz,  I  sympathized  with  him  ;  for,  par 
parenthise,  these  eruptions  of  the  skin  are  exceedingly  sore 
in  this  climate,  as  you  may  find  out  if  you  but  come  to  the 
East  Indies  and  eat  mangoes. 

A  comedy  had  been  substituted,  called  El  lindo  Diego, 


112  Kathay: 

the  part  of  which  we  saw  was  well  performed.  A  disagree- 
able feature,  however,  was  in  the  position  of  the  prompter, 
who  was  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  footlights,  and  kept  up 
a  continuous  recitation  of  the  play  in  a»monotonous  tone, 
which  greatly  marred  the  effect. 

The  Teatro  Binondo,  where  I  saw  this,  is  a  verv  comforta- 
ble  place,  with  good  accommodations,  splendid  box  for  the 
Governor,  fine  airy  saloons,  and  extensive  verandahs.  The 
price  for  admission  was  moderate — sixty-two  and  a  half  cents 
in  United  States  currency. 

Adjourned,  after  witnessing  a  dance  between  the  acts, 
with  castanets,  to  another  place  of  amusement,  the  Teatro 
Tagalo  de  Tonda  (where  the  performance  was  in  the  Indian 
tongue),  which  is  of  a  less  imposing  style,  but  where  they 
get  along  very  well. 

After  stopping  here  a  short  time,  drove  with  Don  Caesar 
to  his  residence  in  the  country,  about  three  miles ;  and  in 
both  going  and  returning  were  hailed  every  square  by  a  sen- 
try, who  will  permit  no  one  to  pass  without  a  response.  The 
watchword  that  night  was  Espana,  which  I  was  compelled  to 
repeat  so  often  that  I  heartily  wished  them  all  in  Spain,  and 
felt  very  much  inclined  to  send  them  all  thither,  or  to  some 
other  warm  climate,  but  that  Don  C.  cautioned  me  not  to 
trifle  with  these  punctilious  privates :  as  on  one  occasion  an 
Englishman,  annoyed  as  I  had  been,  having  answered  the 
fiftieth  hail  disrespectfully,  in  his  own  language,  was  marched 
off  to  the  Calaboose,  where  he  was  detained  all  night,  and 
only  released  the  next  morning  upon  the  payment  of  a  heavy 
fine,  with  the  hint  that  the  next  time  he  insulted  a  Spanish 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.       113. 

soldier,  it  would  be  better  to  use  some  language  he  did  not 
understand.  I,  however,  got  back  safely  to  the  "  San  Fernan- 
do," calling  out  continually,  Presto,  to  the  cochero,  and 
Espana,  to  the  sentries,  and  turned  in.  Next  morning  set- 
tled up  accounts,  and  found  the  item  for  carriage  hire  consid- 
erable, averaging  three  dollars  a  day!  Bidding  adieu  to 
Manilla,  embarked  in  a  banca — Manilla  boat — and  came  on 
board  ship. 

At  meridian  a  salute  was  fired  in  honor  of  the  day,  the 
smoke  from  which  had  hardly  cleared  away  before  the  an- 
chor was  tripped,  and  with  studding-sails  set,  we  were  stand- 
ing down  the  bay,  with  a  fine  leading  wind.  Passed  the 
island  of  Corregidor,  at  its  entrance,  about  sunset ;  and  be- 
fore midnight  had  made  some  fifty  miles  of  an  offing. 


6* 


114  Kathay: 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


Anchor  in  Harbor  of  Hong-Kong— Hastings  and  Herald  both  off— Advantage  of 
Newspapers— A  First-rate  notice— The  Press  of  Victoria — The  Friend  of  Chi- 
na—Its pugnacity — Advertising  Sheets— Description  of  Island — Rain— Charac- 
ter of  Chinese  Inhabitants. 


OUR  passage  to  Hong-Kong  was  unmarked  by  any  inci- 
dent worthy  of  especial  notice;  and  we  reached  that 
harbor  safely  upon  the  second  of  March,  and  came  to  anchor. 
Found  every  thing  in  about  the  same  condition  as  when  we 
left,  and  a  large  fleet  of  merchantmen  in  port ;  but  missed 
the  "Hastings"  from  her  moorings,  as  also  the  "Herald." 
They  both  had  sailed  during  our  absence  :  the  Hastings'  to 
be  roasted  by  the  hot  sun  of  Bombay ;  the  Herald's  to  a 
warm  greeting  in  their  native  isle. 

.  Missed  the  officers  of  these  vessels  very  much ;  for  a 
kindly  feeling  had  sprung  up  amongst  us,  and  interchanges 
of  courtesies  had  made  us  friends.  But  thus  it  is  in  this  rov- 
ing life;  and  it  may  be  best  that  the  acquaintance  thus 
stumbled  upon  remains  but  long  enough  to  please,  and  is 
gone  before  the  gloss  of  novelty  is  rubbed  off, — before  famil- 
iarity deadens  or  destroys  its  first  impression. 

There  is  one  thing  connected  with  this  colony  which  adds 
greatly  to  its  interest  to  a  pereon   coming  from  a  country 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        115 

where  "the  art  preservative  of  all  arts"  sends  the  rays  of 
knowledge  throughout  the  entire  length  and  breadth,  to  all 
classes  and  conditions,  illuminating  as  well  the  squatter's  hut, 
as  the  patrician's  hall.  I  allude  to  the  existence  of  newspa- 
pers. Only  a  person  who  has  been  accustomed  to  them,  as 
we  are  in  the  United  States,  can  appreciate  the  deprivation 
of  this  mental  food,  when  placed  beyond  its  reach,  on  a  for- 
eign station  like  this,  where  a  paper  some  three  months  after 
its  publication  is  seized  upon  with  the  greatest  delight ;  and 
news,  which  at  home  has  long  lost  its  name,  is  devoured  with 
avidity,  and  discussed  as  a  dainty.  How  true  is  it,  that  we 
can  only  appreciate  our  blessings  by  their  loss.  Why,  with 
all  the  arts  lending  their  aid ;  with  steam,  with  electricity, 
with  the  painter's  skill,  condensed  by  the  most  powerful  intel- 
lects; with  midnight  toil,  and  daily  effort  to  produce  that 
"  map  of  busy  life,"  which  is  diurnally,  almost  hourly,  spread 
out  before  us,  and  for  a  consideration,  too,  which  in  many  in- 
stances is  not  equivalent  to  the  cost  of  the  material  upon 
which  it  is  sketched :  with  the  lightning  harmlessly  conduct- 
ing along  the  pliant  wire,  stretched  from  one  end  of  the  con- 
tinent to  the  other,  thoughts  which  have  annihilated  time : 
with  another  element,  which  has  nearly  obliterated  space, 
they  are  spread  over  its  face  ;  and  by  another  application  of 
the  same  magic  power  are  wafted  hundreds  and  hundreds  of 
miles,  and  thrown  upon  your  lap,  damp  and  reeking,  ere  yet 
the  process  has  had  time  to  dry.  If  Faust  was  supposed  to 
have  been  assisted  by  the  Evil  One,  what  would  his  persecu- 
tors have  said,  had  they  been  shown  a  picture  like  this  2 
What  would  they  have  said  ?     Why,  that  even  Satan  him- 


116  Kathay: 

self  possessed  not  such  power,  and  denied  that  to  the  devil, 
which  is  now  accomplished  by  a  poor  devil  of  a  printer ! 
And  yet  how  often  do  we  throw  aside  the  teeming  sheet, 
placed  as  regularly  before  us  as  our  breakfast,  and  declaring 
it  indifferent,  petulantly  begrudge  its  publisher  the  poor  pen- 
ny of  its  price.  Let  the  grumbler  be  stationed  in  these  Chi- 
nese waters  for  two  years  and  upwards,  and  when  he  has  been 
deprived  a  greater  part  of  that  time  of  the  "  Sun,"  that 
awaited  his  pleasure  to  shine,  the  "  Herald,"  ushering  in  the 
morn  at  his  bidding,  the  "  Times,"  that  never  grew  old,  and 
the  "  News,"  expressly  awaiting  his  perusal, — let  him,  I  say, 
after  perusing  papers  that  have  reached  him  in  March,  '51, 
bearing  the  date  of  the  past  Christmas,  pick  up  a  paper  out 
here,  even  if  it  be  a  colonial  one,  upon  the  day  of  its  publi- 
cation, and  he  will  sing,  To  Triumphe,  as  I  did. 

There  are  two  newspapers  printed  in  Victoria  (Hong- 
Kong),  and  both  of  these,  I  believe,  are  bi-weekly.  One  is 
called  the  "  Friend  of  China,  and  Hong-Kong  Gazette ;"  the 
other,  "  The  China  Mail."  The  latter  is  the  government 
organ,  and  has  the  colonial  printing.  The  former  is  indepen- 
dent, and  slashes  away  right  and  left,  sparing  neither  friend 
nor  foe,  and  its  columns  are  always  open  to  complaining  cor- 
respondents. Sir  Geo.  Bonham,  the  Governor,  often  got  se- 
verely handled ;  and  either  because  the  government  laid 
itself  open  to  attack,  or  the  editor  had  some  cause  for  pique, 
it  appeared  to  be  continually  "pitching  into"  it.  Its  articles 
were  bold  and  forcibly  expressed,  and  from  their  tenor  would 
suppose  it  exposed  itself  to  prosecution  for  libel,  but  under- 
stood it  had  steered  clear  of  the  Courts  that  far.     Its  editor 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        117 

shows  a  great  deal  of  industry  and  perseverance  in  its  man- 
agement. His  Marine  List  is  full  and  complete.  Not  only 
does  he  give  the  arrivals  and  departures  of  shipping  at  Hong- 
Kong,  but  at  all  the  other  ports  in  China  waters  ;  also  a  full 
and  corrected  list  of  all  vessels  at  Whampoa,  Shanghae,  and 
Macao,  and  publishes  all  the  information  that  can  be  obtained 
of  the  extensive  commerce  of  this  part  of  the  East,  such  as 
statistics  of  imports  and  exports,  &c,  &c.  His  is  the  ungra- 
cious task  to  reform  abuses  ;  perhaps,  like  Hamlet,  he  thinks 
"  the  times  are  out  of  joint,"  and  he  "  was  born  to  set  them 
right."  Or  it  may  be  that  he  is  influenced  by  the  same  mo- 
tive as  the  Irishman,  who,  upon  the  eve  of  a  presidential  elec- 
tion in  the  United  States,  was  asked  to  cast  his  vote  for  the 
party  which  aspired  to  place  their  candidate  upon  the  chair, 
after  ousting  the  incumbent.  Pat's  first  inquiry  was,  if  it 
was  aginst  the  government  they  wanted  him  to  vote ;  and 
being  told  it  was,  assented,  upon  the  principle  that  he  always 
went  against  the  government. 

In  addition  to  these  there  are  several  advertising  sheets, 
which  are  distributed  gratis,  and  exhibit  the  extensive  trade 
carried  on  by  the  merchants  of  the  colony  and  Canton. 
Even  these  are  interesting,  proving,  as  they  do,  the  indomi- 
table perseverance  of  the  race,  and  bringing  up  pleasant  re- 
membrances by  their  familiar  diction. 

The  island  of  Hong-Kong,  the  original  word  in  the 
Chinese  is  Hoong-Keang,  which  means  "  Red  Harbor,"  is  in 
about  lat.  22°  17 Jl  00'  North,  long.  114°  East,  and  is  one 
of  the  Ladrones,  a  group  of  rocky  islands  which  dot  this  part 
of  Canton  Bay.    In  length  it  is  about  eight  miles,  its  greatest 


118  Kathay: 

breadth  not  more  than  four,  and  it  is  separated  from  the  main- 
land by  an  arm  of  the  sea,  called  the  Lyemoon  Passage,  in 
which  are  several  smaller  islands,  which  vary  its  width,  and 
make  admirable  hiding  places  for  the  pirates,  whose  exist- 
ence has  given  to  this  Archipelago  its  distinctive  title  of 
Ladrone.  In  fact  the  Strait  is  named  after  a  celebrated 
pirate  who  once  commanded  there. 

Upon  the  northern  side  of  this  island  of  Hong-Kong,  is 
the  settlement  called  Victoria,  which,  as  I  have  before  stated, 
is  generally  known  by  the  name  of  the  island,  and  a  reference 
to  it  is  made  in  a  former  page. 

This  island  is  mountainous,  but  contains  many  extensive 
valleys — none  very  remarkable  for  fertility. 

The  mountains  are  formed  of  a  species  of  granite,  the 
greater  part  of  which  is  of  a  crumbling  nature,  and  through 
them  runs  a  stratum  of  a  red  sandy  formation,  which, 
I  suppose,  geologists  would  call  "  poecilitic."  There  are 
occasionally  to  be  found  solid  boulders  of  this  material,  which 
has  been  used  for  building.  But  it  is  to  be  remarked  that 
the  granite  found  in  that  state  is  generally  detached  from 
the  larger  masses,  which  appear  to  be  in  a  state  of  decom- 
position, the  particles  from  which,  washed  down  by  the  heavy 
summer  rains,  are  said  to  add  greatly  to  the  fatality  occa- 
sioned by  the  decimating  properties  of  an  Indian  sun. 

That  old  lady  who  asserted  that  "  it  never  rains  but  it 
pours,"  would  have  been  furnished  with  corroborative  proofs 
had  she  witnessed  some  of  the  pluvial  exhibitions  at  Hong- 
Kong.  It  really  does  pour  on  such  occasions  there.  Talk 
of  the   deluge,  when   the  windows  of  heaven  were  said  to 


A  Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        119 

have  been  opened !  Why  if  that  venerable  dame  could  have 
seen  the  descent  of  these  torrents,  she  would  have  thought 
that  all  obstructing  barriers  of  the  blue  empyrean  had  been 
removed,  and  the  surcharged  clouds  suddenly  overturned, 
and  have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  forty  days  of  such  out- 
pouring would  leave  no  resting-place,  even  upon  the  lofty 
peak  of  Victoria  mountain. 

They  call  the  period  from  June  to  October  the  rainy  sea- 
son, but  I  have  witnessed  extensive  showers  in  nearly  all  the 
intermediate  months.  These  are  sudden  and  overwhelming. 
Instances  are  related  of  Coolies  having  been  caught  in  cur- 
rents rushing  down  the  mountain,  and  drowned  without  the 
possibility  of  assistance. 

In  the  years  1845  and  '6,  from  July  to  January,  within  a 
period  of  six  months,  ten  feet  of  rain  was  measured  by  an 
ombrometer,  having  fallen  at  Hong-Kong. 

The  island  came  into  possession  of  Great  Britain  in  1842 
by  cession,  but  had  been  occupied  on  the  26th  of  January  of 
the  previous  year,  in  consequence  of  a  treaty  which  was  after- 
terwards  rejected  by  the  Emperor.  Great  inducements  were 
held  out  to  Chinese  to  settle  in  Victoria  by  the  British  gov- 
ernment. They  were  guaranteed  all  their  rights  and  privi- 
leges, and  allowed  freedom  in  their  religious  rites,  and  per- 
mitted to  follow  their  own  customs.  These  inducements, 
however,  appeared  to  have  but  little  effect  upon  the  Chinese. 
They  distrusted  the  "  outside  barbarians,"  and  it  was  to  the 
interest  of  the  Mandarins  to  prevent  emigration  to  the  new 
settlement.  At  present  much  of  the  distrust  has  worn  away, 
and  many  have  taken  advantage  of  the  opening  made  by 


120  K  at  hay: 

thriving  trade ;  still  it  must  be  admitted  that  the  majority 
of  Chinamen  to  be  found  in  Hong-Kong,  are  of  the  nature 
of  those  patriots  who  leave  "  their  country  for  their  country's 
good,"  and  the  numbers  seen  in  the  chain  gangs,  show  the 
manner  in  which  they  best  serve  the  State. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        121 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Hong-Kong — Object  of  its  Settlement — Its  service  as  an  Opium  Depot — Views 
of  the  Opium  Trade— Its  History — Considered  the  cause  and  object  of  the  War 
—Treaty  of  Nankin— Opium  Trade  fixed  on  China. 

rpiiE  principal  advantage  possessed  by  Hong-Kong — I 
-■*  shall  designate  the  settlement  henceforth  by  the  name 
assigned  to  it  by  common  consent — is  the  facility  its  position 
affords  for  carrying  on  the  trade  in  opium,  which  deleterious 
drug  will  continue  to  be  introduced  into  China,  in  spite  of 
the  strongest  imperial  edicts,  and  the  severest  denounce- 
ments of  punishment  against  its  consumers,  so  infatuated 
are  its  users,  and  so  governed  by  the  spirit  of  avarice  its  in- 
troducers. 

After  the  celebrated  destruction  of  all  he  could  get  pos- 
session of,  by  Commissioner  Lin,  in  June,  1839,  which 
operated  somewhat  like  the  Frenchman's  revenge  upon  the 
bank,  in  destroying  the  bill  for  which  he  had  been  refused 
specie,  not  only  having  to  be  paid  for  by  the  Chinese,  after 
an  expensive  war,  but  causing  other  imports  of  the  drug  to 
supply  its  place ;  the  English,  naturally  seeking  a  safe  and 
suitable  spot  for  a  depot,  arranged  so  as  to  make  its  cession 
an  article  in  a  treaty  with  High  Commissioner  Keshen,  in 
January,  1841,  which,  although  it  was  abrogated,  and  hos- 


122  Kathay: 

tilities  resumed,  made  but  little  difference  in  the  destinies  of 
Hong-Kong,  for  it  is  well  known  that  wherever  that  nation 
plants  its  foot,  the  marks  of  it  are  not  easily  obliterated. 
There  can  be  little  doubt  but  that  this  was  what  gave  the 
barren  island  more  importance  in  their  eyes,  than  the  more 
healthy  and  fertile  Chousan. 

The  cession  made,  their  great  desire  to  procure  an  emi- 
gration of  Chinese  to  this  point,  proved  a  wish  for  consumers 
and  distributors,  and  the  stationing  at  once  of  receiving  ships 
in  the  Red  Harbor,  disclosed  their  object. 

In  answer  to  orders,  from  Bombay  and  Calcutta  came 
numerous  vessels  which  here  deposited  their  poisonous  car- 
goes, and  returning  for  another  freight,  left  it  to  be  dis- 
tributed by  swift-sailing  and  armed  clippers,  throughout  the 
dominions  of  an  empire  whose  laws  they  had  signed  a 
solemn  compact  to  respect,  which  laws  made  its  delivery  con- 
traband. 

"  But,"  will  exclaim  some,  "  these  were  not  the  acts  of 
the  British  Government.  The  crown  lends  no  aid  to  such  a 
traffic."  Indeed !  then  let  us  say  that  it  is  the  act  of  the 
people  of  a  colony  under  the  fostering  care  of  that  crown, 
with  the  representative  of  the  Queen  directing  its  affairs. 
To  his  lordship's  knowledge,  I  will  not  say  to  his  profit, 
but  certainly  to  the  pecuniary  benefit  of  the  colony,  and 
against  the  most  repeated  protests  of  the  Chinese  Govern- 
ment are  these  imports  and  exports  allowed  and  counte- 
nanced, until  even  good  men  of  their  own  kind  have  called 
out  in  their  midst — proh  pudor  ! 

"  Have  not  the  colonists  a  right  to  import  a  drug,  which 


A    Cruise    in    the   China    Seas.        123 

is  legally  an  article  of  import,  allowed  by  the  crown  ?"  No  ! 
not  for  the  avowed  purpose  of  distributing  it  amongst  a  peo- 
ple, whose  government  protests  against  its  introduction ;  for 
no  opium  dealer  will  pretend  to  assert  that  it  is  for  consump- 
tion by  the  inhabitants  of  Hong-Kong,  or  foreign  residents  of 
Canton,  but  must  admit  that  it  is  brought  expressly  for  tran- 
shipment to  the  coasts  of  China,  at  no  port  of  which  would  it 
be  admitted  upon  the  payment  of  any  duty ;  in  fact,  it  i  s 
contraband !  As  good  a  right  has  the  Frenchman  to  land 
his  Bordeaux  brandy  upon  a  part  of  the  English  coast,  to  evade 
the  customs.  Aye  !  if  you  come  to  that,  a  better  right ;  for 
upon  the  payment  of  a  duty  its  admission  is  not  denied  ;  but 
this  article  is  considered  so  baneful  to  China,  that  no  premi- 
um is  thought  equivalent  to  the  injury  sustained  by  its  intro- 
duction. 

The  argument  advanced  by  interested  persons,  that  sup- 
posing they  did  not  prosecute  the  trade,  others  would  reap  its 
advantages,  bears  its  fallacy  upon  its  face.  For  it  is  not  per- 
mitted to  us  to  profit  by  doing  evil,  for  the  reason  that  the 
possibility  of  performing  the  wicked  act  is  in  the  hands  of 
others. 

The  first  opium  known  in  China  was  grown  in  small 
quantities  in  one  of  its  own  provinces,  that  of  Yunnam,  which 
was  used  medicinally.  It  belonged  to  the  East  India  Com- 
pany first  to  introduce  it  into  the  empire  as  a  luxury ;  for  we 
have  an  account  of  the  importation  of  a  number  of  chests  in 
one  of  its  vessels  from  Bengal  in  1773.  Shortly  after  other 
English  merchants  entered  in  the  trade,  and  two  vessels  were 
stationed  as  receiving  ships,  near  Macao.     By  degrees  these 


124  Kathay: 

opium  dep6ts  were  extended  to  Whampoa,  Lintin,  Cap-sing- 
Moon,  and  other  suitable  places,  until  its  consumption  began 
to  attract  the  notice  of  the  Chinese  government ;  and  in  the 
year  1800  its  importation  was  prohibited  by  a  special  Impe- 
rial edict,  and  measures  were  taken  to  prevent  its  use  through- 
out the  provinces.  But  the  habit  had  become  too  strong  to 
be  controlled,  and  its  consumption  increased,  despite  the  se- 
verest penalties.  Death,  transportation,  confiscation  of  pro- 
perty, could  not  deter  those  upon  whom  the  sight  of  its 
daily  operations  had  no  effect ;  and  the  immense  profits  re- 
alized in  the  sale  caused  those  engaged  in  the  traffic  to  incur 
all  risks. 

From  the  southern,  it  spread  to  the  northern  and  eastern 
coasts.  Receiving  vessels  were  stationed  at  Amoy,  Fuh-Choo, 
Namoa,  and  Woosung,  with  fast  clippers  to  supply  them  from 
the  principal  depot  at  Hong-Kong ;  and  opium  was  smug- 
gled almost  within  the  precincts  of  the  Imperial  Palace. 

The  government  did  all  in  its  power  to  prevent  its  intro- 
duction and  sale,  but  its  efforts  were  fruitless,  until  Commis- 
sioner Lin  was  sent  to  Canton,  empowered  by  the  Emperor 
himself.  By  prompt  and  vigorous  measures,  he  succeeded 
in  obtaining  possession  of  two  thousand  two  hundred  and 
eighty-three  chests,  which  he  publicly  destroyed,  and  which 
act  was  the  cause  of  the  rupture  between  England  and  Chi- 
na, justly  called  the  Opium  War.  This  war  was  continued 
with  much  success  by  the  English,  and  a  great  deal  of  in- 
triguing on  the  part  of  the  Chinese,  until,  on  the  twenty- 
ninth  of  August,  1842,  after  the  British  forces  had  possessed 
themselves  of  nearly  all  the  important  towns  on  the  coast, 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        125 

and  penetrated  the  Chinese  empire  as  far  as  Nankin,  a  treaty 
was  concluded  between  the  two  nations  on  board  H.  B.  M. 
ship  Cornwallis,  which  was  to  take  effect  from  that  date,  after 
being  signed  and  sealed  by  the  Plenipotentiaries  of  the  re- 
spective parties.  By  this  treaty,  five  ports  in  China  were  to 
be  opened  to  British  subjects  for  residence  and  trade.  These 
are  Canton,  Amoy,  Fuh-Choo,  Ning-po,  and  Shanghae  :  six 
millions  of  dollars  paid  as  the  value  of  the  opium  destroyed 
by  Lin  :  the  system  of  Co-Hong  abolished,  and  three  mil- 
lions paid  for  .losses  by  the  Hong  merchants  to  British  sub- 
jects ;  twelve  millions  to  defray  the  expenses  of  the  war ;  and 
the  island  of  Hong-Kong  ceded  for  ever  to  the  British  gov- 
ernment. By  the  cession  of  this  island,  all  future  attempts 
of  the  Chinese  government  to  prevent  the  introduction  of 
opium  are  frustrated.  Previously,  those  who  dealt  in  this 
article  were  confined  to  the  insecure  depot  of  a  receiving 
vessel,  liable  to  attack,  fire,  and  wreck.  Now  they  possess  an 
island  capable  of  a  strong  defence,  where  the  opium  can  be 
imported  in  any  quantity,  under  the  protection  of  the  Eng- 
lish flag,  and  from  whence  it  can  be  exported  at  leisure  to 
any  point  in  China.  Certainly,  by  the  acquisition  of  Hong- 
Kong  the  British  have  secured  this  trade ;  and  henceforth 
the  "  flowing  poison  "  must  spread  from  hence  over  the  length 
and  breadth  of  the  "  Central  Flowery  Land,"  unless  the  Ce- 
lestials, with  one  consent,  should  abandon  its  use, — a  thing 
almost  impossible  to  a  people  once  brought  under  its  influ- 
ence. 

It   has   been   urged  by   Chinese   of  much   shrewdness, 
that  its  importation  as  a  drug  should  be  allowed  under  a 


126  Kathay: 

heavy  duty,  and  that  the  government  thus  secure  a  profit 
from  the  evil;  but  a  former  Emperor  declared  he  could 
never  receive  a  revenue  from  the  misery  of  his  people,  and 
the  present  government  still  perseveringly  opposes  its  use. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        127 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Trip  to  Macko— Disappointed  in  getting  ashore— Mail  arrived— Get  no  Letters- 
Expression  of  Sentiments— Causes  and  Effects— Overland  Mail— Idea  of  a 
Route— Happy  Valley— Chase  of  Pirates— A  Poisson  d'Avril— Into  the  Typa 
again— Arrival  of  Consort— Late  Dates— Catholic  Fete— Depart  for  Shang- 
hae— The  Yang-tse-Kiang— Improvement  in  the  appearance  of  the  Country- 
Better  race  of  Men— Banks  of  the  Woo-sung. 

TOOK  a  trip  over  to  Macao,  for  a  supply  of  provisions,  our 
depot  being  there,  and  having  these  on  board,  back 
again  to  Hong-Kong.  Did  not  get  ashore  at  Macao,  which 
was  somewhat  of  a  disappointment,  as  I  had  some  kind 
friends  there  whom  I  wished  much  to  see,  and  from  whom 
the  cruise  to  Manilla  had  made  the  separation  longer  than 
usual. 

Upon  the  eighteenth  of  March  the  Mail  Steamer  came 
into  Hong-Kong,  with  the  overland  mail.  I  had  been 
anxiously  expecting  its  arrival,  with  letters  for  myself,  but 
was  disappointed,  and  gave  expression  to  my  feelings  in  this 
wise : 

No  news  fom  home  !    My  weary  heart 

Beats  sadly  in  its  prison  cage, 
And  'gainst  its  bars,  with  bound  and  start, 

A  wearing,  useless  war  doth  wage. 
Alone,  alone  !    Its  feeble  song 

Finds  no  responsive,  answering  tone ; 


128  K  ath  ay: 

And  it  hath  sung  in  silence  long, 

And  long,  alas  !  may  sing  alonei 
Oh,  for  a  sound  across  the  main, 

A  note  affection  knows  so  well ; 
That  it  might  dream  of  heaven  again, 

That  peace  again  with  it  might  dwell ; 
And  joy  delayed,  at  last  may  come, 
In  cheerful,  happy  news  from  home. 

After  this  felt  somewhat  relieved ;  for  the  mind  is  like 
the  body,  and  mental,  as  well  as  physical  suffering,  must 
have  vent.  A  twinge  of  a  tooth  brings  forth  a  groan  ;  a 
twitch  of  the  heart-strings  produces  poetry  in  me :  have 
only  to  hope  the  poetry  may  not  have  the  effect  of  the 
toothache  upon  the  reader. 

The  overland  mail  is  brought  across  the  desert  by  the 
Isthmus  of  Suez,  and  reaches  Hong-Kong  in  about  forty-five 
days  from  England,  and  brings  dates  from  the  United  States 
in  from  60  to  70  days,  depending  upon  the  junction  of  the 
Atlantic  steamers.  Letters  by  it  can  either  be  sent  via  South- 
ampton, England,  or  Marseilles,  France ;  the  latter  is  consid- 
ered the  swiftest  route,  the  former  the  most  secure. 

Monsoons  in  the  China  Sea  affect  its  transit  on  that  end 
of  the  line,  and  letters  have  been  known  to  have  reached 
Hong-Kong  from  New- York  during  a  favorable  monsoon 
within  60  days. 

Since  the  acquisition  of  California,  our  government  pos- 
sesses a  much  speedier  route,  and  would  find  it  greatly  to  her 
interest  to  establish  a  line  by  any  of  the  overland  routes  across 
the  Isthmus  of  Darien,  and  from  thence  by  steam  to  Shang- 
hae,  or  even  Hong-Kong  in  China ;  and  I  do  not  despair  of 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        129 

seeing  the  time  when  letters  will  be  delivered  in  these  ports 
within  forty  days,  from  the  Atlantic  cities.  Our  growing  in- 
terests in  this  section  of  the  globe  demand  attention  and 
some  arrangement  of  this  kind. 

Remained  moored  in  the  harbor  of  Hong-Kong  until  the 
second  day  of  April,  visiting  the  town  occasionally,  and  stroll- 
ing over  the  hills  for  exercise. 

They  have  some  very  fine  roads  for  drives,  cut  at  a  con- 
siderable expense  through  hills  and  boulders  of  granite.  The 
"  Victoria  Road"  leads  out,  about  four  miles  to  a  place  called 
East  Point,  and  upon  it,  about  two  miles  from  the  town,  is  a 
fine  race-course.  This  course  has  been  gotten  up  by  subscrip- 
tion, and  is  situated  in  a  large  and  beautiful  valley,  called 
"  Happy  Valley."  It  is  well  named,  if  beauty  can  confer 
happiness,  and  it  certainly  is  a  principal  ingredient,  for  has 
not  a  poet  said 


;  A  thing  of  beauty  is  a  joy  forever. 


Here  are  held  periodical  races,  and  the  sport  is  much  en- 
joyed, as  it  always  is  by  Englishmen.  No  climate  is  too  hot, 
none  too  cold  to  prevent  it,  and  these  trials  of  speed  are  char- 
acteristic of  the  nation.  The  Spaniard  will  have  his  bull- 
fight, the  Mexican  pits  his  cocks,  but  John  Bull  selects  the 
noblest  of  quadrupeds,  and  -infuses  into  him  his  own  emula- 
tion for  superiority. 

Upon  the  evening  of  the  31st  of  March,  had  a  little  ex- 
citement to  destroy  the  monotony  of  a  life  on  shipboard.     A 
report  was  circulated  that  a  band  of  pirates  had  smuggled 
7 


130  Kathay: 

themselves  on  board  the  P.  &  O.  Company's  steamer  "  Hong- 
Kong,"  which  had  left  that  day  for  Canton. 

These  boats  are  in  the  habit  of  taking  Chinese  passengers 
at  one  dollar  a  head,  a  very  low  rate,  and  as  such,  it  was  said 
a  number  of  desperadoes,  armed,  had  embarked  in  her. 

H.  B.  M.  screw  propeller  "  Reynard,"  immediately  got  up 
steam,  thirty  men  and  officers  from  our  ship  were  transferred 
to  the  little  American  steamer  "Spark,"  and  both  vessels 
started  in*hot  pursuit. 

The  Reynard  stopped  at  the  Bogue,  and  her  boats  pro- 
ceeded to  scour  those  waters,  whilst  the  Spark  proceeded  up 
the  Canton  river.  She  had  not  far  to  go,  however,  for  about 
midnight  the  return  steamer  was  hailed,  which  reported  hav- 
ing passed  the  "  Hong-Kong,"  all  right.  So  both  vessels  re- 
turned to  Hong-Kong,  upon  the  morning  of  the  first  of 
April. 

But  although  the  coincidence  was  ominous,  they  could 
not  truly  be  said  to  have  caught  a  "poisson  (Tavril"  for  there 
was  doubtless  a  design  against  the  steamer,  which  had  on 
board  a  large  amount  of  treasure,  and  some  of  these  China- 
men were  afterwards  tried  and  condemned  at  Hong-Kong, 
for  the  attempt.  Want  of  unanimity  or  some  other  cause 
having  defeated  their  purpose. 

Upon  the  second  of  April,  left  for  Macao,  there  to  await 
the  arrival  of  our  consort.  Tried  to  get  into  our  old  anchor- 
age in  the  Typa,  and  stuck  upon  the  mud-bank  again,  where 
we  remained  until  the  fourth  morning,  kedging,  hauling  and 
warping,  when  succeeded  in  getting  afloat  hy  pumping  out 
the   water,  and  transferring  shot,  &c,  into  a  lorcha.     After 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        131 

reaching  the  anchorage,  hoisted  the  Portuguese  flag,  and  fired 
a  salute  of  21  guns  in  honor  of  the  birthday  of  the  Queen 
of  Portugal. 

Upon  the  8th  instant,  our  consort  arrived,  and  anchored 
in  the  outer  roads ;  by  her  I  received  old  newspapers,  and  a 
letter  seven  months  and  seventeen  days  after  date. 

Had  been  ashore  several  times  in  Macao,  but  found  little 
to  interest  me  until  the  evening  before  Good  Friday,  when 
there  was  a  general  turn  out  of  the  inhabitants,  and  all  the 
churches  were  brilliantly  illuminated,  and  the  altars  decked 
with  flowers.  Crowds  went  from  one  church  to  the  next,  and 
the  principal  object  appeared  to  be  that  of  visiting  each  and 
every  church,  a  continuous  stream  being  kept  up  between  them. 

Upon  Good  Friday  the  tragedy  of  the  death  of  our  Sa- 
viour was  performed  at  the  cathedral.  After  the  crucifixion, 
the  body  was  removed  from  the  cross,  and  carried  upon  a 
bier,  through  the  different  streets  in  solemn  procession.  First 
came  the  host  with  its  usual  attendants,  then  followed  the 
"  accursed  tree"  with  the  bloody  garment  of  Christ  upon  it. 
After  it  came  ten  beautiful  children,  personating  angels ;  then 
was  borne  a  waxen  image  to  represent  the  corpse,  followed  by 
the  virgin  mother,  and  immediately  succeeding  the  two  other 
Marys.  The  bishop  and  suite  were  next,  then  the  troops  of 
the  garrison,  with  arms  reversed,  and  mournful  music ;  the 
rear  being  brought  up  by  male  citizens  in  mourning  dresses 
and  heads  uncovered.  In  this  line  of  march  the  procession 
moved  through  the  principal  streets,  and  back  to  the  cathe- 
dral, where  the  body  was  placed  in  the  tomb  with  solemn 
ceremony. 


132  Kathay: 

On  the  first  day  of  the  week  the  resurrection  was  cele- 
brated with  appropriate  m  joyful  demonstration.  At  night, 
maskers  went  about  the  streets,  stopping  at  intervals  to  have 
a  dance,  and  entering  houses,  where  after  going  through  a 
performance,  they  would  partake  of  refreshments. 

Left  Macao  for  Shanghae  on  the  25th  of  April,  to  beat 
up  the  China  Sea  against  a  strong  N.  E.  monsoon.  In  this 
passage  our  craft  behaved  remarkably  well,  and  although 
quite  wet,  held  her  own,  and  diligently  ploughed  her  way 
through  all  difficulties,  amongst  not  the  least  obstructing  was 
a  heavy  head  sea,  which  made  her  very  uncomfortable,  also 
greatly  impeded  her  progress. 

Made  the  islands  off  the  mouth  of  the  Yansr-tse-Kianrr 
on  the  12th  of  May,  and  came  to  anchor  in  the  river  that 
night.  Found  the  current  very  strong,  and  the  wind  being 
ahead,  had  to  await  a  change  of  tide. 

Weighed  anchor  with  the  first  setting  in  of  the  flood, 
and  got  about  eight  miles  up  the  river,  when  had  to  let  it  go 
again.  Thus  we  continued  until  the  14th,  when  had  worked 
our  way  into  the  Woo-Sung  or  Shanghae  river,  where,  al- 
though the  breeze  was  favorable,  the  water  shoaled  so  sud- 
denly, that  we  were  forced  to  come  to,  just  above  the  village 
of  Woo-Sung.  The  Woo-Sung  river  empties  into  the  Yang- 
tse-Kiang  about  40  miles  from  its  confluence  with  the  ocean, 
and  the  city  of  Shanghae  is  situated  upon  the  Woo-Sung, 
about  three  leagues  above  its  junction  with  the  Yang-tse- 
Kiang,  which  is  one  of  the  largest  rivers  in  China,  and  washes 
the  walls  of  the  'city  of  Nankin,  formerly  the  southern  capi- 
tal of  the  Empire. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.       133 

Nankin  is  laid  down  in  latitude  32°  h1  1ST.,  longitude 
119°  E.,  and  is  about  50  leagues  from  the  ocean. 

The  meaning  of  the  words  Yang-tse-Kiang,  is,  Child  of 
the  Ocean,  or  more  literally,  "  Son  of  the  Sea ;"  it  is  about 
two  thousand  five  hundred  miles  in  length,  and  its  breadth 
and  capacity  entitle  it  to  the  classification  of  the  third  river 
of  the  world.* 

As  we  ascended  the  "Woo-Sung,  found  a  marked  differ- 
ence in  the  face  of  the  country.  Our  former  stations  in 
China  had  been  amongst  the  rocky  hills  of  the  southern 
Archipelago,  which  scarcely  allowed  the  smallest  shrub  to 
take  root  upon  their  barren  sides,  and  the  sight  of  trees  had 
become  rare  to  us.  But  here,  upon  either  side,  was  stretch- 
ed out  a  beautiful  green  plain,  giving  evidence  of  the  most 
industrious  cultivation,  protected  from  encroachments  of  the 
river  by  strong  and  broad  levees.  Substantial,  comfortable 
farm-houses  meeting  the  eye  in  every  direction,  supplied  the 
places  of  the  insecure  huts  of  the  fishermen.  Fruit  trees 
were  abundant,  and  the  general  aspect  gave  evidence  of  a 
genial  soil,  aiding  the  efforts  of  the  provident  husbandman. 

The  men,  too,  whom  we  could  see  at  work  beyond  the 
embankments,  were  of  a  larger  stature,  and  had  a  more 
healthy  appearance  than  their  southern  brethren.  Their 
complexions  were  of  a  lighter  hue,  and  here,  for  the  first 
time,  I  saw  a  Chinaman  with  rosy  cheeks. 

*  An  English  tourist,  who  found  himself  upon  the  Yang-tse-Kiang, 
compared  it  with  the  Thames,  admitting  its  superiority.  I,  as  a 
Yankee,  compare  it  with  my  own  Mississippi ;  and  place  it  next  in 
rank  to  the  "Father  of  waters,"  to  which  stream  it  hears  some  re- 
semblance. 


134  Kathay: 

The  invigorating  effects  of  a  northern  climate  were  fully 
proven  in  the  appearance  of  these  people.  They  seemed 
to  enjoy  the  roughest  health,  and  were  free  from  that  care- 
worn look  of  the  Chinese  about  Canton.  They  were  clad 
more  entirely  than  these  also,  and  wore  more  of  woollen  in 
the  material  of  their  garments.  Chow-chow  appeared  more 
abundant,  and  the  children  were  the  fattest  little  rascals  I 
have  ever  seen.  But  I  cannot  commend  them  for  cleanli- 
ness, and  must  admit  that  their  countrymen  nearer  the  sea 
make  a  better  use  of  that  cleansing  element, — possibly  be- 
cause it  was  spread  before  them  in  larger  quantities. 

It  was  in  the  spring-time,  in  the  "  merrie  month  of  May," 
when  we  approached  Shanghae  ;  eveiy  thing  was  in  bloom. 
There  had  been  the  usual  spring  rains,  and  the  weather  had 
settled  down  to  that  delightful  temperature,  which  has  such 
a  cheering  effect  upon  the  spirits.  And  as  we  dodged  the 
tides  in  the  winding  Woo-Sung,  spots  would  be  descried 
which  brought  to  mind  some  similar  scenes  at  home  :  these 
would  be  pointed  out.  Another  would  find  a  resemblance 
in  some  grove,  plantation,  or  clump  of  trees ;  and  thus  its 
banks  were  made  sacred,  and  our  Lares  and  Penates  jostled 
the  household  gods  that  presided  there. 


A    Cruise    if    the    China    Seas.        135 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Shanghae— Immense  number  of  Junks— Foreign  Residences— Novelty  of  Chim- 
neys— Revolting  appearance  of  Beggars — Undertakers — Price  of  Coffins — De- 
cline Trading— Description  of  City— Stagnant  Pools— Tea  Gardens— Sweet 
Site — The  Taoutae— Advantages  of  Shanghae— Departure— Ship  Ashore  ! — 
Sensation. 

SHANGHAE  is  situated  in  about  30°  26'  N.  latitude  ; 
longitude  120°  48' East.  Reached  it  on  the  16th  of 
May,  and  came  to  anchor  about  one  mile  below  its  walls,  off 
the  dwellings  of  the  foreign  residents.  As  we  approached, 
were  struck  with  the.  appearance  of  a  forest  of  masts,  be- 
longing to  junks  in  front  of  the  city ;  in  fact,  these  were  all 
we  could  see,  as  they  completely  shut  out  a  view  of  the  city 
from  our  position. 

Although  suffering  from  sickness,  could  not  resist  the 
desire  to  get  on  shore,  and  accordingly  landed  amongst  the 
residents'  houses  the  first  opportunity.  These  are  built  en- 
tirely in  the  European  style,  and  some  of  them  present  a  fine 
appearance.  The  climate  in  the  winter  season  compelling 
the  use  of  fire,  they  are  all  provided  with  chimneys,  which 
was  a  feature  remarkable  at  once,  it  being  unusual  on  the 
southern  coast.  From  these  houses,  as  you  approach  the 
city,  you  enter  upon  a  scene  of  filth  and  dirt  indescribable, 
and  have  to  pass  through  a  line  of  beggars,  who  exhibit  the 


136  Kathay: 

most  loathsome  and  revolting  sores,  to  excite  the  pity  of  the 
passer-by. 

In  approaching  the  city,  had  to  skirt  a  graveyard,  where 
the  coffins  are  placed  above  ground,  and  left  there  until  their 
contents  are  decomposed,  when  they  are  removed,  to  make 
place  for  others.  In  the  neighborhood  are  numerous  coffin 
makers,  and  the  trade  appears  to  be  thriving,  from  the  num- 
bers engaged  at  it.  Our  guide  informed  me  that  I  could 
procure  one  of  these  "  accommodations "  at  prices  varying 
from  five  to  five  hundred  dollars.  I  declined  trading  for 
them,  however,  considering  that  a  negotiation  to  be  entered 
into  by  "  sorrowing  friends." 

Entered  the  city  through  a  double  gateway,  having  had 
to  cross  a  fetid,  shallow  ditch  before  the  walls. 

Shanghae  is  a  walled  city,  and  in  its  appearance  much 
like  other  Chinese  towns,  only  it  was  more  filthy  than  any  I 
had  yet  visited.  Crossed  a  number  of  stagnant  pools,  over 
bridges  much  too  good  for  such  stinking  streams,  being,  in 
their  architecture,  entirely  out  of  keeping  with  the  other 
properties.  Saw  a  great  many  Tea  Gardens,  where"  the  tea 
was  dispensed  by  the  cup ;  and  when  a  Chinaman  called 
for  a  cup,  it  was  perhaps  in  the  same  spirit  that  some  of  our 
country  men  demand  a  "  smaller  "  of  brandy,  rum,  or  gin, 
though  the  Celestial  certainly  imbibes  the  least  noxious  po- 
tion. One  of  these  gardens  formed  the  centre  of  a  stagnant 
pool,  and  was  reached  by  bridges  from  different  points.  A 
fantastic-looking  temple  appeared  the  rendezvous,  and  upon 
the  whole  the  effect  would  have  been  pleasing,  but  for  that 
sickly  green  water. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        137 

Visited  several  shops,  and  made  a  few  purchases  of  "  cu- 
rios" and  was  then  perfectly  satisfied  to  get  out  of  such  a 
filthy  hole. 

The  day  after  his  arrival,  our  commander  and  suite  paid 
an  official  visit  to  the  Taoutae, — Lead  man  of  the  district, — 
and  was  well  received.  The  Chinese  who  held  this  office 
had  been  an  old  Hong  merchant  at  Canton.  He  gave  the 
entertainment  in  the  European  style  ;  and  from  having  con- 
sorted so  much  with  "  Fankwies,"  in  his  former  capacity,  he 
was  quite  at  home ;  but  you  may  depend  upon  it,  it  is 
always  with  much  reluctance  that  these  Celestial  citizens  o 
the  Central  Flowery  Land  dispense  with  any  of  their  customs 
in  our  favor ;  and  when  they  do  condescend  to  lay  aside 
their  chop-sticks,  and  use  the  knife  and  fork,  there  is  policy 
in  it.  What  was  the  object  in  this  instance,  further  than  to 
honor  a  nation  where  "  gold  grows,"  I  did  not  ascertain.  But 
we  have  undoubtedly  risen  greatly  in  their  estimation  since 
the  acquisition  of  California,  and  the  appearance  of  our  mag- 
nificent clipper  ships  in  their  waters. 

The  day  following  His  Excellency,  the  Taoutae,  sent  on  board 
numerous  presents,  amongst  which  were  some  early  fruit, 
sweetmeats,  and  two  very  fine  sheep.  These  latter,  of  the 
celebrated  Shanghae  breed,  were  the  finest  specimens  I  have 
seen  for  a  long  time  ;  and  the  most  striking  peculiarity  about 
them  was  the  preponderance  of  fat  to  their  caudal  extremi- 
ties, the  tail  of  each  being  of  an  entirely  different  formation 
from  that  of  the  European  breed ;  and  I  can  compare  it  to 
nothing  better  than  an  immense  woolly  mop,  "  in  the  place 

where  the  tail  ought  to  grow."     I  do  not  know  if  any  of 

7* 


138  Kathay: 

these  sheep  have  ever  been  imported  int  >  the  United  States, 
or  whether  they  would  endure  the  voyage,  but  understood 
the  stock  is  not  considered  equal  to  our  own.  These  cer- 
tainly were  covered  with  heavy  coats  of  wool :  of  its  quality  I 
was  unable  to  judge,  having  confined  my  examination  en- 
tirely to  what  lay  beneath,  which  I  can  unhesitatingly  pro- 
nounce to  be  as  good  mutton  as  I  had  ever  eaten. 

A  very  short  stay,  and  an  attack  of  sickness,  prevented 
me  from  exploring  much  of  Shanghae,  or  its  environs,  and  I 
learned  there  are  a  thousand  things  worth  seeing. 

The  Chinese  call  this  province  the  Paradise  of  China, 
and  if  I  am  not  mistaken,  the  word  has  this  signification 
when  interpreted:  and  they  have  a  proverb,  which  runs 
in  this  wise  :  "  See  Shanghae,  and  die."  I  came  very  near 
acting  up  to  their  advice,  for  after  seeing  what  is  previously 
written,  I  was  taken  seriously  ill ;  so  that,  had  our  stay  been 
prolonged,  I  would  have  been  unable  to  have  gone  on  shore, 
unless,  indeed,  in  one  of  their  fancy  coffins  ! 

Learned,  however,  from  one  of  the  officers  of  Her  Majes- 
ty's brig  "  Contest,"  who  had  been  stationed  here  some  time, 
that  the  climate  is  delightful  to  those  who  are  able  to  with- 
stand the  cold  of  the  winters  ;  that  the  features  of  the  coun- 
try have  not  been  misstated,  but  are  equal  to  any  represen- 
tation made  ;  that  game  is  at  all  times  abundant,  especially 
in  autumn,  when  fine  sport  is  to  be  obtained  by  those  who 
handle  "  mantons "  with  even  moderate  skill ;  furthermore, 
the  followers  of  quaint  old  Isaac,  the  ancient  angler,  need 
but  a  tithe  of  his  art  to  tempt  the  piscatory  tribe  from  their 
native   element.     But  he  did  affirm    that   in   midsummer, 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        139 


o 


the  mercury  in  the  tube  scarcely  ever  gets  below  100 
Fahrenheit,  and  the  action  of  the  sun's  rays  upon  the  stag- 
nant water  before-named,  gives  such  an  intimation  to  the 
nostrils  of  the  state  of  the  atmosphere,  as  to  render  the  use 
of  the  eudiometer  unnecessary. 

Got  under  way  from  our  moorings  early  in  the  morning 
of  Monday  the  19th,  and  dropped  down  with  the  tide ;  getting 
out  of  the  Woo-Sung,  anchored  in  the  Yang-tse-Kiang,  on  the 
20th,  passed  Saddle  Island,  and  dismissing  the  pilot,  headed 
for  Amoy,  at  which  port  we  were  to  look  in  on  our  return. 

"We  had  proceeded  along  pretty  well  until  the  morning  of 
the  27th,  when  about  three  o'clock  in  the  morning  watch, 
as  I  was  lying  awake  in  my  apartment,  heard  the  officer  of 
the  deck  give  the  order  for  tacking  ship — "  Ready  about" — 
and  after  the  boatswain's  pipe  to  "  Stations."  "  Ready,  ready," 
when  she  received  a  shock,  as  from  the  concussion  of  a  heavy 
sea,  then  another,  and  another,  which  soon  convinced  me  that 
the  ship  was  ashore.  This  was  certainly  unpleasant,  as  I  had 
no  doubt  but  that  we  were  at  that  time  twenty  miles  from  land, 
and  the  idea  of  a  coral  reef  in  that  position,  wras  premoni- 
tory of  a  salt-water  bath.  Before  the  call  of  "All  hands  save 
ship,"  was  given,  I  was  upon  deck,  and  found  that  she  had 
grounded  upon  a  bank  on  the  northern  coast  of  the  island  of 
Formosa,  having  been  swept  by  an  unusual  current  over 
thirty  miles  in  the  course  of  twelve  hours,  an  event  altogether 
unlooked  for,  and  which  would  have  baffled  the  skill  of  the 
most  experienced  navigator ;  our  chart,  upon  examination,  also 
proving  to  be  incorrect.  Luckily  it  was  ebb  tide  when  she 
went  on,  and  after  getting  out  all  the  boats,  and  lightening 


140  Kathav: 

the  ship  by  throwing  overboard  shot  and  starting  water,  she 
was  got  off,  after  having  been  aground  about  eight  hours,  and 
thumping  terribly. 

It  was  the  first  time  I  had  ever  felt  the  effects  of  a  heavy 
sea  upon  a  ship  ashore,  and  never  wish  to  experience  them 
again. 

With  our  armament  and  stores  we  were  probably  as 
heavily  laden  as  a  merchant  vessel  of  greater  tonnage  would 
have  been  with  cargo,  but  being  more  strongly  built,  were  of 
course  better  able  to  withstand  the  shocks. 

Every  time  she  struck,  the  top-gallant  masts  would  sway 
like  saplings,  and  the  ship  tremble  throughout  her  whole 
frame,  indeed,  a  homely  remark  of  one  of  her  crew  wras  very 
expressive  of  her  condition :  "  Why  the  old  ship  has  got  the 
hiccups,"  and  her  motions  were  truly  resembling  those  of  a 
human  being  in  convulsive  throes. 

Notwithstanding  we  got  off  so  easily,  yet  our  situation 
had  in  it  much  of  peril,  and  we  were  at  one  time  in  some 
danger. 

The  inhabitants  of  this  part  of  Formosa  are  savages,  some 
say  cannibals.  They  had  gathered  in  great  number's  on  the 
beach,  some  two  or  three  thousands,  and  appeared  divided 
into  different  clans,  awaiting  our  breaking  up.  Had  we 
fallen  into  their  hands,  defenceless,  there  was  but  little  chance 
of  escaping,  so  greatly  did  they  outnumber  our  crew. 

As  it  was,  we  got  off  barely  in  time,  for  it  commenced 
to  u  blow  great  guns  "  about  the  time  we  got  afloat,  which 
created  such  a  sea  as  would  soon  have  knocked  us  to  pieces, 
and  even  before  we  had  way  on,  the  surf  was  beating  so  vio- 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        141 

lently  upon  the  beach,  as  to  have  precluded  all  possibility  of 
reaching  the  shore  in  an  armed  body. 

Under  double-reefed  topsails  we  beat  over  to  Amoy,  and 
the  next  morning  made  the  entrance  to  that  port,  but  had  to 
stand  off  and  on  the  whole  day  and  night,  the  sea  being  so 
high  as  to  make  it  dangerous  to  attempt  to  enter  the  harbor. 


142  Kathay 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Amoy — Its  Trade — Cause  of  Decay — Infanticide— Manner  of  destroying  Female 
Infants— China  Woman's  Confession— Environs— British  and  American  Ceme- 
teries— The  Fatal  Rock — Koo-lung-Seu — Chinese  Gunnery— Chinese  Customs 
—Mai  riage— Death— Manner  of  Mourning— Pagoda  of  Nan-tae-Woo-Shan. 

ON  the  morning  of  the  29th  of  May,  came  into  the  port  of 
Amoy  and  anchored.  Communicated  with  our  Consul, 
who  stated  that  our  commerce  was  very  small  at  that  point, 
and  although  it  is  connected  with  the  tea  district,  but  five 
American  vessels  had  entered  the  port  for  the  past  two 
years. 

Of  all  the  "  five  ports,"  Amoy  appears  to  have  the  least 
foreign  trade,  and  notwithstanding  its  contiguity  to  the  region 
of  China,  in  which  its  principal  article  of  export  is  produced, 
enjoys  but  little  commerce. 

This  is  in  a  measure  to  be  attributed  to  the  difficulty  of 
entering  its  bay  at  all  seasons,  but  is  mainly  caused  by  the 
apathy  and  lack  of  enterprise  of  its  inhabitants.  They  ap- 
pear to  be  less  disposed  to  trade  with  foreigners  than  any 
other  Chinese  we  visited,  and  in  their  shops  were  perfectly 
indifferent  whether  we  became  purchasers  or  not,  using  no 
exertions  to  effect  sales.  This  was  so  opposite  to  what  we 
had  always  found  to  be  a  prominent  feature  of  Chinese  char- 
acter as  to  excite  remark.     In  Canton,  Macao,  and  Shang- 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        143 

hae,  they  had  pressed  their  wares  upon  us,  but  in  Amoy  you 
might  examine  the  contents  of  a  shop,  without  being  impor- 
tuned to  purchase  a  single  article. 

The  principal  trade  appeared  to  be  in  opium.  There 
were  two  receiving  ships  in  the  bay,  and  from  the  general 
appearance  of  the  people,  would  be  led  to  suppose  that  a 
great  deal  of  it  was  smoked  by  them,  and  this  accounted  for 
their  apathy  and  want  of  energy. 

It  must  end  so,  that  this  opium  trade  will  be  the  ruin  of 
China,  for  in  its  use  it  not  only  enervates  the  people,  but  it  is 
procured  by  draining  the  country  of  the  precious  metals,  and 
it  may  be  fairly  stated,  that  for  every  ounce  of  opium  brought 
into  the  country,  nearly  its  weight  in  Sycee  silver  has  been 
extracted* 

The  town  of  Amoy  presents  the  same  features  as  Shang- 
hae,  and  other  Chinese  cities :  streets  narrow  and  filthy,  and 
dirt  abundant,  an  equal  number  of  offensive  smells  pervade 
the  atmosphere,  and  as  many  disgusting  sights  offend  the 
eye ;  beggars,  to  be  sure,  are  not  so  common  as  at  Shanghae, 
but  the  inhabitants  have  a  squalid  look,  as  if  too  lazy  to  beg. 
Infanticide — or  if  I  may  be  allowed  to  coin  a  word  for  this 
peculiar  kind  of  child  murder  on  account  of  its  being  con- 
fined entirely  to  the  female  sex — "  Puellacide  "  is  said  to  pre- 
vail to  a  greater  extent  in  this  region  than  even  in  Canton 
itself.  Whilst  sons  are  considered  an  honor,  and  their  growth 
looked  upon  as  a  matter  of  profit,  the  giving  birth  to  a 
daughter  is  proportionably  a  disgrace,  and  the  rearing  of  it 
a  disadvantage,  consequently  the  female  infant  is  generally 
allowed  but  a  few  moments  existence  in  "this  breathing 


144  Kathay: 

world,"  and  is  usually  strangled  by  the  hands  of  its  unnatu- 
ral mother  immediately  upon  its  birth.  The  manner  in 
which  this  act  is  said  to  be  performed,  is  by  filling  up  the 
mouth  of  the  babe  with  rice,  and  holding  its  nostrils  closed 
with  the  hand  until  suffocation  is  produced. 

It  is  hard  to  suppose  that  a  mother  can  thus  act  towards 
her  offspring,  but  it  is  known  to  be  too  true,  and  it  may  be  a 
better  fate  than  is  reserved  for  many  of  the  sex  whose  lives 
have  been  spared,  for  so  useless  an  incumbrance  are  females 
considered  in  the  families  of  the  lower  orders,  and  so  little 
regard  have  their  parents  for  them,  that  even  before  they 
grow  up,  they  are  often  sold  for  the  worst  purposes. 

A  Chinese  woman,  who  had  been  converted  to  Chris- 
tianity, confessed,  that  in  her  ignorance,  she  had^destroyed 
seven  of  her  own  infants,  females  of  course,  not  considering 
the  custom  of  her  country,  at  that  time,  a  crime. 

Although  there  is  but  little  to  interest  one  in  the  town  of 
Amoy,  there  are  several  pleasant  places  in  its  vicinity.  Yet 
every  where  appeared  the  evidence  of  "  decay's  effacing  fin- 
gers." On  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay  was  once  a  flourishing 
site,  which  previous  to  the  attack  of  the  English  had  been 
the  residence  of  the  wealthier  citizens,  mandarins,  etc. 
When  the  British  troops  invested  this  place,  they  occupied 
these  buildings  as  barracks  ;  and  being  withdrawn  after  the 
treaty,  left  them  in  a  ruinous  condition.  They  have  not 
been  used  since,  and  the  large  gardens,  evidently  at  one 
time  cultivated  with  much  taste,  have  now  run  to  waste.  In 
these  were  romantic  grottoes,  in  which  are  curiously  carved 
resting-places,  cut  out  of  the  rock. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China   Seas.        145 

The  English  burial  ground  is  in  this  neighborhood ;  it  is 
a  small  place,  and  walled  in.  The  mortality  amongst  the 
troops  was  very  great  during  the  occupancy  of  this  place, 
and  this  area  is  said  to  contain  over  a  regiment  of  soldiers. 

The  American  cemetery  is  more  prepossessing  in  ap- 
pearance. It  is  situated  in  a  picturesque  valley,  full  of 
beautiful  trees,  and  did  not  contain  many  graves.  From  it 
there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  bay  and  islands,  and  the  city  of 
Amoy. 

In  crossing  the  bay  on  our  return,  there  was  pointed  out 
a  singularly  shaped  rock  in  height  about  thirty  feet,  with  a 
narrow  base,  and  swelling  out  as  it  ascended,  in  appearance 
similar  to  a  boy's  top.  The  Chinese  have  a  startling  pro- 
phecy connected  with  it,  which  is,  that  when  it  shall  fall, 
the  present  dynasty  of  China  will  also  decline ;  reminding 
one  of  the  Latin  saying,  "  When  falls  the  Coliseum,  Rome 
shall  fall."  But  Rome  has  fallen,  and  the  Coliseum  still 
stands !  "Will  the  parallel  hold  good  between  this  rock  and 
China  ?  The  island  of  Koo-lung-Seu,  when  the  British  made 
the  attack  upon  Amoy,  appears  to  have  been  well  fortified, 
but  the  Chinese  committed  a  great  error  in  the  training 
of  their  guns,  or  rather  in  placing  them  so  as  to  have  been 
unable  to  take  any  other  range  than  point  blank !  Here  is 
a  fort  mounting  upwards  of  fifty  guns  of  large  calibre,  which 
would  have  commanded  the  bay,  but  the  embrasures  are  so 
small  as  barely  to  admit  the  muzzle  of  the  gun,  the  breech 
of  which  was  imbedded  in  the  earth.  These  were  soon 
silenced,  as  may  well  be  supposed,  by  the  attacking  squad- 
ron taking  a  position  beyond  their  range,  and  training  their 


146  Kathay: 

own  batteries  to  bear  upon  the  Chinese  gunners  within,  who 
kept  blazing  away  into  the  unresisting  air,  whilst  the  British 
riddled  the  fort  at  leisure.  The  mandarin  in  charge,  a  Tar- 
tar, who  would  not  be  caught,  drowned  himself. 

From  Mr.  Bradley,  our  intelligent  Consul  at  Amoy,  who 
appears  to  have  devoted  much  time  to  the  study  of  the  Chi- 
nese and  their  customs,  obtained  a  great  deal  of  information 
respecting  them. 

In  regard  to  marriages,  he  stated,  that  when  a  China- 
man considers  himself  rich  enough  to  take  a  wife,  he  in- 
forms the  object  of  his  choice  by  letter,  which  is  usually  a 
sheet  of  paper  some  five  or  six  feet  in  length ;  this  is  shown  to 
her  parents,  and  if  the  match  is  thought  a  proper  one,  she  is 
allowed  to  make  known  her  compliance  in  a  billet-doux  of 
equal  proportions.  After  this  interchange,  the  father  of  the 
selected  fair  calls  upon  the  proposing  party  to  arrange  prelimi- 
naries, amongst  not  the  least  important  of  which  is  the  pay- 
ment of  a  sum  of  money  agreed  upon  between  them ;  this 
fund  is  supposed  to  be  for  the  furnishing  of  the  bride. 

The  happy  day  is  then  appointed,  and  when  it  arrives  a 
plentiful  supply  of  edibles  flows  in  from  the  friends  of  both 
families  to  the  house  of  the  bridegroom ;  from  whence  are 
dispatched  a  number  of  his  friends  to  cany  the  bride  to  her 
future  home ;  by  these  she  is  borne  along  in  a  sedan  chair, 
closely  veiled,  accompanied  by  music,  and  is  received  by  her 
future  " lord  and  master"  seated  in  state,  and  surrounded  by 
the  tablets  of  his  ancestors ;  then  for  the  first  time  in  his 
life  he  beholds  tJie  face  of  the  woman  of  his  choice  ! 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        147 

The  marriage  being  consummated,  three  days  succeeding 
are  devoted  to  festivities. 

When  a  woman  has  been  so  unfortunate  as  to  become  a 
widow,  especially  without  male  issue,  she  testifies  her  grief 
in  every  imaginable  manner,  filling  the  air  with  her  lamen- 
tations, tearing  her  loosened  hair,  and  giving  all  the  de- 
monstrations of  the  deepest  sorrow.  At  each  meal  food  is 
placed  at  the  accustomed  seat,  and  the  absentee  is  entreated 
to  return  and  partake  in  the  most  endearing  terms.  This  is 
continued  for  a  season,  when,  as  if  tired  of  entreaty  so  un- 
availingly  lavished,  and  in  the  true  spirit  of  her  sex,  the 
widow  changes  her  tune,  and  commences  to  abuse  the  "  dear 
departed."  For  one  year  this  practice  is  kept  up,  after  that, 
twice  a  month  for  three  years ;  then  only  upon  the  anniver- 
sary of  his  death.  Have  not  been  apprised  of  any  success 
having  attended  these  applications,  or  whether  the  applicants 
were  sincere  in  their  expressions ;  but  am  rather  inclined  to 
doubt  the  sincerity  of  the  mourner,  excepting  in  cases  where 
male  issue  is  desired,  and  then  their  grief  has  a  selfish 
motive. 

There  was  an  instance  in  a  Chinese  house  opposite  the 
Consulate,  where  a  woman,  who  had  been  deprived  of  her 
partner  by  death,  a  short  time  previously,  was  calling  him  to 
breakfast,  and  deprecating  his  delay  in  no  measured  terms. 

The  Pagoda,  or  tower  of  Nan-tae-Woo-Shan,  is  a  con- 
spicuous object  near  Amoy.  It  is  one  thousand  seven  hun- 
dred and  twenty-eight  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  an 
excellent  mark  for  vessels  making  the  harbor. 


148  Kathay: 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Formosa— Description  of  the  Island— Its  productions— Coal  Mines— Metals— The 
Dutch  Possessions— Their  Expulsion— Proper  policy  of  Civilized  Powers. 

rpHE  island  of  Formosa — from  going  on  which  we  so  nar- 
-■-  rowly  escaped — is  destined  from  its  position  and  import- 
ance,  to  become,  at  a  time  not  long  future,  a  place  of  consi- 
derable trade  for  both  Europeans  and  Americans,  as  it  is 
now  indeed  with  the  Chinese  of  the  neighboring  provinces 
of  Fo-Kien  and  Che-Kiang  on  the  main  land. 

As  its  name  implies,  it  is  a  "  beautiful"  island,  especially 
on  its  southern  extremity,  which  has  been  described  as 
a  fruitful  garden,  producing  delicious  fruits  and  grain  of 
every  description,  and  exporting  vast  quantities  of  rice, 
sugar,  tobacco,  and  camphor. 

The  Chinese  call  it  Te-wan ;  it  extends  between  the  de- 
grees of  twenty  and  twenty-six  north  latitude,  is  about  fifty 
miles  wide,  and  is  separated  from  the  province  of  Foo-Kien, 
of  which  it  is  a  dependency,  by  a  channel  of  from  eighty  to 
ninety  miles  in  breadth. 

It  is  equidistant  from  Japan  and  the  Philippine  Islands, 
being  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  each,  and  ap- 
pears to  have  been  placed  directly  in  the  highway  of  com- 
merce. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        149 

As  yet  it  has  been  but  little  explored,  and  of  its  harbors, 
with  the  exception  of  Kelung,  not  much  is  known.  This 
harbor  is  on  its  northern  extremity,  in  latitude  25°  9/  north 
of  Greenwich,  by  a  late  observation.  There  is  a  good  an- 
chorage here  for  vessels  drawing  not  over  sixteen  feet,  and 
water  and  supplies  can  be  obtained  from  the  town,  which 
contains  about  two  thousand  inhabitants,  said  to  be  very 
civil  and  obliging.  They  are  principally  engaged  in  fishing 
and  the  cultivation  of  the  land,  which  is  set  down  as  luxu- 
riant in  the  extreme. 

Coal  is  said  to  be  very  abundant  in  this  neighborhood, 
and  many  excavations  have  been  made  in  the  surrounding 
hills,  some  of  them  having  been  tunnelled  over  forty  feet, 
and  a  distinct  stratum  exhibited  of  about  four  feet  thick, 
hard  and  easily  detached,  lying  between  blue  soft  shale  and 
sandstone.  The  quality  of  this  coal  was  described  by  a  per- 
son who  visited  the  mines,  to  be  very  good,  heavy,  easily 
detached,  igniting  readily,  and  burning  with  a  bituminous 
gassy  flame,  leaving  a  very  small  quantity  of  ashes  of  a  red- 
dish white  color.  From  specimens  which  I  have  seen,  do 
not  suppose  it  equal  to  the  English  Cannel  or  our  own  Pitts- 
burgh ;  but  have  known  coal  of  a  not  much  superior  quality 
to  have  been  produced  from  the  first  workings  of  mines  in 
the  valley  of  the  Ohio,  and  who  can  say  but  that  much  bet- 
ter veins  exist,  of  which  these  are  but  the  openings  ? 

In  this  however  does  not  consist  entirely  the  mineral 
wealth  of  this  prolific  island,  and  in  the  range  of  mountains 
which  run  through  its  centre  is  found  gold  and  silver,  iron 
ore  and  copper.     Whilst  in  the  valleys  at  their  feet,  the  la- 


150  Kathay: 

bors  of  the  husbandman  are  bountifully  rewarded  in  exten- 
sive crops  of  sugar  and  rice,  so  easily  produced  from  the 
luxuriant  soil  of  a  southern  latitude. 

The  Pang-hoo  or  Pescadore  Islands,  which  lie  between 
it  and  the  province  of  Foo-Kien,  compose  with  Formosa, 
one  Foo,  or  department  of  that  province,  and  are  subject  to 
its  Foo-yuen  or  Governor.  These  dependencies  are  divided 
into  six  districts,  five  of  which  are  within  the  limits  of  For- 
mosa, the  sixth  comprising  the  Pescadore  Islands. 

But  although  the  Chinese  government  asserts  supremacy 
over  Formosa,  and  subjects  its  inhabitants  to  tribute,  yet 
amongst  the  aborigines  are  several  tribes,  which  it  has  never 
been  able  to  subdue,  and  who  as  yet  successfully  dispute  its 
authority,  overrun  the  peaceably  disposed  districts,  and  pre- 
vent this  extensive  island  from  being  more  thoroughly  ex- 
plored, and  its  vast  resources  fully  developed.  It  was  upon 
their  inhospitable  shore  that  we  came  near  being  cast,  and 
from  their  tender  mercies  made  so  narrow  an  escape. 

In  the  year  1624,  the  Dutch,  being  then  powerful  at  sea, 
made  an  attack  upon  the  Portuguese  settlement  at  Macao ; 
from  which  being  repulsed,  their  Admiral  sought  refuge  on 
Formosa,  and  taking  possession  of  the  Pescadore  Islands,  at- 
tacked Chinese  junks,  trading  in  those  waters,  and  plunder- 
ing them,  disposed  of  their  cargoes  on  the  neighboring  island 
of  Japan. 

By  permission  from  the  reigning  dynasty  of  China,  then 
tottering  to  its  fall,  they  were  allowed  to  establish  a  factory 
on  the  S.  W.  coast  of  Formosa,  where  they  erected  a  fort, 
which  they  named  Fort  Zealand.     This  settlement  became 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas. 


151 


quite  flourishing,  from  the  fact  that  the  disturbances  on  the 
main  land  drove  numbers  of  the  more  peaceably  disposed  Chi- 
nese to  the  security  of  this  new  retreat  on  the  beautiful  island. 

A  number  of  Spaniards  from  Manilla,  noting  the  advan- 
tageous position  of  the  island,  attempted  a  settlement  on  its 
northern  side,  but  it  was  soon  broken  up  by  the  Dutch,  who 
drove  them  away,  and  held  undisputed  sway  over  it  until 
1644,  when  the  Tartars  conquered  China,  who  naturally  be- 
coming jealous  of  this  band  of  foreigners  so  near  their  shores, 
made  arrangements  with  the  celebrated  Coxinga— rson  of 
him  who  had  been  educated  by  the  Portuguese  and  bap- 
tized Nicholas — to  repair  to  Formosa,  and  root  out  this  grow- 
ing power. 

Having,  by  professions  of  peace,  induced  the  Dutch  Ad- 
miral sent  for  its  protection  to  withdraw  his  forces  and  re- 
turn to  Batavia,  he  approached  the  settlement  with  a  large 
force,  and  landing,  was  immediately  joined  by  his  country- 
men the  Chinese  who  had  emigrated  thither.  With  these 
added  to  his  command,  Coxinga  demanded  Formosa  from 
the  Dutch,  requiring  them  to  depart  at  once  or  "  hoist  the 
red  flag,"  that  is,  prepare  to  fight.  This  they  did,  and  after 
sustaining  a  siege  of  nine  months,  surrendered  the  fort,  and 
were  allowed  to  proceed  to  Java. 

Had  they  conciliated  the  Chinese,  who  had  come  to  live 
amongst'  them,  they  might  have  had  their  support,  and  re- 
tained possession  of  the  island,  but  by  barbarous  treatment 
they  had  alienated  them,  so  that  Coxinga  found  in  them 
willing  allies. 

Since  the  expulsion  of  the  Dutch,  there  has  been  no  at- 


152  Kathay: 

tempt  at  settlement  on  this  desirable  island  by  any  European 
power ;  which,  when  its  fertility  and  position  are  considered, 
is  somewhat  remarkable.  As  I  have  before  stated,  its  pro- 
ductions are  distributed  by  Chinese  junks,  of  which  between 
two  and  three  hundred  are  engaged  in  carrying  rice  to  the 
neighboring  provinces,  and  nearly  one  hundred  are  said  to 
be  employed  in  transporting  the  article  of  sugar  alone  to  one 
single  port  in  China,  that  of  Tein-tsin.  The  trade  between 
it  and  Canton  is  also  said  to  be  considerable,  camphor  being 
the  principal  export  thence. 

But  if  gain  will  not  induce  civilized  powers  to  occupy 
this  as  yet  undeveloped  island,  the  cause  of  humanity  should 
interest  some  such  maritime  nation  as  England  or  America, 
to  at  least  chastise  those  barbarous  savages  who  overrun  its 
eastern  shores ;  it  is  from  these  that  many  a  peaceful  mari- 
ner, coasting  them  in  trading  voyages,  having  been  caught 
in  those  dreadful  Typhoons  which  ravage  those  seas,  and 
thrown  helpless  into  their  hands,  has  met  with  a  cruel  and 
torturing  death,  and  from  the  fact  of  numberless  shipwrecks 
along  that  coast,  of  which  no  survivors  have  remained,  it  is 
but  fair  to  judge  that  the  hapless  crews  have  only  escaped 
the  angry  waters,  to  meet  a  more  violent  end  on  these  inhos- 
pitable shores.  An  instance  occurred  in  the  crew  of  the 
"  Larpent,"  an  English  merchant  vessel,  which  went  ashore 
here,  about  the  time  we  passed  the  island,  of  which  but  four 
escaped,  and  these  by  a  miracle.  They  saw  their  unfortunate 
shipmates  lanced,  and  decapitated,  and  themselves,  being 
hotly  pursued,  escaped  in  their  boat,  and  landing  at  a  point 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas. 


153 


unobserved,  were,  whilst  pushing  their  way  to  the  interior, 
captured  and  sold  as  slaves,  from  which  condition  they  were 
released  by  a  chief  from  another  part  of  the  island,  and  put 
on  board  the  "  Antelope,"  an  opium  clipper,  which  brought 
them  to  Shanghae. 


8 


154  Kathay: 


CHAPTEE  XIX. 

Leave  Amoy— Arrive  in  Macko  Roads— Live  ashore— Well  guarded— Night  calls 
—Ventriloquist  at  Typa  Fort— Ordered  on  board— Up  to  Whampoa— Clipper 
Ships— Over  to  Hong-Kong— Coronation  day— Independence  day— Hurried  on 
board— The  mail — Ty-foongs. 

CAME  to  anchor  in  Macao  Eoads  on  the  4th  of  June,  hav- 
ing made  the  passage  to  Shanghae  and  back  in  just 
forty  days,  including  stoppage  there,  at  Amoy,  and  delay 
from  getting  aground  on  Formosa. 

Left  Amoy  on  the  31st  of  May,  and  ran  down  the  coast 
with  favoring  breezes,  nothing  worth  noting  having  occurred 
since  our  departure  from  the  latter  port. 

Went  ashore  on  the  first  opportunity,  and  found  there 
awaiting  our  arrival  several  letters  and  packages  of  newspa- 
pers, which  had  reached  by  overland  mail  during  our  ab- 
sence. This  was  indeed  a  treat,  and  repaid  us  for  all  the  in- 
conveniences of  our  voyage.  A  good  piece  of  news  also 
was  received,  to  wit,  that  there  was  a  probability  of  our 
leaving  the  station  for  home  in  the  fall. 

Suffering  still  from  sickness,  I  was  allowed  to  take  up  my 
lodgings  on  shore,  and  duly  installed  myself  in  apartments 
No.  7,  Senate  Square,  where  I  witnessed  the  Governor's 
daily  visit  to  the  Senate  house,  and  the  relieving  of  the 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        155 

guard.;  but  as  all  situations  have  their  drawbacks,  was  great- 
ly annoyed  by  the  unearthly  noises  made  by  the  sentries 
during  the  night.  Not  a  person  could  pass,  but  he  was 
hailed,  and  every  half  hour  I  was  awakened  by  the  guard 
yelling  out  some  unintelligible  words,  which  were  caught  up 
in  every  direction,  in  the  most  discordant  tones,  until  echo 
herself  grew  hoarse  and  disgusted  with  the  repetition.  I 
was  well  guarded  to  be  sure,  but  could  have  dispensed  with 
the  attention,  and  would  have  bargained  for  less  honor,  with 
an  equal  diminution  of  noise  ! 

The  Portuguese  lay  great  stress  upon  these  night  calls ; 
and  at  the  Typa  fort,  where  we  lay,  which  but  two  or  three 
soldiers  garrison,  it  was  said  they  had  a  ventriloquist,  who 
sent  the  word  Alerto,  with  various  changes,  throughout  the 
works. 

After  one  week's  residence  en  grand  seigneur,  was 
obliged  to  give  up  my  casa,  and  repair  on  board.  Orders 
being  to  go  up  to  Whampoa,  about  the  confounded  insur- 
rection. 

On  the  seventeenth  of  June,  came  to  anchor  in  the  "  Reach" 
again,  and  found  every  thing  as  usual  there,  the  standing- 
joke  of  the  Chinese  having  taken  Canton  not  being  realized. 

Saw  there  some  of  the  first  of  those  Yankee  clippers 
that  have  since  almost  monopolized  the  China  carrying 
trade.  The  "Sea  Serpent,"  bound  for  the  United  States, 
passed  close  to  us,  and  a  magnificent  specimen  of  naval  ar- 
chitecture she  was.  She  excited  a  strong  yearning  for  home, 
and  gladly  would  I  have  exchanged  on  board  of  her. 

These  clippers,  I  then  noted,  were  to  effect  a  change  in 


156  K  at  hay: 

East  Indiamen,  such  as  would  have  been  hooted  at  ten  years 
ago.  Then,  speed  was  a  secondary  consideration,  and  ca- 
pacity for  carrying  deemed  the  sine  qua  non.  Now,  speed 
is  the  object ;  and  it  has  been  proved,  that  in  making  quick 
trips,  with  a  lesser  cargo,  in  suitable  seasons,  the  advantage 
is  greater  than  in  freighting  larger  vessels,  that  in  conse- 
quence of  their  greater  capacity  sail  slower. 

The  anniversary  of  our  arrival  in  China  came  round 
whilst  we  lay  at  Whampoa,  and  I  celebrated  it  by  a  trip  to 
Canton,  to  make  an  official  call  upon  our  Charge  d' Affaires, 
and  returned  the  same  day. 

Our  only  amusements  here  were  strolling  over  the  hills, 
and  sauntering  through  Bamboo  and  Newtown — the  novelty 
of  which  places  having  some  time  worn  off — and  passing 
away  the  evening  at  the  bowling  alleys,  and  billiard  room, 
where  prices  were  high  and  refreshments  execrable.  How- 
ever, here  we  got  exercise  even  at  a  high  rate  ;  and  this  ex- 
ercise is  considered  so  desirable,  that  persons  from  Canton — 
a  distance  of  ten  miles — resort  to  this  place.  \ 

From  Whampoa  departed  for  Hong-Kong,  where  found 
a  number  of  old  friends.  We  arrived  there  upon  Coronation 
day,  which  was  being  celebrated  with  all  honor.  The 
Queen — God  bless  her ! — was  toasted,  and  the  healths  of 
the  King  consort,  and  all  the  royal  family  drunk.  In  the 
evening,  the  devotion  of  her  loyal  subjects  was  expended  in 
a  brilliant  display  of  fireworks,  which  was  untimely  quenched 
by  a  sudden  shower. 

Celebrated  our  own  "  Independence  day "  for  the  second 
time  in  China,  whilst  we  lay  in  the  harbor  of  Hong-Kong ; 


A    Cruise    in    the    China,  Seas.        157 

and  H.  B.  M.  frigate  Cleopatra,  and  brig  Lily,  were  dressed, 
and  fired  national  salutes  with  us ; — a  pretty  compliment, 
and  as  it  should  be.  An  editor  in  Hong-Kong  made  it  the 
subject  of  unseemly  remark,  but  am  confident  he  had  not 
the  countenance  of  one  of  his  subscribers.  A  dinner  was 
given  in  honor  of  the  occasion  at  our  Consul's.  It  was  a 
splendid  affair,  several  lady  residents  of  Hong-Kong  gracing 
the  board  with  their  presence.  The  gentlemen  kept  it  up 
long  after  they  had  retired,  and  the  union  of  the  States  was 
cemented, — representatives  from  nearly  all  being  present, — 
amongst  the  hours 

"  Ayont  the  twal." 

We  lay  at  anchor  off  Hong-Kong  until:  the  eleventh  of 
July,  when  received  orders  to  proceed  over  to  Macao,  and 
join  our  consort  there.  I  was  out  of  the  ship  when  the 
orders  came,  and  of  course  knew  nothing  about  them ;  had 
spent  the  evening  on  board  H.  M.  S.  S.  Minden,  where  I  oc- 
cupied the  state-room  of  an  absent  officer,  an  acquaintance. 
The  next  morning,  whilst  breakfasting,  my  attention  was 
directed,  through  the  port,  to  some  unusual  movement  on 
board  our  ship ;  such  as  a  boat  being  dispatched  to  the 
Cleopatra,  sending  aloft  topgallant  yards,  and  unshipping 
the  companion  ladder.  This  last  movement  was  decisive. 
Sailing  orders  must  be  on :  and  bringing  my  meal  to  a 
hasty  conclusion,  got  on  board  to  find  the  messenger  shipped, 
and  all  hands  heaving  away  at  the  capstan.  Soon  we  had 
sail  on,  and  I  did  not  get  on  board  a  minute  too  soon  to  se- 
cure a  passage  to  Macao. 


158  Kathay: 

After  reaching  that  port,  and  concluding  the  business  for 
which  we  had  been  summoned,  received  permission  to  ex- 
change our  rolling  and  pitching  in  the  outer  roads,  for  the 
snug  and  quiet  anchorage  in  the  Typa ;  and  our  old  pleas- 
ant trips  to  the  shore  were  again  resumed :  rambles  along 
the  Governor's  Road,  and  over  the  hills,  filling  up  the  after- 
noons of  "  liberty  days,"  and  suppers  at  "  Frank's  " — Hotel — 
at  night  adding  considerably  to  the  amount  of  monthly  mess 
bills. 

The  arrival  of  the  mail  was  always  an  event  with  us ; 
and  this  month — August — it  reached  Macao  unusually  early, 
having  been  received  on  the  eighth  day :  just  fifty-eight  days 
from  New- York.  I  do  not  know  what  we  would  have  done 
without  this  mail,  the  anticipation  of  its  arrival  keeping  our 
minds  occupied,  and  the  business  of  answering  letters  and 
mailing  them  filling  up  the  monthly  intervals.  We  closed 
our  correspondence  in  the  last  week  of  the  month,  expecting 
dates  from  home  during  the  first  week  of  the  next. 

"Whilst  we  lay  in  the  Typa  had  strong  indications  of  a 
Ty-foong,  but  it  passed  over  with  some  bad  weather,  high 
winds,  and  squalls.  Felt  perfectly  secure  at  our  anchorage, 
but  used  the  precaution  of  bending  the  sheet-cables,  sending 
down  yards,  and  housing  topgallant-masts.  As  it  was,  had 
considerable  of  a  blow,  and  the  Ty-foong  ravaged  the  coasts 
in  our  vicinity. 

The  Ty-foong  of  the  East  is  synonymous  with  the  hurri- 
cane or  tornado  of  the  West  Indies,  as  the  monsoon  may  be 
said  to  assimilate  with  the  trade-winds  of  the  opposite  hemi- 
sphere ;  but  this  "  strong  wind  "  blows  with  even  more  vio- 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        159 

lence,  and  has  a  circular  motion.  Ships  have  had  their 
masts  bodily  twisted  out  of  them,  and  many,  more  unfortu- 
nate, have  been  ingulfed  in  the  maelstrom  created  by  its 
fury.  From  its  veering  so  suddenly  to  every  point  of  the 
compass,  the  usual  precautions  against  ordinary  gales  afford 
but  little  protection.  A  heavy,  boding  swell  precedes,  to 
give  notice  of  the  dreaded  Ty-foong.  The  aquatic  birds, 
with  natural  instinct,  take  wing  and  fly  before  its  approach ; 
whilst  on  shore  the  air  is  filled  with  insects  in  constant  mo- 
tion. So  indicative,  indeed,  is  this  flight  of  insects,  that  the 
Chinese  call  them  Ty-foong  Bugs. 

The  inhabitants  predicate  the  recursion  of  these  storms 
by  numerous  other  signs,  and  are  prompt  to  take  every  pre- 
caution to  avoid  their  effects.  At  Macao,  upon  this  occasion, 
the  proprietors  of  the  "Tanka"  and  "pull  away"  boats  drew 
them  on  shore,  some  distance  from  the  landing,  and  close  to 
the  houses.  In  these,  the  boat  folk,  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren, stowed  themselves  away,  prepared  to  weather  the  Ty- 
foong.  The  walls  of  the  dwellings  on  the  Praya  forming  a 
good  lee,  they  lashed  their  boats  as  well  as  they  were  able, 
and  secured  the  bamboo  coverings.  Not  a  boatman  could 
be  prevailed  upon  to  launch  his  craft  for  love  or  money. 
Some  of  them,  indeed,  from  the  habit  of  their  profession, 
would  say,  "  Suppose  have  give  ten,  twelve  dollar,  so  ;"  but 
if  you  appeared  for  an  instant  to  incline  to  their  extortionate 
demand,  they  would  at  once  change  their  tune,  and  shaking 
both  head  and  tail, — please  to  remember  that  Chinese  boatmen 
have  tails  to  their  heads, — cry  out,  with  deprecatory  gestures, 
"  Ei-yah !  how  can  make  walkee  ?    my  tinkee  can  catchee 


160  Kathay: 

too  muchee  Ti-fung !"   and  then  slide  back  beneath  their 
bamboo  shelter,  with  a  decisive  "  No  can  !" 

The  season  when  Ty-foongs  generally  prevail  in  these 
latitudes, — and  it  is  only  within  a  few  degrees  upon  these 
coasts  that  they  rage, — is  between  July  and  October,  in- 
clusive of  those  months.  They  form  a  serious  impediment 
to  the  navigation  of  the  China  Sea,  almost  amounting  to  its 
obstruction  at  this  period  ;  for  the  inducement  must  be  great 
to  encounter  such  a  risk.  H.  B.  M.  ship  Hastings  experi- 
enced a  severe  one  late  in  October,  and  the  new  American 
clipper  ship  "  Witchcraft,"  came  into  Victoria  harbor  on  the 
third  of  December,  1851,  having  encountered  a  strong  Ty- 
foong  in  142°  east,  which  carried  away  all  her  topmasts, 
and  jib-boom,  narrowly  escaping  going  down.  Both  these 
vessels  were  caught  unexpectedly,  neither  expecting  to  find 
Ty-foongs  in  the  latitudes  in  which  they  were  at  that  season 
of  the  year. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        161 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Ty-foong  passed— Pleasant  Season— Theatrical  Exhibition — The  Macaense— Phil- 
harmonic Society — Italian  Opera — Awaiting  Orders  for  Home — Thoughts  of 
Home  and  Friends— Idea  suggested  by  the  Setting  Sun — Poetry — Maladie  de 
Pays— Its  effect  supon  the  Swiss— A  Remedy— My  own  Experience— And  man- 
ner of  Cure. 

THE  symptoms  of  the  Ty-foong  having  passed  over,  and 
all  fears  of  its  recurrence  at  an  end,  time  went  pleasantly 
by  at  Macao.  The  temperature  was  most  delightful,  this 
season  being  certainly  the  most  agreeable  in  this  part  of 
China,  a  number  of  foreign  residents  from  Canton  and  Hong- 
Kong  adding  to  its  gayety. 

The  Portuguese  officers,  aided  by  the  citizens,  got  up  for 
our  amusement  a  theatrical  exhibition,  at  the  old  rooms  for- 
merly occupied  by  the  Philharmonic  Society.  The  repre- 
sentations were  very  good,  and  the  accommodations  for  the 
audience  excellent.  Saw  the  elite  of  Macao  at  these  per- 
formances, and  must  say  the  Macaense  are  not  without  a 
goodly  share  of  female  beauty,  although  it  is  not  apparent 
upon  all  occasions,  for  the  decline  of  the  place  has  affected 
the  finances  of  the  families,  and  their  pride  will  not  allow 
them  to  exhibit  their  poverty  upon  common  occasions,  not 
that  there  was  any  evidence  of  it  here,  for  the  ladies  were 
all  richly  as  well  as  tastily  dressed. 


162  K  at  hay: 

It  is  perhaps  not  generally  known  that  opera  once 
flourished  in  Macao.  An  Italian  company,  who  had  carried 
their  "  sweet  voices"  around  the  world,  once  made  these 
walls  vocal  with  the  music  of  Donnizetti,  Bellini,  and  others 
of  their  great  maestros,  and  "  Lucia  di  Lammermoor  "  la- 
mented her  lost  love,  and  the  amiable  Amina  sobbed  forth 
her  somnambulic  sorrows  for  her  false  lover,  upon  these  very 
boards. 

The  performance  given  upon  this  occasion  was  not  in 
opera,  but  dramatic,  something  about  the  troubles  of  a  Jew — 
not  le  Juif  Errant — although  this  member  of  his  tribe  was 
off  and  on  sufficiently  to  have  given  him  a  claim  to  this 
title. 

An  interval,  filled  up  by  promenading  to  some  pretty 
good  music,  was  succeeded  by  a  funny  farce,  which  sent  the 
audience  laughing  to  their  beds. 

We  awaited  here  the  arrival  of  the  Commodore,  whom  we 
had  heard  was  to  bring  us  our  release,  and  send  us  home 
immediately  upon  his  reaching  the  station.  Had  not  a  full 
view  of  the  part  of  the  horizon  from  which  the  flagship 
might  be  expected  to  emerge,  but  many  were  the  glasses 
directed  to  the  mouth  of  the  Typa,  from  which  a  glimpse  of 
the  ocean  could  be  gained,  and  the  quarter-masters  of  each 
watch  were  repeatedly  ordered  to  keep  a  good  look-out.  The 
fact  was,  we  were  getting  tired  of  China,  and  despite  all  the 
kind  favors  showered  upon  us,  longed  for  home  : 

"  Breathes  there  a  man  with  soul  so  dead, 
Who  never  to  himself  has  said  : 
This  is  my  own — my  native  land!" 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        163 

And  thoughts  of  home  and  dear  ones  there,  would  intrude, 
and  strong  desires  once  more  to  tread  the  soil  of  that  loved 
native  land,  and  to  press  the  hands  of  early  and  long-tried 
friends,  could  not  be  entirely  repressed,  although  not  alto- 
gether just  to  "  those  we  had  here." 

But  we  had  been  now  nearly  two  years  absent.  Two 
years  on  shipboard  is  a  long,  a  very  long  time — try  it  if  you 
doubt — and  had  seen  nearly  all  tliat  was  worthy  of  observation 
within  our  reach.  Seas  of  immense  extent  rolled  between 
us  and  our  homes,  and  the  circumference  of  the  globe  had  to 
be  traversed  ere  we  could  expect  to  meet  our  friends.  No 
wonder  then  that  we  so  ardently  desired  to  be  allowed  to 
point  our  prow  towards  the  West,  or  watching  the  retiring 
beams  of  the  setting  sun,  envied  that  orb  the  privilege  that 
action  gave,  of  kissing  eyelids  and  gazing  into  eyes,  on 
which  we  were  wont  to  gaze  "  lang  syne,"  nor  under  the  in- 
fluence of  such  thoughts  that  we  should  give  them  vent  in 
this  manner : 

"Farewell,  my  love,  the  evening  gun 
Has  boomed  in  echo  o'er  the  sea ; 
My  soul  goes  with  that  sinking  sun, 
Which  sheds  its  rising  beams  on  thee. 

"  May  it  bring  to  thee  peace  and  joy, 

Tho'  here,  it  care  and  darkness  leaves  ; 
For  gloomy  thoughts  my  soul  employ, 
"Which  now  no  light  from  thine  receives. 

M  Oh,  for  one  old  accustomed  smile  ! 

That  dark  eye's  glance  of  lustrous  light ;  •) , 
But  these  are  distant  many  a  mile, 
And  I  can  only  sigh — Good  Night ! 


164  Kathay: 

"  Good  night,  my  love,  whilst  darkness  lowers 
Around  our  lone  and  silent  bark, 
Morning  smiles  sweetly  on  thy  bowers, 
And  greeting,  upwards  flies  the  lark. 

"  Thou  art  the  sun  that  glads  my  way, 
Thine  eye  the  b^un  of  life  to  me, 
Thy  smile  can  turn  my  night  to  day, 
As  upwards  speeds  my  soul  to  thee." 

« 

I  have  before  explained  the  causes  which  operated  upon 
me  to  produce  such  effects  as  above,  and  hope  the  reader,  if 
ever  he  or  she  should  have  been  afflicted  in  either  of  the  ways 
I  have  mentioned,  will  at  least  tolerate  the  method  of  allevia- 
tion. 

This  "  maladie-de-pays"  is  a  horrible  sensation,  worse 
than  sea-sickness,  I  ween,  and  I  can  fully  sympathize  with 
the  poor  Swiss,  who  are  said  to  have  fallen  victims  to  it  in 
the  armies  of  Napoleon.  He  should  have  allowed  pens,  ink, 
and  any  quantity  of  writing  paper ;  they  might  have  relieved 
their  minds  by  scribbling.  Music  is  also  said  to  be  a  capital 
cure,  although  the  uManz  des  Vaches  "  did  not  succeed  ;  but 
I  judge  from  the  cheerful  countenances  of  those  of  their 
countrymen  who  are  in  the  habit  of  parading  our  streets 
with  a  hand  organ  and  monkey,  and  enlivening  us  with  the 
air  of 

"Arouse  thee,  arouse  thee,  my  merry  Swiss  boy." 

For  myself  I  have  only  experienced  the  malady  twice. 
The  first  attack  occurred,  when  with  a  heart  rather  more 
tender  than  at  the  present  writing,  I  was  left  amongst  a  par- 


A    Cruise    in    the    China   Seas.        165 

eel  of  strange  inquisitive  boys,  at  a  boarding-school  in  the 
country,  at  what  then  appeared  to  my  unshophisticated 
mind  away  "  'tother  side  of  yonder ; " — I  shall  never  forget, 
although  I  may  laugh  at  it  now,  the  feeling  of  utter  desolate- 
ness  that  came  over  me,  or  how  low  sank  my  little  heart,  even 
to  the  very  soles  of  my  stockings,  when  the  Dominie,  whose 
face  was  fast  forgetting  the  smiles  it  had  worn  in  my  good 
parents'  presence,  inquired  in  a  tone  half  hypocritical,  half 
ironical :  "  What  does  the  young  gentleman  want  now  ?"  and 
I  blubberingly  answered, "  I — want — to — go — go — home."  I 
recovered  from  that  attack  with  the  aid  of  counter  irritation 
by  the  application  of  birch,  and  emollients  in  the  shape  of 
scribbling  verses  to  the  metre  of  "dulce — dulce  domum." 
The  effects  of  the  second  are  now  before  the  reader,  from 
which  I  opine  he  is  the  greatest  sufferer,  and  this  is  dis- 
persed by  music,  for  the  "  retreat "  has  just  been  beaten,  and 
I  shall  turn  in.  m 


166  K  at  hay: 


CHAPTER    XXL 


Haul  up  all  standing— Boat  Races— Interest  in  the  sport— Excitement  general- 
Arrangements — Jockeyism  —Regatta — Preparations — The  Start — The  Race — 
The  Result— Launch  and  First  Cutter— Race  described  con-amore— Sugges- 
tion of  an  Old  Salt— Satan  and  Sailors. 


BUT  I  must  cease  my  digressions,  lest  my  sickness  become 
epidemic,  and  extend  to  my  readers,  in  which  event  I 
should  fear  they  would  not  be  "  at  home "  to  me.  To  con- 
tinue : 

To  fill  up  the  time,  and  give  some  relaxation  to  the  men, 
had  boat  races  between  the  diffapent  crews  in  the  "  Typa." 

It  was  surprising  to  see  with  what  interest  the  sailors  en- 
tered into  the  sport,  and  the  excitement  produced  by  the 
contests ;  bets  ran  high  amongst  them,  and  Tattersalls,  pre- 
vious to  the  great  St.  Leger  Stake,  could  not  produce  a 
greater  scene  of  excitement  than  did  our  top-gallant  fore- 
castle and  forward  gangways,  during  the  preparations  for  a 
race ;  the  claims  of  different  candidates  for  an  oar  would  be 
carefully  canvassed,  and  the  coxswains  became,  for  the  nonce, 
men  of  vast  importance,  for  upon  their  ipse  dixit  in  selecting 
the  crews,  the  success  of  the  boats  was  thought  mainly  to 
depend.  Then  the  non-combatants  had  their  favorite  boats 
and  men,  and  their  suggestions  would  be  strongly  urged. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        167 

The  enthusiasm  even  extended  to  the  officers,  and  pro- 
duced an  excitement  as  deep,  if  not  so  loud,  upon  the  quar- 
ter deck  and  poop.  Sums  were  raised  amongst  them,  and 
set  up  as  prizes  for  the  crew  of  the  winning  boat,  and  suppers 
on  shore,  and  segars  in  hand,  hung  upon  the  success  of  the 
second  or  third  cutters — the  first  cutter  and  the  launch. 

Every  plan  known  to  experienced  boatmen  was  resorted 
to ;  every  unnecessary  impediment  that  could  offer  the  slight- 
est obstruction  removed ;  the  bottoms  of  the  boats,  after  hav- 
ing been  well  scraped,  were  secretly  greased,  and  the  pintals 
of  the  rudder  carefully  oiled,  the  weight  of  the  oars  well  cal- 
culated, and  the  trim  of  the  boats  arranged  by  placing 
breakers  of  water  fore,  aft,  or  amidships,  as  it  was  thought 
their  weight  might  be  required  to  give  a  proper  balance. 

The  oars,  too,  were  carefully  overhauled,  scraped,  pointed, 
and  newly  leathered ;  the  rowlocks,  in  which  they  were  to  be 
placed,  arranged,  and  nothing  that  skill  or  experience  could 
suggest,  was  neglected  to  secure  success. 

Preparation  for  the  race. — The  hour  big  with  fate 
to  the  crews  of  the  second  and  third  cutters  approached. 
One  bell  in  the  afternoon  watch  had  been  struck,  and  prepa- 
rations commenced.  The  respective  crews  having  taken  the 
lightest  kind  of  a  dinner,  divested  themselves  of  all  unneces- 
sary clothing,  tied  handkerchiefs  around  their  heads,  and 
making  their  belts  taut  around  their  bodies,  stood  by,  ready 
for  a  call.  The  boats,  their  oars  all  in,  and  extra  ones  se- 
cured handily  to  the  gunwales,  in  case  of  accident,  with  a  cox- 
swain in  each,  lay  at  either  of  the  booms, — second  cutter  on 
starboard,  third  on  the  port  side ;  and  the  arrangement  was 


168  Kathay: 

that  they  should  both  lay  upon  their  oars  and  await  the  sig- 
nal, which  was  to  be  the  dropping  of  a  handkerchief  by  the 
umpire,  who  was  first  to  see  that  neither  had  the  advantage. 
A  few  minutes  before  two  bells,  the  boatswain's  mate  piped 
away  the  crews,  and  they  descended  into  their  respective 
boats  by  the  booms. 

The  start. — After  being  seated,  and  having  peaked  their 
oars  by  way  of  a  salute,  the  order  was  given  to  "  let  fall ;" 
splash  went  their  oars  into  the  water,  and  anxiety  was  de- 
picted upon  every  countenance.  "  Take  your  stations" — 
"  Back  your  oars,  third  cutters" — "  Steady  there,  second 
cutters,"  were  the  orders  given  and  repeated  with  only  an 
alteration  in  the  titles  of  the  boats,  as  the  crew  of  each 
with  a  natural  impulse  strove  to  prevent  the  other  from 
stealing  a  length  upon  them ;  from  this  impatience  it  was 
found  impossible  to  make  their  position  exactly  relative ;  but 
at  last  the  handkerchief  was  dropped,  and  off  they  shot  with 
the  velocity  of  arrows  from  a  bow,  the  second  cutter  having 
the  advantage  of  half  a  length  in  the  start. 

The  race. — The  distance  to  be  rowed  was  one  mile  and 
a  half  to  a  stake  boat,  round  that,  and  back.  The  prize,  a 
bag  containing  sixty-four  dollars,  supended  from  an  oar  in 
the  stake  boat.  The  second  cutter  having  the  start,  kept 
the  distance  open  between  her  and  her  competitor  (now  ex- 
tended a  full  length),  which  pulled  up  steadily  in  her  wake ; 
the  coxswain  of  the  leading  boat  dexterously  anticipating  all 
his  pursuer's  efforts  to  pass,  and  keeping  him  dead  in  his 
wake  until  they  had  shot  over  half  the  distance  between  the 
ship  and  the  stake  boat,  when,  by  a  desperate  effort,  the 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        169 

third  cutter  appeared  to  leap  bodily  out  of  the  water,  her 
oars  quivering  like  the  wings  of  a  bird,  from  the  impulse 
given  by  those  muscular  arms.  Side  by  side,  their  oars  al- 
most overlapping,  they  dashed  like  the  wind  towards  the 
prize.  Now  came  the  tug — a  single  tarpauling  would  at  one 
moment  have  covered  them  both  and  retained  its  position, 
so  steadily  did  they  pull ;  it  was  apparently  a  tie,  when  an 
unusual  movement  was  observed  on  board  the  third  cutter. 

The  result — This  was  caused  by  the  breaking  of  the 
bow  oar,  which  snapping  short  off,  dropped  into  the  water, 
and  fouled  the  starboard  oars ;  not  an  instant  was  spent  in 
shipping  another,  but  the  advantage  had  been  lost.  The 
second  cutter,  with  her  full  power,  shot  ahead,  rounded  the 
stake  boat  and  led  the  way  back ;  her  opponent  recovering 
from  the  accident,  and  following  so  closely,  that  the  two  ap- 
peared like  one  boat  of  unusual  length  as  they  approached ; 
but  the  struggle  was  unequal.  Two  third  cutters,  unable  to 
stand  the  additional  labor,  gave  out.  The  flag  was  hauled 
down  from  the  fore  as  the  second  cutter  passed  the  line, 
and  the  third,  contending  to  the  last,  came  in  about  three 
boats'  lengths  astern. 

The  next  race  was  between  the  launch  and  the  first 
cutter;  the  launch,  a  heavy  boat,  called  by  sailors  the 
"Purser's  Gig,"  pulling  sixteen  oars;  first  cutter,  a  fast 
craft,  with  a  crack  crew,  pulling  just  eight.  This  was  the 
race  of  the  Regatta,  and  excited  much  interest.  Various 
were  the  opinions  as  to  the  result,  and  to  use  a  phrase  of  the 
turf,  "  bets  were  even ;"  not  that  any  serious  amounts  of 
money  were  risked,  for  that  would  have  been  "  contra  bonos 


170  Kathay: 

mores ;"    but  several  suppers  and  sundry  boxes  of  segars 
hung  on  the  balance. 

Both  the  boats  were  put  in  capital  order,  and  the  crews 
of  both  were  sanguine  of  success.  The  launchers  depended 
upon  the  power  they  possessed  in  a  double  bank  of  oars ; 
the  first  cutters  upon  the  qualities  and  lightness  of  their 
boat.  Impelled  by  these  hopes,  they  started.  I  happened 
to  be  in  the  launch ;  we  took  the  lead  after  a  fair  start,  and 
led  the  cutter  around  the  stake  boat,  a  distance  of  more 
than  a  mile ;  but  that  which  had  given  the  launch  a  great 
advantage  on  the  first  stretch,  proved  a  serious  drawback  on 
her  return,  the  prevalence  of  a  very  high  wind,  which  in- 
creasing, kicked  up  a  tremendous  sea,  and  causing  her  to 
roll  and  pitch,  very  much  deadened  her  headway.  Gradu- 
ally the  first  cutter  crawled  up;  gallantly  the  launchers 
contested  the  space  they  had  gained.  "  Give  way,  lads ! 
give  way,  they're  gaining  on  us !"  and  the  oars  bent  like 
willows  in  the  hands  of  the  hardy  launchers ;  but  in  vain 
this  expenditure  of  strength ;  one  half  of  it  was  lost  in  a 
heavy  lurch,  which  sent  the  starboard  oars  glancing  in  the 
sunbeams,  dripping  salt  tears  from  their  blades  into  the  ex- 
ulting wave,  and  nearly  unseating  the  men.  Like  the  Gi- 
selle, the  agile  cutter  skips  alongside.  "  Pull  steadily  now, 
men  !"  "  Pull  with  a  will !"  It  is  vain  ;  side  by  side  we 
plunge,  but  the  cutter  evidently  gains;  a  glimpse  of  blue 
sky  is  apparent  at  the  back  of  her  steerer ;  it  increases ;  the 
slanting  beams  of  the  setting  sun  shines  full  in  our  eyes.  It 
is  noticed  by  the  crew — sailors  are  superstitious,  and  their 
hopes  sink  with  the  sun ;  "  But  it  will  rise  again !   Give  way, 


A    Cruise    in    the    China   Seas.        171 

boys,  give  way !  we'll  beat  them  yet !"  Again  they  put 
forth  all  their  power,  and  the  bow  oars  nearly  touch.  But 
the  wind  increases,  the  sea  rises,  a  heavy  swell  knocks  us  back 
from  the  vantage  we  had  gained.  The  third  cutter,  buoyant 
as  a  cork,  perches  an  instant  on  the  crest  of  a  wave,  and 
then  rushes  down  its  opposite  side  with  a  cheer  from  its 
crew.  The  race  was  to  the  swift,  but  "  the  battle  was  not  to 
the  strong ;"  the  "  Purser's  Gig  "  was  distanced. 

But,  if  the  launch  had  been  beaten,  its  crew  were  not 
conquered,  and  the  coxswain,  old  Andrews,  captain  of  the 
forecastle,  who,  with  a  picked  crew,  would  have  undertaken 
to  have  pulled  the  boat  across  his  own  maelstrom,  offered  his 
whack — the  sum  to  his  credit  on  the  purser's  books,  on  his 
discharge, — against  a  plug  of  tobacco, — upon  the  issue,  in 
moderately  smooth  water ;  whilst  I,  with  others,  had  not  lost 
confidence  in  the  strong  arms  that  impelled  the  "  purser's 
gig ;"  although  I  did  not  incline  to  make  one  of  her  crew  in  a 
contest  in  which  old  A.  proposed  to  beat  the  devil,  on  his  own 
lake  of  fiery  brimstone,  with  his  favorite  launch ;  but  A.  was 
excited  by  the  race,  and  had  got  a  tot  of  a  mixture  which 
assimilated  to  that  "fire  ivater"  and  forgot  that  his  boat  was 
not  framed  of  asbestos ;  besides,  I  fear  he  held  his  satanic 
majesty  slightly  in  contempt  from  the  nautical  notion  that  he 
possesses  power  over  sailors  no  more  within  his  dominions. 


172  Kathay: 


CHAPTEK  XXII. 

Effects  of  the  Race— Suppers  and  their  effects— The  stuff  that  Dreams  are  made  of 
— A  Scrape  in  the  Typa — Again  at  Whampoa. 

CJOME  suppers  had  to  be  ordered,  and  somebody  bad  to 
^  eat  them.  Suppers  are  spiritless  affairs  without  wine — 
nay  !  I  deny  the  soft  impeachment, — no  pun  is  meant!  And 
wine  came  forth  at  the  bidding.     Some  one  observes, 

"  You  can  call  spirits  from  the  vasty  deep ! 
But  will  they  come  V 

Let  him  but  whisper  the  name  of  one  "  familiar  "  of  any 
shade,  complexion,  or  color  within  the  corridors  of  Francisco 
Diaz's  mansion  for  thirsty  men,  in  Macao ;  and  lo !  it  ap- 
pears ! 

His  house  is  haunted;  there  are  bottle  imps  therein. 
Suppers  were  eaten  at  which  epicures  had  not  lingered ; 
wine  gulped  down  which  would  not  have  inspired  Anacreon, 
and  segars  smoked  that  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  might  have  rel- 
ished !  Apropos  of  segars — I  should  have  said  cheroots — 
Manillas  scent  the  Indian  air,  Havanas  have  few  lips  to  greet 
them  in  the  East.  Cheroots,  then ;  who  is  there  amongst 
the  masculine  dwellers  of  the  land  of  "  musquitoes  and  myr- 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        1*73 

tie,"  that  affects  not  the  gentle  cheroot  ?  soft  in  its  fragrance 
as  the  sigh  of  love !  cheering  in  its  effects  as  the  presence  of 
woman  in  the  hour  of  pain !  seducing  in  its  influence  as  the 
eye  of  beauty !  And  whence  gains  the  cheroot  its  magical 
properties  ?  Look  back,  if  you  please,  to  chapter  twelfth  of 
this  moving  tale,  and  there  you  have  it  fully  explained.  It 
comes  from  the  hand  of  woman !  the  same  that  presented 
the  apple  to  Adam,  and  the  pitcher  to  Abraham,  who  in 
falling  or  fainting,  in  laughing  or  weeping,  still  infuses  the 
sweetness  and  acidity  that  makes  the  lemonade  of  life,  and 
in  mixing  the  ingredients  "  gives  it  all  its  flavor !" 

"  Let  the  toast  be  dear  woman  P  "  Hallo,  old  fellow, 
thought  you  were  asleep.  Had  something  of  a  nightmare, 
eh  ?  Been  mumbling  away  as  if  the  supper  didn't  agree 
with  you."  "  Well,  your  toast,  with  all  the  honors,  and 
then  to  bed."     "  Agreed." 

"  Let  us  go  on  board  ship,"  proposed  a  seasoned  mate, 
"  the  fast  boat  shoves  off  at  ten."  "  Agreed,  agreed  again," 
was  chorused  round  the  table,  and  "  one  bottle  more  "  of  spark- 
ling champagne  being  called  for,  "  success  to  the  launch  "  was 
drank,  and  then  a  majority  of  the  party  sought  the  boat, 
gained  the  ship,  and  turned  in.  *  Let  the  toast  be  dear  wo- 
man," danced  through  my  brain  upon  sparkling  beams  of 
champagne,  and  the  vibration  of  the  nettles  in  the  clews  of 
my  hammock  plainly  said  or  sung — 

"  The  wine  that  is  mellowed  by  woman's  bright  eye, 
Outrivals  the  nectar  of  Jove." 

And  I  had  a  dream,  which  was  "  all  a  dream."    With  Byron 


174  Kathay: 

in  his  waking  "  Dream,"  "  I  saw  two  beings  in  the  hue  of 
youth,"  and  like  his  lovers,  they  were  "  standing  upon  a  hill," 
and  "  both  were  young,  and  one  was  beautiful."  I  do  not 
know  how  in  fitting  words  to  tell  my  dream.  But  as  it  was 
similar  to  his,  oh  that  I  could  with  his  language,  without  the 
imputation  of  plagiarism,  set  down  what  crossed  my  sleeping 
mind.  Besides,  I  have  a  dread  of  offending  some  readers 
in  these  transcendental  times,  when  lectures  on  mysterious 
subjects  are  given  to  married  ladies  only,  whose  faces  would 
tingle  at  the  mere  mention  of  one  of  those  English  classics, 
from  whose  fount  flowed  "  the  well  of  English  undefiled." 
But  to  my  dream.  It  was  the  age  of  early  manhood,  boy- 
hood still  lingering  on  the  face  of  a  being  who  filled  my 
mind  until  it  formed  a  part  of  myself.  The  being  described 
as  beautiful,  oh  beautiful  as  an  angel  was  she  !  was  by  his 
side.  Love,  full,  passionate  love,  brimmed  over  in  her  dark 
black  eye,  darker,  more  dazzling  than  the  gazelle's,  which 
was  reflected  back  from  his  dark  orbs,  which  took  their 
brightest  brilliancy  from  hers.  Over  her  cheek  the  rosy  god 
had  spread  his  crimson  mantle,  and  in  the  dimples  of  her 
chin  the  mischievous  boy  had  found  a  lurking-place.  They 
walked  and  talked,  and  in  what  phrase  ?  Truly  they  knew 
not  themselves  !  and  yet  each  word,  each  glance,  each  touch, 
had  a  meaning  perfectly  intelligible.  Time  passed,  but  what 
was  time  to  them,  they  saw  nothing  of  his  beard,  heard  not 
the  rustling  of  his  ancient  wings,  his  scythe  was  hidden. 
The  heavens  are  overcast,  thunder  rolls  above  them,  and  the 
lightning's  glare  makes  the  black  fringes  of  the  heavy  cloud 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        1*75 

more  funereal.  A  shadow,  heavy,  dense,  material,  interposes, 
and  the  boy  seeks  for  his  fair  companion — but  she  is  gone : 
"  Got  to  see  the  hammocks  np  !  six  bells,  come  turn  out," 
"rouse  and  bitt,"  "show  a  leg  in  a  purser's  stocking." 
"  Zounds,  how  he  sleeps,"  "  where,  where,  oh  where  is  my 
hammock  boy?"  who  appeared  at  my  call,  and  whom  I 
wished  at  the  gangway,  that  I  might  have  slept  on.  But 
turn  out  I  must  now — and  so  turned  out  my  dream. 

Other  races  were  upon  the  tapis.  The  launchers,  like 
brave  old  Taylor,  would  not  stay  beaten,  and  demanded  an- 
other trial ;  they  offered  to  oppose  any  thing,  from  the  Cap- 
tain's gig,  down  to  the  dingui — they  even  wanted  to  chal- 
lenge the  boats  of  the  whole  squadron,  and  old  A.,  the  cox- 
swain, in  the  true  spirit  of  Rhoderick  Dhu,  exclaimed, 
"  Come  one,  come  all,"  but  the  regatta  was  put  a  stop  to,  by 
orders  to  get  out  of  the  Typa,  and  the  men  commenced 
"  mud-larking,"  as  they  termed  it.  The  Typa  is  filling  up  so 
rapidly  that  we  never  could  get  out  noio  without  a  scrape, 
and  the  senior  officer  perhaps  thought  it  better  we  should 
move  before  we  had  formed  a  bar  with  our  beef  bones. 

So  out  of  the  Typa  again  we  got,  poised  our  wings  in 
the  outer  harbor,  and  took  flight  for  Whampoa  again,  and 
settled  down  in  our  old  resting  place  in  the  "  Reach,"  on  the 
11th  of  October.  From  here  I  took  another  trip  to  Canton, 
made  a  few  purchases,  as  I  then  supposed  it  would  be  our 
last  opportunity.  Heard  there  of  an  extensive  fire  which 
had  raged  near  the  factories,  in  which  over  five  hundred 
houses  had  been  destroyed.     A  fire  in  Canton  is  a  serious 


176  Kathay: 

affair,  and  from  the  ideas  of  fatalism  which  the  Chinese  en- 
tertain, is  much  dreaded  by  foreign  residents. 

Our  stay  at  Whampoa  was  not  marked  by  any  incidents 
worth  noticing,  and  it  is  only  to  keep  up  the  chronological 
character  of  my  journal,  that  the  trip  is  introduced. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        Ill 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Anson's  Bay— Hong-Kong  again— P.  &  O.  Company's  hulk  takes  fire— Escape 
of  Captain's  wife— Toong-Koo  Bay— Piracy— Fire  at  Macao— Wolf  again  at 
Whampoa— Amateur  Theatricals  at  Canton— Melancholy  musings. 

in  ROM  Whampoa,  came  down  the  river  to  Anson's  Bay 
**-  and  anchored ;  here  held  communication  with  our  con- 
sort, which  went  up  to  the  "  Reach"  to  take  our  place. 

Anson's  Bay  is  just  outside  of  the  Bogue,  and  from  our 
anchorage  had  a  fine  view  of  the  Forts,  some  eight  or  nine 
being  in  sight.  Tiger  Island  was  also  conspicuous,  and  the 
formation  of  a  tiger's  head  quite  apparent. 

From  Anson's  Bay  took  our  departure  for  Hong-Kong, 
where  moored  ship  on  the  19th  October. 

On  the  20th,  at  about  5  p.  m.,  the  Peninsular  and  Ori- 
ental Company's  hulk  "  Fort  William,"  used  for  storing  coal 
and  opium,  took  fire  and  burned  until  10  o'clock  that  night, 
when  the  fire  was  got  under.  Our  crew  assisted,  with  buck- 
ets from  the  ship,  nearly  all  of  which  they  managed  to  lose. 
The  Captain's  wife,  who  lived  on  board  the  hulk,  had  a  nar- 
row escape,  having  to  be  lowered  out  of  the  stern  ports. 

From  Hong-Kong  over  to  Macao,  where  obtained  per- 
mission to  go  into  Toong-Koo  Bay  for  the  purpose  of  calk- 
ing, preparatory  to  our  long  voyage  home,  upon  which  we 
9 


178  Kathat: 

now  hoped  to  be  ordered  daily ;  the  rolling  in  the  Roads 
preventing  the  possibility  of  effecting  it  at  Macao. 

Toong-Koo  Bay  is  in  the  Cap-sing-moon  passage,  and 
about  thirty  miles  from  Hong-Kong.  The  British  fleet  ren- 
dezvoused here  during  the  war  with  China. 

Were  anchored  near  Sam-sah  Island,  where  tents  were 
pitched  and  the  sick  placed  in  them.  Every  morning  one 
watch  was  permitted  to  go  on  shore  to  wash  their  clothes, 
&c,  until  relieved  by  the  other  watch,  so  that  there  was  al- 
ways a  little  colony  on  the  island.  It  was  otherwise  unin- 
habited. 

Strolling  over  the  island,  came  upon  the  ruins  of  a  house 
and  some  human  bones,  and  ascending  a  hill  had  a  splendid 
view  of  the  bay  and  surrounding  islands.  These  appeared 
innumerable,  like  icebergs  in  the  Antarctic  circle,  cutting  up 
the  bay  into  intricate  channels,  and  as  barren,  if  not  as  cold, 
as  those  ice  islands.  Pirates  are  plentiful  in  this  neighbor- 
hood, and  one  morning,  at  daylight,  Afouke,  our  fast  boat- 
man, brought  on  board  two  Chinamen,  whom  he  had  picked 
up  swimming.  They  were  badly  wounded,  and  stated  that 
about  three  o'clock  that  morning,  as  they  were  fishing,  they 
were  boarded  by  pirates,  who  threw  fire-balls  amongst  them, 
burning  them  badly,  and  forcing  them  to  leap  into  the  water 
to  save  their  fives,  and  then  took  possession  of  their  boats. 
These  waters  are  infested  with  pirates,  who  ostensibly  pursue 
the  avocation  of  fishermen,  until  an  opportunity  opens  to 
catch  men.  The  English  navy  did  a  great  deal  towards  ex- 
tirpating them,  until  their  government  took  away  the  "  head 
money,"  and  now  but  few  expeditions  are  fitted  out ;  although 


A  Cruise  in  the  China  Seas.   1*79 

doubtless  the  junior  officers  are  as  anxious  for  the  service  as 
ever. 

The  calking  completed,  reported  ourselves  at  Macao  ;  but 
no  Commodore  appearing,  and  our  coppers  being  worn  out, 
went  over  to  Hong-Kong  to  get  them  repaired.  Here  we 
got  a  mail  and  news  from  home  which  was  cheering,  and  in- 
creased our  desire  to  start. 

Went  through  a  round  of  dinners  at  Hong-Kong,  ex- 
changing civilities  with  officers  and  citizens,  but  began  to  get 
tired  of  this  kind  of  thing ;  like  the  schoolboy,  wanted  to 
go  home  ! 

At  this  time  the  government  of  Macao  changed  again, 
Cardozo  being  recalled,  and  Gruimaraens,  commander  of  the 
corvette  "  Don  Jooa,"  superseding  him,  his  e#-Excellency  de- 
parted for  Lisbon  in  the  return  mail  steamer,  not  much  re- 
gretted, I  understood. 

A  powder  boat  laying  almost  under  our  bows  was 
robbed,  the  powder  removed,  and  its  keeper  earned  away, 
without  exciting  any  attention  ;  so  silently  was  the  act  per- 
formed. • 

As  we  were  leaving  for  Macao,  the  clipper  ship  Witch- 
craft came  in,  disabled,  as  I  have  recorded  in  a  previous 
chapter. 

Whilst  at  Macao,  this  time,  a  very  extensive  fire  oc- 
curred, amongst  China  houses  near  the  Bazaar.  About 
thirty  were  destroyed,  and  a  great  many  goods.  A  silk 
merchant's  loss  was  considerable.  So  frightened  was  the 
fellow,  that  he  removed  his  goods  into  a  house  that  was 


180  Kathay: 

afterwards  burned,  his  own  shop  escaping;  literally  "jump- 
ing out  of  the  frying-pan  into  the  fire." 

On  the  nineteenth  of  December,  ordered  again  to  Wham- 
poa,  to  relieve  our  consort,  and  protect  American  interests 
from  that  imaginary  wolf,  the  rebellion.  Christmas  day 
passed  by  there  gloomily,  and  the  new  year  commenced  un- 
profitably. 

Went  up  to  Canton,  to  witness  a  theatrical  performance, 
by  amateurs,  and  was  delighted.  The  room  was  well  fitted 
up,  and  the  appointments  excellent.  The  play  was,  "  The 
Schoolfellows," — a  beautiful  little  drama,  by  Douglas  Jer- 
rold,  I  believe ;  and  it  was  admirably  cast.  Mr.  Murray  as 
Tom  Drops — a  good-hearted,  liquor-loving  vaut-rien — was 
inimitable.  He  was  waiter  and  hostler  to  a  village  inn ;  and 
the  scene  in  which  he,  upon  wine  being  called  for  by  a  cus- 
tomer, produces,  condemns,  and  consumes,  a  bottle  of  the 
" black  seal"  was  the  perfection  of  acting,  the  different 
phases  of  ebriety  were  well  portrayed,  and  in  the  course  of 
the  play,  additional  red  patches  appeared  upon  his  face,  to 
show  the  effects  of  his  habits.  H 

Box  and  Cox  was  the  after-piece ;  and  Mr.  Clavering  as 
Mrs.  Bouncer,  was  the  very  beau-ideal  of  a  landlady,  "  fair, 
fat,  and  forty."  The  prologue  was  excellent,  and  well  de- 
livered, and  the  amateur  company  had  just  reason  to  be 
proud  of  their  performance. 

Having  been  favored  with  a  copy  of  the  opening  address, 
I  transcribe  it.  Of  course,  it  loses  much  from  the  effect 
given  by  its  composer  in  its  delivery. 


A   Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        181 

"  Fair  ladies,  and  kind  friends,  who  deign  to  smile 
On  our  attempt  an  hour  to  beguile, 
I'm  hither  by  the  actors  sent,  to  pray 
A  gentle  judgment  on  a  first  Essay. 
They  bid  me  state,  their  novel  situation 
Has  set  their  hearts  in  such  strange  perturbation, 
They  dare  not  raise  the  curtain  till  they've  pleaded 
First,  for  the  pardon  will  be  so  much  needed. 
I'm  shocked  to  say,  it  sounds  so  of  the  oddest, 
Our  ladies  want  much  practice  to  look  modest ; 
The  rough,  strong  voice,  ill  suits  with  feelings  tender, 
And  'tis  such  work  to  make  their  waists  look  slender  ! 
As  for  the  men,  the  case  is  little  better ; 
Some,  of  the  dialogue  scarce  know  a  letter : 
All  unacquainted  with  each  classic  rule, 
We  feel  we've  need  enough  to  go  to  school ; 
And  trembling  stand,  afraid  to  come  before  ye, 
And  of  the  Schoolfellows  to  tell  the  story. 
Yet  need  this  be  ?    I  see  no  critic  here  ; 
No  surly  newspaper  have  we  to  fear  ; 
Our  scenery  may  be  bad,  but  this  is  certain, 
Bright  decorations  are  before  the  curtain, 
Under  whose  influence,  you  may  well  believe, 
We  do  not  sigh  for  Stanfield,  grieve  for  Grieve  ! 
Yet  not  too  far  to  carry  innovation, 
And  to  comply  with  settled  regulation, 
Prompter  we  have,  our  memories  to  ease ; 
But  our  best  prompter  is,  the  wish  to  please. 
Then  kindly  say,  to  stumblers  in  their  part, 
What  they  have  got,  was  surely  got  by  heart ; 
And  each,  surrounded  by  his  friends,  so  stands, 
He  will  meet  nought  but  kindness  at  their  hands." 

The  Stanfield  and  Grieve,  upon  whose  names  the  happy 
alliteration  is  made,  are  supposed  to  be  celebrated  English 
scene  painters.  But  although  the  scenery  meets  with  dispar- 
agement in  the  prologue,  yet  it  was  very  superior ;  and  the  in- 


182  K  a  that: 

terior  of  the  old  schoolhouse,  with  the  names  of  the  boys  cut 
into  the  oaken  pannels  of  the  door,  and  on  which  Jasper 
points  out  to  Horace  their  initials  intertwined,  was  a  perfect 
picture. 

Having  gone  thus  far,  I  cannot  omit  a  notice  of  Mr.  Ben- 
jamin Sears'  impersonation  of  the  aged  schoolmaster,  Cedar. 
The  dignity  and  simplicity  of  the  character  combined,  was 
rendered  by  him  in  such  a  manner  as  almost  to  bring  back 
those  forgotten  tears,  drawn  forth  in  olden  times  by  that 
masterpiece  of  acting  of  Harry  Placide's,  in  Grandfather 
Whitehead. 

"  Our  Ladies,"  who  required  so  much  practice  "  to  look 
modest,"  had  become  perfect  in  that  requisite  before  the  up- 
raising of  the  curtain ;  and  the  young  gentlemen  cast  in 
those  characters  sustained  them  with  much  tact,  and  know- 
ledge of  the  demeanor  of  well-bred  ladies :  so  much  so,  in- 
deed, that  after  they  had  got  through  their  parts,  they  were 
added,  still  in  character,  to  the  galaxy  of  "  decorations  before 
the  curtain  ;"  and  the  only  faux  pas  I  noticed  was  by  "Ma- 
rion," who,  in  being  led  to  her  seat  in  the  dress  circle,  was 
about  to  take  an  unladylike  step  ever  an  obstruction,  which 
her  (?)  innate  modesty  checked  with  the  impulse. 

After  the  performance,  all  the  characters  attended  a 
fancy  dress  ball  in  their  stage  costume ;  and  the  pseudo 
ladies  found  partners  in  every  dance,  and  won  many  hearts 
by  their  grace  and  beauty. 

Had  also  a  performance  in  the  "  Reach,"  by  the  crew  of 
H.  B.  M.  steamer  Salamander.  The  larboard  side  of  the 
forecastle  was  allotted  to  them  ;    and  they  gave  a  drama 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.       183 

"  adapted  to  their  stage,"  by  one  of  their  number  called  the 
"  Smuggler,"  which  they  produced  with  good  effect.  The 
performance  was,  as  they  gave  out,  "  under  the  distinguished 
patronage  of  the  American  and  Her  Majesty's  officers." 

But  in  spite  of  all  these  distractions,  our  delay  was 
barely  supportable ;  and  watching  the  course  of  the  muddy 
river,  the  following  lament  was  penned  : 

Oh !  swiftly  flows  thy  dusky  tide, 

Dark  river,  onward  to  the  sea ; 
And  little  doth  thy  current  bide 

The  thousand  things  that  float  on  thee  ! 

From  off  thy  shore  a  weed  is  cast — 

Swiftly,  in  thy  resistless  sway, 
In  eddying  currents,  sweeping  past, 

"lis  borne,  unheeded,  far  away. 

Like  thine,  the  sweeping  tide  of  Time, 

Eolls  onward  ever  to  the  shore 
Of  that  uncertain,  unknown  clime, 

From  which  it  may  return  no  more  ; 

And  on  its  flow,  my  brittle  life 
Drops  down,  uncared  for,  to  that  sea, 

Where,  'midst  the  dark  waves'  stormy  strife, 
It  soon  shall  sink,  and  cease  to  be. 


184  Kathay: 


CHAPTEK  XXIY. 


Commodore  arrives  at  last— Preparations  for  a  Start— Delay— Washington's 
Birthday— The  Clipper  Challenge— Prisoners  from  her— Homeward  Bound! — 
Reflections  on  Leaving— Case  of  Small-Pox— Second  visit  to  Anger. 


rpiiE  flag-ship  being  now  daily  expected,  we  unmoored, 
■*■  and  came  down  to  Macao,  awaiting  her  arrival  in  the 
outer  Roads.  Lay  there,  rolling,  with  occasional  trips  on 
shore,  until  the  fourth  of  February,  when  the  Commodore's 
broad  pendant  hove  in  sight.  He  anchored  in  the  roads : 
and  after  we  had  reported,  ordered  us,  by  signal,  to  accom- 
pany him  to  Hong-Kong.  Here  we  anchored,  and  remained 
until  the  squadron  were  all  assembled,  when  we  were  or- 
dered back  to  Macao,  to  take  in  provisions  for  the  voyage 
home,  and  remove  the  invalids  from  the  hospital.  This  ac- 
complished, we  returned  again  to  the  rendezvous,  to  receive 
our  final  orders,  which  were  to  relieve  us  from  duty  on  the 
station,  and  send  us  home  ! 

Were  delayed  by  the  investigation  of  a  mutiny  on  board 
the  American  clipper  ship  Challenge,  the  ringleaders  being 
then  in  custody  in  the  Hong-Kong  jail,  and  the  case  before 
the  United  States  Consul. 

Washington's  birthday  came  round  again  whilst  we  re- 
mained in  the  harbor  of  Hong-Kong,  and  was  celebrated  by 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        185 

our  squadron,  the  guns  of  which  made  quite  a  noise  in  the 
ears  of  the  descendants  of  those  who  had  once  denounced 
him  as  a  rebel. 

Took  an  opportunity  to  look  at  the  "  Challenge."  She 
is  an  immense  vessel,  243  feet  long,  with  43  feet  beam,  and 
over  2,000  tons  burthen,  but  so  beautifully  proportioned  as 
not  to  appear  above  1,200.  Her  spars  are  immense,  and 
she  spreads  a  cloud  of  canvas.  Depend  upon  it,  she  will 
not  belie  her  name,  but  with  any  kind  of  a  chance,  is  des- 
tined to  make  a  voyage,  which  she  may  confidently  challenge 
the  navies  of  the  world  to  beat ! 

On  the  twenty-fifth  of  Februafy,  the  prisoners  from  the 
Challenge  were  sent  on  board,  six  in  number ;  and  at  6  bells 
p.  m.  got  up  anchor,  and  fired  a  parting  salute,  which  was  re- 
turned by  the  Commodore,  gun  for  gun.  Exchanged  cheers 
with  the  squadron,  made  an  evolution  in  the  harbor,  by  way 
of  "  salaam,"  and  then  stood  out,  with  studding-sails  set, 
homeward  bound  ! 

There  is  a  sort  of  unexpressed  concern,  a  kind  of  shock, 
that  sets  one's  heart  ajar  at  leaving  even  the  most  unpleas- 
ant people  and  places,  says  one  who  ought  to  know,  for 
he  had  travelled  much,  and  I  could  not  help  agreeing  with 
him,  as  we  took  our  departure  :  There  was  but  little  to  re- 
gret in  leaving  China.  I  had  formed  few  ties  there.  The 
places  and  people  (with  but  few  exceptions),  if  not  unpleas- 
ant, were  at  least  indifferent.  Yet  I  must  admit  this  unex- 
pressed and  inexpressible  concern,  as  our  vessel  glided  out 
of  the  harbor  of  Hong-Kong,  towards  home. 

But  we  had  a  long  passage  before  us,  and  much  water 
9* 


186  Kathay: 

to  sail  through,  ere  we  reached  our  homes.  The  China  and 
the  Java  seas  had  to  be  traversed  ere  the  Straits  of  Sunda 
gave  us  a  passage  to  the  Indian  Ocean,  whose  bosom  we  had 
to  plough  until  the  southern  point  of  Africa  passed,  the  At- 
lantic could  be  pressed  by  our  keel ; — and  then  not  the 
Ocean  of  our  hemisphere :  for  many  degrees  of  longitude 
must  be  tracked,  before  we  could  set  them  down  as  West ; 
and  the  imaginary  "  Line "  divided  us  from  the  Northern 
Ocean,  in  which  lay  our  port. 

Took  our  departure  from  the  "  Ladrone  Islands "  at  8 
o'clock  on  the  night  of  the  twenty-fifth,  and  the  next  day  at 
meridian,  we  had  made  *28  miles  on  a  S.  S.  West  course. 
Weather  fine ;  beautiful,  easy  sailing,  with  the  wind  abeam. 

On  the  twenty-seventh,  wind  hauled  ahead,  and  we  only 
got  eighty-eight  miles  out  of  the  ship  in  the  last  twenty-four 
hours ;  and  for  the  last  two  days  of  February  had  a  dead 
beat — a  thing  altogether  unlooked  for  in  the  China  Sea  at 
this  season. 

On  Thursday,  eleventh  of  March, — sea  time, — at  meridian, 
we  were  thirteen  miles  south  of  the  Line,  in  long.  lOY0  227 
55/7  east ;  being  the  third  time  of  our  "  crossing "  it.  A 
few  days  previous  to  this  a  case  of  small-pox  had  broken 
out,  one  of  the  prisoners  having  contracted  the  disease  in 
Hong-Kong,  where  it  had  been  raging  to  some  extent.  This 
was  rather  a  serious  matter  in  a  small  and  crowded  ship  at 
sea ;  but  he,  being  placed  in  the  lee  quarter  boat,  and  a 
strong  N.  E.  monsoon  then  prevailing,  after  a  while  recovered, 
no  contagion  having  been  communicated  to  the  ship's  com- 
pany. 


A  Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        187 

The  Island  of  Saint  Barbe  was  passed  on  the  morning  of 
the  last  date.  It  is  a  beautiful  island,  uninhabited,  and  as 
near  the  line  as  can  be. 

On  St.  Patrick's  day,  1 1th.  March,  came  to  anchor  at  An- 
ger, where  we  stopped  for  a  supply  of  water  and  wood.  I 
have  described  this  place  in  an  earlier  chapter,  and  on  land- 
ing found  the  town  without  much  change.  The  Banyan 
tree  still  there,  with  the  Dutch  flag  above  it,  and  the  string 
of  half  clad  Malays  on  their  usual  walk  between  it  and  the 
Bazaar.  The  former  mansion  of  the  Governor  had  been  de- 
stroyed by  fire,  and  a  new  Governor  had  been  installed,  who 
occupied  the  house  formerly  used  as  a  hotel.  He  was  ab- 
sent on  official  duty,  but  his  Secretary  did  the  honors  of  re- 
ception. 

Naturally  looking  round  for  our  old  friend,  the  Dutch 
landlord,  found  him  in  a  smaller  house,  his  only  customer ; 
had  expected  to  have  heard  that  he  had  fallen  a  victim  to 
his  love  for  "  schnapps,"  but  here  he  was  as  blooming  as 
ever,  and  as  much  addicted  to  his  national  liquor — certainly 
gin  appeared  to  have  agreed  with  him. 

Took  possession  of  his  quarters  at  once,  and  ordered  a 
supper,  of  which  some  slap-jacks  was  the  only  dish  eatable. 
Composed  ourselves  for  the  night,  on  a  mattress  hauled  from 
his  own  bed,  with  expectation  of  a  more  comfortable  break- 
fast, which,  with  the  addition  of  eggs,  and  the  omission  of 
slap-jacks,  was  a  fac-simile  of  the  evening  meal. 

There  was  one  thing  peculiar  about  the  eggs,  which  I 
would  recommend  be  introduced  into  the  United  States,  viz., 
to  have  the  date  of  the  time  in  which  they  were  laid  marked 


188  Kathay: 

upon  the  shell,  as  he  had,  only  proposing  that  the  marker  be 
sworn  as  to  the  correctness  of  the  date ;  in  which  case  the 
Dutchman  would  have  perjured  himself,  I  fear. 

Had  a  splendid  bath,  by  favor  of  the  Secretary,  in  the 
Governor's  bath-house,  which  was  large  enough  to  swim  in, 
and  constantly  supplied  with  fresh  water  by  the  same  aque- 
duct that  brings  it  to  the  shipping.  Our  compradore  gave  us 
a  treat  of  mangusteens,  delicious  fruit,  and  then  the  cornet 
being  hoisted  at  the  fore,  the  signal  for  sailing,  repaired  on 
board,  having  spent  twenty-four  hours  very  pleasantly  again 
at  Anger. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.       189 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

No  Musquitoes  at  Anger— The  Land  of  the  East— A  Sketch— Ad  vantages  of  Anger 
— Dolce-far-Niente— Island  of  Java — Batavia— Bantam— Comparison  between 
Anger  and  Singapore. 

A  PECULIARITY  about  Anger  is,  that  there  are  no  mus- 
-£*-  quitoes  there,  and  very  few  of  the  noxious  vermin  that 
destroy  the  romance  of  tropical  climes.  It  does  very  well  in 
poetry,  to  pen,  in  pretty  phrase,  the  query  of  your  acquaint- 
ance with  the 

"Land  of  the  orange  and  myrtle  ;" 

but  they  are  more  than  poetically  "  emblems  of  deeds  that 
are  done  in  their  clime,"  and  gastric  derangement  from  the 
former  fruit,  with  cutaneous  affections  from  the  sweet-scented 
vine,  are  not  the  only  proofs  of  a  change  in  the  properties  of 
the  Garden  of  Eden.  "  Latet  anguis  in  herba,"  of  the  most 
inviting  natural  lawn,  and  of  its  gayest  flowers,  truly  has  the 
poet  said,  "  the  trail  of  the  serpent  is  over  them  all."  The 
East  is  called  the  "  land  of  the  sun,"  and  justly  too,  for  he 
reigns  supreme  there,  and  if  you  defy  his  power,  soon  brings 
you  to  your  senses,  or  rather  deprives  you  of  them,  by  a 
coup  de  soleil.  Evading  his  beams  you  seek  the  covert  of  a 
grateful  shade,  where  the  spreading  palm,  with  parasol-like 


190  Kathay: 

• 

leaves,  forms  romantic  shelter,  the  cocoa-nut  in  its  triple  clus- 
ter hanging  invitingly  in  its  crotch  ;  away  high  up  upon  its 
straight  and  graceful  stem,  birds  of  magnificent  plumage  are 
flitting  from  tree  to  tree,  making  the  grove  vocal  with  their 
notes ;  monkeys,  mischievous,  but  not  considered  dangerous, 
dance  overhead  upon  the  boughs,  and  with  comic  antics  pro- 
voke a  smile.  With  gentle  breezes  wafting  perfumes  such 
as  Gouraud  never  was  gladdened  with  in  his  most  happy 
ambrosial  dreams,  and  glimpses  of  the  blue  sky,  seen  par- 
tially through  the  waving  foliage,  which  gently  moves  with 
a  composing  sound,  reminding  you  that  "  Heaven  is  above 
all,"  you  close  your  eyes,  about  to  sink  into  the  arms  of  the 
"  twin  sister"  of  that  mysterious  deity,  who  bears  you  thither, 
when — wiss-s-rattle,  crack — down  comes  a  cocoa-nut,  denting 
the  ground  within  two  inches  from  whence  you  had  just 
jerked  your  happy  head,  which  had  it  hit  would  have  trans- 
ferred you  from  the  arms  of  one  "twin"  to  the  other;  and  a 
malicious  monkey  scampers  off  chattering  and  grinning,  as 
if  he  had  performed  a  feat  worthy  of  his  prototype — man  ! 

"  Oh  know  you  the  land  of  the  orange  and  myrtle  ?" 
where  the  Thug  crawls  cautiously  with  his  strangling  cord, 
and  the  tiger  welcomes  you  with  his  feline  fangs ! 

But  Anger — please  pronounce  it  softly,  as  if  written  thus, 
Anjeer — Anger  is  not  so  bad  as  described  in  the  foregoing 
sketch ;  as  I  have  stated,  there  are  no  musquitoes  there,  and 
you  are  not  much  troubled  with  those  bumping,  buzzing  bugs, 
who  "  put  out  the  light,  and  then  put  out  their  light."  Lizards 
crawl  over  the  walls  and  ceilings,  but  they  are  harmless,  and 
catch  flies.    I  do  not  know  how  it  is,  and  it  may  be  thought  a 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        191 

strange  taste,  but  I  rather  affection  the  lizard.  His  frugal 
habits,  his  unobstrusive  manners,  and  that  cunning  blink  of 
his  bright  black  eyes,  have  taken  away  that  aversion  which 
is  a  natural  sentiment  towards  that  species  of  animals  "  which 
crawl  upon  the  belly  ;"  and  upon  the  whole,  must  confess  I 
consider  him,  despite  his  ugly  tail,  a  very  proper  domestic 
animal ;  more  so  than  many  other  gluttonous  pets. 

Tigers,  it  is  true,  are  said  to  prowl  about  at  night,  seeking 
something  to  devour,  but  I  never  encountered  one,  else  I 
might  not  have  been  here  to  write  about  them.  Crocodiles 
infest  the  stream  that  winds  around  and  about  the  Malay 
houses.  But  they  do  not  appear  to  hold  them  in  dread,  for 
I  have  seen  men,  women,  children  and  crocodiles  in  the  same 
water,  and  at  the  same  time.  That  they,  the  crocodiles,  are 
not  converts  to  Malthus,  is  pretty  apparent,  from  the  number 
of  tender  infants  they  permit  to  be  added  to  the  census  of 
the  Malay  population. 

Upon  the  whole,  there  was  something  about  Anger  pe- 
culiarly pleasing  to  me ;  whether  that  it  had  been  the  "  first 
of  Eastern  lands"  I  had  trodden  upon,  or  there  could  have 
been  any  thing  conducive  to  the  "  dolce-far-niente"  feeling  in 
its  atmosphere,  but  I  felt  as  if  I  could  have  laid  back  and 
smoked  segars  in  Mynheer's  porch  for  the  remainder  of  my 
days — 

"The  world  forgetting,  by  the  world  forgot." 

Don't  know  how  long  the  feeling  would  have  lasted  had  I 
indulged  it  ad  libitum ;  but  I  certainly  did  enjoy  the  few 


192  K  at  hay: 

hours  passed  there  in  a  kind  of  dreamy  abstraction,  which 
approached  the  pleasure  of  the  opium-eater's  reverie. 

The  Island  of  Java,  sometimes  called  "  Great,"  on  account 
of  Balie  having  once  been  called  by  the  same  name,  is  near- 
ly five  hundred  miles  in  length,  and  a  place  of  considerable 
importance  in  the  commercial  world ;  that  part  of  it  occu- 
pied by  the  Dutch,  producing  coffee,  rice,  and  "  straits  pro- 
duce." Batavia,  the  principal  settlement,  is  a  city  of  con- 
siderable importance,  only  about  sixty  miles  by  land  from 
Anger,  a  communication  being  kept  up  by  post  between  the 
two  places.  It  is  described  as  a  very  populous  and  beauti- 
ful city,  but  of  a  climate,  at  certain  seasons,  deadly  to  Euro- 
peans. The  Governor-General  of  the  Dutch  possessions  in 
the  East  Indies,  resides  at  Batavia,  and  it  is  the  depdt  of  the 
Dutch  trade.  It  is  well  known  that  the  English  possessed 
themselves  of  this  place  after  the  provinces  had  declared  war 
against  Great  Britain,  and  lost  more  men  during  its  short 
occupancy,  by  disease,  than  by  the  casualties  of  war.  Ban- 
tam is  also  neighboring  to  Anger,  with  which  a  post  route  is 
also  kept  up  ;  it  was  once  a  place  of  considerable  importance, 
but  has  fallen  into  decay,  Batavia  obtaining  its  trade,  and 
rising  upon  its  ruins. 

Anger  itself,  from  its  advantageous  position  in  the  Straits 
of  Sunda,  with  an  enterprising  population,  might  become  a 
place  of  considerable  importance,  and  rival  in  time  its  neigh- 
bor, Sincapore,  in  the  Straits  of  Malacca.  It  is  now  the 
stopping  place  for  nearly  every  vessel  passing  through  these 
Straits  for  water  and  provisions,  and  there  is  nothing  to  pre- 
vent its  becoming  an  emporium  for  the  products  of  this  fer- 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        193 

tile  Island,  excepting  the  short-sighted  policy  of  the  Dutch, 
who  wishing  to  centre  all  the  trade  at  Batavia,  force  the  mer- 
chantmen to  a  sickly  city  for  the  pepper,  coffee,  rice,  &c, 
raised  upon  it.  Nothing  is  allowed  to  be  exported  from  An- 
ger, and  when  we  wished  to  procure  some  coffee  for  use  on 
board  ship,  found  it  only  could  be  obtained  in  an  underhand 
manner.  If  the  English  when  they  took  possession  of  the 
island,  had  but  made  a  settlement  and  retained  this  point, 
they  would  have  found  it  greatly  to  their  advantage,  even 
more  profitable  than  Sincapore. 


194  Kathay: 


CHAPTEE  XXVI. 

Pass  through  Sunda  Strait— H.  B.  M.  S.  Rattler— Catch  the  Trades— A  learned 
opinion  on  Diaries — Extracts  from  Diary— Isle  of  France— Its  Romance — 
Bourbon— Mauritius— Cape  of  Good  Hope— Description— Trouble  in  getting  in 
— Table  Bay  and  Mountain. 

IN  passing  through  the  Straits,  after  leaving  Anger,  H.  B. 
M.  screw  propeller  "  Rattler"  went  up  on  her  way  to 
China.  Did  not  envy  her  officers,  nor  feel  at  all  inclined  to 
exchange  with  them. 

Ran  out  of  the  Straits  witli  a  fine  leading  wind,  taking 
our  departure  from  Java-Head  at  early  daylight  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  19th  of  March ;  struck  the  "trades"  at  once,  and 
held  them  to  the  28th,  when  had  made  1550  miles. 

The  distance  run,  by  log,  from  Hong-Kong  to  Anger, 
was  just  nineteen  hundred  forty-five  and  three-fourth  miles, 
making  us  at  that  time  exactly  three  thousand  four  hundred 
and  ninety-six  on  our  way  home.  This  was  done  in  a  little 
over  thirty  days,  including  stoppage. 

The  learned  Baron  of  Verulam  has  said  :  "It  is  a  strange 
thing  in  sea  voyages,  when  there  is  nothing  to  be  seen  but 
sea  and  sky,  that  men  should  make  diaries,  and  omit  them 
in  land  travel,  as  if  chance  were  fitter  to  be  registered  than 
observation."  Now  I  have  made  my  diary,  both  at  sea  and 
on  shore,  and  copy  from  it : 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        195 

At  Sea,  Sunday,  April  11th,  1852. — Have  now  run 
down  to  the  southward  of  the  Island  of  Madagascar,  and 
are  in  the  same  longitude,  having  passed  the  Isle  of  France, 
or  the  "Mauritius,"  and  Bourbon  safely.  Hurricanes  prevail 
off  these  islands,  but  we  have  only  had  one  small  blow.  Last 
Sunday  caught  a  shark,  about  seven  feet  and  a  half  long. 
Some  of  the  men  ate  part  of  him. 

Beautiful  "  Isle  of  France,"  degraded  into  Mauritius  by 
the  Dutch  in  honor  of  their  Stadtholder  Maurice,  but  made 
celebrated  by  the  pen  of  Bernardin  St.  Pierre,  as  the  scene 
of  the  life,  loves  and  "  fate  of  Paul  and  Virginia,  and  conse- 
crated by  their  tomb !"  Creative  power  of  genius,  thus  to 
constitute  an  insignificant  island,  far,  far  away  amongst  the 
distant  waves  of  the  Indian  Ocean,  a  shrine  to  which  pil- 
grims shall  resort  in  honor  of  true  and  young  and  ill-starred 
love ! 

Bourbon,  too,  the  Island  of  Reunion — happy  nomen- 
clature— has  also  pleasant  associations  connected  with  its 
name. 

Madagascar,  however,  from  its  importance,  is  worthy  of 
a  passing  notice.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  islands  known. 
It  covers,  in  the  Indian  Ocean,  the  spaces  between  latitudes 
12°  and  25°  degrees  'south,  and  the  longitudes  43°  and  51° 
east  of  London ;  at  a  close  calculation,  has  been  found  to 
fill  up  a  superficies  of  over  two  hundred  thousand  square 
miles ; — equal  in  extent  to  the  Pyrenean  peninsula,  com- 
posed of  Spain  and  Portugal.  It  has  been  but  little  ex- 
plored ;  but  treaties  have  been  made  with  its  reigning  pow- 
ers by  both  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States. 


196  Kathay: 

Monday,  Apil  19th. — At  sea,  in  latitude  35°  13',  about 
one  degree  south  of  the  Cape.  Have  been  prevented  from 
making  entries  in  diary  by  rough  weather,  and  heartily 
joined  the  schoolmaster  in  his  wish,  that  "  if  Britannia  ruled 
the  waves,  she  would  bring  them  more  parallel  to  the 
"Line  /" 

Sunday,  April  25th,  1852. — Are  now  off  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  called  by  its  discoverer,  Diaz,  Cabo  Tormentoso, 
or  the  Tormenting  Cape,  from  the  storms  he  encountered 
in  its  latitude.  And  well  was  it  named,  too,  in  our  case  ; 
for  here  we  are,  with  a  wind  right  in  our  teeth,  trying  to 
beat  up  to  Table  Bay,  and  chasseeing  to  the  Cape,  as  if  to 
a  stationary  partner. 

Just  sixty  days  from  China,  and  have  run  by  reckoning 
seven  thousand  one  hundred  and  forty-five  miles, — our  course 
giving  us  five  thousand  one  hundred  and  ninety-four  and  one- 
half  miles  from  Anger. 

On  Friday  night  last,  while  becalmed  off  Cape  Algulhas, 
caught  a  number  of  very  fine  fish  on  the  Algulhas  banks. 
One  kind  was  called  "  Cape  Salmon ;"  another  species  was 
known  at  Cape  Town  by  the  name  of  "  King  Clip." 

On  last  Sunday,  had  made  our  calculations  to  be  in 
Cape  Town  on  the  ensuing  Tuesday,  from  the  fine  wind  we 
had  ;  but  if  we  get  in  by  next  Tuesday,  shall  consider  our- 
selves fortunate.  Can  appreciate  the  situation  of  Mynheer 
Vanderdecken  now,  and  his  anxiety  to  forward  letters  by 
passing  vessels.  Shall  take  advantage  of  the  steamer  for 
England,  at  Cape  Town,  to  forward  some  myself;  which 
have  hopes  will  be  more  fortunate  in  reaching  their  destina- 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.       197 

tion  than  the  dispatches  of  the  Flying  Dutchman,  passing 
there,  as  they  will,  through  the  Colonial  Post  Office. 

The  Cape  of  Good  Hope  is  not  the  most  extreme  point 
of  Southern  Africa,  the  before-mentioned  Algulhas  extending 
farther  into  the  Southern  Ocean.  Cape  Town  is  to  the 
westward  of  the  Cape,  upon  an  indentation  called  Table  Bay. 
But  I  will  now  resume  my  diary,  as  we  are  approaching 
a  place  proper  for  it  to  be  kept,  according  to  the  learned 
Lord  BacOn.     The  next  date  is, 

Southern  Atlantic  Ocean,  May  3d,  1852. — Since  last 
entry  have  been  into  Table  Bay,  for  water,  and  have  been 
on  shore  at  Cape  Town.  Are  now,  as  above,  in  latitude  30° 
247  south,  with  the  wind  dead  aft,  heading  up  the  Atlantic 
for  home  :  and  from  our  last  departure,  begin  to  say  at  last, 
"  We're  homeward  bound  !" 

On  Monday  last,  April  26th,  came  to  anchor  in  Table 
Bay  about  5  p.  m.,  having  spent  that  and  the  previous  day 
in  trying  to  get  in. 

The  approach  to  Cape  Town  is  interesting ;  Table  Moun- 
tain, with  its  extensive  flat  top,  forming  a  prominent  feature. 
Before  you  round  the  point,  which  shuts  in  the  anchor- 
age, and  excludes  a  view  of  the  town,  leaving  only  the  heavy 
brow  of  this  mountain  visible,  you  pass  along  a  coast  com- 
posed of  a  long  sloping  hill  in  the  proportions  of  a  lion 
couchant.  It  extends  eastwardly  and  westwardly,  and  the 
"  Lion's  Head  "  is  first  seen  as  you  approach  from  the  east- 
ward. Upon  the  mount  called  thus,  is  a  large  rock,  very 
similar  in  appearance  to  the  outlines  of  a  sculptured  lion,  of 


198  Kathay: 

the  Egyptian  style  of  carving.  The  hill  gradually  diminish- 
ing, makes  a  good  representation  of  the  mane  and  hinder 
parts  of  a  reposing  lion  ;  on  what  is  distinguished  as  "  the 
Rump,"  is  a  signal  station :  along  the  part  forming  the 
flanks  are  distributed  beautiful  country-seats :  rounding  "  the 
Rump,"  the  town  is  visible,  with  Table  Bay,  and  shipping. 

Table  Bay  in  itself  is  not  very  imposing  ;  is  a  bad  road- 
stead, and  vessels  intending  to  make  any  stay  at  the  colony, 
go  round  to  Simon's  Bay,  which  is  a  safe  roadstead  within 
the  larger  one  called  False  Bay.  Numerous  windmills  along 
the  shore  are  remarkable  objects,  and  prove  the  scarcity  of 
water  to  grind  the  corn.  It  is  a  feature  in  the  economy  of 
Southern  Africa,  that  streams,  which  are  torrents  at  one  sea- 
son, become  almost  dry  beds  in  the  other. 

Table  Mountain,  with  the  well  laid  out  town  at  its  base, 
flanked  bv  "  Devil's  Peak "  and  "  Lion's  Head,"  makes  a 
majestic,  natural  frame  to  a  beautiful  landscape.  This  sin- 
gular mountain,  before  whose  noble  proportions  the  works 
of  man  sink  into  insignificance, — his  dwellings  appearing, 
from  its  summit,  mere  ant-hills, — is  3,582  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  ocean ;  and  for  one  thousand  or  more  feet  from 
its  top  descends  on  the  north-east  side  perpendicularly, 
whilst  the  flat  appearance  of  its  lengthened  surface  com- 
pletes the  resemblance  to  the  piece  of  furniture  from  which 
it  receives  its  soubriquet. 

The  long  even  line,  cutting  the  sky  at  right  angles,  was 
very  pretty  to  look  at  while  I  was  there.  But  a  few  weeks 
after,  when  iEolus  spreads  "  the  cloth,"  and  invites  the  winds 


A  Cruise  in  the  China  Seas. 


199 


to  a  feast,  then  let  the  mariner,  whose  vessel  may  be  caught 
in  the  bay  beneath,  beware.  Forth  from  their  revels  they 
rush  over  its  precipitous  sides,  and  ships  become  their  play- 
things, and  man  their  prey  ! 


200  Katiiay: 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Land  at  Cape  Town— Hotels  and  Widows— Drive  to  Constantia— Description  of 
Drive — Price  of  Wine — Manumission  of  Slaves — Seasons  at  the  Cape — The 
Town  through  a  Microscope,  &c.  &c. 

LANDED  at  Cape  Town  on  a  fine  jetty,  which  projects 
some  distance  into  the  bay.  This,  with  another  about 
a  mile  above,  are  the  only  landing  places.  Stopped  at 
"  Parke's  Hotel,"  at  its  head.  This  is  kept  by  a  widow  lady, 
and  a  spruce  dandy  of  a  mulatto  superintends  its  internal 
arrangements  in  the  capacity  of  steward.  There  are  two 
other  hotels, — "  The  Masonic,"  and  "  Welch's," — and  a  club- 
house. I  believe  all  the  houses  of  entertainment  here  have 
widows  at  their  head — Sam  Weller's  injunction  needed  here 
— "  Parke's  "  I  know  to  be  ;  "  Welch's,"  I  think,  is  ;  and  two 
"  Widows,"  at  least  in  name,  being  man  and  wife  with  that 
appellation,  spread  forth  the  good  things  at  "  The  Masonic ;" 
and  I  have  heard  there  are  no  bereavements  there. 

After  a  fine  bath, — my  first  care  in  every  port, — took  a 
stroll  through  the  town.  There  is  at  the  head  of  the  street, 
on  which  the  hotel  was  situated,  a  splendid  wide  avenue, 
planted  with  rows  of  majestic  oaks,  their  branches  meeting 
overhead.  This  extends  over  one  mile  ;  on  one  side  of  it  is 
the  Governor's  Palace  and  grounds,  cut  off  from  vulgar  feet 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.       201 

by  a  moat,  or  walled  ditch,  and  accessible  by  a  small  draw- 
bridge from  the  avenue.     Opposite  is  a  Botanical  Garden. 

With  a  party  from  the  ship,  hired  a  splendid  barouche 
and  team,  and  drove  out  to  "  Constantia,"  about  thirteen 
miles,  where  the  wine  is  made.  It  is  a  most  beautiful  drive, 
lined  on  either  side  by  English  country-houses,  with  sur- 
rounding grounds,  intersected  by  broad  avenues,  smooth 
roads  and  walks,  with  green  lawns  spreading  out  around 
them,  covered  with  close-clipped  oak  trees. 

The  drive  was  rather  dusty,  which  somewhat  detracted 
from  its  pleasure ;  but  a  shower  of  rain  opportunely  coming 
up,  made  the  return  more  agreeable. 

Passed  through  a  number  of  villages,  among  them 
Wynberg, — a  nourishing,  pretty  place.  Saw  a  great  num- 
ber of  school-houses  and  churches ;  but  taverns,  "  licensed 
to  sell  spirituous  liquors,"  as  appeared  upon  their  signs,  were 
most  numerous  on  this  road.  A  small  chapel  was  being 
built,  which,  from  its  dimensions,  supposed  to  be  of  the 
established  church,  and  no  increase"  of  congregation  ex- 
pected. 

Visited  the  Vinery  of  S.  Van  Renen  &  Co.,  High  Con- 
stantia. Was  well  received,  although  the  coachman  drove 
us  to  the  wrong  place;  and  we  handed  him  a  letter  ad- 
dressed to  a  Mr.  Colyin,  a  neighbor,  thinking  it  to  be  his 
place. 

The  grape  season  was  over :  wine  had  been  all  pressed  and 

stowed  away.    They  gather  the  grape  in  March,  but  it  is 

allowed  to  become  almost  a  raisin  on  the  stem  before  it  is 

plucked.      Tasted    these  wines ;    found  them    sweet  and 

10 


202  K  a  t  ii  a  y  : 

luscious,  too  much  so  for  my  palate.     This  peculiar  flavor  is 
caused  by  the  condition  of  the  grape  when  pressed. 

Prices  of  Constantia  in  Cask. 

Copied  from  a  Table  on  the  Card  of  S.  Van  Renen  da  Co. 

19  Gallons.         10  Gallons.         5  Gallons. 

Pontac  Constantia, £14  £8  £5 

Frontignac     "        10  6  4 

White             "        9  5  3 

Eed                 "        9  5  3 

M.  Van  Renen,  whom  we  found  on  the  premises,  after  ex- 
hibiting the  different  wines,  took  us  over  the  place,  and  showed 
us  a  collection  of  the  different  aborigines  of  South  Africa,  in 
statuary.  There  were  Kaffirs,  Hottentots,  Fingoes,  Betjouanas, 
and  Boschmen.  M.  V.  deprecated  the  abolition  of  slavery  as  a 
great  injury  to  the  agriculturists  and  vine-growers  of  the  colo- 
ny. They  can  get  no  one  to  perform  any  continuous  labor,  and 
whilst  at  one  time  his  establishment  kept  eighty  able-bodied 
men  at  work,  would  find  it  difficult  to  get  three  now  whom 
they  could  depend  upon.  Living  in  a  climate  where  cloth- 
ing beyond  the  demands  of  decency  is  scarcely  needed,  and 
where  the  products  of  labor  for  two  days  will  support  the 
careless  negro  for  one  week,  naturally  improvident,  he  takes 
no  heed  for  the  morrow,  and  becomes  lazy,  idle,  and  intem- 
perate ;  and  when  he  can  be  persuaded  to  work,  with  the 
prospect  of  high  wages,  wherewith  to  purchase  that  neces- 
sary stimulus  which  has  already  nearly  deprived  him  of  his 
capacities,  as  soon  as  he  can  obtain  them  he  rushes  to  the 
grog  shop,  from  whence  he  may  not  be  expected  to  return 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        203 

until   his  wants    compel   him    again   to   his   intermittent 
labor. 

The  colonists,  especially  the  agricultural  part  of  them, 
complain  bitterly  of  hasty  legislation  in  depriving  them 
of  slave  labor.  They  had  offered  to  submit  to  a  gradual 
manumission,  so  that  by  degrees  they  might  be  able  to  sup- 
ply the  place  of  the  negro  operatives,  but  the  English  gov- 
ernment would  set  them  free  at  once,  and  the  result  has 
been  injurious  to  the  freedman  and  ruinous  to  the  farmer. 
Was  told  that  land  could  be  purchased  about  Constantia  at 
the  low  rate  of  one  shilling  the  acre,  altogether  owing  to  the 
inability  to  procure  labor  to  cultivate  it ;  and  to  bring  about 
this  state  of  things  here  and  elsewhere,  some  £20,060,000 
was  expended ! 

Eeturning  from  Constantia,  our  spanking  team  of  four 
well  proportioned  iron  grays,  attracted  considerable  atten- 
tion. It  ought  to  have,  for  the  expense  of  its  hire  was 
two  pounds  ten  shillings.  Stopped  at  the  "  Crown  Inn," 
upon  the  road,  for  refreshments,  and  on  handing  a  ragged 
little  urchin  a  shilling  for  his  voluntary  service  of  standing 
at  the  door  of  our  barouche,  on  starting  off  were  saluted 
by  a  hiss  for  our  generosity.  A  greater  douceur  was  ex- 
pected from  the  drivers  of  such  a  magnificent  turnout. 

The  road,  a  greater  part  of  it,  was  a  turnpike,  very  even 
and  smooth;  paid  toll,  one  shilling.  Drove  through  an 
avenue  of  large  oak  trees,  their  topmost  branches  meeting 
overhead,  to  the  extent  of  one  fourth  of  a  mile,  forming  a 
fine  shade  in  summer.  The  seasons,  of  which  there  are  but 
two,  winter  and  summer,  are  reversed  in  Southern  Africa ; 


204  K  A  T  II  A  y  : 

July  being  a  cool  month,  and  Christmas  coming  in  midsum- 
mer at  the  Cape. 

Returned  to  dinner  at  the  hotel  at  seven  o'clock,  and  ate 
some  splendid  Cape  mutton.  The  caudal  arrangements  of 
the  sheep  at  the  Cape  bear  a  great  similarity  to  those  at 
Shanghae. 

After  supper  set  out  for  a  walk,  in  which  were  disap- 
pointed by  a  shower.  It  rains  only  in  the  winter  season 
here,  but  heavy  dews  in  the  summer  make  up  this  deficiency 
of  nature's  nourishment,  and  the  colony  is  carpeted  with 
herbage  of  the  most  delicious  fragrance,  so  that  the  paths  of 
the  colonists  may  then  be  said  to  be  strewn  with  flowers. 

The  winters  at  the  Cape  are  extremely  mild ;  no  snow 
falls  there ;  and  if  at  night  ice  is  formed,  it  does  not  long 
withstand  the  rays  of  the  sun.  The  season  corresponds  in 
its  general  features  with  our  autumn.  In  the  interior  the  win- 
ters are  said  to  be  more  severe,  and  streams  are  sometimes 
frozen  over. 

Although  it  was  the  first  winter  month,  in  M.  Van 
Renen's  orange  grove  at  Constantia,  the  trees  were  so  laden 
with  the  Hesperian  fruit,  that  their  limbs  were  bent  to  the 
ground  and  many  broken.  Saw  there  also,  pomegranates, 
liquots,  rose  apples,  and  a  variety  of  tropical  fruits,  some 
ready  to  pluck,  others  in  different  stages  of  ripening. 

Up  betimes  the  next  morning  for  a  walk  through  Cape 
Town.  Streets  wide  and  clean,  principally  paved  or  mac- 
adamized. No  banquettes ;  porches  project  in  front  of  the 
houses,  covering  the  trottoir,  and  pedestrians  are  forced  into 
the  middle  of  the  street.     That  Hibernian  must  have  been 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.       205 

an  emigrant  to  Cape  Town,  who  remarked  that  "  the  middle 
of  the  street  was  the  best  side  of  the  way." 

The  houses,  however,  present  a  fine  appearance  exter- 
nally ;  they  are  usually  about  three  stories  in  height,  and 
being  stuccoed,  are  painted  in  imitation  of  free-stone.  Their 
tops  are  flat,  to  which  their  occupants  repair  to  spend  the 
remainder  Qf  the  evening  after  their  late  dinners.  There  is  a 
freshness  about  the  place  which  is  quite  reviving  after  many 
days  at  sea,  and  was  particularly  pleasant  to  us,  who  had 
seen  nothing  but  filthy  Chinese  towns  for  two  years  and  up- 
wards ;  Hong-Kong  having  been  the  nearest  approach  to  a 
civilized  community  we  had  visited  during  the  cruise,  and 
even  there  the  "long- tailed  pig-eyed  Celestial"  predomi- 
nated. 

The  parade  ground  is  an  extensive  oblong  space  run- 
ning along  the  strand,  with  a  ditch  dividing  it  from  Strand- 
street.  It  has  a  border  of  a  double  row  of  fine  flowering 
trees,  and  must  be  a  delightful  place  for  a  stroll  on  a  sum- 
mer evening. 

The  Commercial  Exchange  and  Library  rooms  are  upon 
it,  fronting  the  principal  street ;  and  back  of  the  Exchange 
is  a  rough  brick  and  mortar  pillar  to  mark  the  spot  where 
Sir  J.  Herschell,  the  astronomer,  made  his  observations. 

Near  the  parade  ground,  and  facing  it,  are  the  barracks, 
manned  at  that  time  by  women,  their  husbands,  the  soldiers, 
having  been  shipped  off  to  Kaffir  land.  By  the  way;  a  ter- 
rible accident  had  occurred  a  few  weeks  before  our  arrival,  to 
her  Britannic  Majesty's  steamer  Berkenhead,  employed  in 
transporting  troops  up  the  coast,  to  the  war.     She  struck 


206  K  a  that: 

upon  "  Point  Danger,"  and  going  down  almost  immediately, 
four  out  of  five  hundred  of  those  on  board  were  drowned. 

I  was  told  that  only  about  eighty  men  had  been  left  to 
garrison  the  town,  and  that  a  panic  had  lately  been  gotten 
up,  from  fears  of  a  rising  of  the  colored  population.  The 
lazy  negroes,  whom  England,  in  her  mistaken  philanthropy, 
had  liberated,  not  being  compelled  to  work,  chose  to  rob 
and  steal. 

The  Custom-house,  an  unpretending  building,  with  the 
letters  and  numerals  G.  IV.  R.  over  its  portals,  is  also  on 
Strand-street,  fronting  the  "  Parade." 

Early  on  the  last  morning  ashore  took  a  walk  to  the  new 
market  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town,  where  the  wholesale 
farmers  bring  their  produce  by  teams  drawn  by  from  ten  to 
fifteen  }Toke  of  oxen.  These  animals  are  the  most  suitable 
beasts  for  draught  I  have  ever  seen.  With  their  long  legs 
they  get  over  the  ground  nearly  as  fast  as  a  horse,  in  a 
walk,  and,  when  required,  go  off  in  a  fine,  easy,  and  not  un- 
graceful trot.  They  bring  in  immense  loads,  and  come  a 
great  distance,  over  mountainous  ways.  The  wagons  they 
draw  resemble  those  known  as  the  Conestoga,  on  many  of 
which  noticed  a  projection  astern  something  like  a  poop, 
serving  as  a  sleeping  cabin  for  the  owners  and  drivers.  In 
meeting  these  teams  on  the  road,  one  at  first  imagines  them 
to  be  a  drove  of  beeves,  but  is  soon  undeceived  by  the 
crack  of  the  lash — "  long  as  the  maintop-bowline" — striking 
against  the  side  of  a  lagging  bullock. 

The  new  market  is  walled  in,  with  gateways  at  either 
side  to  admit  these  teams,  which,  when  they  enter,  and  the 


A    Cruise    if    the    China    Seas.       207 

wagon  has  been  placed  in  a  line  with  others,  are  outspan- 
ned,  that  is,  detached ;  and  form  an  immense  herd  in  front 
of  the  wagons,  the  line  of  which,  with  the  wall  of  the  mar- 
ket place,  make  a  complete  corral. 

The  reason  why  I  call  these  farmers  wholesale,  is,  that 
all  the  produce  brought  by  them  is  disposed  of  by  lot  to  the 
highest  bidders,  according  to  "  rise  and  fall "  by  auctioneers, 
who  regularly  attend  for  this  purpose. 

Met  a  number  of  this  gentry  hurrying  to  their  duties  on 
my  return,  having  been  too  early  to  witness  the  auction. 
Hucksters  receive  their  supplies  in  this  manner,  which  they 
retail  to  the  citizens — an  extra  tax,  I  should  suppose,  upon 
the  honest  burghers,  from  whose  pockets  must  eventually  be 
drawn  the  amount  paid  as  commission  to  the  auctioneers. 


208  Kathat: 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

Settlement  of  Cape  Town— Its  productions— The  Kaffir  War— Latest  dispatches — 
Cause  oi  the  Rebellion— Description  of  the  Kaffir  by  the  Traveller— Opinion  of 
him  by  the  Resident— Authority  of  prominent  men— Observatory,  &c. 

TTT1THIN  larger  limits  I  would  willingly  indulge  in  a  more 
™  "  extended  description  of  Southern  Africa,  which  is  set 
down  by  geographers  as  the  "  Cape  Region ;"  but  as  each 
day  now  diminishes  our  cruise,  so  does  each  chapter  deprive 
me  of  space  for  digression,  and  I  must  confine  myself  to  the 
Cape  Colony,  or  more  properly  speaking,  to  Cape  Town  and 
its  environs. 

The  town  is  in  latitude  33°  55'  30"  south,  and  as  the  Ob- 
servatory has  been  decided  to  be  in  longitude  18°  29;,  and 
is  distant  three  miles  and  a  quarter  from  the  town,  due  east, 
it  would  be  placed  18°  25x  45/y  east  longitude. 

The  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  which  is  not  the  extremity 
of  Southern  Africa,  as  some  geographers  have  it — "La- 
gullas  "  protruding  further  into  the  Indian  Ocean — was  dis- 
covered by  Bartholomew  Diaz  in  1486,  who  gave  it  the 
name  of  the  "  Tormenting  Cape,"  as  previously  stated,  which 
was  afterwards  changed  into  its  present  title  by  the  far-seeing 
Emanuel,  and  the  hopes  he  then  entertained  of  his  navigators 
reaching  the  rich  shores  of  the  far  "  Inde,"  were  made  good 
by  Vasco  de  Gama,  eleven  years  after  its  discovery.     The 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        209 

Dutch  made  their  settlement  here  in  1652,  of  which  they 
were  deprived  by  the  English  in  1795,  who  afterwards  re- 
stored it  to  them  by  treaty  at  Amiens,  in  1802.  Eventually 
it  was  ceded  to  Great  Britain  in  1815.  The  colony  is  quite 
extensive,  and  would  be  very  productive  but  for  numerous 
local  causes  which  impede  its  growth.  One  of  these  has 
been  named  in  the  system  of  labor ;  but  the  most  important 
impediment  is  want  of  unanimity  amongst  the  settlers  them- 
selves. The  Dutchman  clinging  to  his  ancient  customs  and 
habits,  which  are  an  abomination  in  the  eyes  of  the  English- 
man ;  and  the  natives  having  been  once  subjected  to  the 
tender  mercies  of  the  white  man,  not  understanding  the 
use  of  freedom,  or  the  benefits  of  self-government,  live  liter- 
ally from  "  hand  to  mouth,"  in  constant  dread  of  recapture, 
and  being  forced,  under  the  eyes  of  intelligent  masters,  to 
properly  support  themselves. 

But  even  with  these  drawbacks  the  colony  may  be  said 
to  be  flourishing,  and  when  the  Kaffir  war  is  ended,  and  the 
Kat  River  rebellion  put  down,  numerous  fertile  valleys  will 
be  open  to  the  squatter,  and  contribute  from  their  luxuriant 
bosoms  bountiful  supplies  of  wealth  to  the  colony. 

The  principal  productions  of  the  Cape  are  grain  of  all 
kinds,  and  the  grapes  from  which  the  Constantia  wines  are 
made.  The  specimen  of  wheat  which  I  saw,  was  certainly 
superior  to  any  I  had  ever  seen  in  the  United  States,  and  an 
intelligent  merchant  there  informed  me  that  it  is  considered 
the  best  in  the  world.  From  the  number  of  pounds  he  said 
it  would  weigh  to  a  bushel,  and  its  clean  large  grain,  should 
think  it  the  most  profitable  to  the  grower. 
10* 


210  Kathay: 

When  we  were  at  the  Cape,  the  Kaffir  war  was  dragging 
its  slow  length  along.  The  troops  had  been  pushed  into  Kaff- 
raria,  and  the  latest  news  from  the  scene  of  operations  ap- 
peared in  the  Government  Gazette,  published  by  authority  on 
the  22d  April,  1852.  Dispatches  had  been  received  from 
camp  up  to  the  4th  of  that  month.  Major-General  the  Hon. 
George  Cathcart,  with  the  local  rank  of  Lieutenant-General, 
having  superseded  Sir  Harry  G.  W.  Smith,  was  in  command. 
The  campaign  was  on  the  Kei,  and  Lieutenant-Colonel  Eyre, 
*73d  regiment,  following  a  spoor  of  cattle,  had  captured  1,220 
head  of  Gaika  cattle,  mostly  cows,  and  fifteen  horses. 

He  had  several  skirmishes  with  the  enemy,  who  came 
forth  in  considerable  numbers  to  protect  their  herds.  Major 
Armstrong's  passage  of  the  Kei,  and  charge,  is  spoken 
of  in  warm  terms  of  commendation.  In  this  affair  the 
Kaffirs  numbered  about  500,  of  whom  100  were  mounted. 
The  gallant  Major's  command,  including  himself,  was  100  ; 
with  these  he  crossed  the  river  under  a  heavy  fire,  and  dis- 
persed five  times  his  number. 

A  general  order  had  been  published  at  head-quarters, 
King  William's  Town,  dated  6th  April,  1852,  in  which  the 
Commander-in-Chief  congratulates  the  army  on  the  pros- 
pect of  a  speedy  termination  of  the  war,  and  states  that  the 
troops  then  occupied  every  stronghold  in  the  Amatolas,  and 
it  was  impossible  the  enemy  could  retain  a  footing,  so  closely 
was  he  pursued  in  every  direction.  Notwithstanding  this 
cheering  announcement,  I  fear  this  Kaffir  war  will  resemble 
in  its  pursuance  and  general  features  our  Florida  campaigns, 
although  the  officers  engaged  in  it  will  receive  more  credit 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        211 

than  our  own  ;  and  if  their  duties  are  arduous  in  chasing  the 
Hottentots  over  mountains,  and  through  rugged  defiles,  yet 
they  have  the  advantage  of  a  healthy  field  of  operations,  and 
can  bivouac  on  the  mountain  ridge,  or  amongst  the  green 
valleys,  whilst  our  troops  had  to  seek  their  damp  beds  amidst 
the  miasmatic  everglades,  or  more  pestiferous  marsh.  Again, 
the  Kaffirs  do  occasionally  make  a  stand,  and  some  veiy 
severe  actions  have  taken  place  between  them  and  the 
British  troops. 

This  war  was  caused  by  a  rebellion  of  a  portion  of  the 
Hottentots  of  the  Kat  River  settlement,  at  Fort  Beaufort,  and 
the  Theopolis  Missionary  establishment,  in  Albany.  It  is 
supposed  to  have  originated  because  of  the  application  of 
stringent  vagrant  laws,  and  from  apprehensions  of  being 
again  forced  into  slavery.  It  is  carried  on  on  the  eastern 
frontier  of  the  country.  The  above  are  the  surmised  causes, 
but  there  are  thought  to  have  been  other  motives.  A  repre- 
sentative from  one  of  the  eastern  districts,  stated  in  his  place 
in  the  Legislative  Council,  that  he  considered  the  rebellion  to 
be  a  national  movement,  that  all  the  documents  found  in  the 
rebel  camps  were  exhortations  to  stand  up  in  the  defence  of 
their  nation.  "  General  Orders "  had  been  found  which 
had  been  scattered  over  a  country  500  miles  in  extent,  and 
these  call  upon  the  colored  men  to  unite  and  drive  the  white 
men  into  the  sea,  "  of  which  they  are  the  scum." 

Sir  Andrew  Stockenstrom,  from  the  Kat  River  settle- 
ment, called  the  rebellion  "  a  Riddle,"  and  the  Hon.  John 
Montague,  Secretary  to  Government,  ascribes  the  hostile  feel- 
ings of  the  Hottentots,  to  an  idea  that  they  are  to  be  made 


212  Kathay: 

slaves.  One  gentleman  asks  in  relation  to  the  subject: 
"  What  do  we  know  of  the  rebellion  ?  Why  it  was  only  the 
other  day  that  an  officer  of  the  Government  was  brought  to 
Cape  Town,  a  prisoner  for  rebellion  !" 

A  commission,  appointed  by  her  Majesty  the  Queen,  con- 
sisting of  Major  Hogge  and  Mr.  Owen,  had  not  then  com- 
menced their  investigations. 

There  were  some  Kaffirs  in  Cape  Town,  sent  in  as  wit- 
nesses, but  did  not  see  them.  The  following  is  Barrow's 
description  of  this  people :  "  They  are  tall,  robust,  and  mus- 
cular, and  distinguished  by  a  peculiar  firmness  of  carriage. 
Some  of  them  were  six  feet  ten  inches,  and  so  elegantly  pro- 
portioned that  they  would  not  have  disgraced  the  pedestal 
of  the  Farnese  Hercules."  Further  on,  he  states :  "  The 
natives  of  KafFraria,  if  taken  collectively,  are  perhaps  superior, 
in  point  of  figure,  to  the  inhabitants  of  any  other  country  on 
earth ;  they  are  indeed  exempt  from  many  of  those  causes 
which,  in  civilized  society,  tend  to  debilitate  and  impede  the 
growth  of  the  human  body.  Their  diet  is  perfectly  sim- 
ple, their  exercise  conducive  to  health,  and  the  air  they 
breathe  salubrious.  Strangers  to  the  licentious  appetites 
which  frequently  proceed  from  a  depraved  imagination,  they 
cheerfully  receive  the  bounteous  gifts  of  nature,  and  when 
night  sways  her  ebon  sceptre  o'er  the  scene, 

1  Sweetly  composed  the  weary  shepherd  lies, 

Though  through  the  woods  terrific  winds  resound, 
Though  rattling  thunder  shakes  the  vaulted  skies, 
Or  vivid  lightning  runs  along  the  ground.'  " 

After  that  read  the  opinions  held  of  them  in  Cape  Town. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.       213 

I  make  the  extracts  from  the  published  debates  of  the 
Legislative  Council  of  the  colony,  in  assembly  there.  The 
Secretary  to  Government  says  :  "  We  have  before  us  the 
most  remarkable  fact,  that  hundreds  of  these  people  on  the 
frontier,  who  had  lived  with  the  farmers,  many  of  them  ten 
or  twelve,  and  even  a  greater  number  of  years,  suddenly, 
and  without  the  smallest  provocation,' 'turned  round  and 
murdered  them,  or  turned  them  out  of  their  houses  with 
hardly  a  rag  upon  them,  destroyed  their  property,  and 
walked  over  to  the  enemy."  Hardly  a  man  who  speaks  of 
them,  that  does  not  complain  of  their  pilfering  propensities; 
the  farmers  grievously  as  regards  their  sheep. 

There  were  at  one  time  some  800  rebels  at  Fort  Hare ;  a 
great  number  were  allowed  to  depart.  Some  3  or  400  were 
thrown  into  a  regiment  and  armed  ;  50  only  of  the  800  were 
convicted.  This  black  regiment  became  so  dangerous,  after 
all  the  confidence  bestowed  upon  them,  that  their  officers 
would  not  go  out  with  them,  fearing  more  to  be  shot  by  their 
own  men  than  the  enemy.  Shortly  after  they  were  found 
sending  ammunition  in  large  quantities  to  the  rebels,  and 
had  to  be  disbanded.  One  of  the  members  of  the  Council 
contended  that  the  Kaffir  and  the  Hottentot  (they  appeared, 
indeed,  to  make  little  distinction  between  them)  are  not  to 
be  purchased  with  favors,  or  conciliated  by  constitutional 
privileges;  in  his  own  forcible  language,  "I  feel  that  no 
man  of  experience  with  regard  to  the  Kaffir  and  Hottentot, 
will  come  to  such  a  conclusion.  Like  the  wild  fox,  they  may, 
indeed,  accept  your  favors  and  concessions,  but  it  Js  only 
to  await  a  more  favorable  opportunity  of  seizing  their  prey." 


214  K  at  hay: 

Mr.  Godlonton,  from  those  provinces,  asserted  that  idle- 
ness had  been  the  bane  and  ruin  of  the  colored  classes  of  the 
colony,  and  in  the  eastern  provinces  has  led  to  rebellion, 
anarchy,  robbery,  and  murder." 

To  prove  that  I  have  not  made  my  assertions  in  a  pre- 
vious page,  in  regard  to  the  condition  of  the  colored  popula- 
tion, and  the  little  benefit  conferred  upon  them  by  emanci- 
pation, hastily  and  without  authority,  I  quote  the  opinions 
of  many  of  the  best  informed  men  of  the  colony,  which  have 
the  greater  weight  as  coming  from  persons  whose  positions 
placed  them  above  the  power  of  petty  prejudices. 

A  Mr.  Stegman  gives  in  evidence  that  a  portion  of  the 
Hottentots  who  went  from  Cape  Town,  were  in  communica- 
tion with  the  rebels  in  the  field,  and  at  one  time  hesitated 
whether  they  should  use  their  arms  against  them,  or  her 
Majesty's  troops. 

Mr.  Cock  stated,  in  debate,  that  within  his  own  know- 
ledge, there  was  a  general  fear  of  the  colored  races  in  the 
eastern  districts  of  the  Cape  Colony,  and  he  fears  that  the 
seeds  of  disaffection,  if  not  rebellion,  are  deeply  sown  within 
their  breasts,  and  that,  if  they  saw  any  probability  that  her 
Majesty's  troops  would  be  subdued,  they  would  at  once  go 
over  to  the  rebels ;  and  after  asking  what  has  brought  this 
state  of  things  about — what  led  to  the  war  on  the  fron- 
tier— the  desolation  of  some  of  the  finest  districts — desecra- 
tion of  their  homesteads,  and  the  spilling  of  the  best  blood 
of  the  colonists — attributes  it  to  the  want  of  a  firm  and 
efficient  government. 

In  relation  to  the  Hottentots  enrolled  in  the  Western 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        215 

provinces,  it  is  stated  that  when  they  went  into  the  field  un- 
der Colonel  Mackinnon,  and  were  attacked  near  the  Amatola, 
they  were  saved  from  destruction  by  the  interposition  of 
the  seventy-third  regiment. 

A  gentleman,  who  is  called  a  "  native  foreigner,"  thus 
expresses  himself:  "I  know  the  Hottentot  character  well,  as 
well  as  any  man  in  the  colony.  I  am  a  colonist  born,  and  I 
believe  from  my  soul,  that  it  will  be  the  most  dangerous  ex- 
periment ever  made  to  allow  these  men  to  vote  under  a  fran- 
chise amounting  to  universal  suffrage." 

The  Secretary  of  Government  stated  :  "  We  had  nearly 
a  rebellion  here  (at  Cape  Town),  amongst  the  same  class  of 
colored  people  as  those  at  the  East,  and  although  the  panic 
had  partially  subsided,  the  hostile  disposition  of  that  class 
against  the  whites  had  assuredly  not."  So  much  for  the 
fidelity  of,  and  the  confidence  reposed  in,  the  colored  classes 
of  the  Cape  Colony. 

The  population  of  the  Cape  is  heterogeneous ;  composed 
of  Dutch,  English,  French,  Germans,  Malays,  Hottentots, 
emancipated  Slaves,  Betjouanas,  Fingoes,  and  others  coming 
under  the  name  of  native  foreigners ;  which,  I  take  it,  means 
the  same  as  the  West  India  word  "  creole" — one  born  of  Eu- 
ropean parents  in  a  colony.  The  Dutch,  as  being  the  earli- 
est settlers,  are  most  numerous,  of  those  laying  claims  to 
white  blood ;  but  all  the  power  is  in  the  hands  of  the  Eng- 
lish, of  course,  who  are  too  quick-witted  for  the  phlegmatic 
"  Boer,"  the  term  they  apply  to  the  Hollander.  After  the 
French  and  Germans,  a  small  proportion,  and  the  few  Malays 
now  left,  comes  the  Hottentot — the  Aborigine.     With  them 


216  Kathay: 

are  enumerated  the  other  colored  races,  as  having  the  mark 
of  degradation  stamped  by  the  Almighty  upon  the  first-born 
of  mankind.  The  "  emancipated  slaves,"  having,  with  a  few- 
exceptions,  originally  sprung  from  that  race,  have  been  but 
little  raised  in  the  scale  of  humanity,  during  their  term  of 
servitude  to  the  Dutch. 

Wished  much  to  have  visited  the  celebrated  Observatory, 
but  understood  its  interior  had  been  destroyed  by  fire,  a  few- 
weeks  before.  There  are  many  constellations  seen  at  the  Cape 
not  visible  elsewhere. 

Was  disappointed  also  in  examining  the  Library ;  I 
wanted  to  overhaul  the  celebrated  Cape  Records,  said  to  be 
interesting. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.       217 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

A  Death  on  board — Our  Freight — Extracts  from  Diary — St.  Helena  and  Napoleon 
—The  Trades— Poetical  idea  of  a  starry  Telegraph— Good  Sailing. 

ONE  of  the  invalids,  whom  we  were  bringing  home  from 
the  squadron,  died  and  was  buried  at  Cape  Town.  Poor 
fellow,  he  was  never  destined  to  see  his  native  land  again. 
His  disease,  consumption,  with  the  usual  tendency  of  that 
complaint,  made  rapid  advances  as  we  drew  near  land.  He 
had  resigned  himself  to  die,  and  his  repeated  wish  was  that 
we  might  reach  the  Cape  before  he  should  breathe  his  last ; 
that  he  might  feel  assured  of  resting  in  consecrated  ground. 
He  was  of  the  Catholic  faith,  and  Bad  his  wish,  for  a  priest 
of  his  religion  attended  his  remains  to  their  last  resting- 
place,  where  the  seagull  swoops,  on  the  shores  of  the  "  stormy 
Cape." 

On  leaving  the  Cape,  our  ship  presented  the  appearance 
of  a  vessel  engaged  by  naturalists  to  bring  home  specimens ; 
and  the  botanical  department  was  represented  by  boxes  con- 
taining specimens  of  sugar-cane  placed  in  the  quarter,  stern 
boats,  and  on  the  poop.  Monkeys,  belonging  to  the  men, 
made  a  menagerie  on  the  booms.  Others  of  the  genus  simia 
were  stationed  in  the  tops ;  an  aviary  composed  of  cocka- 
toos, Cape  parrots,  Java  sparrows,  minas,  &c,  was  dispersed 


218  K  at  ii  ay: 

through  different  messes ;  whilst  indigenous  animals,  such 
as  rats,  mice,  cockroaches  and  ants,  had  their  appropriate 
haunts. 

Fifth  of  May. — "  Rolling  down  to  St.  Helena,"  as  the 
sailors'  song  has  it.  Have  passed  the  latitude  of  Angra  Pe- 
quena,  on  the  African  coast,  where  Martin  Diaz  the  Portu- 
guese navigator  erected  a  cross,  and  gave  it  the  additional 
title  of  Santa  Cruz.  This  emblem  is  said  to  have  been 
lately  overthrown  by  an  English  merchant  captain.  I  can 
imagine  the  Goth,  bloated  with  beer,  and  vomiting  forth 
strange  oaths ! 

May  the  10  th. — Still  heading  for  St.  Helena,  which  cal- 
culate on  making  within  three  days.  Have  caught  the 
"  trades,"  but  indeed  have  had  winds  answering  their  pur- 
pose ever  since  we  left  the  Cape,  having  had  them  gener- 
ally aft. 

On  the  13th  of  May  at  10  h.  30  m.  made  the  loom  of 
the  Island  of  St.  Helena,  bearing  N.  N.  E.  per  compass, 
passed  it  about  thirty  miles  to  windward,  just  twelve  days 
and  a  half  from  the  Cape,  within  the  average  passage. 

Helena,  lone  hermit  of  the  ocean,  saddened  by  the  me- 
mory of  Napoleon,  its  involuntary  hermit.  But  the  dead 
lion  no  longer  reposes  there  ;  his  remains  have  been  transferred 
to  one  of  his  own  splendid  monuments  in  unfaithful  but 
now  penitent  Paris ;  and  the  spirit  of  prophecy  must  have 
prompted  the  pen  of  Byron  to  write,  long  before  the  event 
took  place — 

"France  shall  yet  demand  hia  bones  !" 


A    Cruise    in   the    China    Seas.       219 

May  l9ifA. — In  latitude  8°  50'  south,  19°  33/  west  lon- 
gitude, approaching  the  line ;  have  had  fine  trades ;  now 
getting  light ;  weather  warm,  and  fine ;  for  the  last  few  days 
summer  clothing  in  demand. 

Sunday,  23d  of  May. — Trade  wind  still  holds  on  ;  three 
sail  in  sight ;  one  passed  across  our  bows  bound  to  the  south- 
ward and  westward,  and  showed  Dutch  colors. 

Thursday,  27 ih  May,  1852. — Crossed  the  line  last  night 
in  about  longitude  34°  west;  are  now  in  the  northern  At- 
lantic, and  fairly  in  our  own  hemisphere  ;  have  hit  the  same 
day  of  the  month  to  cross  it,  in  returning ;  going  out  the 
26th  of  February,  1850,  and  coming  back  the  26th  of  May, 
1852.  What  has  passed  in  the  interval !  Is  it  not  faithfully 
recorded  on  these  pages  ? 

Are  now  looking  out  for  the  1ST.  E.  trades,  and  have 
symptoms  of  soon  getting  them.  With  luck  shall  make  our 
port  within  a  month  from  present  date. 

Tuesday,  June  1st. — Within  this  month  expected  to  be 
detached ;  for  the  last  few  days  have  encountered  calms  and 
squalls,  line  weather,  and  have  not  made  much  progress ; 
got  no  observation  yesterday ;  last  night  at  half  past  eleven 
the  master  took  a  lunar,  which  put  us  in  3Q  177  north  lati- 
tude. Whilst  writing  have  struck  a  fine  breeze,  which  we 
hope  will  soon  carry  us  out  of  the  doldrums. 

Third  of  June. — Latitude  7°  V  north  ;  have  caught  the 
trades  at  last ;  after  coquetting  for  several  days,  these  winds, 
so  constant  when  caught,  have  consented  to  fill  our  sails,  and 
we  are  now  careering  along,  knocking  off  hourly  nine  knots 
of  the  distance  which  divides  us  from  our  homes.     It  is 


220  Kathay: 

pleasant  sailing,  too,  in  these  trades,  and  when  you  once 
strike  them,  you  feel  secure  of  their  continuance  up  to  a  cer- 
tain parallel.  All  you  have  to  do  is  to  set  your  sails,  studding- 
sails,  royals,  moonsails  and  sky-scrapers,  if  you  carry  them  ; 
keep  them  full,  and  let  your  vessel  go  dancing  along,  day  af- 
ter day,  without  handling  a  brace.  Seamanship  may  take  a 
spell  below,  for  your  ship  will  almost  sail  herself/ 

Saw  the  northern  or  polar  star  last  night  for  the  first 
time,  a  few  degrees  above  the  horizon,  peeping  at  us  with  its 
twinkling  eye,  as  much  as  to  say,  welcome  home  !  Hailed 
it  as  a  link  connecting  us  with  our  native  land.  How  many 
eyes  of  persons  dear  to  us,  look  upon  that  star,  when  they 
think  of  us.     Its  appearance  suggests  the  following  idea : 

If  to  yon  glittering,  gleaming  star, 

Our  thoughts  might  wing  their  rapid  flight, 
To  meet  in  that  bright  orb,  afar ; 

Thoughts  that  are  sent  towards  us  to-night : 
How  happy  thitherward  to  speed, 

Soul  meeting  soul,  above  the  wave  ; 
From  earth,  and  earth's  dark  passions  freed, 

And — oh !  what  postage  it  would  save  ! 

Saturday,  June  5th,  1852. — Latitude  20°  43/  N.,  lon- 
gitude 4*7°  40'  W.  Yesterday  knocked  off  two  hundred 
and  forty  miles,  averaging  ten  miles  per  hour ;  best  run  yet ; 
only  about  2200  miles  distant  to-day;  made  two  hundred 
and  twenty-four  miles  the  last  twenty-four  hours. 

Sixth  of  June. — Twelve  o'clock  just  reported,  and  lati- 
tude 15°  14;,  and  have  run  two  hundred  and  twenty-two 
miles  since  meridian  yesterday;  making  six  hundred  and 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        221 

eighty-six  miles  in  three  days,  an  average  of  two  hundred 
and  twenty-eight  and  two  third  miles  per  diem.  Have  pass- 
ed the  Windward  Islands ;  are  getting  anxious  now,  and 
even  if*  we  do  make  good  runs,  yet  this  practice  of  killing 
time  by  half  hours  (the  bell  is  struck  every  half  hour),  is  be- 
coming tediolfe,  as  we  draw  near  home. 


222  Kathay: 


CHAPTER  XXX.      # 

Classic  Ground— Hispaniola— Romance  of  the  Western  Waters— Extracts  from 
Diary — On  a  Wind— Newsboats  wanted — The  Bermudas— Target  practice. 

"VTTE  are  now  upon  what  might  be  called  with  poetical 
■  "  license,  "  classic  ground."  Over  these  seas  the  small 
caravels  of  Columbus  sought  the  land,  which  had  appeared 
to  him  in  dreams,  which  we  can  now  hardly  look  upon  as 
less  than  inspired.  To-day,  the  eighth  of  June,  we  are  in  the 
latitude  of  the  south  side  of  Cuba,  along  the  shores  of  which 
he  coasted,  mistaking  them  for  Cipango,  beyond  which  he 
was  to  reach  the  magnificent  country  of  Kathay,  as  described 
in  the  glowing  pages  of  Marco  Polo,  and  Mandeville. 

"We  have  passed  the  parallel  of  the  Isle  of  St.  Domingo, 
his  beloved  and  heart-breaking  Hispaniola.  How  blackened 
now  its  history,  and  how  inapposite  its  name  !  Obliquely  we 
run  past  the  Lucayan  Isles,  looking  out  almost  as  anxiously 
as  he  did  for  the  "  promised  land."  But  how  opposite  our 
situations !  We,  with  all  the  certain  aids  of  science  and  ex- 
perience, steer  for  a  well-known  country ;  whilst  he,  thinking 
to  make  the  far  distant  land  from  which  we  now  return,  his 
own  mind  his  chart,  his  inspiration  his  guide,  pointed  his 
prow  to  uncertain  ports  in  unknown  seas. 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.       223 

Talk  of  the  Mediterranean,  its  Islands  and  its  romance, 
why  there  is  more  of  the  wonderful  and  romantic  connected 
with  the  first  voyages  to  the  western  Archipelago,  and  the 
continent  of  America,  than  is  comprised  in  the  history  of  the 
travel-stained  Levant. 

Would  you  have  the  story  af  the  Argonauts,  enlarged 
and  improved,  follow  the  track  of  any  of  those  Portuguese, 
Spanish,  or  even  English  adventurers  in  search  of  gold,  to 
these  lands,  and  amongst  these  keys,  and  see  how  the  expe- 
dition for  the  "golden  fleece"  dwindles  into  insignificance. 
But  what  does  my  poor  pen  with  what  our  own  wizard  of 
the  west,  Washington  Irving,  has  made  immortal  ?  Turn  to 
the  pages  of  his  Columbus,  but  not  before  you  have  laid 
aside  these. 

Tuesday,  June  8th. — Each  day  decreases  our  distance, 
and  we  were,  at  meridian,  but  1600  miles  from  our  port. 
The  20th  is  put  down  as  the  time  of  our  arrival  now. 
Have  been  busy  in  preparing  things  for  debarkation.  A 
barque  came  near  running  into  us  the  night  before  last.  To- 
day saw  two  sail,  a  bark  and  brig.  Sea-weed  is  floating  by ; 
like  ourselves,  returning  to  the  Gulf  from  strange  seas. 

Thursday,  June  10th.— Lat.  24°  21'  north.  Made  218 
miles  the  last  twenty-four  hours  :  about  180  the  day  previ- 
ous, which  leaves  only  1200  miles  to  run,  and  going  nine 
knots.     Trade  still  strong. 

Friday,  June  1 1  th. — Passed  an  English  barque  bound 
to  the  eastward.  She  showed  her  longitude  on  a  black 
board.  Did  not  hail.  Showed  our  longitude,  still  keeping 
on.     She  was  a  degree  out  of  her  reckoning. 


224  Kathay: 

At  meridian'had  made  225  miles,  and  were  in  lat.  26° 
47' ;  long.  63°  15'  west.  Ten  days  more  ought  to  bring 
us  in  easily. 

Sunday,  June  13  th. — Lost  the  trades  yesterday,  in  lat. 
28°  44/,  long.  65°  42; ;  and  from  nine  and  ten  knots,  have 
come  down  to  three  and  four.  Made  only  176  miles  yester- 
day. To-day  nearly  calm ;  made  but  80  miles  since  me- 
ridian yesterday.  Most  beautiful  weather ;  could  not  be 
more  pleasant,  only  have  no  wind.  Are  now  in  the  "  horse 
latitudes,"  but  cannot  complain ;  the  trade  has  pushed  us 
along  bravely,  and  served  us  well.  Only  720  miles  from 
our  port  at  meridian. 

June  \4ih. — On  coming  on  deck  this  morning,  found 
the  wind  had  come  out  nearly  dead  ahead,  and  the  ship 
barely  heading  her  course  under  a  topsail  breeze,  with  her 
yards  braced  sharp. 

It  is  a  pretty  sight,  or  rather  Would  be  a  pleasant  thing, 
as  the  Epicurean  Lucretius  expresses  it,  "  to  stand  upon  the 
shore,  and  to  see  ships  tossed  at  sea."  At  least  I  imagined 
so  this  morning,  with  our  craft  "  upon  a  wind,"  whilst  stand- 
ing in  the  weather  gangway,  and  watching  her  plunge  and 
curvet,  held  up  to  her  course  by  the  helm,  as  a  steed  by  a 
curb,  obeying  its  rider ;  but  I  did  not  think  the  motion  as 
agreeable  as  that  derived  from  equestrian  exercise.  Motion 
quite  disagreeable ;  and  I  made  strange  work  at  dotting  i's  and 
crossing  t's.  Hyphens  also  will  connect  words  more  closely 
than  intended,— confounding  too  all  compound  terms.  Showed 
our  colors  to  a  brig  standing  to  the  southward  and  eastward. 
Impossible  to  speak  a  vessel  just  now  ;  but  if  we  could  only 


A    Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.        225 

•have  gotten  near  one  yesterday,  might  have  communicated 
by  boat,  obtained  newspapers,  and  learned  the  nominations, 
and  general  state  of  the  country.  By  this  time,  two  poor 
men,  pitted  against  each  other  for  the  Presidency,  have 
doubtless  been  made  out  more  miserable  characters  than 
their  most  intimate  acquaintance  ever  supposed  them  to  be. 
And  if  either  were  elected,  with  the  charges  brought  against 
him  fully  proved,  it  would  be  a  disgrace  to  the  Republic ! 

Twelve  o'clock,  and  latitude  just  reported  30°  247 — the 
parallel  of  New-Orleans ;  longitude  68°  017.  Are  getting 
past  the  Bermudas, — as  usual,  the  "  still  vexed  Bermoothes," 
though  what  continues  to  keep  Bermoothes  out  of  temper  I 
cannot  imagine. 

Tuesday,  June  15th. — Longitude,  by  chronometer,  Y00 
4'7/  west ;  latitude  observed,  32°  12'  north :  are  barely 
making  a  northwest  course,  with  a  westerly  variation.  Have 
the  wind  steady  at  northeast  by  east.  This  makes  it  quite 
cold,  and  flannels  and  thick  coats  are  comfortable. 

June  16th. — In  turning  out  this  morning  at  four  bells, 
found  it  quite  calm  ;  and  on  looking  at  the  log  slate,  found 
that  the  wind  had  gone  down  within  the  past  hour.  Took 
advantage  of  the  calm  to  practice  at  a  target.  Fired  both  bat- 
teries,— very  good  shooting ;  but  the  target  escaped  until 
the  last  shot,  which  knocked  off  the  bull's  eye,  and  dismount- 
ed the  gun. 

Whilst  exercising,  a  clipper  ship  passed  at  some  distance 
from  us,  bound  to  southward  and  eastward. 


11 


220  Kathat: 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 


The  Gulf  Stream— Darby's  Theory— Its  ingenuity— The  Coasts  of  America— John 
Cabot,  the  Venetian—"  Terra  Primum  Visa" — Completion  of  Cruise— Con- 
clusion. 


fTHHURSDAY,  June  \*lth. — Have  at  last  got  amongst  the  va- 
-*-  riable  winds,  for  we  struck  a  breeze  yesterday  immediately 
after  exercising,  and  went  pitching  along  at  the  rate  of  eight 
knots  before  dark.  Sea  quite  rough.  This  morning  calm  again. 
Have  touched  the  edge  of  the  Gulf  Stream,  judging  from  the 
temperature  of  the  water,  and  general  appearance  of  the  weath- 
er. Darby's  theory  of  this  current  is  so  learned  and  philosophi- 
cal, that  I  may  be  excused  giving  place  to  it  here.  In  his  theme, 
The  Earth,  he  touches  upon  this  phenomena,  and  explains  it 
thus :  "  The  earth  turns  round  upon  its  axis  once  in  twenty- 
four  hours,  and  consequently  fifteen  degrees  of  its  meridians 
revolve  hourly ;  therefore,  by  multiplying  the  breadth  of  any 
number  of  degrees  of  longitude  by  fifteen,  we  have  the  hourly 
motion  of  that  part  of  the  earth's  surface  round  the  axis ;  as, 
for  example,  in  lat.  45°,  a  degree  of  long,  is  48|  English  miles 
wide,  within  a  trifling  fraction.  From  these  elements,  it  re- 
sults that  particles  of  matter  on  lat.  45°  on  the  surface  of  the 
earth,  revolve  about  630  miles  hourly:  this  is  nearly  the 
mean  motion,  as  the  maximum  at  the  equator  is  a  fraction 


A   Cruisk    in    the    China    Seas.       227 

less  than  1,040  miles  hourly,  and  decreasing  along  the  me 
ridians,  until  it  becomes  0  at  either  pole." 

From  this  hypothesis  he  reasons  that  atmospheric  and 
oceanic  masses  are  moved  along  with  the  decumbent  nucleus 
with  a  velocity  decreasing  from  the  equator  to  the  poles ; 
and  if  the  least  retardation  operates  on  the  atmospheric  and 
oceanic  waters,  a  counter-current  will  be  formed,  flowing 
with  the  greatest  rapidity  where  the  retardation  is  greatest. 
This,  he  says,  occurs  along  the  equator,  where  the  horary 
motion  is  at  its  maximum ;  and  thus  the  tropic  current  is 
formed.  This  current  receives  volume  and  velocity  from 
another  cause,  which  is  thus  explained :  "  Immediately  un- 
der the  sun,  or  where1  the  beams  of  that  luminary  are  direct, 
a  vacuum  is  produced,  into  which  the  circumambient  air 
rushes ;  and  as  this  vacuity  is  carried  westward  along  the 
equator,  upwards  of  1,035  miles  hourly,  an  atmospheric  cur- 
rent follows,  which,  acting  on  the  ocean  waters,  impels  them 
westward,  and  adds  force  and  mass  to  the  tropic  current.  In 
the  Atlantic  Ocean,  from  the  peculiar  structure  of  its  shores, 
a  very  remarkable  phenomenon — the  Gulf  Stream — is  pro- 
duced. South  America,  in  form  an  immense  triangle,  is 
based  on  the  Pacific,  and  protrudes  its  perpendicular  angle 
into  the  Atlantic  at  south  latitude  6°.  This  salient  point  is 
Cape  St.  Roque,  from  which  the  continent  extends  to  the 
northwest,  crosses  the  equator,  and  stretches  beyond  the 
northern  tropic,  forming  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  an  immense 
reservoir.  Here  the  continent  again  turns  at  right  angles, 
and  continues  northeast  into  the  northern  polar  circle.  Tho 
very  deep  indenting  of  the  American  Continent  in  the  Gulf 


228  Kathay: 

of  Mexico,  and  the  long  line  of  coast  from  its  recesses  into 
the  southern  section  of  the  torrid  zone,  is  in  a  peculiar  man- 
ner calculated  to  produce  that  very  reflux,  which  constitutes 
the  largest  whirlpool  on  the  globe." 

Much  more  does  this  ingenious  writer  advance,  but  my 
limits  prevent  its  insertion  here,  and  the  subject  is  not  exact- 
ly in  accordance  with  the  tenor  of  my  task.  Suffice  it  for 
the  present,  that  upon  this  day,  the  18th  of  June,  we  have 
passed  over  this  equatorial  current,  and  are  now  heading  for 
our  native  shores,  and  are  in  the  waters  made  classic  by  the 
glorious  endeavors  of  the  early  navigators.  Strange  is  it 
that  of  all  those  who  sought  this  coast,  the  name  of  John 
Cabot,  the  first  adventurer  who  landed  upon  it,  should  be  so 
seldom  mentioned :  and  History,  called  by  a  philosopher  a 
Splendid  Lie,  should  prove  its  title  to  mendacity,  by  giving 
all  the  glory  of  the  land,  " primum  visa"  to  his  son,  Sebas- 
tian. To  John  Cabot,  a  Venetian,  then  a  merchant  of  Bris- 
tol, England,  in  the  reign  of  the  Seventh  Henry,  is  all  the 
honor  to  be  ascribed  of  setting  the  first  European  foot  upon 
the  then  desert  wilds  that  now  bloom,  the  Garden  of  the 
United  States ;  and  if  a  name  must  be  derived  from  the  dis- 
coverer, without  reference  to  its  euphony,  to  descend  as  a 
patronymic,  by  such  a  rule,  we  should  be  called  Cabotians, 
instead  of  Yankees,  United  Staters,  or  by  the  Vespucian 
title  of  Americans. 

But  to  Columbus  attaches  all  the  fame  of  the  original 
idea  of  navigating  the  Western  Seas,  and  if  he  did  not  set 
foot  upon  the  shores  towards  which  we  are  now  sailing,  his 
voyage  incited  others  to  undertake  what  perhaps  would  never 


A   Cruise    in    the    China    Seas.       229 

otherwise  have  been  dreamed  of,  and  the  tropics  would  long 
after  have  remained  painted  in  their  imaginations  as  a  circle  of 
fire  in  which  the  Salamander  sported.  About  a  year  after 
the  Genoese  had  returned  from  his  first  voyage — I  quote 
from  an  Italian,  Tiraboschi — the  merchant  of  Bristol  appears 
to  have  embraced  the  idea  that  new  lands  might  be  dis- 
covered in  the  North  West,  and  a  passage  to  India  might 
be  brought  to  light  by  this  course.  And,  in  answer  to  his 
application,  on  the  5th  of  March,  1495,  King  Henry  the 
Seventh  granted  a  commission  to  John  Cabot  and  his  three 
sons,  Louis,  Sebastian,  and  Sanchez.  And  on  the  24th  of 
June,  1497,  he  discovered  that  part  of  this  Continent,  which 
he  called  "  Terra  primum  Visa"  nearly  a  year  previous  to 
the  discovery  of  the  country  south  of  the  Isthmus  of  Darien. 
But,  satis  superque,  we  have  had  almost  enough  of  ships 
and  the  sea.  Our  prow  is  directed  towards  our  own  loved 
shores ;  the  southern  gales  waft  us  propitiously  on  them ; 
with  each  swell  of  the  ocean,  our  bosoms  heave  in  unison, 
our  hearts  leap  forwards  with  our  gallant  barque,  over  every 
obstructing  wave : 

"Bend,  bend,  ye  lithe  and  quivering  spars, 
Point  home  my  country's  stripes  and  stars." 

It  is  evening,  and  yon  setting  sun,  whose  course  we  have 
tracked  from  the  lonely  anchorage  in  the  Typa,  down  the 
China  Seas,  across  the  Indian  Ocean,  and  over  the  wide  ex- 
panse of  the  Atlantic,  sinks  slowly  to  night  behind  the  moun- 
tains of  our  own  broad  and  beautiful  land.  They  gild  the  spire 
of  an  ancient  village  church,  beneath  which,  in  the  days  that 


230  .Kathat. 

are  no  more,  our  youthful  ears  drank  in  the  kindly  teachings 
of  the  gray-headed  and  venerable  man,  now  forming  one  of 
the  congregation  that  sleeps  beneath  the  green  sod  sur- 
rounding hV  They  gild,  with  a  golden  tint,  the  attic 
windows  of  an  old  homestead,  behind  the  small  panes 
of  which,  there  came  to  us  once,  more  golden,  but  equally 
unsubstantial,  visions,  when  our  hearts,  untravelled,  sank  to 
slumbers  light  and  sweet.  Ere  its  next  setting,  have  hopes 
that  the  telegraph  wires  will  convey  thither  the  glad  news  of 
our  safe  return. 

We  have  taken  a  pilot  on  board ;  the  chain  cables  are 
ranged  forward  on  either  gangway,  bent  to  the  anchors, 
ready  for  letting  go  ;  the  changing  color  of  the  water  denotes 
soundings,  and  every  thing  indicates  we  shall  soon  be  in. 

Patient  reader,  my  Cruise  is  completed.  Its  preparation 
has  beguiled  me  of  many  a  monotonous  hour  at  sea.  If  either 
at  sea  or  on  shore  it  be,  in  this  manner  beneficial  to  you,  I 
shall  be  satisfied.  We  must  part.  I  bid  you  adieu,  with  a 
feeling  towards  you  as  if  you  had  been  my  compagnon  du  voy- 
age ;  and  fervently  wish  that  your  Cruise  of  Life  may  be 
over  placid  seas,  to  pleasant  ports,  and  always  in  company 
with  kind  and  generous  friends. 


THE    END. 


attntrfe  3Ms  nf  feral,  Biatani  nift  3JingnijiIp[. 

RECENTLY  PUBLISHED   BY 

GEO.  P.  PUTNAM,  10  PARK  PLACE. 


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TAYLOR.    Views  Afoot.     12th  edition.     12mo.,  cloth,  %\  25. 

Eldorado.  Newed.  Col'd  pit's.  2  vols.,  $2  ;  1  vol.  $1  25. 

WARBURTON     The  Crescent  and  the  Cross.     $125. 

SQUIER  Sf  DA  VIES.     TJie  Monuments  of  the  Mississippi 

Valley.    Many  plates.    4to.,  cloth,  $10. 

WILKES.     United  States  Exploring  Expedition.     New  ed. 

Numerous  plates.    5  vols.    8vo.,  cloth,  $15. 

Voyage  round  the  World.     With  plates.     8vo.  $3. 

WILLIS.     Trenton  Falls.     Illustrated.     12mo.,  cloth,  50  cts 
DICKINSON     My  First  Visit  to  Europe.     12mo.,  75  cts. 
WARREN.     Adventures  on  the  Banks  of  the  Amazon.  75  cts 
THACKERAY.     A  Journey  from  Cornhill  to  Cairo.  50  cts. 
HOLGATE.     American  Genealogies.     4to.     $5. 


/ 


YB  28650 


M311948 


